|
Some of these posts are very old and might contain outdated information. You may wish to search for newer posts instead.
|
SimplyTrippy
Cloud Kicker

Registered: 05/30/15
Posts: 8
Last seen: 8 years, 3 months
|
Questions Regarding Monotub
#21747222 - 06/01/15 02:46 AM (8 years, 7 months ago) |
|
|
Hey everybody!.
New to the site and mycology. Love it, I've learned a lot already!. But, i have most of my experience with plants... I'm a little confused, after searching around, I thought id make an account and ask my questions straight forward..
Let me explain my goal and reasonings.. I only have this one opportunity to grow some mushrooms, on a whim, my roommate's given me the green light.. So, ive ordered some GoldenTeachers (1 syringe) from SW.. With that said, I have a decent sized window in my room (that i believe faces north). I plan to use this as my lighting source. (Will this be ENOUGH lighting? Even with a dark colored tote [where the only place light can enter is from the top]) I intend to get and use 2-3 50gallon tubs.. I've seen that it's possible to use a colored (non-clear) tote, by duck taping a clear plastic on top. (Is this correct? will it be enough light?)
I plan to make a sub consisting of:
2-3 bricks - Coco 1 small bag - Horse Manure 1 small bag - Cow Manure 1:4 ratio - Verm ~1 cup - bloodmeal ~1 cup - Gypsum ~1 cup - lime ~1 cup - canola oil
Is this a good sub? Would you recommend any adjustments? I only have this one chance, so Id like to maximize my yield in every possible way (assuming that i can prove to be sterile enough).
I plan to make a casing consisting of:
40% Vermiculite 40% (ph'd) Peat Moss 10% Coco Coir 10% Perlite Add lots of oyster shell and lime
Any adjustments?
Ok, so here are a few things im curious about... Thanks in advance!!!
I've read the piece RR wrote about mushroom lighting requirements, but what would classify as 'enough' lighting for my mushrooms? They will be in 50g tubs with plastic on top, allowing light in, in my room.
What is casing about? When do i do it?
How do i "FLOWER" Mushrooms?
From what i understand, Ill 'noc up some WBS (about 2-5 QT [5-2 cc ea.]), g2g about 30 - 34 more.. Mix fully colonized wbs with sterilized sub, in tubs. Wrap with black plastic bags (to prevent early pinning?) cover with blankets (to increase heat? promoting growth?), for ~10-14 days (until sub has fully colonized), then remove blankets/trash bags, allowing light to enter (initiating fruiting?).. So i would case the sub as soon as i "Birthed" the tub??
Please excuse my elementary ignorance and bare with me......... Thanks for any help!!!
|
SimplyTrippy
Cloud Kicker

Registered: 05/30/15
Posts: 8
Last seen: 8 years, 3 months
|
|
Sorry for the basic questions, I imagine you all are far beyond my level of understanding.... Ive never played with mycology before, but always wanted to, and Im still new to the site... So PLEASE, dont chew me out
|
Myconin
Mushroom Ninja



Registered: 05/11/15
Posts: 308
Loc: The shadows...
|
Re: Questions Regarding Monotub [Re: SimplyTrippy] 1
#21747238 - 06/01/15 02:57 AM (8 years, 7 months ago) |
|
|
I don't like being this guy, but everything you've asked has been asked 1000 times before by many noobs before you. I'm not trying to grill you here when I say: use the search function. Anything and everything you could possibly want to know is already on this site, you need to do some work to dig it all up. Posting a bunch of questions in a single post will upset some of the senior members. I'm just trying to help you not get chewed out. If, after you've searched your heart out, or found conflicting data, then post your questions.
I'm not trying to brush off your questions, or piss you off, but you'll most likely be told to use the search function by mods, TC's and admins in less kind words than I've chosen.
I wish you the very best in your search, you'll even learn many other tricks on the way 
WELCOME TO THE SHROOMERY
-------------------- "No great mind has ever existed without a touch of madness" - Aristotle "I have just three things to teach: Simplicity, Patience, Compassion. These three are your greatest treasures." - Lao Tzu "You've just gotta keep on keepin' on, man. You can't have 'no' in your heart" - Joe Dirt ThirtyCigarettes said: "All I know is every other thread I see in the Cultivation forum goes like this: QUESTION > ANSWER > DIFFERENT ANSWER > ARGUE > TC COMES AND CLEARS IT UP"
|
SimplyTrippy
Cloud Kicker

Registered: 05/30/15
Posts: 8
Last seen: 8 years, 3 months
|
Re: Questions Regarding Monotub [Re: Myconin]
#21747249 - 06/01/15 03:04 AM (8 years, 7 months ago) |
|
|
Yeah.....I figured I'd get that...
But, could you at least answer those few questions?. The best you could?. I've spent hours, probably literal days watching youtube and reading through here. Just a little confused, couldn't find those specific answers.
Or list a link
Edit: I mean do i have a decent set up idea? Sub? Case?
Edited by SimplyTrippy (06/01/15 03:08 AM)
|
Myconin
Mushroom Ninja



Registered: 05/11/15
Posts: 308
Loc: The shadows...
|
Re: Questions Regarding Monotub [Re: SimplyTrippy] 1
#21747264 - 06/01/15 03:18 AM (8 years, 7 months ago) |
|
|
I can't offer much for the sub and casing questions. My subs are only 4 ingredients: WBS(spawn), coir, gypsum, and water. And I don't case, not necessary with cubes ime.
Lighting: http://www.shroomery.org/11386/Lighting-Requirements-of-Mushrooms Your window should be enough too. The mushrooms have a circadian rythym, you need to mimic day and night cycles if you don't have access to a window.
Colored tote with plastic on top will be fine.
Never heard of flowering mushrooms in two years of cultivating, is that some new term, or have I just been under a rock that long lol? 
You should do some searches for pinning strategies, but your tek looks ok otherwise. Others may jump in and offer more advice, but otherwise I hope this has been helpful.
Happy growing
-------------------- "No great mind has ever existed without a touch of madness" - Aristotle "I have just three things to teach: Simplicity, Patience, Compassion. These three are your greatest treasures." - Lao Tzu "You've just gotta keep on keepin' on, man. You can't have 'no' in your heart" - Joe Dirt ThirtyCigarettes said: "All I know is every other thread I see in the Cultivation forum goes like this: QUESTION > ANSWER > DIFFERENT ANSWER > ARGUE > TC COMES AND CLEARS IT UP"
|
Zuto18
Awsome Avatar is loading



Registered: 04/29/15
Posts: 685
Loc: Zone 7a
Last seen: 13 days, 18 hours
|
Re: Questions Regarding Monotub [Re: SimplyTrippy] 1
#21747265 - 06/01/15 03:20 AM (8 years, 7 months ago) |
|
|
Quote:
PussyFart said: personally.....and just fyi, only a few drops of spore solution is actually needed per jar...and I would skip the casing layer for your first run.....its not needed.
Oh yea, and no need for incubation....on a shelf at room temp is just fine.....if you are comfortable then so are they.
Jars/bags/tubs/trays should colonize @ room temperature getting ambient/indirect light.
Main pinning triggers are full colonization, FAE and Evaporation off of the substrate.
Light is a secondary pinning trigger. For tropical species temperature is not a pinning factor.
P. Cubensis are a tropical species. You could colonize at 70F and fruit at 80F with great results.
Light has been proven beneficial during all stages of mycellium growth. Mushrooms like mammals have a circadian rhythm.
You want ambient/indirect light(on a 12/12 schedule preferably) for colonization and consolidation.
You want direct/intense 6500K light on a 12/12 schedule for fruiting.
Optimal temps are mid 70s throughout the whole grow, but anywhere from 65F-80F is acceptable.
Incubation is outdated/uneeded unless temps in the range stated above cannot be kept.
The inside of the jar is always a few degrees warmer than the outside because the mycellium produces heat..mycellium tends to stall at temps above 83F , and contams thrive.
Fruiting at cooler temps tends to produce denser, meatier fruits, while fruiting at higher temps will often produce hollow, less dense stems.
Mycelium should be exposed to ambient room light from day of inoculation as has been known for many years. Light is not a pinning trigger until after full colonization and an increase in air is given, and even then it's a secondary pinning trigger. RR
--------------------
Ever make mistakes in life? Lets make them birds, yeah, they are birds now. -Bob Ross I sense a fungus among us... -me when I'm trippin'
|
Green Bastard
Stranger

Registered: 02/26/14
Posts: 199
Loc: Canada
Last seen: 3 years, 8 months
|
Re: Questions Regarding Monotub [Re: Zuto18] 1
#21747718 - 06/01/15 09:01 AM (8 years, 7 months ago) |
|
|
My 2 cents....
Bulk sub: skip the blood meal and lime.
Casing layer: skip the pearlite, make sure the lime is of the hydrated sort, not dolomitic.
Use the search function to figure out why....
|
SimplyTrippy
Cloud Kicker

Registered: 05/30/15
Posts: 8
Last seen: 8 years, 3 months
|
Re: Questions Regarding Monotub [Re: Myconin]
#21763730 - 06/04/15 10:25 PM (8 years, 7 months ago) |
|
|
Ok, so I've looked around and found out that I'm quite limited when it comes to resources.... Can I use Cow Manure? Just a bunch of cow manure and some verm (Maybe add some peat moss?). I dont have access to Hpoo or Coco.. And, I've read conflicting posts about casing bulk sub. That its not necessary, but will it increase yield? Is the casing used as an attempt to "even" the pinset?
Also, I looked at a few "pinning strategies," from what I gather, I should slowly introduce FAE?? So, after my tub is fully colonized (god willing) i should remove the trashbag thats covering it, and then remove the top layer of ducktape, fill with polyfill. Wait for knots to show, then remove bottom layer of ducktape from holes, fill with tight w poly?
The object here is to introduce the substrate into a "PRE-fruiting" condition?
(AND, whats everyone's thoughts on clear totes vs solid totes?? I read something that said when placing in to FC "intense" lighting is preferred.. I ask because the largest tote i can find is solid. Also, I have an HPS running in greenhouse. Would the HPS lighting be better than ambient light from a window?)
Edited by SimplyTrippy (06/04/15 10:29 PM)
|
SimplyTrippy
Cloud Kicker

Registered: 05/30/15
Posts: 8
Last seen: 8 years, 3 months
|
|
Thanks for all your help guys
|
jbaby007
Badass



Registered: 02/28/15
Posts: 1,026
|
Re: Questions Regarding Monotub [Re: SimplyTrippy] 1
#21763779 - 06/04/15 10:36 PM (8 years, 7 months ago) |
|
|
From one noob to another, the search function is your best friend. There's really no need to ask the same questions that have been redundantly answered over and over. Luckily my sig will be included in this comment. Hint: You're over complicating things.
--------------------
|
mushpunx
Fungus Punk



Registered: 04/20/14
Posts: 13,394
Last seen: 11 days, 10 hours
|
Re: Questions Regarding Monotub [Re: jbaby007]
#21763834 - 06/04/15 10:53 PM (8 years, 7 months ago) |
|
|
Ok, Ill take a shot
First off, dont use the window. Buy a compact florescent lightbulb in 6500k range for like 7 bux at any drug store and just put in any lamp fixture.. 12 on 12 off. A window in the top of an opaque tub is fine.
Do you have a pet store near by? All chain pet stores carry coco bricks in the reptile section or you can order online. Honestly your first tubs you might want to go coir/verm/gypsum bevause it can just be mixed with boiling water in a bucket to heat treat.
Almost any other sub but coir is going to need to be pasturized properly. Ive heard straight cow poo isnt the best sub., I heard it gets a bit muddy. Dont use peat in a bulk sub only casings.
A casing layer is a non nutrient layer added on top when the substrate is fully colonized. Its optional.
As far as fruiting your tub.
After you mix up your sub, you cover the holes with duct tape untill its fully colonized. Do not cover your tub with trash bag thats outdated info. When your sub is 100% colonized, add your casing layer if you choose to use it, and after you see myc popping up over maybe 20% of the sub put into fruiting.
If you did not use a casing layer (id skip it your first tubs anyways).. once your tub is fully colonized simply remove the duct tape and stuff the bottom holes very tight with polyfill, the top holes very loose. Light 12 on 12 off.
Hope that helps
--------------------
 Amateur Mycologists United AMU Q&A
|
Mad Season
hookers and blackjack



Registered: 09/16/12
Posts: 12,666
Loc: Canada
|
Re: Questions Regarding Monotub [Re: jbaby007]
#21763854 - 06/04/15 11:01 PM (8 years, 7 months ago) |
|
|
Cow manure and verm works. Pasteurized properly. This applies for moisture content and field capacity: http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/17325780#17325780
This is pasteurization: http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/17246844
peat moss is pretty much strictly casings not bulk substrates.
clear totes definitely. Full colonization, Fae and surface humidity will cause pinning. I wouldn't case a mono for your first time. I think it's more educational to see mycelium and watch how it behaves before covering with casings. The more you see mycelium the better.
|
SimplyTrippy
Cloud Kicker

Registered: 05/30/15
Posts: 8
Last seen: 8 years, 3 months
|
Re: Questions Regarding Monotub [Re: Mad Season]
#21765509 - 06/05/15 11:26 AM (8 years, 7 months ago) |
|
|
Ok, well turns out PetSmart does carry coco, labeled as reptile bedding/substrate..
So, updated sub recipe:
2 bricks coco 1 sm bag C. Poo 8 qt vermiculite 1 1/4 tsp hydrated lime 2 handfuls of Gypsum 1/2 cup canola oil ~12 qts of water
Mix thoroughly Bring to FC Load sub into oven bags, twist tie close, tape extra. Poke 2 holes in bag. Place bag into pot of boiling water for 90 minutes
Sound good?
Back to the lighting. As i mentioned before, I have a 600w HPS running (Soon to be placed on 12/12). Would they benefit from the intensity? Otherwise I would prefer to use the window.. SO, clear tubs take the vote... Sorry to be redundant, will the window (mixed with the sub and a clear tote) give me the massive yields I want?
(Also, the trashbag is outdated? Meaning it can colonize in the light? As long as i dont remove the tape / introduce FAE?)
I feel like I'm starting to understand everything a little better.. Thank for all your help!!.
|
SimplyTrippy
Cloud Kicker

Registered: 05/30/15
Posts: 8
Last seen: 8 years, 3 months
|
|
I believe Ive soaked up a good bit of knowledge so far, I at least somewhat understand the principals of the mushroom lifecycle..
I feel a bit more confident..
My next question, although I have previously asked, Ia m still very curious, as I have seen many conflicting posts on the topic. "CLEAR TOTE vs COLORED TOTE."
I understand that both will work, but is there a preference? If so, why?
Iam stuck between buying 2-3 50 gallon rugged totes (HUGE Colored totes from lowes), or going with 3-4 clear 100qt tubs.. Which would you recommend? Which tub will yield more, hypothetically?
Will lighting factors make a noticeable difference? Will I yield more under a t5 set 12/12?
It is my understanding that, fungi, unlike plants, do not rely as HEAVILY on lighting. Rather, they use it as a sense of direction (Phototropism)? So as long as there is enough lighting to see (light coming in from window), the mushrooms will grow the same as if they were under a t5 (5500k).. Unlike cannabis for example, where every watt (including lightdepths and wavelenghts) counts.
|
oontribe

Registered: 01/14/15
Posts: 3,570
|
|
take a look at this: http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=255&Number=11961453&fpart=&PHPSESSID=
and light IS important dont skip the 6500k lamp it will give you meatier and bigger fruits...you dont want to work hard and get frustrated with the results, right?!
|
|