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Offlinekactus.brand.g
Registered: 08/22/14
Posts: 6,886
Last seen: 7 years, 2 months
For LSoares :-)
    #21486754 - 04/01/15 08:27 AM (9 years, 1 month ago)

Here is that Loph graft you wanted to see before I toss it.
No mites,just shriveled because it never took in the first place:smirk:
This is why I don't graft:lol:


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OfflineLSoares
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Re: For LSoares :-) [Re: kactus.brand.g]
    #21486764 - 04/01/15 08:29 AM (9 years, 1 month ago)

Man, that button isn't dead. You can regraft it or put it to root, but please don't toss it. Seriously.

(unless you feel like tossing it into a small box and sending it my way. JK. :smirk:)


--------------------
Z. in sunny Lisbon, Portugal
Cactus grower particularly fond of north american miniatures.
http://jardineiroazelha.blogspot.pt/

Sowing cacti - my way!
Random pictures of my collection.
Photographing cacti, Z's way.

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Offlinekactus.brand.g
Registered: 08/22/14
Posts: 6,886
Last seen: 7 years, 2 months
Re: For LSoares :-) [Re: LSoares]
    #21486780 - 04/01/15 08:34 AM (9 years, 1 month ago)

Quote:

LSoares said:
Man, that button isn't dead. You can regraft it or put it to root, but please don't toss it. Seriously.

(unless you feel like tossing it into a small box and sending it my way. JK. :smirk:)




I know it's not,I just got sick of looking at it's ugly butt:lol:
If it were any other type of Lophohora I would just toss it,but seeing as it's not,I'll do just as you say:cool:
What would happen if I just leave it be?
Will it eventually push out roots from it's side somehow?
Also what the heck man,you responded within seconds of me posting!!!
I surely didn't expect a response until after I've returned home form work,Thanks a lot buddy:peyotespectrum:

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Offlinekactus.brand.g
Registered: 08/22/14
Posts: 6,886
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Re: For LSoares :-) [Re: kactus.brand.g] * 3
    #21486798 - 04/01/15 08:42 AM (9 years, 1 month ago)

Also,I take that back,I have had one successful graft!


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OfflineLSoares
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Re: For LSoares :-) [Re: kactus.brand.g]
    #21486805 - 04/01/15 08:44 AM (9 years, 1 month ago)

Quote:

kactus.brand.g said:
What would happen if I just leave it be?
Will it eventually push out roots from it's side somehow?
Also what the heck man,you responded within seconds of me posting!!!
I surely didn't expect a response until after I've returned home form work,Thanks a lot buddy:peyotespectrum:



Didn't they tell you I live in the internet? I'm not a person, I'm a very sophisticated bot. :cool:

I'm at work and with plenty of time to kill, I keep the shroomery page open and chek it once in a while. :wink:

I suppose it will put out roots just like any other degrafted button. Just make sure you rest in sand or something like that, not hanging there to dry at the top of a trichostick. :wink:


--------------------
Z. in sunny Lisbon, Portugal
Cactus grower particularly fond of north american miniatures.
http://jardineiroazelha.blogspot.pt/

Sowing cacti - my way!
Random pictures of my collection.
Photographing cacti, Z's way.

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Invisible1234go
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Registered: 07/08/09
Posts: 57,883
Re: For LSoares :-) [Re: kactus.brand.g]
    #21486822 - 04/01/15 08:51 AM (9 years, 1 month ago)

Quote:

kactus.brand.g said:
Also,I take that back,I have had one successful graft!








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Offlinekactus.brand.g
Registered: 08/22/14
Posts: 6,886
Last seen: 7 years, 2 months
Re: For LSoares :-) [Re: 1234go]
    #21486867 - 04/01/15 09:08 AM (9 years, 1 month ago)

Quote:

LSoares said:
Quote:

kactus.brand.g said:
What would happen if I just leave it be?
Will it eventually push out roots from it's side somehow?
Also what the heck man,you responded within seconds of me posting!!!
I surely didn't expect a response until after I've returned home form work,Thanks a lot buddy:peyotespectrum:



Didn't they tell you I live in the internet? I'm not a person, I'm a very sophisticated bot. :cool:

I'm at work and with plenty of time to kill, I keep the shroomery page open and chek it once in a while. :wink:

I suppose it will put out roots just like any other degrafted button. Just make sure you rest in sand or something like that, not hanging there to dry at the top of a trichostick. :wink:




I see:lol: I wish I could surf the net while at work you lucky guy:biggrin:
But yeah,I'll try and keep this little guy alive,and if you lived near me,I would just give it to you,but alas,we are worlds apart:smirk:
Thanks for the input,and this is why I can never leave this place,because of helpful people like you:thumbup:



Quote:

1234go said:
Quote:

kactus.brand.g said:
Also,I take that back,I have had one successful graft!












Thanks mate,but alas I no longer own that plant:sad:
What the hell was I thinking:facepalm:

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Offlineintelligentlife
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Re: For LSoares :-) [Re: kactus.brand.g]
    #21487200 - 04/01/15 10:52 AM (9 years, 1 month ago)

This isn't for me but wanted to say about.

How long time you spent between first cut and scion have attached?

long time open wounds and too long time spent "aiming" the button may decrease persentage of success very much. Once I add button to it's Place, I never move it again, nor inspect do I have vascular rings properly. With same diameter stocks.

I usuall do grafts today very fast. I just do fast cut, then plant scion above it and wait.

It's actually very unlikely you hit vascular ring "perfectly" above each others. It's not good to do things in rush but with grafting. Longer I have waited and aim button "correctly" most likely it have failed.

Those buttons I have plant fast above stock have never failed. I clean my knife with alcohol, then I wipe my blade every time. I don't use so sharp blades, but sharp enough.

Just wanted to say, most failures occur when I am trying to spent time to make vascular rings hit "OK"

After I stop thinking it too much, I have succeed. They most likely get right place at first. I have never take time how long it takes but I do it very fast. After I have started to do grafts fast, failure percentage have drop to almost 0% with lophs.

I use for degrafting regular cacti mix, maybe more coco coir than usual. Then I just plant buttons there and wait. Some may root fast in week, same size button near by may take month.

Unecessary inspecting of rooting button may cause roots get broken and lead to rot so it's best to leave buttons there for weeks. I actually even have not check roots of my degrafts ever. They just started to grow one by one when I watered them after few weeks of being buried 1/3 to coco coir and rocks. Few plump up, few didn't but next watering there were new buttons plump up and it was clear sign of buttons have roots. I don't even know how big roots there are but I don't dare to take them off from soil to check because they always swollen when I water them and drink at the moment.

I used 2-3cm size buttons cut off from pereskiopsis stock, dried them enough and just add above coco+rock substrate. Wait them be above dry grow medium several weeks and then I soak grow medium and so on.. There was one button wasn't plump up after two soak but third soak show me it have roots as well.

I don't know why that graft haven't take to grow but looks it's dehydrated. I would not toss it nor I don't see any problems with it. But picture isn't so accurate I can't see is that skin full of mite scars.

Sometimes I have experienced(at beginning of grafting) when I used too much time to try aim vascuar rings.... So problem was buttons may attach, grow and stay ok for months.. Till they suddenly just died. It have happened after I stop wasting time during grafting.

Use two clean knives to make cuts. Start from stock and do it how you want. Then cut peyote with another clean knife or wipe your knife clean and instantly plant button to stock and give pressure for it. Actual scion have very small amount of time having open wound. Two clean blades helps just because you can use another clean knife to loph(s) you cut.

I always first do stock ready, then do clean cut and instantly in few seconds plant it above stock and use rubber band to cause pressure. By doing fast I have not encounter any problems with lophophora grafts. And I always cut the scion last and make sure they are all full of water.

So button shoud be very firm (actually over watered) as well as stock should have full of water. Those things also have helped me with speed. So far speed have been show up the key factor... Job done in few seconds will success. With same diam. stock and scion. I never check much vascular rings. I just fast check where they are and then add scion to stock. Then I move them to hot to let callous fast. My climate cause callous easy to get mold without any humidity so that's why I move grafts under hot CFL light for 2-3weeks till tehy attach to stock.

Just wanted to say if you are not comfortable with grafting, I wonder how long time you spent at point when scion and stock plant have both cuts? ..as I said, almost all grafts have failed if I have spent too long time with grafting or dehydrated scion or stock.

I really don't spent much more time than few seconds when I do cut to peyote button before it's been alraedy under pressure and moved to callous over. Those grafts I have tried to aim too long time vasculars, have been failed instantly or just got some fungi and they die after months or year after short time of growth.

I don't see reason to toss that graft. But I don't see clearly it's condition. Based on picture, I wuld just water it. If you haven't already cut it off from stock.

So far I've noticed time is most important thing.. I barely even today look where vascular ring is. Most likely they get to right spot what comes to vascular rings at first time. After I stop thinking those vasculars, my persentage of success have been increased dramatically. Also fast job have big role when grafting.

It's not so hard you would think, after I stop thinking grafting lophophora is hard I have been more confident and faster and managed to do better job with very small risk of any fungi or dirt what-so-ever have get between scion and stock. I have stop useing superglue as well. Only used it for grafts where it's hard to keep scion at one place, scion movement during phase of they attach another is very critical sometimes and may kill scion. Too long time waiting fungi may kill grafted plant after it starts to be successful. Longest time I had graft living was over year before it suddenly rotted inside out. It was few of my first grafts and I spent too long time keeping scion and stock as open wound.

Just wanted to say to you if you have not been okey with grafting. You may spent too much time with them when they have open wounds? Or how usually you inspect them? (I have also noticed if touching the scion without any need of it, may cause it move and disturb the process both plants together)

You should try (if you have enough buttons) to do graft where timeline between scion have cut and when it's at place is only few seconds. I use two or one blade, with one blade I need to wipe it clean after every cut but I always prepare stock first, then I take new clean knife to cut peyote button and act fast to get it above stock and nothing should get between scion and stock vascular rings and flesh. Hot CFL bulbs will dry callous fast and I keep rubber bands as pressure 2-3weeks as well.

It's relatively easy with lophophora as long as you don't cut lophophora button too much above. I have done few mistakes and cut too much and lost vascular rind and only I can see is small hole at center of button. So it's better to cut first at lower and see do you need to cut more or not.

In case if you want to try grafting in future. Here's few suggestions for it to increase success change. So far what I've been done grafts. People may over-think whole vascular rings with grafting. After I stop thinking them I have success better. Just did fast job when grafting. Using clean knives, not even so sharp ones.


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Invisible1234go
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Re: For LSoares :-) [Re: kactus.brand.g]
    #21487214 - 04/01/15 10:55 AM (9 years, 1 month ago)

Quote:

kactus.brand.g said:
Thanks mate,but alas I no longer own that plant:sad:
What the hell was I thinking:facepalm:




Good question. :waits:

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Offlinekactus.brand.g
Registered: 08/22/14
Posts: 6,886
Last seen: 7 years, 2 months
Re: For LSoares :-) [Re: 1234go]
    #21488759 - 04/01/15 05:27 PM (9 years, 1 month ago)

Well,I did the first one rather fast,within a minute,and I let it if for a while before I determined that I didn't cut the Trich good enough and that the loph would eventually be pushed off the stock.
I bet the original one actually took,and it was damn near impossible to pull back off.
See what happens when you decide to get too messed up before you do important tasks:stoned:
Anyway,I took way too much time trying to position it all right the second time around,and that was most likely my downfall.
Anyway,I have no more Lophs,or grafting stock,so I'll not try again anytime soon.
It was mostly just for the novelty of it all,and too see if I could do it:cool:
Thanks for all your input intelligentlife:thumbup:
It's always good to hear what you have to say:cool:
Next time I do try,I'm going to use all your advice and not fail:peyotespectrum:


Quote:

1234go said:
Quote:

kactus.brand.g said:
Thanks mate,but alas I no longer own that plant:sad:
What the hell was I thinking:facepalm:




Good question. :waits:




:jah:

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Invisibleferrel_human
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Re: For LSoares :-) [Re: kactus.brand.g]
    #21488799 - 04/01/15 05:38 PM (9 years, 1 month ago)

Looks alive. Just shriveled


--------------------
Nature is my church and walking through it is gospel. It tells no lies and reveals all to those who look, and listen, closely.
-Karode

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Offlinekactus.brand.g
Registered: 08/22/14
Posts: 6,886
Last seen: 7 years, 2 months
Re: For LSoares :-) [Re: ferrel_human]
    #21488851 - 04/01/15 05:49 PM (9 years, 1 month ago)

Quote:

ferrel_human said:
Looks alive. Just shriveled




Oh it's alive,it's just not getting any water uptake,because it failed:lol:

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Offlineintelligentlife
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Re: For LSoares :-) [Re: kactus.brand.g]
    #21489708 - 04/01/15 08:42 PM (9 years, 1 month ago)

kactus.brand.g:
I haven't mind even fresh trich cut have planted way more bigger loph. With rubber bands, that skin said to push scion up, it ait gonna happen.

I have plenty of "worse" cuts at stock. Just slice it, see closer aerolas off and then I slice yote and plant it to stock. Rubber bands from two direction, so pressure will be at 4 spot.

Then just move the cactus shady but hot and dry to let callous take over, forget them for week or two.

Sometimes I remove rubber band within week. Another one of these didn't got pushed off much even it have dried trich skin risen above, but nothing I have seen pushed off the scion. With full watered peyote and trich, it's fast and I don't even try to be perfect with stock. As long as I have enough pressure. As hard as it may leave marks to peyote but they will vanish when I take off those rubber bands. (another is ok, another is "wrong")


That one behind. I didn't much cut moar those ribs off. Just few to get spikes away and it have dried skin risen but scion is still good, I give so strong rubber band pressure those may have permanent marks from them, but usually no because they are so fat rubber bands.
And then I just operate fast and used strong rubber bands to give good pressure. Rubber bands I usually add over the scion and under the pot. So only with grafts with no erected stock (or too small) superglue will be good.

Anyway. It's not so accurate to get stock properly. I don't even use so good knives. Making sure all happens fast so there are no contamination risk.

I may have failed ariocarpus beause I wasn't see the vasculars and just tryin to spot it on somewhere.. I just haven't want to cut any ariocarpus much, those fais were years ago when I fail also lots of yotes.
:dawerp:

Edited by intelligentlife (04/01/15 08:46 PM)

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Offlinekactus.brand.g
Registered: 08/22/14
Posts: 6,886
Last seen: 7 years, 2 months
Re: For LSoares :-) [Re: intelligentlife]
    #21490196 - 04/01/15 10:07 PM (9 years, 1 month ago)

Quote:

intelligentlife said:
kactus.brand.g:
I haven't mind even fresh trich cut have planted way more bigger loph. With rubber bands, that skin said to push scion up, it ait gonna happen.

I have plenty of "worse" cuts at stock. Just slice it, see closer aerolas off and then I slice yote and plant it to stock. Rubber bands from two direction, so pressure will be at 4 spot.

Then just move the cactus shady but hot and dry to let callous take over, forget them for week or two.

Sometimes I remove rubber band within week. Another one of these didn't got pushed off much even it have dried trich skin risen above, but nothing I have seen pushed off the scion. With full watered peyote and trich, it's fast and I don't even try to be perfect with stock. As long as I have enough pressure. As hard as it may leave marks to peyote but they will vanish when I take off those rubber bands. (another is ok, another is "wrong")


That one behind. I didn't much cut moar those ribs off. Just few to get spikes away and it have dried skin risen but scion is still good, I give so strong rubber band pressure those may have permanent marks from them, but usually no because they are so fat rubber bands.
And then I just operate fast and used strong rubber bands to give good pressure. Rubber bands I usually add over the scion and under the pot. So only with grafts with no erected stock (or too small) superglue will be good.

Anyway. It's not so accurate to get stock properly. I don't even use so good knives. Making sure all happens fast so there are no contamination risk.

I may have failed ariocarpus beause I wasn't see the vasculars and just tryin to spot it on somewhere.. I just haven't want to cut any ariocarpus much, those fais were years ago when I fail also lots of yotes.
:dawerp:





Right on:thumbup:
Yeah,I made sure my Loph was fully watered first,and that little button was so plump at first,but then after a few days it shriveled,and has never recovered.
I think the only reason why it's still alive is because I mist it down with a spray bottle to keep it hydrated.
Next time I'll use a sterile blade,and rubber bands:thumbup:
I actually have some fat blue rubebrbands,and they would be perfect for the job,I just remembered!
I knew I saved them for a reason:biggrin:
Thanks for all the tips ineintelligentlife,maybe one day I'll locate some more lophs,and really get this whole grafting process down pat:yesnod:
And your grafts really look nice:cactus:

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Offlineintelligentlife
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GL [Re: kactus.brand.g]
    #21490752 - 04/02/15 12:29 AM (9 years, 1 month ago)

Good luck for future grafts!
:sunny:

They would look better but so far so good. Later on they probably look much better when they grow. I hope they don't offshoot much as grafted. Sometimes they grow offshoots to un-natural spots around lophophora. One reason I don't like to grow them with big stocks. Small stock or slow growing stock is just good with ornamental cultivation.. :tongue2:

Those are just emerency grafts because blue myrtle stocks died over winter. So I need to take two trich to graft them. I had also tips from them (cut half) so I can root them and use as stock to ario's or so.. My astrophytums at pereskiopsis I have planned to graft to trichs. I just need to wait they grow bigger. And yet I need first of all get good stock.

I use them like this. Its old picture but same size pot and same idea anyway, I do this to all grafts, keep rubber bands 1-2week. Sometimes 3weeks if I forgot them. Those rubber band pressure caused marks to skin will go away in no time.

I know when pressure is ok when rubber band can be really seen with bare eye it cause pressure. Their "lines" will be gone fast from skin of peyote. Most scions can take very much pressure from them.

You may see how rubber bands also cause pressure because square plastic pot goes like that. Those pots have drainage holes at good spot so rubber band can be attached to base of pot and keep it there.

With two persons it's easier to attach rubber bands but I can manage to do it on my own even I have only one proper hand I can use like normal people. superglue have worked fine to prevent accidentally slip off the scion because pressure may be too much to one direction. That's why I adjust them later more accurate and see from scion is it at right angle to cut at stock.

They keep pressure very well. It can cause pressure to skin and leave rubber band mark to skin, it will recover. But too loose pressure isn't good.

Buy diffeent size, pref wide rubber bands and use them like that. Make sure stock is erected so scion wont slip off because of rubber bands.

That point you may use superglue to keep scion attached so pressure won't cause scion to "slip off" (if the actual stock isn't vertical enough) OR if you have stock not so vertical, do slice vertical enough so it won't cause rubber bands force scion to slip off.

Trichs and lophs are still pretty sticky so they attach easy together. Blue Myrtle cut feels "slipper" and button moves very easy so with them I would use two-three drops of superglue around the scion.

I like that way grafting, never used humidity except with pereskiopsis.. I may try it with ariocarpus.. I may buy few soon to test grafting. Or I buy seeds, then grow them with pereskiopsis and graft later to trich.. I need to test both, humid and dry. And see for sure is it humidity really necessary or do I have failed in the past with ario's simply by loosing time by trying to find vascular ring. Ario's seems to have very different flesh inside.

I have good source of ariocarpus plants, as long as I have money.:yesnod:

Small tip: use littlebit etiolated trichs (they are softer) so it's easier to scion to attach. Picture where vrest section is grafted. I used etiolated 1,5cm thick bridgesii grown by friend of mine near cannabis plants under HPS. 600W HPS and only 1,5-2cm think growth on trichs.:lol:

They are perfect and match to growth tip of columnar cactus what comes how soft they are.

Those two lophs, they are grafted to non-etiolated seedlings I cut them half and took tip for future graft stock. I think to cause some etiolation for them and then try small astrophytum grafts when it's summer. :thumbup:

I need anyway to cut astrophytums off from pereskiopsis when they are big enough. I haven't much tried astrophytum grafts, once I did but I used bad rubber bands, they snap off and caused scion fall off.. haha. Happened long time ago.

So make sure rubber bands don't have any cracks or don't keep them in sun.. If they snap broken and you are not there, it may cause scion to slip off as well. So it's better to use new good rubbber bands, to be sure they don't break over 1-2weeks when you need them.

After 2-3weeks, you should feel scion starts plump up. After few weeks from that actual growth spurt seems to occur. So it may take longer to cause both plants grow together permanently. It seems, because there seems to be delay when grafting to columnars. Even callous look fine and button is attached. They may still develop growth between after 2weeks. I think it may cause those scions don't instantly burst to growth. Some take more, some less. And indeed, some may live months, year and then suddenly die when grown for a while attached to trichocereus.

I think too long time cause cut to exposure mold and fungi spores. I make sure I have always some "roof" above stock so I can keep few minutes longer without need to think do any spores end up to that cut. 0,5Liter pint jar to small stock is good to cover stock with cut and take it off when you are about to cut scion and plant it to stock.. Then cut scion and plant it fast. I never do grafts anymore at "open" ...I try to make sure no spores can fall above and stay between the scion and stock. What seems it kill those scions later on. Like I said, once button grow year and then suddenly had mold and rot. And those were scions I spent too much time trying to aim the vascular ring. With same diameter plants, it's harder to even fail and do fast. But you can use different diameter stock/scion as well, but it's not always so easy. Especially if button is too big. Like up there in my picture. Another button had bigger diameter than trichocereus. So it went "wrong" but seems it's ok so far. Another graft have proper diameter scion.

But those were emerency grafts.. I should take those others as well off from bluemyrtle and try them to more frost tolerant species. But so far two of them haven't died over winter as stocks.

At first you would want to try superglue to few spots to make sure scion stay at place. It's a bit tricky to get hard pressure with rubber bands without causing scion to move. But when they are at place, they work. It's hard to explain how to do correctly with rubber bands so you can "drop" it above scion. Spread it with your fingers, when rubber band is pressuring stock, take your fingers off by moving them towardds stock and slowly let it go. First add rubber band under the pot, then lift it between two fingers and spread it, then slowly add it to cause pressure.

Video would be easier to show but I think you know what I mean?

It's failure if you attach rubber band to scion without superglue and then try get it under container. Easier it is to push it between floor and container and lift it above scion so it wont slip off. With superglue it's much easier since it won't allow scion to move what's main "problem" when using rubber bands. When you learn it, it's very easy tek. Plants do fine under any light or windowsill, just don't give direct sun. Heating and illuminating them with CFL lights is my way to do grafts and cause littlebit more heat to top of graft. So they callous fast. So far no failures what comes to scions attach to stock. I stop using superglue since I learned more how to use rubber bands without accidentally cause those rubber bands force scion to slip off. I have experience with bad rubber bands and it's not good to see few grafts have got rubber band snap off and some of them snap broken so violently, they cause scion to drop off as well.

And that crest graft at picture was harder to use rubber bands because scion had height and pressure had to be adjusted just to right spot not to cause scion turn to wrong way by rubber bands.

You can "adjust" them when they are attached by releasing them from below the container. So you can adjust the pressure from 4 directions with rubber bands. Just make sure they are not bad quality or old because they may snap broken too easy. I usually test them with my hands and spread so much I can and if it takes it, it's good.. Even new rubber bands may have bad ones there so test them before you use them.

Square pot helps but round pot is ok as well. With round pot you can adjust more accurate the pressure by moving rubber bands from bottom of top. By not touching the scion. You can see small movement of scion(but not bad way) when you move rubber bands below tight it or loose it from certain direction to get pressure just to rightt spot. Use one hand you push button to it's place, another hand with two fingers you can "lift off" the rubber band what's under the pot and make sure it won't move away fom there and expand it with fingers and then move it above scion, keeping your fingers as "edge" for rubber band and then slowly release rubber band and keep your fingers still controlling the rubber band by moving fingers towards stock and rubber bands attach to edge of pot and then you are ok and can adjust it fast to cause pressure to good spot. You would want to use superglue first to lean how to plant rubber band with high pressure without causing much at all scion movement. It's not easy at first times without superglue spots add to keep scion on it's place.

So learn using rubber bands first by using small amount of superglue to keep scion still. Later on you can forgot superglue when you manage to get rubber band properly without problems. You have to pay attention to many things at first:
-Will rubber band stay under the pot when you lift it?
-Where exactly the pressure comes when you release your fingers, so be ready to adjust it fast correctly?
-Moving first rubber band over scion without causing rubber band release it self from base and without causing rubber band force scion off from stock.

And make sure both sides have same amount of pressure approx, you can feel it with your fingers. Then adjust pressure from bottom of container to have both sides as much pressure, and then move graft to recover.

I have used typically 2 rubber bands. Sometimes I have done it with one by "twist" it above scion and then add back to base of pot but it's very hard to do. And sometimes I have used 3-4 rubber bands if I have round pot. With one you can get pressure from 4 directions but it's really not so easy to twist it above scion and make sure scion don't move when you pull rubber band down again. I have just tested it but it's unecessary. Two rubber bands and square pot have been so far best way to use and keep rubber bands at right place. And they are easy to adjust pressure to correct spot..

You need to focus many things at same time with first rubber band without superglue so it may be easier to practice with superglue. I did many times these grafts with superglue but no need it anymore since I realize how I can add rubber band. But it's always as tricky as first time when I do it without superglue used to keep scion on. Round clay pots will do as well but rubber bands slip off from bottom of pot very easy and it may cause shaking what drop the scion off. Also they behave different against clay pot than plastic pot. Round plastic pots with lots of drainage holes at bottom works well.. They have similar spots prevent rubber band move anywhere at base of pot. Also square pots have those drainage holes helps rubber band stay on it's place.

But it's not rocket science and adjusting pressure with rubber bands is easy to learn by doing it.. Rubber bands may cause pressure to one direction too much so it's easier to "release" it a bit from base of container so you can see when pressure it at right spot. :eskimokiss:

I hope this helps, I just don't know how I explain it better, but first rubber band "release" by doing it slowly is always the hardest one. So drops of superglue here or there doesn't matter and in fact it increases success persentage much. So no need to adjust and be so accurate with rubber bands with strong pressure. Too loose rubber bands fail grafts easier since they don't give enough pressure, but some does well even with loose rubber bands.

I suggest still to use wide and relatively strong rubber bands. But obviously, not too strong. If it's hard to get above scion and feels very strong, then it's too strong rubber band. You should be able to lift and expand rubber band with two fingers above scion. If it's hard to even lift and expand it above scion between your fingers, it's too strong and harder to use.

Sometimes I use very smooth and loose rubber band first, then I add stronger ones. But it's situational, typically I don't need to do it.

Edited by intelligentlife (04/02/15 01:46 AM)

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Offlinekactus.brand.g
Registered: 08/22/14
Posts: 6,886
Last seen: 7 years, 2 months
Re: GL [Re: intelligentlife]
    #21491306 - 04/02/15 08:03 AM (9 years, 1 month ago)

Ok,I now know with what all I've read from you ineintelligentlife,that all my future grafts will be success stories:cool:
Thanks man:thumbup:

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Invisible2shoes
The anti-agar
Male


Registered: 04/07/11
Posts: 3,124
Loc: Not in a SAB Flag
Re: GL [Re: kactus.brand.g]
    #21491987 - 04/02/15 11:30 AM (9 years, 1 month ago)

I'm 3 for 3 on grafts, I did almost have one die but its coming back...:shrug: straight to Pedro..

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Offlinekactus.brand.g
Registered: 08/22/14
Posts: 6,886
Last seen: 7 years, 2 months
Re: GL [Re: 2shoes]
    #21492361 - 04/02/15 01:17 PM (9 years, 1 month ago)

Quote:

newbie2shoes said:
I'm 3 for 3 on grafts, I did almost have one die but its coming back...:shrug: straight to Pedro..




That's great man!
I've just never had any real desire to try grafting,so I really didn't care either way.
Now,I think it's something I would like to learn how to do properly so,there ya go:cool:

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Invisible2shoes
The anti-agar
Male


Registered: 04/07/11
Posts: 3,124
Loc: Not in a SAB Flag
Re: GL [Re: kactus.brand.g]
    #21492368 - 04/02/15 01:18 PM (9 years, 1 month ago)

I'd vote skipping the Peres and go straight for tricks as stock..:thumbup:

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Offlinekactus.brand.g
Registered: 08/22/14
Posts: 6,886
Last seen: 7 years, 2 months
Re: GL [Re: 2shoes]
    #21492375 - 04/02/15 01:20 PM (9 years, 1 month ago)

Quote:

newbie2shoes said:
I'd vote skipping the Peres and go straight for tricks as stock..:thumbup:




Yeah,I know I'd never be able to graft to one of those:lol:
And I just grow my pereskiopsis solely for looks.

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