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InvisibleSpitballJedi
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Re: How I do Rye Berry Prep [Re: Jaboka]
    #22369424 - 10/12/15 05:19 PM (8 years, 5 months ago)

I leave them in the strainer to dry. I shake them around a few times. You'll noyice the grains on top drying, but the ones underneath dry slower. Shaking them around allows the ones underneath to have a chance to dry out.


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InvisibleLocN9ne
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Re: How I do Rye Berry Prep [Re: SpitballJedi]
    #22369636 - 10/12/15 06:03 PM (8 years, 5 months ago)

Because of the hard boil before you strain them they will be steaming... just shake them vigorously in your original pot every couple of minutes, they will steam dry very quickly.


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Invisibleblackdust
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Re: How I do Rye Berry Prep [Re: LocN9ne]
    #22372712 - 10/13/15 10:58 AM (8 years, 5 months ago)

Rye is so amazing
so easy to prep!!!!!!!
i need to get my ass to whole foods

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OfflineBigGreenMat
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Re: How I do Rye Berry Prep [Re: blackdust]
    #22565952 - 11/23/15 10:43 PM (8 years, 4 months ago)

How do you get 7 quart jars 3/4 full from just 2 quarts?  I follow exactly the same prep and get 5 at maximum, usually less.  I do like 18 hours of soak and a solid 10 minutes of full boil.  I use organic rye berries from Whole Foods.

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OfflinetaGyo
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Re: How I do Rye Berry Prep [Re: BigGreenMat]
    #22566026 - 11/23/15 11:11 PM (8 years, 4 months ago)

Your math is right on IMO, that's pretty much what I get with oats. 1 full qt of unsaturated grains = 2 and change of prepped grain.


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OfflineKramer Chids
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Re: How I do Rye Berry Prep [Re: taGyo]
    #22566063 - 11/23/15 11:22 PM (8 years, 4 months ago)

Thank you for the post. I will be trying this.

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InvisibleSpitballJedi
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Re: How I do Rye Berry Prep [Re: Kramer Chids]
    #22566797 - 11/24/15 07:46 AM (8 years, 4 months ago)

I also get organic rye berries from Whole Foods.

I boil them until the vast majority are fully saturated. I don't use a timer, I go by appearance. It may be that mine are more plump when they go in the jars or it could be the grain source is different so the grain is a different size even though they come from the same store.

I can't count the number of times I've done this method. Different bags of grain seem to fill the jars up slightly different, but not vastly, at least in my experience.

Just add more grain next time or go ahead and PC those and start a small batch to make up the difference for this grow.

Honestly, I switched to whole oats because they are so much cheaper and easier.


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Invisibleblindingleaf
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Re: How I do Rye Berry Prep [Re: SpitballJedi]
    #22566802 - 11/24/15 07:49 AM (8 years, 4 months ago)

:whathesaid:

i just keep extra grains in the fridge, and add them to next batch.


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OfflinetaGyo
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Re: How I do Rye Berry Prep [Re: blindingleaf]
    #22566988 - 11/24/15 08:40 AM (8 years, 4 months ago)

How long can you store them in the fridge?


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Re: How I do Rye Berry Prep [Re: taGyo]
    #22567144 - 11/24/15 09:30 AM (8 years, 4 months ago)

at least a week, i've even done 2 weeks.  sometimes they are a little dried out.


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Offlinejcbowling1985
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Re: How I do Rye Berry Prep [Re: SpitballJedi]
    #22664009 - 12/16/15 05:07 PM (8 years, 3 months ago)

Someone has decided they want to do a small run so I'm going to help them out personally. I'm going to reuse old information to reflect on some of the details that were already mentioned except I'm going to add a bit more detail for clarity. This way the do and do nots are a bit clearer.

Note: everyone has their own technique on how they may prefer to do something but this is what worked for me. I'm not saying anyone else is wrong. I'm just sharing what worked for me after many experimental runs. For those who ha e followed this blog knows how far I came into becoming the cultivator I am today. I'm hoping people still share their input on any tweets that may make this process even better.


Supplies: 25 gallon tub, 2 strainers (the bigger the better), 1 pot to boil water in, 6-7 1 pint mason jars (wide mouth), ground up Calcium or gypsum board, aluminum foil. Lighter or tourch  And choose  Either Micro disks, tyvek with tape or better yet drill holes in the lid and fill with Polyfill.

Shower and dress into clean cloths before doing this work. You don't have to be naked lol.


1) decide if you are going to use Micro disks, tyvek or drill 5/8 inch holes and stuff hole with polyfill
    I recommend Micro disks but now I prefer drilling one 5/8-3/4inch hole on the top of every lid and plugging the hole with polyfill. If you choose to use tyvek, make sure the letters face up and after you inoculate you must tape where the needle pierced through.

For the micro disk and the tyvek you want to place this ontop of  the metal lid with the 5/8inch hole but under the threaded metal. Essentially the tyvek or Micro disk goes inbetween the lid and the threaded fastener. For all the methods listed in step 1 I recommend you drilling a 5/8" or up to a 3/4"  hole. Actually you need to drill a hole in the lid for any material you choose. Remember the tyvek must face up and if you are using tyvek use micro tape to cover the little holes after you inoculate in step 9. Tyvek is the last method I recommend. Micro disks is te best method but polyfill is almost as equivalent to a micro disk.

2) Wash your rye seed in a 25 gallon plastic tub. It's nice if you can do this outside next to a garden hose but if not use your shower.  Use a few cups more of rye seed than you need because there will be some loss when draining out the dirty water. Use a 25 gallon plastic tub and fill with water. With the desired amount of seeds on the bottom of the tub while the tub is full of water, use your hands to lift the seeds and watch the seeds quickly settle while all the dirt and nasty crap settle much slower. Wait for the seeds to settle and then quickly poor out all the dirty water. Repeat this process until the water is practically clear. This is also a good time to rub the seeds together to remove any skin remaining on the seeds. This will decrease any chance of your final product of being contaminated.



3) once the seeds are washed. We want to soak the seeds. This allows the mycelium to spread faster but the wetter it is the more prone it is to contamination. Add enough water to cover the top of the washed seeds before adding in grinded  up calcium pellets or the gray part in a piece of gypsum board. If you can find powder calcium that works great too.  Mix the seeds and calcium together. This is where it  becomes the debateable on how long you should soak seeds for.  24 hrs is the longest you want to soak for and 4 hrs is the least amount of time you would like to soak your seeds. n the summer soak for less time and in the winter you want to soak a little longer but never longer than 24 hrs! I find that seeds will tend to germinate in 2-3 days. Once a seed germinates or opens its no longer a seed and the organic matter inside the seed will contaminate all your jars. Seeds cost almost as much as your spores so do yourself a favor and soak for 8-12 hrs indoors so it does not matter if it's summer or winter, assuming most houses are at about 68-79 degrees year round. If you're going to do step 4 I suggest soaking for a little less time because the longer you soak for the softer your seed is going to be and the closer it's to germinating.


Picture of grounded up gypsum board which is calcium. Calcium also prevents the seeds from stick to each other and makes it easier to shake your jars when that time comes later.


4) this step is optional but highly recommended but you must be careful. Many people say boil the seeds for 10 minutes but don't tell you want to make sure none of your seeds pop open. If they pop you must start over (popping causes starchy substrates and slower mycelium growth which promotes contamination). I suggest bringing a pot of water up to a simmer (not a boil, if the seeds go from cold to hot to fast they will burst)  first.



then add all your seeds to the water as depicted below.



Be ready to turn off the water as soon the water is up to a boil (stir slowly the entire time).

It does not hurt to be extra cautious which you can turn the pot off after 3 minutes and remove the seeds before the water even boils. When working with many seeds some seeds get over cooked at the bottom and burst. Just be safe and stop after 5 minutes since you are starting this process from a simmer. I  make the mistake of waiting for the water to boil and not stirring because I'm assuming it's not boiling yet. Trust me, the seeds at the bottom are begging to move. Remember this step is optional but will help in making a perfect environment for your mycelium to grow. Now that 5 minutes are up and you have been stirring the entire time you want to dump everything into your two strainers. You now have an empty pot and 2 strainers full of hot steamy seeds. Pour one of the seeds resting in one of the strainers at a time back and four between the empty pot and the strainer to allow all the steam to evaporate off the seeds. Keep doing this until you can touch the seeds with the palm of your hand without them sticking to you.  A little sticking is okay but you want the seeds to be able to just fall with you needing to shake your hand. Another method of checking your seeds is by taking a small sample of your seed and place them on a peice of toilet paper for 15 seconds. If the paper looks like it did not absorb any water the. Your seeds are ready to use in the next step.


Above is a pic showing a method of how to induce evaporation of water off your seeds after boiling. Under some circumstances you may not be able to get the seeds to dry as much as you would like. This problem occurs on cold days when natural temperature don't permit evaporation. I suggest using an oven and don't allow the temp to go above 110 as there is no need for it. The point is you want just enough heat to promote evaporation of water off the surface of the husks of the seed without taking away the water the seed has already absorbed.



Above is a picture showing how I made sure the seeds became relatively dry.




Pick either step 5a  or step 5b depending if you are working with spores or colonized seeds (cloning).

5a) fill the desired amount of rye seed into each jar. If you are working with spores you want to only fill each jar half way ( I'll mention why later).  The less seeds you put into each jar the faster the jar can fully colonize. You want the jar to fully colonize before the rye seed contaminates your jar.  Once the jar is fully colonized the mycelium can fight off contaminates a little easier. It's risky to have more.


Notice it does not matter if the rye is exposed to the open air. Don't worry because when you put the jars in the pressure cooker that will be when you are sterilizing the grain.

5b) If you are working with jars that are already fully colonized then you want to fill your jars 1/2 way again. But don't worry because after you pressure cook these seeds you are going to add about a 1/4 jar of colonized seeds to each jar. But these jars will colonize so much faster.

6) close the lid on each jar with the metal flap places upside down to allow for more airflow during the pressure cook. You also want to not righted the lid to tightly. Then cover each jar with aluminum foil.



Lids are faced up...if you see the shiny side up you oopsed, just flip the lid.
Don't forget to cover each jar with aluminum before placing in Pressure cooker. If you forget you will ruin your water content ratio inside your jars.

7) add as much water as you can into your pressure cooker so that after you place the jars into the pressure cooker the jars rest at the bottom and don't float around. Make sure to insert the boing plate on the bottom of the pot so your jars don't crack. You want to pressure cook these for an hour at 30psi. Start your timer once the pressure is at 15psi. It's okay if you go an hr 15min or hr30 min but you don't want your pressure cooker to run dry or run out of water. If this happens you will burn your seeds and then you must start all over again. I've tried using seeds that were slightly over done and they have never worked. Don't waste your time. I know it cost 50 dollars for 25 lbs of rye seed but your time and the cost of the syringes is not worth wasting. I'm telling you from my experimental experience that it's a horrible idea.


Note: you want the color of the seeds to be almost as light in color as after you just finished soaking them. They may glow in color a bit more but they should not become darker.


8) let the jars cool down. I'm sure you are tired at this point. If so then let the jars cool down in the pressure cooker and look forward to innoculating or cloning the next day.  If you are not tired and are ready to go the. Open the pressure cooker and take out the jars and place them 4 inches away from each other until their core temperature is less than 80 degrees. Any hotter and the pores will die and if you are cloning it might be a little forgiving up to 85 degrees but you are better off being patient.

9) great now the jars are cool enough for inoculation. Use the lighter or tourch to disinfect the needle. Use about .5 of a CC and up to 1 cc per jar. Every time you pull the needle out you want to disinfect the needle again. Inject the selected cc in a circular path working from center out until you have used the desired amount. To many cc will make your jars to set and with promote bacterial growth. Less is better but to little and you'll just be waiting a lite bit longer but it's okay.  Remember if you used tyvek to tape the injection holes with micro tape which is found in the first aid section of your CVS.


Above is an example of what your syringes may look like.

10) place jars in a cool area in your home and wait a week before seeing some growth. DONT SHAKE YOUR JARS YET. Wait until the top layer is densely populated with mycelium. What you may like to do is tap your jars to ensure that the seeds are not binding together. After 10-14 days give your jars a little shake. When I say a little I mean just enough so the seeds covered in mycelium ha e not spread to far from their precously neighboring seeds that are colonized. We don't want toes around with how the mycelium duplicates.

11) don't let the mycelium block up in to big of a chunk. It can be hard to break those chunks up and you will almost believe that you will break your jars of you don't maintain a loose environment. No need to be over cautious. Just don't forget about them for more than 4 days without shaking.

12) if you used step 5a you can repeat steps 1-4 and get ready to clone your mycelium.
13) for cloning you really want to work under a hood and you want to disinfect everything around you and even the tops of the jars. You will take a jar that's fully colonized and put a little bit of the colonized rye into each jar in step 9. Don't open the freshly pressurized jars until you are ready to pour the colonized rye seed. It's nice if you have two people doing this but one person can do it. With two people you can reduce the chance of contamination so much easier.

Edited by jcbowling1985 (12/25/15 09:28 AM)

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OfflineShroom_Goddess
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Re: How I do Rye Berry Prep [Re: jerrylove]
    #23498052 - 08/01/16 10:41 AM (7 years, 7 months ago)

I know this is old.. But do you let the grains drain simply in a strainer, or is it better to lay them all single-layered onto a towel? Or would that get them too dry?


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OfflineJNocturnal
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Re: How I do Rye Berry Prep [Re: SpitballJedi]
    #24252745 - 04/17/17 08:18 PM (6 years, 11 months ago)

What is the purpose of gypsum?

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Invisiblehamloaf
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Re: How I do Rye Berry Prep [Re: JNocturnal]
    #24252811 - 04/17/17 08:46 PM (6 years, 11 months ago)

Adds calcium and sulfate to the mushrooms which are essential minerals for mushrooms and mycelium, and helps in over all robustness of fruit.  Gypsum can be added to any stage of growth.  When adding gypsum to grains, not only does it add calcium and sulfate to the grain spawn, but it also helps so the grains don't clump together after being sterilized.


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Invisiblemynakedrat
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Re: How I do Rye Berry Prep [Re: hamloaf]
    #24252826 - 04/17/17 08:49 PM (6 years, 11 months ago)

But a lot of people don't even use it right?

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Invisiblewowimflabbergasted
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Re: How I do Rye Berry Prep [Re: mynakedrat]
    #24252974 - 04/17/17 09:36 PM (6 years, 11 months ago)

Quote:

Picture of grounded up gypsum board which is calcium. Calcium also prevents the seeds from stick to each other and makes it easier to shake your jars when that time comes later.




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OfflineMostaphobia
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Re: How I do Rye Berry Prep [Re: wowimflabbergasted]
    #24323328 - 05/16/17 06:01 AM (6 years, 10 months ago)

I'm a newbie and got a question :laugh:
So when you fill the jars with the prepared grains, you don't add any vermiculite or something else? so just fill the jars with the prepared grains, pc the jars, cool down then they're ready for the spores?
Cheers

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OfflineGrimCoffee
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Re: How I do Rye Berry Prep [Re: SpitballJedi]
    #24484290 - 07/15/17 01:36 AM (6 years, 8 months ago)

I ended up getting rye jars from out grow but I do want to start from the very beginning next time.

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Invisiblewowimflabbergasted
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Re: How I do Rye Berry Prep [Re: GrimCoffee]
    #24485105 - 07/15/17 01:05 PM (6 years, 8 months ago)

Do it. You'll wonder why you ever bought pre-made rye jars.


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Offlineozan
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Re: How I do Rye Berry Prep [Re: Mostaphobia]
    #24578288 - 08/25/17 04:59 AM (6 years, 7 months ago)

no vermiculate is involved at all

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