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moonlightmushrooms
farmur

Registered: 05/10/14
Posts: 214
Loc: canada
Last seen: 5 years, 10 months
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Many Tiny Fruits (Blue Oyster)
#22220365 - 09/11/15 06:32 AM (8 years, 4 months ago) |
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Hey guys, so after some growing pains our new space is back up to production levels (~5 lb/day). Our newest bags inoculated with some awesome rye spawn are pinning early (~10 days) and vigorously. Unfortunately they're producing hundreds of tiny fruits with each "bloom" weighing only a few ounces.

I'd say our BE is about equal (2 lbs on 10 lbs wet) but our harvesting time is longer and the sale quality is reduced with these tiny fruits. What to do?
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Jim Morrison
Lizard King



Registered: 03/20/15
Posts: 1,479
Loc:
Last seen: 3 years, 4 days
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More FAE. Most oyster problems can be solved by one or more of the following things. If the stems are long and skinny, more FAE. If the caps are small, more light. If they look dry, and are browning at the edges, more humidity. And sometimes, if they are curling upward, lower the temperatures.
-------------------- Jim Morrison's Trade List Live Long and Myceliate! The only power any government has is the power to crack down on criminals. Well, when there aren't enough criminals, one makes them. One declares so many things to be a crime that it becomes impossible for men to live without breaking laws. Ayn Rand
Edited by Jim Morrison (09/11/15 08:07 AM)
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moonlightmushrooms
farmur

Registered: 05/10/14
Posts: 214
Loc: canada
Last seen: 5 years, 10 months
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Re: Many Tiny Fruits (Blue Oyster) [Re: Jim Morrison]
#22220872 - 09/11/15 09:03 AM (8 years, 4 months ago) |
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I have older bags right beside putting out massive caps and almost no stem, maybe more FAE in the primordia room?
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Jim Morrison
Lizard King



Registered: 03/20/15
Posts: 1,479
Loc:
Last seen: 3 years, 4 days
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Quote:
moonlightmushrooms said: I have older bags right beside putting out massive caps and almost no stem, maybe more FAE in the primordia room?
The only other thing I can think of is if you've added more bags to the room, and there's an increase in CO2. Perhaps the other bags had already formed nice fruits, but the newer bags could be struggling with the increase in CO2.
-------------------- Jim Morrison's Trade List Live Long and Myceliate! The only power any government has is the power to crack down on criminals. Well, when there aren't enough criminals, one makes them. One declares so many things to be a crime that it becomes impossible for men to live without breaking laws. Ayn Rand
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solarity
mm... my favourite food



Registered: 03/31/09
Posts: 1,590
Loc: UK
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Re: Many Tiny Fruits (Blue Oyster) [Re: Jim Morrison]
#22221408 - 09/11/15 11:17 AM (8 years, 4 months ago) |
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More FAE. The more you have growing the more air exchange you need.
-------------------- Commercial exotics farmer for 8 years - now sold up!
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lipa

Registered: 07/24/07
Posts: 2,684
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A few tricks for you.
1. When the bags become fully colonized throw them in a room with very little exchange and complete darkness for a week extra before placing bags in fruiting room (ideally right before they are fully colonized). No light. Or just do this from the very start. This will result in a powerful first flush. Co2 levels up to 10,000-11,000ppm
2. Air always on. No timers. Calculate your exchange rate according to the fill and size of your room or monitor Co2 to levels below 600ppm.
3. That picture looks like your light levels might be too low. I could be wrong. The cap color looks a little dull for blues and that tells me that the light might be low or the room is a little too hot. One or the other. The elongation of the stems with smaller caps could mean the light is lacking
4. Keep you humidity stable. Don't let it fluctuate too much. Choose something between 85-95%. Sometimes if the first mushrooms appear in the cluster grow out and the humidity lowered shortly after the larger caps in the cluster will mature and the smaller ones will shut down because they are more susceptible to aborting.
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moonlightmushrooms
farmur

Registered: 05/10/14
Posts: 214
Loc: canada
Last seen: 5 years, 10 months
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Re: Many Tiny Fruits (Blue Oyster) [Re: lipa]
#22226149 - 09/12/15 08:37 AM (8 years, 4 months ago) |
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Thanks for all the suggestions! Seems we need a bigger air exchanger.
Quote:
lipa said: 1. When the bags become fully colonized throw them in a room with very little exchange and complete darkness for a week extra before placing bags in fruiting room (ideally right before they are fully colonized). No light. Or just do this from the very start. This will result in a powerful first flush. Co2 levels up to 10,000-11,000ppm
Will this slow development significantly? 21 days instead of 14 for a first flush?
Quote:
lipa said: 2. Air always on. No timers. Calculate your exchange rate according to the fill and size of your room or monitor Co2 to levels below 600ppm.
We have an HRV (heat recovery ventilator) running continuously with about 4 full air exchanges per hour
Quote:
lipa said: 3. That picture looks like your light levels might be too low. I could be wrong. The cap color looks a little dull for blues and that tells me that the light might be low or the room is a little too hot. One or the other. The elongation of the stems with smaller caps could mean the light is lacking
Currently have 8 Fluo bulbs with 2600 lumen each (20800 lumen total) running 12/12 in a 10'x 10' room. Room's running in the low 70s right now.
Quote:
lipa said: 4. Keep you humidity stable. Don't let it fluctuate too much. Choose something between 85-95%. Sometimes if the first mushrooms appear in the cluster grow out and the humidity lowered shortly after the larger caps in the cluster will mature and the smaller ones will shut down because they are more susceptible to aborting.
With the continuous AE we're having a hard time keeping the humidity above 90%, fluctuates between 87 and 91 depending on the time of day. Might be time to bite the bullet and get a hydrofogger
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lipa

Registered: 07/24/07
Posts: 2,684
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Quote:
moonlightmushrooms said: Thanks for all the suggestions! Seems we need a bigger air exchanger.
Quote:
lipa said: 1. When the bags become fully colonized throw them in a room with very little exchange and complete darkness for a week extra before placing bags in fruiting room (ideally right before they are fully colonized). No light. Or just do this from the very start. This will result in a powerful first flush. Co2 levels up to 10,000-11,000ppm
Will this slow development significantly? 21 days instead of 14 for a first flush? It won't slow the development but yes it will extend the time to start fruiting. Worth it!
Quote:
lipa said: 2. Air always on. No timers. Calculate your exchange rate according to the fill and size of your room or monitor Co2 to levels below 600ppm.
We have an HRV (heat recovery ventilator) running continuously with about 4 full air exchanges per hour That's not enough try 3 times the amount.
Quote:
lipa said: 3. That picture looks like your light levels might be too low. I could be wrong. The cap color looks a little dull for blues and that tells me that the light might be low or the room is a little too hot. One or the other. The elongation of the stems with smaller caps could mean the light is lacking
Currently have 8 Fluo bulbs with 2600 lumen each (20800 lumen total) running 12/12 in a 10'x 10' room. Room's running in the low 70s right now. That should be fine.
Quote:
lipa said:
4. Keep your humidity stable. Don't let it fluctuate too much. Choose something between 85-95%. Sometimes if the first mushrooms appear in the cluster grow out and the humidity lowered shortly after the larger caps in the cluster will mature and the smaller ones will shut down because they are more susceptible to aborting.
With the continuous AE we're having a hard time keeping the humidity above 90%, fluctuates between 87 and 91 depending on the time of day. Might be time to bite the bullet and get a hydrofogger  The ultrasonic humidifiers will work better if you get a nice beefy one. I have not heard great things about the impeller type foggers. You have to have a very high ceiling like a high tunnel for them to work well. Ideally you should use a evaporative cooler to pre condition the air and add humidity then run the fogger line up to the fresh air intake to control the humidity. FYI humidity sensors work best at certain air flow rates. Contact the company of the sensor you use to get information on the best placement and air velocity for the one you use. Later on when you have some money to upgrade you can get a water chiller and cycle the water from the evaporative cooler and fogger reservoir to chill the room even more.
Edited by lipa (09/12/15 12:17 PM)
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drake89
Mushroom Magnate



Registered: 06/26/11
Posts: 4,168
Loc: TN
Last seen: 4 years, 10 months
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Re: Many Tiny Fruits (Blue Oyster) [Re: lipa]
#22228036 - 09/12/15 05:11 PM (8 years, 4 months ago) |
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i have a humidifan and 12 head pond fogger for sale. $1000 for the fan, $100 for the fogger.
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