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Offlinekactus.brand.g
Registered: 08/22/14
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Re: Thanks guys! [Re: intelligentlife]
    #20996178 - 12/18/14 08:18 PM (9 years, 2 months ago)

Thanks for the tips intelligentlife:thumbup:
Next time around I'm going to put some of your advice to work:biggrin:
Also,all unwanted Lophohophra seeds can be sent to me for safe keeping:muahaha:


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OfflineKman1898
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Re: Thanks guys! [Re: kactus.brand.g]
    #20997767 - 12/19/14 06:18 AM (9 years, 2 months ago)

IF you happen to have any other extra seedsI'd gladly take some off your hands! I've been looking for a good place to pick some up at and have had no luck?  :/


--------------------
Difficulty has more to do with reading abillity and ability to precisely follow directions. You need no knowledge of chemistry whatsoever, you just need to understand some basic principles as simple in concept as: water boils at 100C and freezes at 0C. Otherwise all published syntheses of organic and inorganic compounds can be reproduced successfully by pretty nearly anyone with at least average intelligence. Problems always have to do with availability of materials, not esoteric knowledge.


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InvisibleMostly_HarmlessM
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Re: Thanks guys! [Re: Kman1898]
    #20997814 - 12/19/14 06:39 AM (9 years, 2 months ago)

Kman1898 please see the EG rules. There is no trading or source discussion in the EG, and no trading of any Lophophora seeds allowed on the Shroomery. The above posters are just being cheeky :tongue:


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●  EG Rules and Guidelines ● 


|| Lophophora Growers Unite! || Trichocereus Growers Unite! || Stone Eaters - A Soil Revolution ||


You must gather your party before venturing forth.


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Offlinekactus.brand.g
Registered: 08/22/14
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Re: Thanks guys! [Re: Mostly_Harmless]
    #20997848 - 12/19/14 07:00 AM (9 years, 2 months ago)

Yes,I was only kidding:lol:and yeah,since the internet can be hard to decipher whether someone is kidding or being serious,it's probably not a wise thing to joke around about.


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Offlineintelligentlife
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Re: Thanks guys! [Re: Kman1898]
    #21002265 - 12/20/14 08:39 AM (9 years, 2 months ago)

Quote:

Kman1898 said:
IF you happen to have any other extra seedsI'd gladly take some off your hands! I've been looking for a good place to pick some up at and have had no luck?  :/




No I do not do trade seeds of peyote.. Maybe got my message wrong. I mean about I give them to me friends usually inside my country. (even IF I do such a thing, I never would have so much seeds I can fill everyones need anyway in here internet)

This thread is just guide&journal of lophophora cultivation, I don't say I do big trade of seeds, just saying I don't have use for them.. That's why me friends like to take them and grow on their own. This thread isn't for seed sale/distribution.


You guys missed my point about..
:ifyoucanawe:


Edited by intelligentlife (12/20/14 08:47 AM)


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Offlineintelligentlife
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Re: Thanks guys! [Re: intelligentlife]
    #21095640 - 01/10/15 05:55 AM (9 years, 1 month ago)

Educative post yo!
Fertilizer shock
(I already knew this is happening when using strong N coco coir and transplanted end of season on purpose)

Okay, I did on purpose transplant before winter and as well used very nitrogen rich coco coir and there is the result I expected. Trays full of fertilizer burnt lophophora.

01/10/2015

These burns started to spread 3-4months after transplant, but immediatly after first watering when I break the dormancy of these. In drought and cold, plants didn't shocked spent few months in dry and fertilizer rich coco coir mix. Seems cactus plants takes nutrients during moist period of it's life.

This happens to many people who buy their plant and plant it in too rich soil and as long as plant starts to drink, it'll burn it's skin because of too high levels of fertilizing. That's why I prefer low fertilized soil from beginning and forth. Always check the amount of fertilizers in new soil! Lophophora will take some 1-2years to recover from fertilizer burn scars.

Now when comparing health of these specimens to health of another peyote tray, never transplanted any plant, same time dormancy time and conditions, only difference is plants in this thread follow have been treaten wrong by adding too high fertilized growing medium before winter dormancy. This how I should have taken care of them and just not to move them anywhere at end of summer:


Those plants probably survive all of them, maybe one or two may die because all chrolophyll have been burnt with nitrogen (Fertilizer was actually coco coir designed for cannabis plnts)

So this post is about, what you should not do. And when transplant happens, do it at spring time and always do not use too rich soil, or peyote skin suffers very much due to shock it causes.:tongue2:

Be careful with fertilizing and lophophora, especially those who receive new lophophora.. It's best it will not be planted to fertile soil at all. These plants wasn't used to high N, when I add it and waited over few months of dormancy, during spring time I can see what I expected, burned skin from rich soil. So fertilizers will shock lophophora plants very easy, these plants don't like sudden changes.

One failure at transplanting, causes you need to wait several seasons to get back the nice and smooth skin. This also probably disturbt the growth because most chrolophyll have been burnt off to dead skin.

Plants are still alive, drinking and so on.. Waiting sun under CFL lights.:sunny:

I had "cannabis grow coco coir" and only 40% of whole mixture, still it was too strong stuff to my lophs and they shock from it. Also I did transplant at end season and in to wrong soil. Wanted to show you what happens and show it for those people who didn't know this about lophophora species. Their skin is sensitive to many factors, not just bugs. Bug usually cause most less damage compared to wrong care of lophophora!

Sometimes I've seen few bugs will spread faster in fertile soil, I think some pests will spread too fast in high fertilized soil compared to very poor and mineral soil, I don't know the reason exactly but always when plants suffer over fertilization, few bugs love these fertile soil lophs and leaving most of the plants un harmed while spreading around fertile soil plants.:shrug:

Is it matter what soil and growing medium grower would use?
-Yes, if you change your soil wrong and plant takes shock from it.
-No, if you use always same soil from seed to cactus and cactus need to be already used to your own mixture of growing medium

I have not been used any pesticides for these plants and wasn't going to use, I'll see how they grow scars over and update the pics here over summer or something! Also I can see how much fertilizer burn causes delay at growth if it causes any.

There are as much growing medium possibilities as there are growers around. Do your own and stick with it if plants like it.:thumbup:


Edited by intelligentlife (01/10/15 06:18 AM)


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OfflineLemnaminor
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Re: Thanks guys! [Re: intelligentlife]
    #21095744 - 01/10/15 06:57 AM (9 years, 1 month ago)

i Actually want to ask you something:
some time ago (summer) i did actually transpanted some of my lophs, replanted with a mineral soil (mostly crushed Lava) and fertilized twice with an universal fertilizer ( i guess that  universal  is bad)
this exemplar is 6 Cm across, i had no way to monitor this as i left it to a friend, that watered every 3 weeks during summer til september
After summer it was kinda scarred, i thought it was Red spider mites but now looking at your Lophophoras, i have a doubt
There is a photo before and after the scars





What do you think? was that Red Mites or Fertilizers?


--------------------



                                                        "The best things in life, come covered in spines."


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Offlineintelligentlife
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Re: Thanks guys! [Re: Lemnaminor]
    #21095819 - 01/10/15 07:40 AM (9 years, 1 month ago)

RSM attack easy to heavy fertilized plant´get weak beacuse of burns. So there's little time in general to even try prevent RSM if you have used much nitrogen.. In my garden they target those weakest ones.. Those got already skin burned etc. Some have said those pests can "sense" that dying cactus chemical message(maybe in habitat that chemical message invite predators as well)

Few plants act in nature almost like I said.. They starts to spread lots of predator and pest interesting smell when they are eaten. And almost always predators find feast just because they smell plant also. But this is my theory about. I have read about those plant hormones effect to insects and many plant can "call" assist from predators via chemical communication of some sort. There are many way plant defense itself. I have to rely on neem oil, use it with caution and then simply trying to dislodge aand disturb those so they wont spread too much.. Their scars stop spreading usually after March..

May be both, I don't know exactly, fert burns comes very fast and then stops and plant starts to grow new epidermis.. RSM infection, or some other, doesn't cause so fast but also fast disappearing burns. Anyway, seems in high N, RSM infestation can be get out of control. At my containers of all lophophora, mostly all have some infestation, but usually seems they occur to fertilized plants better. IF those spread faster at high N soil, it's very likely RSM cause also very fast damage.

Difference to RSM and fertilizer burn can be seen but only after a while, fertilizer burns usually occur very instantly, killing some skin, then plant starts to grow new epidermis. Ofc older plants are more prone to chance of soil what comes to skin of plant.

Otherwise even I have few RSM, they are someway under control, causing damage only to few plants under lights. They go away at summer usually here.. Only eating plants indoors at winter time.

I think you have RSM here. I am not sue do they spread in high N soil faster but I have heard such thing and seems low fertilized plants doesn't attract those bugs to most of my plants anyway.. I use only water and night humidty to control them, they don't vanish but don't like to live there as well. Those plants of mine, they have few bugs as well but otherwise damage is just done with fertilizers and seems those fertilized plants have more bugs.. Most of my plants don't have any nor I see just small signs from them here or there.

Usually when I do something with lophophora, day I take care of it, I don't think those plants atleast for a week or two. Sometimes few months and never even touch those seedling trays.

I managed to grow from seed in pure rich N coco coir. Same stuff burned these skin. Seems if plants are from seed and have lots of fertilizers, they can grow very fast because of that. Seed just have to be germinated in place what is constantly full of fertilizing, but otherwise good climate to cacti. I have heard some commmercial growers use pure coco coir and strong fertilizers when grown from seed, to get fast big seedlings.

Take magnifying class and check out, but if that have become after first watering in new soil, it may have an effect to skin as well.:shrug:

It's sometimes hard to even see are those scars because of fertilizer burns or because of bugs. That's why I don't use big amount of liquid fertilizers for these plants, now they suddenl had some very rich N there, lol. What a shock.:yesnod:

My lophs have some minor scarring but few are those "nests" of bugs or something.. I don't know because most of them is just fine. I don't do much about those scars during summer then just using watering the way I let water run long time above the cactus and troug the soil. Seems lophs can take ferts trough skin as well.. Those of mine have had got some 2-12-11 fertilizers average NPK or something. Lots of others than N because it seems to be bad if it comes at sudden high doses. (also may attract bugs hard to get rid off, I don't know exactly, yet. normal winter mite it seems.)

Those two different plant containers in the picture, are in the open and under same lights anyway at pics I take today. I have seen some fast running and moist loving bugs, but not actual RSM. They like to hide between the ribs and starts running when distrubed, easy to see.

Sometimes it's also hard to tell apart is the damage caused to skin because of grower, bugs or fertilizer shock. Later on it's easier to tell what is caused by fertilizers and what isn't. I have actually one caespitosa, only few pups goes "corky" at skin, then al pups grow back to normal over summer. So on, it have been done that many winters.


Edited by intelligentlife (03/27/15 09:28 AM)


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Offlinekactus.brand.g
Registered: 08/22/14
Posts: 6,886
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Re: Thanks guys! [Re: Lemnaminor]
    #21095908 - 01/10/15 08:22 AM (9 years, 1 month ago)

Quote:

Lemnaminor said:
i Actually want to ask you something:
some time ago (summer) i did actually transpanted some of my lophs, replanted with a mineral soil (mostly crushed Lava) and fertilized twice with an universal fertilizer ( i guess that  universal  is bad)
this exemplar is 6 Cm across, i had no way to monitor this as i left it to a friend, that watered every 3 weeks during summer til september
After summer it was kinda scarred, i thought it was Red spider mites but now looking at your Lophophoras, i have a doubt
There is a photo before and after the scars





What do you think? was that Red Mites or Fertilizers?




If that universal fertilizer was miracle grow,then no that wasn't caused by it.
I have used miracle grow for all my plants,cacti included,and no matter what the dose I have never once burned up any plants,including Loph's,even as bad as people say that shit is!
I no longer use it anymore,but when I did,I never had problems,and all my plant thrived.
I actually stand by them,and think they have wonderful products:thumbup:
I just wish they would ditch all the chemicals and go to solely organic applications.


Edited by kactus.brand.g (01/10/15 09:18 AM)


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Offlineintelligentlife
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Re: Thanks guys! [Re: intelligentlife]
    #21464042 - 03/27/15 02:54 AM (8 years, 10 months ago)

Your pics may have happened both, first strong dose of ferts cause plant skin goes bad, plant starts to attract pests because they target always most bad shape plants.

This thread have talk bout those, Lsorales know more than me about those bugs. I just trying to manage and keep them under control but never tried to vanish them totally.. It feeels impossible.

Check this, recetly posted thread.

Date 03/27/2015

Picture from 3 different pots. I think 1/3rd of these died to overdose of ferts. Rest seems to have endure that shock good and bad. Some look like it's not big damage. I've still pick up several died plants off this spring. I have done what should not be done. Transplant these in to strong coco coir mix at winter and noticed the scale of burns after first watering at spring time. They had nice epidermis and one transplant ruined and killed some. Be careful with fertilizers if you are not familiar with lophophora plants, just want to say! Chill and give your absence to peyote, so cultivation works well.

Plants I have been updated:

These have been moved before winter to strong fert soil. And got burned bad after first spring watering.. These above are survivors from mistake should not be done. (lophs can tae ferts, but not suddenly.. my point of this)

Mites have probably visited as well along these plants. BUT: Now I can post pics how they recover and how fast it happen etc..

And only few month younger, comparsion picture to these above, different tray, never transplanted and fertilized with small amounts very randomly. Only difference is, I have not moved these plants below to any strong soil compared to plants I have updated in this thread.

Better pics from those I havent moved anywhere from tray I have sow all seeds at once:


This grow haven't had problems. Plants are only few months later sown than plants I've updated here. But this is cood compare picture because these have been taken care of properly(just forgot them and not hussle with transplanting so often to so young cactus plants)

imo, it's unecessary to transplant lophs if no need to. They do years in tray where they have been sown.

So lesson is: don't do like I did and increase ferts suddenly. Even small amounts of Nitrogen may be toxic to plants if it's not used to have huge amounts of them. If you want grow peyote with high fertilized soil, start them from seed in rich soil and keep on fertilizing. Don't do suddenly transplant them without good reason. And if so. Use same growing medium where your seedlings have been grown. So it's easier to grow them without these kind if accidents I did on purpose to show you what can happen if fertilizers are used excess amounts for plants not used to have so high amount of N. It's better to know where plants have been grown. And grow them in same growing medium you have given for them from all their life.

From those pics, I can't say more than I suspect they have RSM infection after fertilizer overdose. High fert lophs can be adjusted suddenly to poor rocky grow medium. It doesn't seem to work another way and risk of burns to skin and shock the plants get higher. Probably one way to increase fertilizers for plants not used to them are simple: slowly add more, but never add high dose at once. I wa expect only some scars, but several seedlings died right after fertilizers starts to cause problems.

But avoiding all ferts will cause very slow growth. These plants will tolerate them in general.. But excess amounts isn't so nice. (if person do not want to lost plants by accident)

I have so much them, and I am so lazy, I was discovered I had almost 20 hard grown peyote plants age of 2-4years or more stucked to one pot. I remember this at point when I found these.. hah.. Well good they were survived ayway.

This pot have too many lophophora plants obviously. Too much. I just had no container for them so decided to plant them to one tray, then separate this coming summer, but feels I don't have much space(otherwise I would not have lots of plants in small pot, I really have atm lack of space.. Just because I can't move anything to greenhouse till end May or early June. Depends how weather goes this spring. It's been very sunny here!

Yesterday I pollinated total 5 flowers to get more seeds out from these. I've noticed amount of seed and germination rate is greater if peyote receive pollen from plant next to it.

For some reason, peyote cactus do not "accept" own pollen, flower stays open days here. Usualy I know I am going to get big amount of seed per fruit when I see flowers dies istantly when receiving pollen from plant next to it. OR: They might mix own pollen to genetics too or something, but I doubt that since flower will not live any longer when it's been pollinated. Flowers what doesn't receive other plant pollen (self-sterile and self-fertile) ..Ariocarpus, lopohophora etc.. I have seen flower stay alive many days if another flower pollen don't end up to flower and "terminate" the job of flower. When I see flower don't die same evening I have add pollen to it. I know it's not good pollen or from wrong species.

But I haven't mixed more than different habitat plants together to do F1 strain.. Can yield any kind of plants, who knows..

Soon I have peyote old enough from my own seeds originally.. So actually using two certai peyote button as grafted. I can get F2 strain, but haven't think about that much.

I have sow some 50-60 seed around every pot and rocks in cactus containers. Seeds next to older peyote plants.. I don't know how deep they are or are they at surface..

I can report if I see peyote seedling grows as well near old peyote cactus as it grow inside humidity dome/bag.

Humidity just helps at beginning, but I usually start dry period when seedling tray gets first full dry, and I don't care how young seedling are when grow medium get dry, they endure relatively well in any circumsstances you might not even think how seedling can tolerate drought and seems they benefit from long droughts.. I was always ONLY after recent watered peyote "waterballoons" have get back to flat shape and soft. I just wait long sunny periods and then give watering they need and they plump up again, every time bigger and bigger, still every time the grow big, they should get shrink a bit before even think more watering.

Also I like random watering, Very random. It seems it's good to keep peyote plant in dry excess time and water only few times in year. (lik 4-6times per summer should be ok, but there are fastest way to grow this cactus but it's not related to this topic much..


These are my main mother/father plants for seeds I collect.. I have cut offshoots to cuttings from one plant. It had 2 buttons growing next to it. Now it's single head cactus but I was able to bury it several centimeters more under soil when removing those pups and take them for cuttings. Funny last sumer when I harvest two offshoots to cuttings, plant react By forcing 3 flowers right after offshoots harvested to cuttings.

Anyway, I spot new one with 3 flowers on it at same time.. All flowers had pollen from two different peyote. and two others got pollen from these flowers. I've count max seed amount ~30seeds/fruit.. Usually I got these amounts when I mix pollen to anothers. If someone flower alone, and in two-three days flower died, it will most likely grow fruit but seed count be very small. Just my observations about, seems seeds are better and yield more when tehy have been done By pollinating Willy x Willy.

This thread have plants Willy and koehresii mixed so I don't even know myself what tehy are. But they are just test subjects to this thread people can follow. If someone see this helps. :smile:


Edited by intelligentlife (03/27/15 12:30 PM)


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Offlineintelligentlife
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Re: Thanks guys! [Re: intelligentlife]
    #21540698 - 04/13/15 08:10 AM (8 years, 10 months ago)

I give a good massive water flood to all of these pots yesterday. They were underwater minute or so yesterday when I water them. Grow medium just didn't soak the water so it float long time above and later on get in to ground.

Ugly but alive.

04/13/2015

I have been spray minor neem for them. Yesteday I give second good proper watering for this season. First watering wipe off few plants.. They started to get massive scars after I soak grow medium at first time. 6 plants per container alive.

I'll keep updating these actual plants sown at first place. Other pictures isn't from same seed sow than these. I have abused and treat wrong these alot in fact. So there are enough DONT'S around topic..

So far so good.. Let's see how these test subjects goes over this summer.:sunny:

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This how it should be done, sow and let 'em grow. Forget transplanting for first year or two. Give your absence for them. Just make sure grow medium is good and drainage holes are under the tray. I have only ~1inch of grow medium for these. 2/3rd = coco/rocks+perite 50/50. And 1/3rd top layer only rocks above coco+rock+perlite mixture. Seeds I've sown between the rocks at surface.

Tray I have not ever transplant anyone of them and did proper grow medium. Coco+rocks+perlite Watered same time. Plump up atm.  Surface keeps on living as coco coir underneath and peyote buttons shrink/plump up. I water these always when plants shrivel underground and have been flat for a while.



Thesse corner plants I didn't know there are any till I soak the tray for this season month ago and find them under rocks year later of sow. There are more plants under rocks I have found lately. Even seedlings germinated year later I see. I didn't know that corner of tray have seedlings till I spot them when they plump up and moved rocks away.. Then I spot there are many small seedilngs grown "underground" ..I don't know when or how they have survived and lived without I haven't seen them but here they are now.:lol:

That tray have been enjoy very much about my absence.


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Edited by intelligentlife (04/13/15 08:42 AM)


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OfflineLemnaminor
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Re: Thanks guys! [Re: intelligentlife]
    #21540847 - 04/13/15 09:09 AM (8 years, 10 months ago)

How many seeds you did sow the first time? ( the batch that you happened to get those 18 lophs)

By the way, those ones look great, how old are they?
Quote:

intelligentlife said:








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                                                        "The best things in life, come covered in spines."


Edited by Lemnaminor (04/13/15 09:14 AM)


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Invisibleferrel_human
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Re: Thanks guys! [Re: Lemnaminor]
    #21540928 - 04/13/15 09:36 AM (8 years, 10 months ago)

They all look great man. And the ones that had visit from the assholes (mites) should outgrow it. In my garden, I tend to see grafted lophs succumb to mites more often than plants on their own roots.


--------------------
Nature is my church and walking through it is gospel. It tells no lies and reveals all to those who look, and listen, closely.
-Karode


Looking for Mimosa tenuiflora seeds. Buttons for trade


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Offlineintelligentlife
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Re: Thanks guys! [Re: ferrel_human]
    #21541299 - 04/13/15 11:24 AM (8 years, 10 months ago)

Quote:

ferrel_human said:
They all look great man. And the ones that had visit from the assholes (mites) should outgrow it. In my garden, I tend to see grafted lophs succumb to mites more often than plants on their own roots.




Here it's opposite. Grafted lophs never have mites here. Or very rarely spider mites just don't attack grafted buttons. And they are easy to keep away from them.


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Offlineintelligentlife
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Re: Thanks guys! [Re: Lemnaminor]
    #21541339 - 04/13/15 11:31 AM (8 years, 10 months ago)

Quote:

Lemnaminor said:
How many seeds you did sow the first time? ( the batch that you happened to get those 18 lophs)

By the way, those ones look great, how old are they?
Quote:

intelligentlife said:











Few months(3-5months) younger than actual lophs in this thread.

I sow 100 seeds at first time.. Lost many seedlings as young age.

They really don't need much human attention after first months of droughts starts. Better looking they turn if they have more dry time. Seems to resist bugs as well if tray is just doesn't taken care of anyway for a long time. These were last winter in dry long time. I soak them at March and most just survived and I spot a new plants grow under rocks.

Tray what I haven't done anything than watering and give once fertilizers do much better. Almost same age plants tho.

Younger, non disturbed ones do better atm,  I sow 600 seeds in to green tray there as "nursery mix bag" I got, not all germinated, but I have enough lophs from those seeds

I would say growing medium should be same several years without problems with lophophora. Give water when you dare or want, full soak. After first soak let 'em go dry and so on slowly remove the humidity as well.. That's how I did.


Edited by intelligentlife (04/13/15 11:35 AM)


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Invisibleuncommonsence
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Re: Lophophora Cultivation from seed with mini-greenhouse and heating pad. [Blog style project going] [Re: intelligentlife]
    #21592830 - 04/24/15 09:55 PM (8 years, 9 months ago)

Saving this thread.


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Offlineintelligentlife
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Re: Lophophora Cultivation from seed with mini-greenhouse and heating pad. [Blog style project going] [Re: uncommonsence]
    #21624784 - 05/02/15 03:48 AM (8 years, 9 months ago)

Recovering from mite attack and abused by me. :lol:

05/02/2015

Some really show signs of both, mites and nitrogen toxicity. Some have endure actually relatively well. I watered these yesterday.

I still use 10Wattage heating mat under these 3 pots at windowsill. Day times on, night off. I don't use timer anymore, I'll take it off at evening, add plug to wall at day time, if I remember. It's not so critical anymore to use it in general. And heating is off during winter.


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Edited by intelligentlife (05/02/15 03:59 AM)


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OfflineLemnaminor
Lophophora - eyed
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Registered: 11/13/13
Posts: 1,366
Loc: Sicily
Last seen: 2 months, 18 days
Re: Lophophora Cultivation from seed with mini-greenhouse and heating pad. [Blog style project going] [Re: intelligentlife]
    #21625000 - 05/02/15 07:09 AM (8 years, 9 months ago)

the one pupping from grow tip is gonna be rad!


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                                                        "The best things in life, come covered in spines."


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InvisibleNarkedAt90ft
Deep in the Blue Abyss
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Registered: 12/04/13
Posts: 149
Loc: Marianas Trench
Re: Lophophora Cultivation from seed with mini-greenhouse and heating pad. [Blog style project going] [Re: Lemnaminor]
    #21625241 - 05/02/15 09:05 AM (8 years, 9 months ago)

Very cool to see them healing!


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ni·tro·gen nar·co·sis noun - a drowsy state induced by breathing air under higher than atmospheric pressure, for example, in deep-sea diving. Also known as Rapture of The Deep.

Let's Trade!


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OfflineP.Zappatecorum
Lophophilus
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Registered: 10/15/12
Posts: 2,094
Loc: Cactaceae
Last seen: 3 years, 6 months
Re: Lophophora Cultivation from seed with mini-greenhouse and heating pad. [Blog style project going] [Re: NarkedAt90ft]
    #21625367 - 05/02/15 09:51 AM (8 years, 9 months ago)

Nice write up, I will have to come back and read through from the start.  Interesting about the nitrogen burn.  Have you ever had etiolation happen due to repotting in a more nutrient rich soil?  I had some seedlings in straight horticultural sand and switched them to a sand/rock/soil mix that is still relatively low nutrients but it was quite a lot more nutritious than the straight silica I started them in and they immediately changed shape from nice and flat to tall, sharp pencil tips.  This was with no change in light source or temperature.


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