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InvisiblebodhisattaMDiscordReddit
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Re: Unmodified(no holes no poly) 54q Fruiting Chamber(off the shelf monotub) TEK [Re: brindle foxx]
    #26583259 - 04/07/20 04:50 AM (3 years, 9 months ago)

Quote:

brindle foxx said:
What is the recommended method for rehydrating after first flush harvest?



With water.


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InvisiblebodhisattaMDiscordReddit
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Re: Unmodified(no holes no poly) 54q Fruiting Chamber(off the shelf monotub) TEK [Re: PiptheGreAtest] * 1
    #26583262 - 04/07/20 04:52 AM (3 years, 9 months ago)

Quote:

PiptheGreAtest said:
Quote:

shevanel said:
I Pour water on it and down the sides and let it sit for 10-15 then drain. Let some air dry it up a tad then give it a fine mist maybe 3 seconds on a pressure mister or 2 squeezes on a pro if it dried too much then place that flipped lid it on it.



Any exact measurement per “ of substrate level? Do you do full submerge after 2nd flush?



Overthinking it level master achieved


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Re: Unmodified(no holes no poly) 54q Fruiting Chamber(off the shelf monotub) TEK [Re: bodhisatta]
    #26583334 - 04/07/20 06:45 AM (3 years, 9 months ago)

:lolsy:


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Offline0mega3
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Re: BOD's Easy AF UnBODified Monotub TEK (No Holes No Polyfil) [Re: shevanel] * 1
    #26584006 - 04/07/20 01:14 PM (3 years, 9 months ago)

Quote:

shevanel said:
In my recent experience using the unmod tubs is you have to be really careful with moisture since there are no holes and poly at the substrate level.

If your surface is drying too often and your misting to compensate a lot of moisture is going wick into the substrate and over the course of a week you can end up with a waterlogged sub.

This will likely cause short fruits.

With a standard mono there is the ability to somewhat better calibrate the FAE by adjusting the density of the polyfill as opposed to the unmod tub where you're using a flipped, rotated or removed lid so the amount of FAE control during certain stages can be detrimental to the grow depending on the rooms temperature and RH.

Having that regular mono lid on normal you're  separating the tubs envrionment from that of the room a little better than an unmod does. The poly holes are there to regulate the climate and the automation process is more apparent. Its a set-n-forget method most of the time.

Bod even says in this tek that "you have have to know how to dial it in, what to look for, you cant just throw one together and expect it to grow properly"

Essentially that means you have to figure out what you need to do to ensure the room doesn't interfere too much with the climate if the tub. If it does figure out what you need to do to dial it in and have awareness of what the tub is telling you. Once you do a few youll have it dialed in and itll become as autonomous as a traditonal mono.

Theres no doubt in my mind the unmod is a great method but everyone has different conditons and prep methods. What works for John might be bad for Jack to do. Jack has to read the room not mimic the actions of ol John.

Im in an area that has shifts in weather almost daily. My room can be too warm one day while humid and the next day it can be much cooler and dry. This effects the passivity a monotub is supposed to provide and a traditional mono does so much better than an unmod for a situation like that because youre not exposing it to more of an open air environment, which is flunctuating, during the initial fruting stages.

I have to be careful with moisture control because what i do today could be negated or amplified by tomorrows weather. Sometimes its best to leave it alone and let the tub regulate its self. To do that you have to put that lid on whichever way will be best. Its the only dial the tub has so to speak.


I reccomend making sure your field capacity is as tight as possible if not slightly less than FC. Its much easier to add moisture later when it really needs it opposed to having too much micro-managing it. Youre losing less moisture during colonization because there arent any poly holes at the sub level the entire time. The unmod will hold moisture better so having too much is less forgiving than a traditional mono.

Along with that also keep the lid unflipped with the gasket removed until you see knotting then prepare to flip it after initial pinning.

If the surface dries too often prior to knotting mist VERY lightly with a fine mist and unflip the lid back and try to let the sub and tub bring out its own moisture to the surface. Then flip again when you need to. This will prevent you from having to mist too often which isnt  always a good thing so give it a chance to create more of a natural surface evaporation/moisture to induce pinning over the course of a few days not like every 4-6-8 hours when the surface dries.


Of course everything i just said is entirely relative to my own conditions im just giving some food for thought.



Quote:

shevanel said:
In my recent experience using the unmod tubs is you have to be really careful with moisture since there are no holes and poly at the substrate level.

If your surface is drying too often and your misting to compensate a lot of moisture is going wick into the substrate and over the course of a week you can end up with a waterlogged sub.

This will likely cause short fruits.

With a standard mono there is the ability to somewhat better calibrate the FAE by adjusting the density of the polyfill as opposed to the unmod tub where you're using a flipped, rotated or removed lid so the amount of FAE control during certain stages can be detrimental to the grow depending on the rooms temperature and RH.

Having that regular mono lid on normal you're  separating the tubs envrionment from that of the room a little better than an unmod does. The poly holes are there to regulate the climate and the automation process is more apparent. Its a set-n-forget method most of the time.

Bod even says in this tek that "you have have to know how to dial it in, what to look for, you cant just throw one together and expect it to grow properly"

Essentially that means you have to figure out what you need to do to ensure the room doesn't interfere too much with the climate if the tub. If it does figure out what you need to do to dial it in and have awareness of what the tub is telling you. Once you do a few youll have it dialed in and itll become as autonomous as a traditonal mono.

Theres no doubt in my mind the unmod is a great method but everyone has different conditons and prep methods. What works for John might be bad for Jack to do. Jack has to read the room not mimic the actions of ol John.

Im in an area that has shifts in weather almost daily. My room can be too warm one day while humid and the next day it can be much cooler and dry. This effects the passivity a monotub is supposed to provide and a traditional mono does so much better than an unmod for a situation like that because youre not exposing it to more of an open air environment, which is flunctuating, during the initial fruting stages.

I have to be careful with moisture control because what i do today could be negated or amplified by tomorrows weather. Sometimes its best to leave it alone and let the tub regulate its self. To do that you have to put that lid on whichever way will be best. Its the only dial the tub has so to speak.


I reccomend making sure your field capacity is as tight as possible if not slightly less than FC. Its much easier to add moisture later when it really needs it opposed to having too much micro-managing it. Youre losing less moisture during colonization because there arent any poly holes at the sub level the entire time. The unmod will hold moisture better so having too much is less forgiving than a traditional mono.

Along with that also keep the lid unflipped with the gasket removed until you see knotting then prepare to flip it after initial pinning.

If the surface dries too often prior to knotting mist VERY lightly with a fine mist and unflip the lid back and try to let the sub and tub bring out its own moisture to the surface. Then flip again when you need to. This will prevent you from having to mist too often which isnt  always a good thing so give it a chance to create more of a natural surface evaporation/moisture to induce pinning over the course of a few days not like every 4-6-8 hours when the surface dries.


Of course everything i just said is entirely relative to my own conditions im just giving some food for thought.



Quote:

shevanel said:
In my recent experience using the unmod tubs is you have to be really careful with moisture since there are no holes and poly at the substrate level.

If your surface is drying too often and your misting to compensate a lot of moisture is going wick into the substrate and over the course of a week you can end up with a waterlogged sub.

This will likely cause short fruits.

With a standard mono there is the ability to somewhat better calibrate the FAE by adjusting the density of the polyfill as opposed to the unmod tub where you're using a flipped, rotated or removed lid so the amount of FAE control during certain stages can be detrimental to the grow depending on the rooms temperature and RH.

Having that regular mono lid on normal you're  separating the tubs envrionment from that of the room a little better than an unmod does. The poly holes are there to regulate the climate and the automation process is more apparent. Its a set-n-forget method most of the time.

Bod even says in this tek that "you have have to know how to dial it in, what to look for, you cant just throw one together and expect it to grow properly"

Essentially that means you have to figure out what you need to do to ensure the room doesn't interfere too much with the climate if the tub. If it does figure out what you need to do to dial it in and have awareness of what the tub is telling you. Once you do a few youll have it dialed in and itll become as autonomous as a traditonal mono.

Theres no doubt in my mind the unmod is a great method but everyone has different conditons and prep methods. What works for John might be bad for Jack to do. Jack has to read the room not mimic the actions of ol John.

Im in an area that has shifts in weather almost daily. My room can be too warm one day while humid and the next day it can be much cooler and dry. This effects the passivity a monotub is supposed to provide and a traditional mono does so much better than an unmod for a situation like that because youre not exposing it to more of an open air environment, which is flunctuating, during the initial fruting stages.

I have to be careful with moisture control because what i do today could be negated or amplified by tomorrows weather. Sometimes its best to leave it alone and let the tub regulate its self. To do that you have to put that lid on whichever way will be best. Its the only dial the tub has so to speak.


I reccomend making sure your field capacity is as tight as possible if not slightly less than FC. Its much easier to add moisture later when it really needs it opposed to having too much micro-managing it. Youre losing less moisture during colonization because there arent any poly holes at the sub level the entire time. The unmod will hold moisture better so having too much is less forgiving than a traditional mono.

Along with that also keep the lid unflipped with the gasket removed until you see knotting then prepare to flip it after initial pinning.

If the surface dries too often prior to knotting mist VERY lightly with a fine mist and unflip the lid back and try to let the sub and tub bring out its own moisture to the surface. Then flip again when you need to. This will prevent you from having to mist too often which isnt  always a good thing so give it a chance to create more of a natural surface evaporation/moisture to induce pinning over the course of a few days not like every 4-6-8 hours when the surface dries.


Of course everything i just said is entirely relative to my own conditions im just giving some food for thought.



Quote:

shevanel said:
In my recent experience using the unmod tubs is you have to be really careful with moisture since there are no holes and poly at the substrate level.

If your surface is drying too often and your misting to compensate a lot of moisture is going wick into the substrate and over the course of a week you can end up with a waterlogged sub.

This will likely cause short fruits.

With a standard mono there is the ability to somewhat better calibrate the FAE by adjusting the density of the polyfill as opposed to the unmod tub where you're using a flipped, rotated or removed lid so the amount of FAE control during certain stages can be detrimental to the grow depending on the rooms temperature and RH.

Having that regular mono lid on normal you're  separating the tubs envrionment from that of the room a little better than an unmod does. The poly holes are there to regulate the climate and the automation process is more apparent. Its a set-n-forget method most of the time.

Bod even says in this tek that "you have have to know how to dial it in, what to look for, you cant just throw one together and expect it to grow properly"

Essentially that means you have to figure out what you need to do to ensure the room doesn't interfere too much with the climate if the tub. If it does figure out what you need to do to dial it in and have awareness of what the tub is telling you. Once you do a few youll have it dialed in and itll become as autonomous as a traditonal mono.

Theres no doubt in my mind the unmod is a great method but everyone has different conditons and prep methods. What works for John might be bad for Jack to do. Jack has to read the room not mimic the actions of ol John.

Im in an area that has shifts in weather almost daily. My room can be too warm one day while humid and the next day it can be much cooler and dry. This effects the passivity a monotub is supposed to provide and a traditional mono does so much better than an unmod for a situation like that because youre not exposing it to more of an open air environment, which is flunctuating, during the initial fruting stages.

I have to be careful with moisture control because what i do today could be negated or amplified by tomorrows weather. Sometimes its best to leave it alone and let the tub regulate its self. To do that you have to put that lid on whichever way will be best. Its the only dial the tub has so to speak.


I reccomend making sure your field capacity is as tight as possible if not slightly less than FC. Its much easier to add moisture later when it really needs it opposed to having too much micro-managing it. Youre losing less moisture during colonization because there arent any poly holes at the sub level the entire time. The unmod will hold moisture better so having too much is less forgiving than a traditional mono.

Along with that also keep the lid unflipped with the gasket removed until you see knotting then prepare to flip it after initial pinning.

If the surface dries too often prior to knotting mist VERY lightly with a fine mist and unflip the lid back and try to let the sub and tub bring out its own moisture to the surface. Then flip again when you need to. This will prevent you from having to mist too often which isnt  always a good thing so give it a chance to create more of a natural surface evaporation/moisture to induce pinning over the course of a few days not like every 4-6-8 hours when the surface dries.


Of course everything i just said is entirely relative to my own conditions im just giving some food for thought.



Quote:

shevanel said:
In my recent experience using the unmod tubs is you have to be really careful with moisture since there are no holes and poly at the substrate level.

If your surface is drying too often and your misting to compensate a lot of moisture is going wick into the substrate and over the course of a week you can end up with a waterlogged sub.

This will likely cause short fruits.

With a standard mono there is the ability to somewhat better calibrate the FAE by adjusting the density of the polyfill as opposed to the unmod tub where you're using a flipped, rotated or removed lid so the amount of FAE control during certain stages can be detrimental to the grow depending on the rooms temperature and RH.

Having that regular mono lid on normal you're  separating the tubs envrionment from that of the room a little better than an unmod does. The poly holes are there to regulate the climate and the automation process is more apparent. Its a set-n-forget method most of the time.

Bod even says in this tek that "you have have to know how to dial it in, what to look for, you cant just throw one together and expect it to grow properly"

Essentially that means you have to figure out what you need to do to ensure the room doesn't interfere too much with the climate if the tub. If it does figure out what you need to do to dial it in and have awareness of what the tub is telling you. Once you do a few youll have it dialed in and itll become as autonomous as a traditonal mono.

Theres no doubt in my mind the unmod is a great method but everyone has different conditons and prep methods. What works for John might be bad for Jack to do. Jack has to read the room not mimic the actions of ol John.

Im in an area that has shifts in weather almost daily. My room can be too warm one day while humid and the next day it can be much cooler and dry. This effects the passivity a monotub is supposed to provide and a traditional mono does so much better than an unmod for a situation like that because youre not exposing it to more of an open air environment, which is flunctuating, during the initial fruting stages.

I have to be careful with moisture control because what i do today could be negated or amplified by tomorrows weather. Sometimes its best to leave it alone and let the tub regulate its self. To do that you have to put that lid on whichever way will be best. Its the only dial the tub has so to speak.


I reccomend making sure your field capacity is as tight as possible if not slightly less than FC. Its much easier to add moisture later when it really needs it opposed to having too much micro-managing it. Youre losing less moisture during colonization because there arent any poly holes at the sub level the entire time. The unmod will hold moisture better so having too much is less forgiving than a traditional mono.

Along with that also keep the lid unflipped with the gasket removed until you see knotting then prepare to flip it after initial pinning.

If the surface dries too often prior to knotting mist VERY lightly with a fine mist and unflip the lid back and try to let the sub and tub bring out its own moisture to the surface. Then flip again when you need to. This will prevent you from having to mist too often which isnt  always a good thing so give it a chance to create more of a natural surface evaporation/moisture to induce pinning over the course of a few days not like every 4-6-8 hours when the surface dries.


Of course, everything I just said is entirely relative to my own conditions I'm just giving some food for thought.




This right here my friends is the best elaboration of the differing "teks" I have come across. 1,000 "back and forth" threads distilled for your reading pleasure in around 1000 words. Couldn't have said it better myself. Thank you shevanel.


--------------------
Stay safe and watch the fungi grow.[gradient:#C9C7D4,#][/gradient]


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InvisiblecoAsTal
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Re: BOD's Easy AF UnBODified Monotub TEK (No Holes No Polyfil) [Re: 0mega3]
    #26584015 - 04/07/20 01:18 PM (3 years, 9 months ago)

Welcome to the Shroomery Omega3 -- you should remove the 4 extra quotes you have in that post-- :hug:


--------------------
I am certain of nothing but the holiness of the Heart's affections and the truth of Imagination--  John Keats

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InvisibleJessicaRabbit88
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Re: BOD's Easy AF UnBODified Monotub TEK (No Holes No Polyfil) [Re: bodhisatta]
    #26586600 - 04/08/20 02:52 PM (3 years, 9 months ago)

Finally spawned a few Bod Monotubs :grin:!

Spawned 4.2

Before misting:



After misting:



And look! This shroom popped out of nowhere.




Good or bad?

Should I clone him?


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Offlineshevanel
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Re: BOD's Easy AF UnBODified Monotub TEK (No Holes No Polyfil) [Re: JessicaRabbit88]
    #26586665 - 04/08/20 03:22 PM (3 years, 9 months ago)

Hes too young to tell but he's already wearing the low fae skinny jeans


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InvisibleJessicaRabbit88
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Re: BOD's Easy AF UnBODified Monotub TEK (No Holes No Polyfil) [Re: shevanel]
    #26586726 - 04/08/20 04:03 PM (3 years, 9 months ago)

Because of the small cap?

The lid flipped upside down...



The closet doors are open 4 inches on each side to allow slight air flow from the box fan sitting on the floor (on lowest setting to avoid drying out).



Tubs are stacked but staggered:



I will be adding shelves this weekend and 2 spot lights with 6500k bulbs.

What do you guys recommend I can do to improve my growing conditions? I'm lightly misting 2 times a day.


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InvisibleJessicaRabbit88
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Re: BOD's Easy AF UnBODified Monotub TEK (No Holes No Polyfil) [Re: shevanel]
    #26586843 - 04/08/20 04:57 PM (3 years, 9 months ago)

Quote:

shevanel said:
In my recent experience using the unmod tubs is you have to be really careful with moisture since there are no holes and poly at the substrate level.

If your surface is drying too often and your misting to compensate a lot of moisture is going wick into the substrate and over the course of a week you can end up with a waterlogged sub.

This will likely cause short fruits.

With a standard mono there is the ability to somewhat better calibrate the FAE by adjusting the density of the polyfill as opposed to the unmod tub where you're using a flipped, rotated or removed lid so the amount of FAE control during certain stages can be detrimental to the grow depending on the rooms temperature and RH.

Having that regular mono lid on normal you're  separating the tubs envrionment from that of the room a little better than an unmod does. The poly holes are there to regulate the climate and the automation process is more apparent. Its a set-n-forget method most of the time.

Bod even says in this tek that "you have have to know how to dial it in, what to look for, you cant just throw one together and expect it to grow properly"

Essentially that means you have to figure out what you need to do to ensure the room doesn't interfere too much with the climate if the tub. If it does figure out what you need to do to dial it in and have awareness of what the tub is telling you. Once you do a few youll have it dialed in and itll become as autonomous as a traditonal mono.

Theres no doubt in my mind the unmod is a great method but everyone has different conditons and prep methods. What works for John might be bad for Jack to do. Jack has to read the room not mimic the actions of ol John.

Im in an area that has shifts in weather almost daily. My room can be too warm one day while humid and the next day it can be much cooler and dry. This effects the passivity a monotub is supposed to provide and a traditional mono does so much better than an unmod for a situation like that because youre not exposing it to more of an open air environment, which is flunctuating, during the initial fruting stages.

I have to be careful with moisture control because what i do today could be negated or amplified by tomorrows weather. Sometimes its best to leave it alone and let the tub regulate its self. To do that you have to put that lid on whichever way will be best. Its the only dial the tub has so to speak.


I reccomend making sure your field capacity is as tight as possible if not slightly less than FC. Its much easier to add moisture later when it really needs it opposed to having too much micro-managing it. Youre losing less moisture during colonization because there arent any poly holes at the sub level the entire time. The unmod will hold moisture better so having too much is less forgiving than a traditional mono.

Along with that also keep the lid unflipped with the gasket removed until you see knotting then prepare to flip it after initial pinning.

If the surface dries too often prior to knotting mist VERY lightly with a fine mist and unflip the lid back and try to let the sub and tub bring out its own moisture to the surface. Then flip again when you need to. This will prevent you from having to mist too often which isnt  always a good thing so give it a chance to create more of a natural surface evaporation/moisture to induce pinning over the course of a few days not like every 4-6-8 hours when the surface dries.


Of course everything i just said is entirely relative to my own conditions im just giving some food for thought.




Very helpful insight. I shall be watching my tubs very closely [no where else to go right now anyway]. I live in a very dry climate so I'm going to place a small humidifier near the far end of the closet door (which is opened 4 inches).


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OfflineGoombala
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Re: BOD's Easy AF UnBODified Monotub TEK (No Holes No Polyfil) [Re: JessicaRabbit88] * 1
    #26586968 - 04/08/20 06:07 PM (3 years, 9 months ago)

Updating on my tubs w what I’ve learned so far maybe it could help some people out:
First tub spawned 3/26, 6 quart jars to 650g of coir(bucket tek)

This is the first tub ive ever spawned and i left the surface a little too uneven. I also could have used more coir because the substrate isnt as thick as I would want it to be. Not retaining moisture well, I’m 95% sure I misted too much due to matting, but the surface has bruised which means it’s been too dry? I think my sprayer was really harsh on it too i recently picked up a fine mister and after a misting my tub looks like the pictures ive seen. Also could of hydrated coir more.

Tub 2 spawned on 3/30 7 quarts to 800 grams coir

This tub I layed out much flatter and feel like I nailed the moisture and substrate depth. Unfortunately I think i had a bad spawn jar because when I first flipped the lid it smelt like apples. Probably a bacterial contam, and now it is kind of getting poofy like Ive seen in photos of bacteria contaminated tubs. Hoping i get lucky because the smell is gone now crossing my fingers that it works out. I learned I should examine my jars and not put any sketchy jars to bulk. Also the number one thing I have realized I need is to be more patient. This is my first attempt at growing mushrooms ever, and these teks, and the long threads that follow are informational goldmines. This site rocks


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OfflineQueso
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Re: BOD's Easy AF UnBODified Monotub TEK (No Holes No Polyfil) [Re: Goombala]
    #26588327 - 04/09/20 08:48 AM (3 years, 9 months ago)

Can I ask how much water you used to hydrate your coir for the 650 and 800 bricks? I had problems at the beginning with too much water in my coir causing bacterial issues.


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Offlineartgarden1
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Re: BOD's Easy AF UnBODified Monotub TEK (No Holes No Polyfil) [Re: bodhisatta]
    #26588678 - 04/09/20 11:45 AM (3 years, 9 months ago)

Do you have a recommended method for inoculating your oat grain after sterilization if using a spore syringe? Didn't find that step on your page so far. Thanks.


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OfflineGoombala
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Re: BOD's Easy AF UnBODified Monotub TEK (No Holes No Polyfil) [Re: Queso]
    #26588685 - 04/09/20 11:50 AM (3 years, 9 months ago)

I kind of just eyeballed about 3.25 quarts for 650g. For the 800g tub i used 4 quarts and a little extra to combat whatever boiled off. I think a big part of my first tub not having proper moisture was the imbalanced spawn:coir ratio. I flipped the lid back right side up and the bruised myc went away over night. Gonna leave it like that til i see pins.
.


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OfflineA.k.aM
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Re: BOD's Easy AF UnBODified Monotub TEK (No Holes No Polyfil) [Re: artgarden1]
    #26588741 - 04/09/20 12:20 PM (3 years, 9 months ago)

Quote:

artgarden1 said:
Do you have a recommended method for inoculating your oat grain after sterilization if using a spore syringe? Didn't find that step on your page so far. Thanks.




Most people won’t do syringe to grain because syringes usually have bacteria.

There’s a good chance it’ll work, when I was doing it I just stuck the needle through my tyvek filter into the gas exchange hole in the lid, then covered it with Micropore tape after.


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OfflineSparky101
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Re: BOD's Easy AF UnBODified Monotub TEK (No Holes No Polyfil) [Re: Queso] * 1
    #26588805 - 04/09/20 12:47 PM (3 years, 9 months ago)

Quote:

Queso said:
Can I ask how much water you used to hydrate your coir for the 650 and 800 bricks? I had problems at the beginning with too much water in my coir causing bacterial issues.




5x the weight of a coir brick in grams. This will give you the amount of water in ‘mL’ you’ll need.
Example: 650g brick multiplied by 5 is 3,250. So that’s 3,250 mL of water or 3.25L. No more no less.

I’ve had bricks weigh 570g and some weigh 690g, this method gives me field capacity coir every time.


--------------------
Never ask someone to do something that you wouldn’t do yourself.



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OfflineElusively
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Registered: 04/25/17
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Re: BOD's Easy AF UnBODified Monotub TEK (No Holes No Polyfil) [Re: Sparky101]
    #26593813 - 04/11/20 04:23 PM (3 years, 9 months ago)

Day 6 after spawning 3qt oak to 1 brick coir, did everything exactly per the tek except the kind of tub I bought. 



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OfflineA.k.aM
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Re: BOD's Easy AF UnBODified Monotub TEK (No Holes No Polyfil) [Re: Elusively]
    #26594006 - 04/11/20 06:27 PM (3 years, 9 months ago)

Lookin good.

Man maybe it’s the weather but everybody’s getting real fast colonization lately.

Knots at six days is the shit.


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Offlineshevanel
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Re: BOD's Easy AF UnBODified Monotub TEK (No Holes No Polyfil) [Re: A.k.a]
    #26594039 - 04/11/20 06:46 PM (3 years, 9 months ago)

Ive been getting full colo at 7-8 knots at 12. 6 is lightspeed!


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OfflineElusively
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Re: BOD's Easy AF UnBODified Monotub TEK (No Holes No Polyfil) [Re: shevanel]
    #26594205 - 04/11/20 08:24 PM (3 years, 9 months ago)

Quote:

A.k.a said:
Lookin good.

Man maybe it’s the weather but everybody’s getting real fast colonization lately.

Knots at six days is the shit.



Quote:

shevanel said:
Ive been getting full colo at 7-8 knots at 12. 6 is lightspeed!




Yea thanks guys, it’s been real warm here lately and that room is the warmest at my friends house.


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OfflineWidge
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Re: BOD's Easy AF UnBODified Monotub TEK (No Holes No Polyfil) [Re: Elusively]
    #26594487 - 04/11/20 10:27 PM (3 years, 9 months ago)

Howdy all.

It’s day 12 of the maiden BOD EAF monotub and pinning is already underway.

Would appreciate feedback on what I’m seeing here as it’s not quite right..eg, the fat blob in the middle pic :confused: :grin:

It’s a 60L/60q tub, 650g coir, 2.5kg/5.5lb of oat spawn.
Added a light casing layer about 1/4 inch deep as RH is super low where I am.
Misting has been very light, just a few times in the past week.

Thinking maybe it’s too high RH, too low FAE - But keen for an expert’s eye!

Thanks in advance.

Widge



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