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Invisible1000yellowflowers
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Registered: 08/15/15
Posts: 13
Loc: PNW
Blue Growth + Second Dunking Question
    #22288075 - 09/25/15 11:51 AM (8 years, 4 months ago)

Doing my first PF Tek over here and I've come to a crossroads. 3/8 cakes are fruiting relative nicely and I'm about to harvest those but I just noticed some blue growth at their base of the stems. I know this topic has been covered in previous threads but all of the pictures had expired so I have no visual reference. Could I please get some advice about whether this is contaminated or not?

So you know, I've been doing a simple tek with shotgun terrarium, misting 4 times a day, fanning 8 times. Light on, cover off 12 hours > Light off, cover on 12 hours.

Also, as you can see in the pictures below, 5 of my cakes have shown zero growth in the past 1.5 weeks since birthing. I'm planning on re-dunking the fruiting cakes and am considering on just re-dunking the no-growth ones as well. Is this advisable? Thanks Shroomery.

p.s. These mushrooms aren't going to win any beauty contests..





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OfflineEntheoGod
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Re: Blue Growth + Second Dunking Question [Re: 1000yellowflowers]
    #22288510 - 09/25/15 01:49 PM (8 years, 4 months ago)

To me that blue growth looks like nothing but bruising due to the weight of the mushrooms. I have had shrooms turn blue at the bottom time and time again. I notice it mainly on the larger ones though.

This could be a sign of lack of moisture which can be solved by many different things such as fanning less, spraying less frequent or just less each time. I am sure you will get a TC that will comment and solve this for you but I would not worry about it. Sometimes your cakes can bruise blue just because you are misting them too directly and the water hitting the cake as it exits your spray bottle could be causing the blueing.

Definitely re dunk the cakes that are not growing as well but maybe to be safe dunk them in a separate container so that you dont risk contams infecting your for sure healthy ones. The cakes that arent pinning or anything yet could be stalled due to a contam so dont risk that.

So to sum it up: Dont worry about the blue on your shrooms it wont hurt you to eat them.


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Offlinejcop
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Re: Blue Growth + Second Dunking Question [Re: EntheoGod]
    #22288592 - 09/25/15 02:11 PM (8 years, 4 months ago)

To me it also looks like regular bluing which is normal and harmless. What did you mean with "cover off for 12 hours"? Your chamber is open half of the time? I wouldn't recomment that!


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Offlinejcop
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Re: Blue Growth + Second Dunking Question [Re: jcop]
    #22288605 - 09/25/15 02:13 PM (8 years, 4 months ago)

Oh, and you should harvest when the veil breaks, your mushrooms are ready man :thumbup:


--------------------
Afraid of illness? German new medicine might be for you

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OfflineDarkhome
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Re: Blue Growth + Second Dunking Question [Re: jcop]
    #22288799 - 09/25/15 03:01 PM (8 years, 4 months ago)

If you are leaving the lid off your SGFC for 12 hours...the bluing could be from drying out...Mist until they glisten or shine with moisture, then fan, in time you will be able to tell what they need, but if you have a properly built SGFC, I wouldn't leave the lid off.:shrug:Anyway nice job! You got fruit...and that is an accomplishment!
Good vibes and :goodluck:


--------------------
“The shaman is not merely a sick man, or a madman; he is a sick man who has healed himself.”
~Terence McKenna~


"NOTHING"...I post or say is "TRUE"...Any pictures are taken from the Web and any conversation is just research for a fictional character. That being said; He is constantly seeking knowledge and evolving.


Edited by Darkhome (09/25/15 03:03 PM)


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Invisible1000yellowflowers
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Re: Blue Growth + Second Dunking Question [Re: Darkhome]
    #22288822 - 09/25/15 03:06 PM (8 years, 4 months ago)

Thanks for the responses. I know its not good to leave the lid off but I did it for a number of reasons. I didn't have enough $$$ to buy a bunch of new materials for my tek so I ended up with what I had on hand, including a rubbermaid tub with a dark lid (not see-through). Also, I couldn't afford to buy a new light that would allow me to light the box from the sides so my options dwindled to either giving them light (and too much air) or giving them darkness (and the right amount of air. I went on with the former. Might switch it up for the second dunk.


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Offlinejcop
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Re: Blue Growth + Second Dunking Question [Re: 1000yellowflowers]
    #22288853 - 09/25/15 03:14 PM (8 years, 4 months ago)

If that tub is in usually lit room, you don't really need lights, definitely no in expense of humidity. This also explains the bluing. Definitely keep the lid on all the time (except misting but thats obvious:lol:)

If you are too worried about light, maybe cut a hole in the lid and cover with saran wrap, but it's unnecessary IMO.


--------------------
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OfflineEntheoGod
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Re: Blue Growth + Second Dunking Question [Re: jcop]
    #22289347 - 09/25/15 05:07 PM (8 years, 4 months ago)

Light is unneeded but some people prefer a cycle. I read somewhere on here that mushrooms have a cycle if they have 12 hours light 12 hours darkness. Like they have a circadian rhythm like us humans and other animals or something.

Dont quote me on that but I def seen that on here somewhere. I would look it up if you are really worried about it. I know for sure they dont need the light but I believe it does assist in processes such as the mushroom basically knowing which way is up ya know.

In no circumstance should you leave your lid off entirely. That is just asking for everything to stop working for you.

If I were you I would just be sure to drill the right amount of holes in it and since you are tight on cash right now I wouldnt worry about if its clear or not really just worry about the FAE and Humidity inside the chamber. That blueing seems to be the result of drying since you are leaving the lid off for so long. Change it up a bit my friend.

Good luck!  I hope things get going better for ya!:mushroom2:


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OfflinePussyFart
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Re: Blue Growth + Second Dunking Question [Re: EntheoGod]
    #22289432 - 09/25/15 05:27 PM (8 years, 4 months ago)

Quote:

EntheoGod said:
Light is unneeded but some people prefer a cycle.



It is unneeded for sub par mushrooms....

For the best/healthiest harvest, use direct/intense 6500K lighting on a 12/12.

Quote:

EntheoGod said:
I know for sure they dont need the light but I believe it does assist in processes such as the mushroom basically knowing which way is up ya know.



No, you are wrong yet again....gravity tells them which way is up.....mushrooms grown in complete darkness will grow straight up....

Quote:

EntheoGod said:
I wouldnt worry about if its clear or not really just worry about the FAE and Humidity inside the chamber.:



Just the FAE....the exact humidity levels mean nothing....as long as there is constant evaporation happeneing, the RH will be just fine...

The RH that is important is the few mm's above the substrate, not the RH of the chamber

Please study some up to date info before spreading nonsense BS around the forums.


Edited by PussyFart (09/25/15 05:28 PM)


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Invisible1000yellowflowers
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Registered: 08/15/15
Posts: 13
Loc: PNW
Re: Blue Growth + Second Dunking Question [Re: PussyFart]
    #22289455 - 09/25/15 05:34 PM (8 years, 4 months ago)

So, pussyfart, how do you suggest I rectify my situation (i.e. non-clear top, overhead lighting)?


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OfflineEntheoGod
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Re: Blue Growth + Second Dunking Question [Re: PussyFart]
    #22289464 - 09/25/15 05:37 PM (8 years, 4 months ago)

Excuse me, I believe I even posted that I am not for sure and to wait for a TC... I believe I also said I read that somewhere on here and not to trust it...Clearly warned that I did not know for sure.

Why feel the need to be an asshole? If I am wrong just tell me and them, do you have to ridicule the person thats wrong. This is why some of the TC's on here piss me off so bad. People ask for help and then get some halfass pissy answer that seems more insulting than helpful.

I dont appreciate being ridiculed like that sir. I was wrong about the lighting. I know this and honestly appreciate you telling me but if you respond like that to people no one will listen to you and I would think you want someone to actually listen or else you would not give advice. 

I hope you, PussyFart, have a wonderful day/night and you really think about the attitude you respond to people with.

P.S. I wish I could tell which information was up to date or successful on here because all I get when I search isnt a list of most trusted answers but a list of answers that could be good info and answers that can be bullshit. I would love to get on here and look immediately at the best answer but that isnt how it works so I spend time looking through the crap threads in order to find a tiny bit of information from someone who sounds like they know what they are talking about and then try that. So please again, excuse me if I did not know about the lighting actually having that much an affect and excuse me if I didn't know the entire chamber's humidity isnt so important as the humidity right at the level of the substrate.


Edited by EntheoGod (09/25/15 05:42 PM)


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Offlinejcop
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Re: Blue Growth + Second Dunking Question [Re: PussyFart]
    #22289467 - 09/25/15 05:38 PM (8 years, 4 months ago)

Quote:

PussyFart said:

It is unneeded for sub par mushrooms....





Can you recommend some reading where the importance of light is explained in detail please?


--------------------
Afraid of illness? German new medicine might be for you

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OfflineEntheoGod
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Re: Blue Growth + Second Dunking Question [Re: jcop] * 1
    #22289485 - 09/25/15 05:44 PM (8 years, 4 months ago)

RR's Notes
You can find any info on lighting here in roger rabbits notes like I just did. Use ctrl+F and type lighting.


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OfflinePussyFart
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Re: Blue Growth + Second Dunking Question [Re: jcop]
    #22289540 - 09/25/15 06:06 PM (8 years, 4 months ago)

Quote:

jcop said:
Quote:

PussyFart said:

It is unneeded for sub par mushrooms....





Can you recommend some reading where the importance of light is explained in detail please?



Lighting Requirements of Mushrooms

Some mushrooms, such as the Agaricus species commonly found in grocery stores require no light at all. However, those commonly grown by hobbyists, such as Pleurotus ostreatus (Oyster Mushrooms), Lentinus enodes (Shiitake), Psilocybe cubensis, a hallucinogenic mushroom, and Hericium erinaceus (Lion's Mane) all require light to produce abundant, normal sized fruits. Experience has taught us that the light best suited for primordia formation and the development of fruitbodies is bright light with a color temperature of 5,000 Kelvin to 7,000 Kelvin. Fortunately, this type of light is easily obtainable at your local home improvement center in the form of fluorescent fixtures. For a small terrarium as described in this chapter, a single CFL (compact fluorescent) that screws into a standard light bulb socket will work very well. These can often be found in grocery and drug stores in every neighborhood. 15 watt CFLs will do the job well, but the package will probably have a large 60 stamped on it, indicating they produce light "equivalent" to a 60 watt incandescent light bulb. They're referring to lumens of output, not the frequency. Incandescent light bulbs are the worst possible choice for growing mushrooms, since they emit a 'red' light in the 3,000 Kelvin color temperature range.

The higher the color temperature, expressed in Kelvin, the closer to the 'blue' end of the spectrum the emitted light is. The lower the color temperature the 'redder' the light is. If you have a choice of fluorescent lamps, purchase those labeled 'daylight' since these have a somewhat higher color temperature than cool white. Daylight, sometimes called 'natural daylight' fluorescent tubes generally emit light in the 6,500 Kelvin range, while cool white fluorescent emits light at around 5,000 Kelvin.
If you have several terrariums stacked or otherwise near each other, you can use larger 2 to 4 tube fluorescent fixtures. These come in 48" and 96" lengths. Place the fluorescent lamps as close as you can get them to your terrariums without causing excessive heating. Species such as Shiitake and Oyster mushrooms prefer to fruit at temperatures in the upper 50's to mid 60's Fahrenheit (15C to 20C), while Psilocybe cubensis prefers to fruit at a temperature in the mid 70s to about 80 Fahrenheit (23C to 27C)
Most mushroom species don't mind a slightly warmer temperature during daytime than at night, so if your grow room is a bit colder than the temperature ranges given above, a little warming from your lights during the daytime won't hurt at all, provided you don't let the air in your terrarium get too dry. For cakes, try to keep the humidity above 95%.
Cased substrates are a bit more forgiving, but still try to keep your humidity above 90%. 12 hours on, 12 hours off has proved to be a great combination over a wide range of species. Of course, if you have a bright window near your terrarium, that will suffice, but direct sunlight for more than a few minutes per day should be avoided.
Disregard outdated advice in old books which is constantly repeated on the internet to colonize mushroom substrates in total darkness. Experience and rigorous peer reviewed studies have proved that exposure to low level ambient indoor lighting during spawn run and substrate colonizing will speed up the process, leading to full colonization up to a few days earlier than the same substrate would if colonized in darkness. In addition, mushroom mycelium develops a day/night circadian rhythm, so exposure to light from day of inoculation sets this process in motion, leading to earlier fruiting and harvest.

http://www.mushroomvideos.com/Terrarium-Tek


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