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venemenese said:
What do you mean by double end case them pinporn?

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verm on top and bottom

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taGyo said:
Fanning is not FAE. FAE is the passive act of air exchange, reducing CO2 levels and increasing O2. Mushrooms are closer to humans then plants so imagine if I put you in a room with a limited supply of oxygen and expected you to not only live but produce a Mona Lisa at the same time. You would suffer and probably die while drawing stick figures.

In the wild mushrooms are CONSTANTLY blasted by fresh air. There are very few places on Earth that are 100% humidity all the time. Mushrooms like fluctuation, this is what they're used to.

I've done a few cakes and a bunch of monotubs. You don't want it to be WET honestly. You want it to get a little dry before you mist again. Pins form from water evaporating on the surface. How do you think I knew you were over-misting and recommended that you cut down? Because those cakes look like they're getting loved to death. Without a proper environment the cakes won't pin.

DO NOT FAN IN BETWEEN MISTINGS. Fanning is to quickly destroy the environment so the fresh air coming in will have to pull more water from the perlite (Which you should also be misting lightly) to restart the humidity. This gives your cakes a jump start on the drying process and also wicks away excessive moisture from the cakes.

The reason why they're growing out like that past the dry verm layer is because they're getting over-saturated which is telling them they're not supposed to pin yet. Mushrooms don't like overly wet environments. Your SGFC should be 6-12" away from the wall and 6-12" away from the floor. In the middle of the room is ideal.

In the future the oven isn't necessary. But use it if you like.

DON'T ROLL FOR THE SECOND FLUSH.

Are their holes on the bottom? Raise that higher. Do you have qt jars?

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venemenese said:
The hygrometer let's me know the moisture content though. I like knowing when the humidity drops below 80. And what the temp is. And when I spray water I spray the same amount on the hygrometer to see how much it is. I just feel better having it in there. If I had more cakes I would take it out. It's like a confidence booster for me. Hah.

What do you mean by a touch more of FAE? Like fanning?

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Inocuole said:
Great well it's boosting your confidence in the wrong direction, since there's no way that thing is measuring the humidity level accurately from where it's at, and there's DEFINITELY no way it's measuring the humidity level at the surface of the cakes where it matters.

Humidity is supposed to fluctuate.  If you're going by some arbitrary number on a digital hygrometer then you're just holding yourself back from seeing the real signs you're supposed to be looking for.

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Inocuole said:
If it's too wet you'll see it being too wet.  It will have pooled water on it and it won't dry up within a few hours.  The mycelium around the base of the fruits may start to look a little translucent, that's a good indication it's waterlogged and that usually causes aborts.  The main issue here is that the mycelium needs to breathe.  Evaporation has to be consistently occurring throughout the whole fruiting cycle.

Too dry is obviously the opposite.  You want there to be some glistening and beads of moisture on the surface.  As long as it's not pooling or suffocating the mycelium it's fine, if the mycelium is dull and dry, it has to be misted or it'll begin to affect your yield as well.

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niclovinz10 said:
Probably won't work now if some are already contaminated, but for future reference if you ever start to see signs of contam soon enough you can use a water/peroxide mixture and lightly mist tub. I normally just add a cap full to my spray bottle.

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