Nice setup! nice shrooms!

i wanna be just like you!

you think that same casing/substrate would work just as well with Treasure Coast, or PES Hawaiian Race?

Oh, one more thing. How do you get humidity?

Thanks.

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Watch out boyz 'n girlz, 4 I B eatin your squirelz!!!!

2/3 cup whole brown rice
2/3 cup whole grain quinoa
1/4 cup crushed finch seed
1/8 cup flax meal
1 cup vermiculite
2 cups water.

Mix both quinoa and brown rice with 2 cups water, and place in a pot on the stove top. Bring to a boil and immeadiately turn heat down low so it barely boils. Let this boil for 15 min. until the water is alomst gone. Then mix with the dry ingrediants and fill jars using the regular PF tek.

To answer your other questions, yes this will work just the same with the tressure coast strain cubensis. It will work with any cubensis strain.

About the hummidity question, casings don't need a secondary humidification source. The moisture in the casing is all it needs. If you use a container tall enough to case and fruit in, thats all you need. I don't even seal the top of my container. I set the lid on loose to allow gas exchange. Alot of people over humidify their casings. It causes mushrooms to grow excessivly tall(trying to grow above the built up co2) and often causes the stems to twist and weaken in which case the mushrooms fall over in very direction. I've also found over humidified mushrooms to be less potent.

The Lizard,

[This message has been edited by Lizard King (edited June 19, 2000).]

As for potency its like all other cubensis. I know many say that its not a potent strain, but they just aren't doing something right, or maybe they're paticular strain sucks. I've grown both PF classic and Equador, the pontency was no different. I like to eat about 3-4 grams of each. They both do the same thing to me at the same dosage.

The Lizard,

How much substrate did you use on the taller tub? Did you mix your sub. up in 1/2 pint jars, pint jars, or what?

Just wondering...

GREAT JOB LIZARD KING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

did you just lay the mycelium directly on the bottom of your container??? or is there vermiculite??
and how many cakes did you casing in that one big container???

they look so delicious..DROOL****=P
100+ shrooms?????

-shinra..

To answer your other question, yes, regular brf and verm cakes will work just the same. I'm not sure what jiffy mix is, so I cant say it'll work. If its just a potting soil with added peat, verm, perlite etc... It should work fine.

chillin, I didn't keep the light from the side. Usually I'll use an opaque container so that I don't get pins from the edges of the casig, but this time I was lazy and said screw it. It works either way. It just sucks using a clear container because you'll get full developed mushrooms that never surface. They just grow along the sides where its a bitch to pick them.

The Lizard,

can yall belive the lakers pulled it off shaq mvp?? koybe is not smart enough to be as dominant as mike arrrr

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Look at http://novenove.homepage.com/Honeytek.html for the liquidmycelium honeytek

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Look at http://novenove.homepage.com/Honeytek.html for the liquidmycelium honeytek

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Baldy

Cakes were crumbled and cased with a potting soil mix(some kind of mix that has perlite, verm, and peat premixed into it)

The casing tub was placed ontop of a dresser with a lamp next to it. For the first 3 days I left the lamp turned off. Then I started a 12 on 12 off light cycle.

While I waited for pinning to occur, I allowed plenty of gas exchange(fanning 5-10 times a day depending on my schedule) This was to prevent overlay of the casing. This went on for 4 days.

Once pin set occured(day 7 postcasing), I cut back on the fanning(only 2-3 times a day) so that the humidity raises and fattens up the pins. Once the pins are an inch or so tall, I start fanning more often again so that the mushrooms don't grow to tall. This is how you get proportionaly correct mushrooms Then I harvest when they break their viels.

Seriously though, its hard to explain when to fan, but its such an important part of the process. You may not need to fan as much, or you may need to fan more often. It all depends on distance and temp of the light source, room temp, light cycle, etc... These factors greatly influence humidity in the terrarium. To learn proper gas exchange is something you learn after trial an error. Just remember plenty of air exchange is good, not bad. If things start to look dry, seal up your terrarium and quit fanning.

The Lizard,

Chillin, I used a regular 10cc spore syringe that I made my self. Each jar was supper inoculated with 3-4cc's of inoculant. Jars finished in 7 days and I let em go for 3 more to make sure the center was colonized.

I've never done any work with any of my strain(Yes I know I need to) I just haven't got into the whole agar thing that much yet. The next monster I fruit though, will be cloned. After learning that mass spore inoculated cakes only have a fruitable mass of about 1/3 to 2/3 of the cake, I decided I better get to know my agar. I know how to use agar, and I have before. I'm just not comfortable with the whole process yet(you know, I don't know the tricks of the trade that make things go smoothly)

And BaldCuban, yes your wasting your time with a humidifier(IMO) unless your fruiting cakes, in which case it still isn't neccesary. Perlite works fine. As for casings, it is my opinion that they should never recieve a secondary humidification source. It is much more easy to be consistant when relying on the the casing for moisture. This isn't to say that humidifiers can't be consistant, its just not as easy.

The Lizard,

Very similar to the setup I use and it works equally as well.

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-From a registered Mad Scientist

"From a certain point of view"
-Jedi Master Obiwan Kenobi (also a Mad Scientist tm)

VisitThe Donkey!-just behave

Mycofile, Thanks for the tip. Your the one that got me thinking about how important agar work is for the serious cultivator. I read a few of your post at DD about peroxide agar and decided I would clone the next monster I fruit. I have the agar and all the other nessecary ingrediants, I just need to get my lazy ass in gear and start cooking and pouring

MuffinBear, I used a bottom layer 50/50 mix of verm and soil then crumbled substrate and cased ontop of that with my potting soil mix. The mix I used this time is new to me. I found it a Ace hardware. Its a mix of mostly soil with a little added verm, perlite, and peat.

About your other question, the large grade vermiculite is best for casing(IMO) The horticulture grade(fine grade) is best used in your substrate jars.

The Lizard,

-snarf

To PappaKaps, The bottome layer of my casing varies from casing to casing. I usually lay down an inch or so of regular 50/50 mix in the bottom. Sometimes I mix up more than I need and lay down 2 inches, it all depends. For the top layer I never case over 1/2" deep. Anywhere between 1/4" and 1/2" is what I preffer.

bigmanchu, I usually get 3 flushes total out of a casing this size. It will still produce a few fruits after that, just not that many. After the third flush I bury the casing in the backyard and hope for the best.

Snarf, contamination is rarely a problem before the third flush. If I do spot green mold, I'll just move the casing outdoors and let mother nature do the rest. Usually it will clear up and fruit for me.

About your other question, no, I do not pasteurize or sterilize my casings. Its not nessecary. The only time I pasteurize is when dealing with dung, straw, or compost.

The Lizard,

You don't sterlize your casign at all? Just take it strait from the bag?

-snarf

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"If I catch ya wit ya draws down I'ma do ya"......Tec-9

I think something needs to be pointed out here. Your stating casings do not need secondary humidification such as a humidifier or perlite. That is a pretty bold statement.
In your small setup I can see where the casing would produce enough humidity in there that is probably at least around 80% which is fine to get them to fruit.
In a larger setup, a secondary source of humidity is a must. You would not be able to achieve high humidity from the casings alone.

When my friend dog scoobie use to grow indoors in small 10 gallon and 20 gallon terraniums he used perlite/water, which worked great. But he also put some small holes in the lid with a filter disc on them to give air exchange.
The times he tried other humidifiers and foggers, the casings would get to saturated. Perlite was more then enough.
Then when scooby went on to larger setups of greenhouses, a humidifier was an absolute must. The times he would forget to refil the humidifier with water for day or so, the humidity would drop way down to 50% or so and the casings could quickly dry out this way.

But, in a small setup like this, you can get away without humidity. I have seen some pics of someone else that got a some nice fruitings like this in a small container with no perlite. Although, personally I recommend the perlite/water.

Anyway, nice little setup and flush there LK.

-peace- www.thehawkseye.com

[This message has been edited by Ryche Hawk (edited October 06, 2000).]

Why the hell was this ol thread pulled back up anyway? Just wondering?

The Lizard,

The Lizard,

I would hardly would call them skrony and weak. These grew over a foot tall with solid thick stems, and this was the 2nd flush. Here is the same mushrooms as above harvested.

BTW LK.. I changed my post above, it was suppose to say "Anyway, NICE little setup and flush there LK."
Instead of "little setup and flush there LK"
Wasnt trying to dis you.

-peace- www.thehawkseye.com

[This message has been edited by Ryche Hawk (edited October 06, 2000).]

Oh well, back to the drawing boards.

The Lizard,

Late