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OfflineThriftyNickel
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Here's a great fruiting tray:
    #22158916 - 08/28/15 11:47 PM (8 years, 5 months ago)




Hey, I found a storage container at Walmart that seems great for growing in a tent, etc, and I just wanted to share. It's the Ziploc "Weather Shield" box, 6.6 gallon (about 7x16x20), in black. I can't find a link to this specific one anywhere, and they seem pretty scarce at my local stores, so I'm not sure if they're brand new, discontinued or what. Has anyone tried using these? I think the depth is perfect for bulk substrate and casing layers, and the top clamps on pretty snug with a foam seal under the lip. I drilled a dozen 3/32" holes in the top for gas exchange while it sits in the dark. It should keep pests and contaminates out pretty well until time to expose to light and induce fruiting. I dispersed 7 quart jars nearly full of wild bird seed into two of these bins along with 4-5" of straw, and it seems like a good amount. Also, 7 quart jars packed full with casing is enough for about an inch layer in each bin.


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Invisiblemushmagic
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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: ThriftyNickel]
    #22158965 - 08/29/15 12:19 AM (8 years, 5 months ago)

You gonna atleast remedy the black lid tho?


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Invisiblemrbart4444
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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: ThriftyNickel]
    #22158993 - 08/29/15 12:32 AM (8 years, 5 months ago)

Quote:

ThrifyNickel said:



Hey, I found a storage container at Walmart that seems great for growing in a tent, etc, and I just wanted to share. It's the Ziploc "Weather Shield" box, 6.6 gallon (about 7x16x20), in black. I can't find a link to this specific one anywhere, and they seem pretty scarce at my local stores, so I'm not sure if they're brand new, discontinued or what. Has anyone tried using these? I think the depth is perfect for bulk substrate and casing layers, and the top clamps on pretty snug with a foam seal under the lip. I drilled a dozen 3/32" holes in the top for gas exchange while it sits in the dark. It should keep pests and contaminates out pretty well until time to expose to light and induce fruiting. I dispersed 7 quart jars nearly full of wild bird seed into two of these bins along with 4-5" of straw, and it seems like a good amount. Also, 7 quart jars packed full with casing is enough for about an inch layer in each bin.



they sell these but clear at my walmart ! :super:


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OfflineThriftyNickel
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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: mrbart4444]
    #22159049 - 08/29/15 12:47 AM (8 years, 5 months ago)

I'm not sure where you're coming from. The black lid is ideal for keep things in the dark during colonization, then it comes off when ready to fruit.


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OfflinePussyFart
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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: ThriftyNickel] * 1
    #22159065 - 08/29/15 12:52 AM (8 years, 5 months ago)

Quote:

ThrifyNickel said:
I'm not sure where you're coming from. The black lid is ideal for keep things in the dark during colonization, then it comes off when ready to fruit.




Wrong...........

Jars/bags/tubs/trays should colonize @ room temperature getting ambient/indirect light.

Main pinning triggers are full colonization, FAE and Evaporation off of the substrate.

Light is a secondary pinning trigger. For tropical species temperature is not a pinning factor.

P. Cubensis are a tropical species. You could colonize at 70F and fruit at 80F with great results.

Light has been proven beneficial during all stages of mycellium growth. Mushrooms like mammals have a circadian rhythm.

You want ambient/indirect light(on a 12/12 schedule preferably) for colonization and consolidation.

You want direct/intense 6500K light on a 12/12 schedule for fruiting.

Optimal temps are mid 70s throughout the whole grow, but anywhere from 65F-80F is acceptable.

Incubation is outdated/uneeded unless temps in the range stated above cannot be kept.

The inside of the jar is always a few degrees warmer than the outside because the mycellium produces heat..mycellium tends to stall at temps above 83F , and contams thrive.

Fruiting at cooler temps tends to produce denser, meatier fruits, while fruiting at higher temps will often produce hollow, less dense stems.


Mycelium should be exposed to ambient room light from day of inoculation as has been known for many years.  Light is not a pinning trigger until after full colonization and an increase in air is given, and even then it's a secondary pinning trigger.
RR




Lighting Requirements of Mushrooms

Some mushrooms, such as the Agaricus species commonly found in grocery stores require no light at all. However, those commonly grown by hobbyists, such as Pleurotus ostreatus (Oyster Mushrooms), Lentinus enodes (Shiitake), Psilocybe cubensis, a hallucinogenic mushroom, and Hericium erinaceus (Lion's Mane) all require light to produce abundant, normal sized fruits. Experience has taught us that the light best suited for primordia formation and the development of fruitbodies is bright light with a color temperature of 5,000 Kelvin to 7,000 Kelvin. Fortunately, this type of light is easily obtainable at your local home improvement center in the form of fluorescent fixtures. For a small terrarium as described in this chapter, a single CFL (compact fluorescent) that screws into a standard light bulb socket will work very well. These can often be found in grocery and drug stores in every neighborhood. 15 watt CFLs will do the job well, but the package will probably have a large 60 stamped on it, indicating they produce light "equivalent" to a 60 watt incandescent light bulb. They're referring to lumens of output, not the frequency. Incandescent light bulbs are the worst possible choice for growing mushrooms, since they emit a 'red' light in the 3,000 Kelvin color temperature range.

The higher the color temperature, expressed in Kelvin, the closer to the 'blue' end of the spectrum the emitted light is. The lower the color temperature the 'redder' the light is. If you have a choice of fluorescent lamps, purchase those labeled 'daylight' since these have a somewhat higher color temperature than cool white. Daylight, sometimes called 'natural daylight' fluorescent tubes generally emit light in the 6,500 Kelvin range, while cool white fluorescent emits light at around 5,000 Kelvin.
If you have several terrariums stacked or otherwise near each other, you can use larger 2 to 4 tube fluorescent fixtures. These come in 48" and 96" lengths. Place the fluorescent lamps as close as you can get them to your terrariums without causing excessive heating. Species such as Shiitake and Oyster mushrooms prefer to fruit at temperatures in the upper 50's to mid 60's Fahrenheit (15C to 20C), while Psilocybe cubensis prefers to fruit at a temperature in the mid 70s to about 80 Fahrenheit (23C to 27C)
Most mushroom species don't mind a slightly warmer temperature during daytime than at night, so if your grow room is a bit colder than the temperature ranges given above, a little warming from your lights during the daytime won't hurt at all, provided you don't let the air in your terrarium get too dry. For cakes, try to keep the humidity above 95%.
Cased substrates are a bit more forgiving, but still try to keep your humidity above 90%. 12 hours on, 12 hours off has proved to be a great combination over a wide range of species. Of course, if you have a bright window near your terrarium, that will suffice, but direct sunlight for more than a few minutes per day should be avoided.
Disregard outdated advice in old books which is constantly repeated on the internet to colonize mushroom substrates in total darkness. Experience and rigorous peer reviewed studies have proved that exposure to low level ambient indoor lighting during spawn run and substrate colonizing will speed up the process, leading to full colonization up to a few days earlier than the same substrate would if colonized in darkness. In addition, mushroom mycelium develops a day/night circadian rhythm, so exposure to light from day of inoculation sets this process in motion, leading to earlier fruiting and harvest.

Source: http://www.mushroomvideos.com/Terrarium-Tek


Edited by PussyFart (08/29/15 12:54 AM)


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Invisiblemushmagic
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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: PussyFart]
    #22159112 - 08/29/15 01:21 AM (8 years, 5 months ago)

:whathesaid:


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OfflineThriftyNickel
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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: PussyFart]
    #22159284 - 08/29/15 04:29 AM (8 years, 5 months ago)

I have to strongly disagree with you. I've spawned cubensis in the dark and in the light, and both have had identical results. In fact, this batch has seen no light at all after initial inoculation of the grain jars aside from an incandescent light from time to time to check on things, etc. My two bins of straw have also become fully colonized in complete darkness. RR's full set of videos are good, but are also just a brief how-to on some different areas of general mushroom cultivation and isn't very thorough on growing cubensis. In fact, the chapter on casing shows him putting a sheet of tin foil poked with a few breather-holes over his tray after spreading the casing layer, which functions exactly the same as a black lid. This seems to contradict the quote from him that you posted, which is bizarre. But more importantly, Paul Stamets, in The Mushroom Cultivator, gives very specific growth parameters for cubensis. He recommends "incubation in total darkness", and for primordia formation "diffuse natural light or expose 12-16 hrs/day of grow-lux type flourescent light high on blue spectra," and for cropping do the same. I'm not aware of a better or more trustworthy source of advice on growing mushrooms than Stamets. I've made the mistake of gathering my information from forums like these where everyone has a different opinion and argues back and forth about things they've heard, and it's hard to tell what's true and what's false. I regret not reading Stamets' book first and cutting to the chase. I'd rather not get in a big debate over who's right here. I will post some pics later on if this continues successfully. Each time I do a batch I do things a little different, and I often encounter a new problem to solve, and sometimes things don't always work out and I learn something new. However, I'm not worried about the light issue at all. Everything is colonizing in darkness. How could it get any better than that?


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Invisiblemushmagic
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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: ThriftyNickel]
    #22159287 - 08/29/15 04:39 AM (8 years, 5 months ago)

Was it from MS?


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OfflineThriftyNickel
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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: mushmagic]
    #22159291 - 08/29/15 04:45 AM (8 years, 5 months ago)

What's MS?


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OfflineDeTwizzle
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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: PussyFart]
    #22159294 - 08/29/15 04:48 AM (8 years, 5 months ago)

Disregard outdated advice in old books which is constantly repeated on the internet to colonize mushroom substrates in total darkness. Experience and rigorous peer reviewed studies have proved that exposure to low level ambient indoor lighting during spawn run and substrate colonizing will speed up the process, leading to full colonization up to a few days earlier than the same substrate would if colonized in darkness. In addition, mushroom mycelium develops a day/night circadian rhythm, so exposure to light from day of inoculation sets this process in motion, leading to earlier fruiting and harvest.

Source: http://www.mushroomvideos.com/Terrarium-Tek




MS means multi-spore


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OfflineThriftyNickel
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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: DeTwizzle]
    #22159300 - 08/29/15 05:01 AM (8 years, 5 months ago)

Yes and no, I started with a spore syringe, couldn't get it to germinate on agar for some reason, so I inoculated some jars of bird seed. When those colonized, I placed one rhizomorphic sample of grain onto a petri dish, let it grow out, took a sample from one sector of the mycellium, grew it out again on another dish, then took a sample of that strain, put it in a sterilized blender, and inoculated the 7 jars that went into these two bins.


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Invisiblemushmagic
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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: ThriftyNickel]
    #22159312 - 08/29/15 05:25 AM (8 years, 5 months ago)

Well if it wasnt from a monoculture then the results really dont mean much as there are so many different strains present within the syringe that are all different genetics and perform differently.

If you want to test something like that and actually have concrete evidence/results then you will need to use a monoculture (isolated down to a single strain) to test it out:thumbup:


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OfflineThriftyNickel
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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: ThriftyNickel]
    #22159321 - 08/29/15 05:45 AM (8 years, 5 months ago)

Where's the source of your information? Can you please provide documentation of this, perhaps a side by side comparison? I would be excited to check it out. My substrate was colonized when I checked on it two weeks after spawning with grain, and room temperature was constant at 80 degrees. Should it be faster? Does it really matter if it s a few days quicker? Yes, my book is older. Has Stamets changed his opinion on the subject in a more current edition?

I was under the impression that I achieved a monoculture by doing as I did, by transferring one sliver of mycellium several times until it grew uniformly. Perhaps it takes more transfers than that? I'm still learning. But this seems irrelevant at this point because it colonized well like I hoped.

What I'm hearing is thàt I'm wrong, that i'm not supposed to incubate in darkness, yet my restults show that it works. I don't yet understand what's wrong here.


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Invisiblemushmagic
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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: ThriftyNickel]
    #22159327 - 08/29/15 05:55 AM (8 years, 5 months ago)

Light is beneficial during all stages you just want indirect for colonization and direct for fruiting. Just like us mushrooms develop a circadian rhythm.

My bad I must have missed that you did isolate, I thought you said it was straight from spore..

So when you were finished isolating was there still any sectoring?


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OfflineThriftyNickel
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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: mushmagic]
    #22159356 - 08/29/15 06:27 AM (8 years, 5 months ago)

I didn't think there was any sectoring, but I lack experience and could be wrong. All I had to go on was RR's short video on isolation. Perhaps I should spawn this next batch of substrate tomorrow with plastic wrap over one of the bins and report back here in a few weeks. I'm going to attach a picture of the jar that I feel is ready. My phone makes it look less white and more contrasty than reality. But by using the blender technique, and resulting liquid inoculation with the supposed monoculture, mycellium appeared uniformly over the grain at once while entirely in the dark. I believe it's been two weeks. The previous batch that I mentioned as colonizing the straw and was recently cased was in ambient light while grain spawning, and took about the same amount of time if not longer, but I also didn't blend up the mycellium as fine, so it grew in more patchy. Neither batches have the extreme rhizomorphic activity like I remember when first starting out and shooting spores into BRF jars.



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OfflinePussyFart
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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: ThriftyNickel]
    #22160111 - 08/29/15 10:43 AM (8 years, 5 months ago)

Quote:

ThrifyNickel said:
Paul Stamets, in The Mushroom Cultivator, gives very specific growth parameters for cubensis. He recommends "incubation in total darkness", and for primordia formation "diffuse natural light or expose 12-16 hrs/day of grow-lux type flourescent light high on blue spectra," and for cropping do the same. I'm not aware of a better or more trustworthy source of advice on growing mushrooms than Stamets.



That book is 30 years old......read some of his new material.....or RRs, like I linked to.....

Quote:

ThrifyNickel said:
mycellium appeared uniformly over the grain



This does not matter.....you cannot tell if its a monoculture in a jar, only a dish with a 2d surface....


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Offlinespacechildo
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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: ThriftyNickel]
    #22160154 - 08/29/15 10:52 AM (8 years, 5 months ago)

Quote:

ThrifyNickel said:
I have to strongly disagree with you. I've spawned cubensis in the dark and in the light, and both have had identical results.




then why are you making an effort to colonize them in the dark? :shrug:


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InvisibleNumeroEno
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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: PussyFart]
    #22160216 - 08/29/15 11:07 AM (8 years, 5 months ago)

Quote:

PussyFart said:
Quote:

ThrifyNickel said:
Paul Stamets, in The Mushroom Cultivator, gives very specific growth parameters for cubensis. He recommends "incubation in total darkness", and for primordia formation "diffuse natural light or expose 12-16 hrs/day of grow-lux type flourescent light high on blue spectra," and for cropping do the same. I'm not aware of a better or more trustworthy source of advice on growing mushrooms than Stamets.



That book is 30 years old......read some of his new material.....or RRs, like I linked to.....

Quote:

ThrifyNickel said:
mycellium appeared uniformly over the grain



This does not matter.....you cannot tell if its a monoculture in a jar, only a dish with a 2d surface....




:whathesaid:

OP, TMC is a great resource but the info in the book needs to be taken well salted, especially everything about growing cubes, because the book is 30 years old and there has been much advancement in the field since the book was published.

Light really has no negative effect during the incubation period of your culture, which is why grain jars and agar plates aren't stored in the dark. Incubating mycelium isn't subjected to total darkness in the wild, ya know?

For what it's worth, I like to keep environmental  conditions as stable as possible for the whole life cycle of the culture. If anything, rapid fluctuations in temps or light will only serve to confuse it.


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OfflinePussyFart
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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: NumeroEno]
    #22160244 - 08/29/15 11:14 AM (8 years, 5 months ago)

U guys keep saying incubation when u mean colonization....nobody should need to incubate anything....unless temps are way below room temp...


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Invisiblemrbart4444
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Re: Here's a great fruiting tray: [Re: PussyFart]
    #22160265 - 08/29/15 11:18 AM (8 years, 5 months ago)

bs my house stays at 73-75 and colozation is slow af if i dont incubate at 78-81


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