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OfflineThriftyNickel
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Here's a great fruiting tray:
    #22158916 - 08/28/15 11:47 PM (8 years, 5 months ago)




Hey, I found a storage container at Walmart that seems great for growing in a tent, etc, and I just wanted to share. It's the Ziploc "Weather Shield" box, 6.6 gallon (about 7x16x20), in black. I can't find a link to this specific one anywhere, and they seem pretty scarce at my local stores, so I'm not sure if they're brand new, discontinued or what. Has anyone tried using these? I think the depth is perfect for bulk substrate and casing layers, and the top clamps on pretty snug with a foam seal under the lip. I drilled a dozen 3/32" holes in the top for gas exchange while it sits in the dark. It should keep pests and contaminates out pretty well until time to expose to light and induce fruiting. I dispersed 7 quart jars nearly full of wild bird seed into two of these bins along with 4-5" of straw, and it seems like a good amount. Also, 7 quart jars packed full with casing is enough for about an inch layer in each bin.


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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: ThriftyNickel]
    #22158965 - 08/29/15 12:19 AM (8 years, 5 months ago)

You gonna atleast remedy the black lid tho?


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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: ThriftyNickel]
    #22158993 - 08/29/15 12:32 AM (8 years, 5 months ago)

Quote:

ThrifyNickel said:



Hey, I found a storage container at Walmart that seems great for growing in a tent, etc, and I just wanted to share. It's the Ziploc "Weather Shield" box, 6.6 gallon (about 7x16x20), in black. I can't find a link to this specific one anywhere, and they seem pretty scarce at my local stores, so I'm not sure if they're brand new, discontinued or what. Has anyone tried using these? I think the depth is perfect for bulk substrate and casing layers, and the top clamps on pretty snug with a foam seal under the lip. I drilled a dozen 3/32" holes in the top for gas exchange while it sits in the dark. It should keep pests and contaminates out pretty well until time to expose to light and induce fruiting. I dispersed 7 quart jars nearly full of wild bird seed into two of these bins along with 4-5" of straw, and it seems like a good amount. Also, 7 quart jars packed full with casing is enough for about an inch layer in each bin.



they sell these but clear at my walmart ! :super:


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OfflineThriftyNickel
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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: mrbart4444]
    #22159049 - 08/29/15 12:47 AM (8 years, 5 months ago)

I'm not sure where you're coming from. The black lid is ideal for keep things in the dark during colonization, then it comes off when ready to fruit.


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OfflinePussyFart
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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: ThriftyNickel] * 1
    #22159065 - 08/29/15 12:52 AM (8 years, 5 months ago)

Quote:

ThrifyNickel said:
I'm not sure where you're coming from. The black lid is ideal for keep things in the dark during colonization, then it comes off when ready to fruit.




Wrong...........

Jars/bags/tubs/trays should colonize @ room temperature getting ambient/indirect light.

Main pinning triggers are full colonization, FAE and Evaporation off of the substrate.

Light is a secondary pinning trigger. For tropical species temperature is not a pinning factor.

P. Cubensis are a tropical species. You could colonize at 70F and fruit at 80F with great results.

Light has been proven beneficial during all stages of mycellium growth. Mushrooms like mammals have a circadian rhythm.

You want ambient/indirect light(on a 12/12 schedule preferably) for colonization and consolidation.

You want direct/intense 6500K light on a 12/12 schedule for fruiting.

Optimal temps are mid 70s throughout the whole grow, but anywhere from 65F-80F is acceptable.

Incubation is outdated/uneeded unless temps in the range stated above cannot be kept.

The inside of the jar is always a few degrees warmer than the outside because the mycellium produces heat..mycellium tends to stall at temps above 83F , and contams thrive.

Fruiting at cooler temps tends to produce denser, meatier fruits, while fruiting at higher temps will often produce hollow, less dense stems.


Mycelium should be exposed to ambient room light from day of inoculation as has been known for many years.  Light is not a pinning trigger until after full colonization and an increase in air is given, and even then it's a secondary pinning trigger.
RR




Lighting Requirements of Mushrooms

Some mushrooms, such as the Agaricus species commonly found in grocery stores require no light at all. However, those commonly grown by hobbyists, such as Pleurotus ostreatus (Oyster Mushrooms), Lentinus enodes (Shiitake), Psilocybe cubensis, a hallucinogenic mushroom, and Hericium erinaceus (Lion's Mane) all require light to produce abundant, normal sized fruits. Experience has taught us that the light best suited for primordia formation and the development of fruitbodies is bright light with a color temperature of 5,000 Kelvin to 7,000 Kelvin. Fortunately, this type of light is easily obtainable at your local home improvement center in the form of fluorescent fixtures. For a small terrarium as described in this chapter, a single CFL (compact fluorescent) that screws into a standard light bulb socket will work very well. These can often be found in grocery and drug stores in every neighborhood. 15 watt CFLs will do the job well, but the package will probably have a large 60 stamped on it, indicating they produce light "equivalent" to a 60 watt incandescent light bulb. They're referring to lumens of output, not the frequency. Incandescent light bulbs are the worst possible choice for growing mushrooms, since they emit a 'red' light in the 3,000 Kelvin color temperature range.

The higher the color temperature, expressed in Kelvin, the closer to the 'blue' end of the spectrum the emitted light is. The lower the color temperature the 'redder' the light is. If you have a choice of fluorescent lamps, purchase those labeled 'daylight' since these have a somewhat higher color temperature than cool white. Daylight, sometimes called 'natural daylight' fluorescent tubes generally emit light in the 6,500 Kelvin range, while cool white fluorescent emits light at around 5,000 Kelvin.
If you have several terrariums stacked or otherwise near each other, you can use larger 2 to 4 tube fluorescent fixtures. These come in 48" and 96" lengths. Place the fluorescent lamps as close as you can get them to your terrariums without causing excessive heating. Species such as Shiitake and Oyster mushrooms prefer to fruit at temperatures in the upper 50's to mid 60's Fahrenheit (15C to 20C), while Psilocybe cubensis prefers to fruit at a temperature in the mid 70s to about 80 Fahrenheit (23C to 27C)
Most mushroom species don't mind a slightly warmer temperature during daytime than at night, so if your grow room is a bit colder than the temperature ranges given above, a little warming from your lights during the daytime won't hurt at all, provided you don't let the air in your terrarium get too dry. For cakes, try to keep the humidity above 95%.
Cased substrates are a bit more forgiving, but still try to keep your humidity above 90%. 12 hours on, 12 hours off has proved to be a great combination over a wide range of species. Of course, if you have a bright window near your terrarium, that will suffice, but direct sunlight for more than a few minutes per day should be avoided.
Disregard outdated advice in old books which is constantly repeated on the internet to colonize mushroom substrates in total darkness. Experience and rigorous peer reviewed studies have proved that exposure to low level ambient indoor lighting during spawn run and substrate colonizing will speed up the process, leading to full colonization up to a few days earlier than the same substrate would if colonized in darkness. In addition, mushroom mycelium develops a day/night circadian rhythm, so exposure to light from day of inoculation sets this process in motion, leading to earlier fruiting and harvest.

Source: http://www.mushroomvideos.com/Terrarium-Tek


Edited by PussyFart (08/29/15 12:54 AM)


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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: PussyFart]
    #22159112 - 08/29/15 01:21 AM (8 years, 5 months ago)

:whathesaid:


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OfflineThriftyNickel
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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: PussyFart]
    #22159284 - 08/29/15 04:29 AM (8 years, 5 months ago)

I have to strongly disagree with you. I've spawned cubensis in the dark and in the light, and both have had identical results. In fact, this batch has seen no light at all after initial inoculation of the grain jars aside from an incandescent light from time to time to check on things, etc. My two bins of straw have also become fully colonized in complete darkness. RR's full set of videos are good, but are also just a brief how-to on some different areas of general mushroom cultivation and isn't very thorough on growing cubensis. In fact, the chapter on casing shows him putting a sheet of tin foil poked with a few breather-holes over his tray after spreading the casing layer, which functions exactly the same as a black lid. This seems to contradict the quote from him that you posted, which is bizarre. But more importantly, Paul Stamets, in The Mushroom Cultivator, gives very specific growth parameters for cubensis. He recommends "incubation in total darkness", and for primordia formation "diffuse natural light or expose 12-16 hrs/day of grow-lux type flourescent light high on blue spectra," and for cropping do the same. I'm not aware of a better or more trustworthy source of advice on growing mushrooms than Stamets. I've made the mistake of gathering my information from forums like these where everyone has a different opinion and argues back and forth about things they've heard, and it's hard to tell what's true and what's false. I regret not reading Stamets' book first and cutting to the chase. I'd rather not get in a big debate over who's right here. I will post some pics later on if this continues successfully. Each time I do a batch I do things a little different, and I often encounter a new problem to solve, and sometimes things don't always work out and I learn something new. However, I'm not worried about the light issue at all. Everything is colonizing in darkness. How could it get any better than that?


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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: ThriftyNickel]
    #22159287 - 08/29/15 04:39 AM (8 years, 5 months ago)

Was it from MS?


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OfflineThriftyNickel
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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: mushmagic]
    #22159291 - 08/29/15 04:45 AM (8 years, 5 months ago)

What's MS?


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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: PussyFart]
    #22159294 - 08/29/15 04:48 AM (8 years, 5 months ago)

Disregard outdated advice in old books which is constantly repeated on the internet to colonize mushroom substrates in total darkness. Experience and rigorous peer reviewed studies have proved that exposure to low level ambient indoor lighting during spawn run and substrate colonizing will speed up the process, leading to full colonization up to a few days earlier than the same substrate would if colonized in darkness. In addition, mushroom mycelium develops a day/night circadian rhythm, so exposure to light from day of inoculation sets this process in motion, leading to earlier fruiting and harvest.

Source: http://www.mushroomvideos.com/Terrarium-Tek




MS means multi-spore


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OfflineThriftyNickel
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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: DeTwizzle]
    #22159300 - 08/29/15 05:01 AM (8 years, 5 months ago)

Yes and no, I started with a spore syringe, couldn't get it to germinate on agar for some reason, so I inoculated some jars of bird seed. When those colonized, I placed one rhizomorphic sample of grain onto a petri dish, let it grow out, took a sample from one sector of the mycellium, grew it out again on another dish, then took a sample of that strain, put it in a sterilized blender, and inoculated the 7 jars that went into these two bins.


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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: ThriftyNickel]
    #22159312 - 08/29/15 05:25 AM (8 years, 5 months ago)

Well if it wasnt from a monoculture then the results really dont mean much as there are so many different strains present within the syringe that are all different genetics and perform differently.

If you want to test something like that and actually have concrete evidence/results then you will need to use a monoculture (isolated down to a single strain) to test it out:thumbup:


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OfflineThriftyNickel
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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: ThriftyNickel]
    #22159321 - 08/29/15 05:45 AM (8 years, 5 months ago)

Where's the source of your information? Can you please provide documentation of this, perhaps a side by side comparison? I would be excited to check it out. My substrate was colonized when I checked on it two weeks after spawning with grain, and room temperature was constant at 80 degrees. Should it be faster? Does it really matter if it s a few days quicker? Yes, my book is older. Has Stamets changed his opinion on the subject in a more current edition?

I was under the impression that I achieved a monoculture by doing as I did, by transferring one sliver of mycellium several times until it grew uniformly. Perhaps it takes more transfers than that? I'm still learning. But this seems irrelevant at this point because it colonized well like I hoped.

What I'm hearing is thàt I'm wrong, that i'm not supposed to incubate in darkness, yet my restults show that it works. I don't yet understand what's wrong here.


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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: ThriftyNickel]
    #22159327 - 08/29/15 05:55 AM (8 years, 5 months ago)

Light is beneficial during all stages you just want indirect for colonization and direct for fruiting. Just like us mushrooms develop a circadian rhythm.

My bad I must have missed that you did isolate, I thought you said it was straight from spore..

So when you were finished isolating was there still any sectoring?


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OfflineThriftyNickel
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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: mushmagic]
    #22159356 - 08/29/15 06:27 AM (8 years, 5 months ago)

I didn't think there was any sectoring, but I lack experience and could be wrong. All I had to go on was RR's short video on isolation. Perhaps I should spawn this next batch of substrate tomorrow with plastic wrap over one of the bins and report back here in a few weeks. I'm going to attach a picture of the jar that I feel is ready. My phone makes it look less white and more contrasty than reality. But by using the blender technique, and resulting liquid inoculation with the supposed monoculture, mycellium appeared uniformly over the grain at once while entirely in the dark. I believe it's been two weeks. The previous batch that I mentioned as colonizing the straw and was recently cased was in ambient light while grain spawning, and took about the same amount of time if not longer, but I also didn't blend up the mycellium as fine, so it grew in more patchy. Neither batches have the extreme rhizomorphic activity like I remember when first starting out and shooting spores into BRF jars.



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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: ThriftyNickel]
    #22160111 - 08/29/15 10:43 AM (8 years, 5 months ago)

Quote:

ThrifyNickel said:
Paul Stamets, in The Mushroom Cultivator, gives very specific growth parameters for cubensis. He recommends "incubation in total darkness", and for primordia formation "diffuse natural light or expose 12-16 hrs/day of grow-lux type flourescent light high on blue spectra," and for cropping do the same. I'm not aware of a better or more trustworthy source of advice on growing mushrooms than Stamets.



That book is 30 years old......read some of his new material.....or RRs, like I linked to.....

Quote:

ThrifyNickel said:
mycellium appeared uniformly over the grain



This does not matter.....you cannot tell if its a monoculture in a jar, only a dish with a 2d surface....


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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: ThriftyNickel]
    #22160154 - 08/29/15 10:52 AM (8 years, 5 months ago)

Quote:

ThrifyNickel said:
I have to strongly disagree with you. I've spawned cubensis in the dark and in the light, and both have had identical results.




then why are you making an effort to colonize them in the dark? :shrug:


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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: PussyFart]
    #22160216 - 08/29/15 11:07 AM (8 years, 5 months ago)

Quote:

PussyFart said:
Quote:

ThrifyNickel said:
Paul Stamets, in The Mushroom Cultivator, gives very specific growth parameters for cubensis. He recommends "incubation in total darkness", and for primordia formation "diffuse natural light or expose 12-16 hrs/day of grow-lux type flourescent light high on blue spectra," and for cropping do the same. I'm not aware of a better or more trustworthy source of advice on growing mushrooms than Stamets.



That book is 30 years old......read some of his new material.....or RRs, like I linked to.....

Quote:

ThrifyNickel said:
mycellium appeared uniformly over the grain



This does not matter.....you cannot tell if its a monoculture in a jar, only a dish with a 2d surface....




:whathesaid:

OP, TMC is a great resource but the info in the book needs to be taken well salted, especially everything about growing cubes, because the book is 30 years old and there has been much advancement in the field since the book was published.

Light really has no negative effect during the incubation period of your culture, which is why grain jars and agar plates aren't stored in the dark. Incubating mycelium isn't subjected to total darkness in the wild, ya know?

For what it's worth, I like to keep environmental  conditions as stable as possible for the whole life cycle of the culture. If anything, rapid fluctuations in temps or light will only serve to confuse it.


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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: NumeroEno]
    #22160244 - 08/29/15 11:14 AM (8 years, 5 months ago)

U guys keep saying incubation when u mean colonization....nobody should need to incubate anything....unless temps are way below room temp...


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Invisiblemrbart4444
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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: PussyFart]
    #22160265 - 08/29/15 11:18 AM (8 years, 5 months ago)

bs my house stays at 73-75 and colozation is slow af if i dont incubate at 78-81


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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: mrbart4444]
    #22160271 - 08/29/15 11:19 AM (8 years, 5 months ago)

Slower, but not needed...lol.


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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: PussyFart]
    #22160283 - 08/29/15 11:22 AM (8 years, 5 months ago)

slow and steady always wins the race IME. its easy to rush into failure.


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Invisiblemrbart4444
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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: PussyFart]
    #22160286 - 08/29/15 11:22 AM (8 years, 5 months ago)

chart i use for reference 


winter time i have no choice but to incubate though for sure my house stays 65-70 and takes like 5 weeks for what wouldve been 2 1/2


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Edited by mrbart4444 (08/29/15 11:23 AM)


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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: PussyFart]
    #22160293 - 08/29/15 11:23 AM (8 years, 5 months ago)

Quote:

PussyFart said:
U guys keep saying incubation when u mean colonization....nobody should need to incubate anything....unless temps are way below room temp...




I always used the terms interchangeably. I'm of the mind that incubation can be done without applying heat, but I could be wrong. Either way it's just semantics to me :shrug:


--------------------

:gd_icon:  Let it grow! Let it grow! Greatly yield!  :gd_icon:
What shall we say, shall we call it by a name
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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: NumeroEno]
    #22160307 - 08/29/15 11:26 AM (8 years, 5 months ago)

Quote:

mrbart4444 said:
chart i use for reference 


winter time i have no choice but to incubate though for sure my house stays 65-70 and takes like 5 weeks for what wouldve been 2 1/2



Anything above 80F promotes too much contam growth for me.....and for most on this forum....plus it slows the mycellium down...

If the outside of the jars are 86F, then the inside is 90+ easily....no ty....

Quote:

NumeroEno said:
Quote:

PussyFart said:
U guys keep saying incubation when u mean colonization....nobody should need to incubate anything....unless temps are way below room temp...




I always used the terms interchangeably. I'm of the mind that incubation can be done without applying heat, but I could be wrong. Either way it's just semantics to me :shrug:



Incubation means applying heat...that is all.....colonization means something completely different....They cannot be used interchangeably....it's english, not semantics....


Edited by PussyFart (08/29/15 11:26 AM)


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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: PussyFart]
    #22160334 - 08/29/15 11:31 AM (8 years, 5 months ago)

that chart must be based off what stamets put in his book. no one sees fast cubensis mycelium growth at 86F thats crazy.


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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: PussyFart]
    #22160358 - 08/29/15 11:36 AM (8 years, 5 months ago)

Not to be pedantic or anything, but Merriam Webster says:

Quote:

b :to maintain (as an embryo or a chemically active system) under conditions favorable for hatching, development, or reaction




I see no mention of heat, and I have no intention of arguing the point further at risk of going off-topic, but I am not wrong.


--------------------

:gd_icon:  Let it grow! Let it grow! Greatly yield!  :gd_icon:
What shall we say, shall we call it by a name
As well to count the angels dancing on a pin
Water bright as the sky from which it came
And the name is on the earth that takes it in

DOG FOOD AGAR

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Edited by NumeroEno (08/29/15 11:38 AM)


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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: NumeroEno]
    #22160378 - 08/29/15 11:40 AM (8 years, 5 months ago)

But it's not the action of development, it's just the maintenance of keeping it under certain conditions for development......

The actual development is called colonization.

I am not wrong.

The only thing incubation means(in this context) is applying heat to the culture.....it has no other meaning....we cannot do anything else to it except apply or remove heat....


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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: PussyFart]
    #22160457 - 08/29/15 11:58 AM (8 years, 5 months ago)

I don't think either of us are wrong. I just think it is a term with a very broad definition. You could easily "incubate" your jars just by keeping them in a slightly warmer room, but OTOH I do agree that leaving them on the shelf to do their own thing isn't incubating them per se.

It's definitely one of the more subjective aspects of cultivation, as well as a term where a lot of different things could reasonably be considered incubating. In the end though, for all intents and purposes pertaining to our hobby, it means keeping your culture at a warmer temp to favor faster colonization, and I think we can both agree on that :cool:


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Invisibletahoe
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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: NumeroEno]
    #22161161 - 08/29/15 03:06 PM (8 years, 5 months ago)

I use the rubbermaid dishwashing tubs. They cost about two bucks, they are dark, and clean easily. Cat litter boxes work well also.


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Stop experimenting half way through your first grow. Grow it to maturity, watch it, learn from it. Do this a few times then experiment with different ideas and figure out what works best for you.


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OfflineThriftyNickel
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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: tahoe]
    #22162161 - 08/29/15 07:28 PM (8 years, 4 months ago)



I spawned these trays with grain this morning, and put plastic wrap with holes on one, so it will be experiment. I'll let ya'll know in a few weeks. I haven't been making an effort to grow in the dark, Its that I have NOT been making an effort to grow in the light. It seems as though mycellium grows under the surface of things where there is no light, so it makes sense to me. If anyone as any good references to past experiments or published material on this can you please send a link?


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OfflineThriftyNickel
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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: PussyFart]
    #22162226 - 08/29/15 07:45 PM (8 years, 4 months ago)

Quote:

ThrifyNickel said:
mycellium appeared uniformly over the grain



This does not matter.....you cannot tell if its a monoculture in a jar, only a dish with a 2d surface....





I described the uniformity so you guys can get a visual and possibly point out if anything sounds unusual. I've been a little concerned lately that the mycellium doesn't look very rhizomorphic sometimes. It never occurred to me until after reading from Stamets that it should be a sign of good health and vigor. I don't know if it matters or not. I was really more concerned with trying to make a point that the mycellium grew just fine without light, in my opinion, and tried to leave it open for someone to call me out on it.


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InvisibleMad Season
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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: ThriftyNickel]
    #22162268 - 08/29/15 07:57 PM (8 years, 4 months ago)

Quote:

RogerRabbit said:
Quote:

Diesel_Dawg said:
I've never done a back to back of light vs dark.. But I have done direct vs indirect, and the direct light significantly slowed growth.




This is correct.  You want low level light during colonization. 

I've repeated this experiment a few thousand times now.  The colonizing bags in our mushroom farm near the north facing window grow at least 1/3 faster than those in the areas where it's darker.  Also, substrates colonizing near the isle where light penetrates colonize faster.

With most species you can inoculate agar and then stack two dishes on top of each other.  The top one will nearly always colonize faster than the bottom one.

What you don't want is very bright light during colonization which not only slows down growth but also could lead to premature fruiting.
RR



I searched light during colonization and clicked the 2nd link :shrug:

Also agar is the best way of actually figuring it out. Jars won't tell you enough.
http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/18430998


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Edited by Mad Season (08/29/15 08:00 PM)


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OfflineMachiavelliavore
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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: ThriftyNickel]
    #22163223 - 08/30/15 01:18 AM (8 years, 4 months ago)

Haha, I've been thinking about fruiting an almost identical setup (including the straw) in a greenhouse as well.

The container I found was a 40qt hefty measuring 16"x23"x6"  The contain has smooth edges, grey lid w clear container, and costs $10 at target.

How much did that container cost?  If it's about the same, I think the hefty would be better.  Love the idea of the space efficieny and ease of lining and straw packing with these megatrays.

I've been fruiting with 4500K light, and even without any light with decent success.  Great pinsets, some meh dry yields.  Might be the heat.


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I spawned some popcorn casings and had double-overlay cause I didn't put enough hydrogen peroxide in my automated aquarium mister.  I only got one mushroom so I cut off the head part where the seeds fall from and put it in a jar of LC and sprayed it all over a tin of PF cakes I made with gravel, cardboard, and bisquick in my microwave.  I think it will be good cause B+ is so potent.
Triggered yet?

Only a square would say "a cube is a cube."


No, this does not look right...


Edited by Machiavelliavore (08/30/15 01:20 AM)


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OfflineThriftyNickel
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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: Machiavelliavore]
    #22239521 - 09/15/15 01:45 AM (8 years, 4 months ago)

I checked my grow room tonight and here are the results: I lost two bins to trich after they were cased (my first time casing, not sure where I went wrong). On Sept 4th, I inoculated 7 jars of WBS with spawn from one strain (I believe) in a Petri dish. 4 of those were left inside a black garbage bag on a rack and 3 were set beside and exposed to 12 hrs 6000k light a day. I'm not sure if they colonized at different rates, but both control groups are 100 percent colonized now. The dark lid straw bin appears nearly fully colonized, and the bin with the plastic wrap lid (with air holes) isn't yet colonized. The room air temperature was set at 80, but usually fluctuates 79-82. The bin that received light was 12" off the floor, and the dark one was 24" off the floor. I'm surprised to see the lack of growth in this one, perhaps it's a sign of something wrong. I don't see how light would negatively affect things. However, this seems to prove that light isn't necessary for normal mycelium growth.

http://

http://

http://


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OfflineThriftyNickel
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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: Mad Season]
    #22239560 - 09/15/15 02:23 AM (8 years, 4 months ago)

Thanks for the link mad season


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