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Look at http://novenove.homepage.com/Honeytek.html for the liquidmycelium honeytek

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Baldy

Cakes were crumbled and cased with a potting soil mix(some kind of mix that has perlite, verm, and peat premixed into it)

The casing tub was placed ontop of a dresser with a lamp next to it. For the first 3 days I left the lamp turned off. Then I started a 12 on 12 off light cycle.

While I waited for pinning to occur, I allowed plenty of gas exchange(fanning 5-10 times a day depending on my schedule) This was to prevent overlay of the casing. This went on for 4 days.

Once pin set occured(day 7 postcasing), I cut back on the fanning(only 2-3 times a day) so that the humidity raises and fattens up the pins. Once the pins are an inch or so tall, I start fanning more often again so that the mushrooms don't grow to tall. This is how you get proportionaly correct mushrooms Then I harvest when they break their viels.

Seriously though, its hard to explain when to fan, but its such an important part of the process. You may not need to fan as much, or you may need to fan more often. It all depends on distance and temp of the light source, room temp, light cycle, etc... These factors greatly influence humidity in the terrarium. To learn proper gas exchange is something you learn after trial an error. Just remember plenty of air exchange is good, not bad. If things start to look dry, seal up your terrarium and quit fanning.

The Lizard,

Chillin, I used a regular 10cc spore syringe that I made my self. Each jar was supper inoculated with 3-4cc's of inoculant. Jars finished in 7 days and I let em go for 3 more to make sure the center was colonized.

I've never done any work with any of my strain(Yes I know I need to) I just haven't got into the whole agar thing that much yet. The next monster I fruit though, will be cloned. After learning that mass spore inoculated cakes only have a fruitable mass of about 1/3 to 2/3 of the cake, I decided I better get to know my agar. I know how to use agar, and I have before. I'm just not comfortable with the whole process yet(you know, I don't know the tricks of the trade that make things go smoothly)

And BaldCuban, yes your wasting your time with a humidifier(IMO) unless your fruiting cakes, in which case it still isn't neccesary. Perlite works fine. As for casings, it is my opinion that they should never recieve a secondary humidification source. It is much more easy to be consistant when relying on the the casing for moisture. This isn't to say that humidifiers can't be consistant, its just not as easy.

The Lizard,

Very similar to the setup I use and it works equally as well.

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-From a registered Mad Scientist

"From a certain point of view"
-Jedi Master Obiwan Kenobi (also a Mad Scientist tm)

VisitThe Donkey!-just behave

Mycofile, Thanks for the tip. Your the one that got me thinking about how important agar work is for the serious cultivator. I read a few of your post at DD about peroxide agar and decided I would clone the next monster I fruit. I have the agar and all the other nessecary ingrediants, I just need to get my lazy ass in gear and start cooking and pouring

MuffinBear, I used a bottom layer 50/50 mix of verm and soil then crumbled substrate and cased ontop of that with my potting soil mix. The mix I used this time is new to me. I found it a Ace hardware. Its a mix of mostly soil with a little added verm, perlite, and peat.

About your other question, the large grade vermiculite is best for casing(IMO) The horticulture grade(fine grade) is best used in your substrate jars.

The Lizard,

-snarf

To PappaKaps, The bottome layer of my casing varies from casing to casing. I usually lay down an inch or so of regular 50/50 mix in the bottom. Sometimes I mix up more than I need and lay down 2 inches, it all depends. For the top layer I never case over 1/2" deep. Anywhere between 1/4" and 1/2" is what I preffer.

bigmanchu, I usually get 3 flushes total out of a casing this size. It will still produce a few fruits after that, just not that many. After the third flush I bury the casing in the backyard and hope for the best.

Snarf, contamination is rarely a problem before the third flush. If I do spot green mold, I'll just move the casing outdoors and let mother nature do the rest. Usually it will clear up and fruit for me.

About your other question, no, I do not pasteurize or sterilize my casings. Its not nessecary. The only time I pasteurize is when dealing with dung, straw, or compost.

The Lizard,

You don't sterlize your casign at all? Just take it strait from the bag?

-snarf