|
Some of these posts are very old and might contain outdated information. You may wish to search for newer posts instead.
|
Cosmic Neuron
Neuron


Registered: 08/26/15
Posts: 50
Loc: The Cosmic Brain
Last seen: 8 years, 3 months
|
Light
#22196641 - 09/06/15 10:48 AM (8 years, 4 months ago) |
|
|
Greetings, mycologists, cultivators and others.
I heard that introducing light to colonised cakes would help them grow better and I was hoping that some of you could share your knowledge concerning how much light is too much and how much is too little. Also, does light help cakes that haven't been colonised yet?
All input is appreciate.
|
PussyFart
Retired Cultivation Extrodinaire



Registered: 04/08/12
Posts: 22,502
Loc: Orbiting Earth
Last seen: 17 days, 21 hours
|
|
Quote:
Cosmic Neuron said: Greetings, mycologists, cultivators and others.
I heard that introducing light to colonised cakes would help them grow better and I was hoping that some of you could share your knowledge concerning how much light is too much and how much is too little. Also, does light help cakes that haven't been colonised yet?
All input is appreciate.
Jars/bags/tubs/trays should colonize @ room temperature getting ambient/indirect light.
Main pinning triggers are full colonization, FAE and Evaporation off of the substrate.
Light is a secondary pinning trigger. For tropical species temperature is not a pinning factor.
P. Cubensis are a tropical species. You could colonize at 70F and fruit at 80F with great results.
Light has been proven beneficial during all stages of mycellium growth. Mushrooms like mammals have a circadian rhythm.
You want ambient/indirect light(on a 12/12 schedule preferably) for colonization and consolidation.
You want direct/intense 6500K light on a 12/12 schedule for fruiting.
Optimal temps are mid 70s throughout the whole grow, but anywhere from 65F-80F is acceptable.
Incubation is outdated/uneeded unless temps in the range stated above cannot be kept.
The inside of the jar is always a few degrees warmer than the outside because the mycellium produces heat..mycellium tends to stall at temps above 83F , and contams thrive.
Fruiting at cooler temps tends to produce denser, meatier fruits, while fruiting at higher temps will often produce hollow, less dense stems.
Mycelium should be exposed to ambient room light from day of inoculation as has been known for many years. Light is not a pinning trigger until after full colonization and an increase in air is given, and even then it's a secondary pinning trigger. RR
--------------------
THIS HOBBY IS NOT FOR THE IMPATIENT! PLEASE BE PATIENT, DON'T BE A PATIENT! A Tale of 10 Isolates, GT Cluster Clone Monotubs, RR's Let's Grow Mushrooms DVD, SGFC(Shotgun Fruiting Chamber), Monotub Tek, Damion5050's Coir Tek, TL's Tek List, Frank's Tek List, EvilMushroom666's Pasteurization Tek, How It Should & Shouldn't Look - NEW CULTIVATORS GUIDE *** *** AFGHAN KUSH GROW LOG *** ***
|
PussyFart
Retired Cultivation Extrodinaire



Registered: 04/08/12
Posts: 22,502
Loc: Orbiting Earth
Last seen: 17 days, 21 hours
|
|
Lighting Requirements of Mushrooms
Some mushrooms, such as the Agaricus species commonly found in grocery stores require no light at all. However, those commonly grown by hobbyists, such as Pleurotus ostreatus (Oyster Mushrooms), Lentinus enodes (Shiitake), Psilocybe cubensis, a hallucinogenic mushroom, and Hericium erinaceus (Lion's Mane) all require light to produce abundant, normal sized fruits. Experience has taught us that the light best suited for primordia formation and the development of fruitbodies is bright light with a color temperature of 5,000 Kelvin to 7,000 Kelvin. Fortunately, this type of light is easily obtainable at your local home improvement center in the form of fluorescent fixtures. For a small terrarium as described in this chapter, a single CFL (compact fluorescent) that screws into a standard light bulb socket will work very well. These can often be found in grocery and drug stores in every neighborhood. 15 watt CFLs will do the job well, but the package will probably have a large 60 stamped on it, indicating they produce light "equivalent" to a 60 watt incandescent light bulb. They're referring to lumens of output, not the frequency. Incandescent light bulbs are the worst possible choice for growing mushrooms, since they emit a 'red' light in the 3,000 Kelvin color temperature range.
The higher the color temperature, expressed in Kelvin, the closer to the 'blue' end of the spectrum the emitted light is. The lower the color temperature the 'redder' the light is. If you have a choice of fluorescent lamps, purchase those labeled 'daylight' since these have a somewhat higher color temperature than cool white. Daylight, sometimes called 'natural daylight' fluorescent tubes generally emit light in the 6,500 Kelvin range, while cool white fluorescent emits light at around 5,000 Kelvin. If you have several terrariums stacked or otherwise near each other, you can use larger 2 to 4 tube fluorescent fixtures. These come in 48" and 96" lengths. Place the fluorescent lamps as close as you can get them to your terrariums without causing excessive heating. Species such as Shiitake and Oyster mushrooms prefer to fruit at temperatures in the upper 50's to mid 60's Fahrenheit (15C to 20C), while Psilocybe cubensis prefers to fruit at a temperature in the mid 70s to about 80 Fahrenheit (23C to 27C) Most mushroom species don't mind a slightly warmer temperature during daytime than at night, so if your grow room is a bit colder than the temperature ranges given above, a little warming from your lights during the daytime won't hurt at all, provided you don't let the air in your terrarium get too dry. For cakes, try to keep the humidity above 95%. Cased substrates are a bit more forgiving, but still try to keep your humidity above 90%. 12 hours on, 12 hours off has proved to be a great combination over a wide range of species. Of course, if you have a bright window near your terrarium, that will suffice, but direct sunlight for more than a few minutes per day should be avoided. Disregard outdated advice in old books which is constantly repeated on the internet to colonize mushroom substrates in total darkness. Experience and rigorous peer reviewed studies have proved that exposure to low level ambient indoor lighting during spawn run and substrate colonizing will speed up the process, leading to full colonization up to a few days earlier than the same substrate would if colonized in darkness. In addition, mushroom mycelium develops a day/night circadian rhythm, so exposure to light from day of inoculation sets this process in motion, leading to earlier fruiting and harvest.
Source: http://www.mushroomvideos.com/Terrarium-Tek
--------------------
THIS HOBBY IS NOT FOR THE IMPATIENT! PLEASE BE PATIENT, DON'T BE A PATIENT! A Tale of 10 Isolates, GT Cluster Clone Monotubs, RR's Let's Grow Mushrooms DVD, SGFC(Shotgun Fruiting Chamber), Monotub Tek, Damion5050's Coir Tek, TL's Tek List, Frank's Tek List, EvilMushroom666's Pasteurization Tek, How It Should & Shouldn't Look - NEW CULTIVATORS GUIDE *** *** AFGHAN KUSH GROW LOG *** ***
|
|
|
You cannot start new topics / You cannot reply to topics HTML is disabled / BBCode is enabled
Moderator: Shroomism, george castanza, RogerRabbit, veggie, mushboy, fahtster, LogicaL Chaos, 13shrooms, Stipe-n Cap, Pastywhyte, bodhisatta, Tormato, Land Trout, A.k.a 328 topic views. 29 members, 227 guests and 44 web crawlers are browsing this forum.
[ Show Images Only | Sort by Score | Print Topic ] |
|