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eatyualive said:
strainers! wire mesh not the holes.

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I have the same two strainers

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eatyualive said:
oh i forgot, ob horse gloves for sab work! arm length.

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mushpunx said:
Hey how do you set up your lids like that, what size hole do you like?

You cut the filters to nickle size and attach to the top or the underside of the lid, and what sort of adheasive, silicone? And how long do they hold up?

I use the SFDs over the lid and under the band, but its too expensive I mostly double layer white craft felt.

Since Im using bags now I can afford better lids for my grain masters, might as well upgrade to proper lids too. The type of felt I have works well though better than poly

Thanks!

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2 different ways.  One way for LC's, and another for grain jars.  LC lids are currently set up with the filtration device placed off to one side of the media vessel closure.  The injection port to the opposite side. 

The hole for the injection port was generated using a 1/2 inch paddle bit.  Those half inch, large, red ports are available for a 85 cents a piece from Shroom Supply.
http://www.shroomsupply.com/lab-supplies/super-heavy-duty-injection-ports

The hole for the Whatman filters are drilled using 5/16th inch drill bit.  Whatman filters are adhered to the pre-sanded closure device with blue RTV silicone.  I use blue because blue is the color cubensis turn after you pick them sometimes.  The Whatman filters I use are sourced at the link provided below for $2.50 each.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/331437830002?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT



Usually use a triple layer of parafilm wrapped around where the threads of the vessel meet the vessel closure, but will be making the switch to rubber gaskets just as soon as they arrive to the PO box. 

For grain jars, I drill 3 5/64th inch hole is a diamond cluster and place one disk cut down to the size of a nickel, adhering the disk to the top of the pre-sanded vessel closure over to the side. 





The reason the filters are placed to the side is just in case, for whatever reason, the lids need to be fitted with a self healing injection port. 

As far as how long these lids last, the answer is a lifetime.  Got a few lids like this gifted to me 5 years ago by user myco.alchemist.  They are still in use today.  After a thousand runs through the sterilizer, no warping. 

Heavy duty injenction ports are used again in LC lid modifications.  The reason injection ports for LC's are used again is due to the addition of the LC gun into the liquid culturing tool arsenal.  The LC gun has a long aspiration needle that goes into an injection port and down into the media.  The aspiration needle that came with the gun is long enough to reach the bottom of a quart jar.  No tilt LC lid style.  The LC gun makes it possible to go from using wide mouth media vessels to regular mouth too, because, when using the LC gun, LC's won't have to be opened to aspire the culture with a syringe.  The extra opening space isn't needed either, because you're not reaching down into the media with a needle to get culture.  The repeated opening and closing of the LC media vessel is a vector for contams.  The wider the opening to a media vessel, the more of an opening contams have to enter our sterile mediums, as well.  Regular mouth jars over wide mouth jars for media vessel utilization in this hobby when ever possible, Fuck The World!

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mushpunx said:
Hey how do you set up your lids like that, what size hole do you like?

You cut the filters to nickle size and attach to the top or the underside of the lid, and what sort of adheasive, silicone? And how long do they hold up?

I use the SFDs over the lid and under the band, but its too expensive I mostly double layer white craft felt.

Since Im using bags now I can afford better lids for my grain masters, might as well upgrade to proper lids too. The type of felt I have works well though better than poly

Thanks!

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mushpunx said:
Thanks Ham awesome post!!

Around here you can but 8 packs of the Ball plastic mason jar lids in packs of 8 for a couple bucks, I dont know if they are autoclaveable though

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