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OfflinetheMallacht
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Mallacht Talks Insects & Insecticides In Indoor Grow Environments - A (Mostly) Organic Method * 3
    #19587208 - 02/18/14 08:45 PM (9 years, 11 months ago)

Alright guys, I've decided that since I have all of this time on my hands lately, I'm going to do a series of these "Mallacht Talks..." Tek threads on various topics in which I have something to offer the community. This is definitely one of them that I have learned both the hard way, and through tireless research and horticulture classes throughout the years.

***NOTE: I will be keeping this as organic as possible, always making the distinction when a spray is more dangerous than organic***

I will be going over a few common insects that the indoor grower tends to be plagued with, as well as a method that IME, will make it so you will never see an insect in your indoor environment again. Other growers I know have used this method and also haven't seen insects in their indoor environments in years.


Spider Mites                 

Spider mites are actually a member of the arachnid family, and we all know how tough spiders can be. Well, these little bastards are essentially spiders that, instead of being solitary, decide to live in little plant-devouring packs (colonies).

The first stage is what is called "leaf stipling". Here is what that looks like:



The second stage, or late stage mites is when they begin to produce webbing, like this:



Keep in mind it might not necessarily be this bad, but if you see webbing at all deep inside your plant canopy, it's best to check it out by flipping the leaf over and checking the bottom of it. This is usually where the spider mites will be, until they've established a full on colony in which case they'll be everywhere; walking across the leaves, almost like they're walking across a tight rope. Like this picture in which a couple of Red Spotted Spider Mites been blown up to exaggerate this point:



The Red Spotted Spider Mite is the most common IME, and most mites in general will usually be found in hot, dry places. So usually close to your lights, high up in the plant canopy where it's warm.

My Recommendations For Insecticides:
  • Pyrethrin based product - I prefer "Doktor Doom Spider Mite Knockout" because it has a high concentration of Pyrethrins at 0.20% There are higher concentrations out there but usually they are found in a fogger (like Pyrethrum TR). This can be used for desperate measures as well.

  • Azamax (Azadirectin) - This is an extract of Neem oil. They basically figured out exactly what it was in Neem oil that insects hate so much and they extracted that. It will only do major damage to mites at the highest concentration per liter, which is 14.8ml/L - although, I usually use 15ml :wink:

  • Floramite (only to be used in Vegetative cycle!) This is dangerous stuff. No skin contact, you should wipe down anything it hits if you are likely to touch your eyes/mouth later on down the road after touching anything in the room. This is the big guns for sure, last resort type stuff.

  • Avid - Everything I said about Floramite is true for Avid as well, dangerous stuff. Proceed with caution. Once again, ONLY in Vegetative cycle. I know growers that are irresponsible and have used stuff like this in early bloom. I never would, but hey, that's just me. I grow medicine, not poison.

  • Neem Oil - IME it doesn't really do much to them, but it's great as a preventative. I have a buddy that swears up and down that it kills them if you're meticulous and repetitive with it. This is not true in my experience but that particular grower knows what he's talking about for the most part, so who knows? Still a good thing to keep on rotation, but we'll get to that later.


Spraying and Frequency
  • Spray every 3-4 days in order to kill all life cycles. As you'll see by the life cycle chart at the end of this section, their life cycle is long as shit so I would personally do 3-5 applications or so. Residual insecticide doesn't mean anything to spider mites, they build immunity like beavers build bridges. They are a worthy adversary and do NOT fuck around. I get nervous every time I even see one in person, either at another buddy's growroom or outside, for fear I may accidentally bring eggs into my grow room. We'll get to a section on treating your grow room (or space, tent) like a clean room later on at the end of the insect section.

  • Spray the tops and undersides of all leaves. This sounds super tedious, I know. That's because it is, and it works. I've found if you get lazy with any aspect of treating spider mites in an indoor room they will keep coming back over and over, forever. They are particularly bad in Cali but I'm sure people get them everywhere, there are endless "help!! spider mites won't stoppp!!" threads out there on various sites. :smile:

  • Bleach all surfaces after the grow. 3ml/L of bleach in a spray bottle works just fine, spray all horizontal surfaces with it as well as walls, any grow trays, tables, etc. Pretty much everything. It sucks, I know, I've had to do it to get rid of a recurring spider mite infestation. In a large room it can be a horrifying experience but usually on top of foggers and everything else, bleaching is when they finally stop coming back for good. Bleach will actually kill the eggs. Many products claim to kill eggs, many don't, IME.


Other Recommendations As Far As Grow Room Dynamics:
  • Raising Humidity Levels: As I said above, the spider mites that typically plague our indoor rooms like it hot and dry. So one of the things I have immediately done in the past the moment I notice mites is turn my dehumidification settings UP. Usually I keep a range in my bloom room of around 45-50% RH (relative humidity). I will turn this up 5 degrees so I end up with a range of about 50-55%. Any further than this and you're pushing it for potentially getting stuff like Powdery Mildew that loves high humidity conditions.

  • Lowering Temperatures: This will not kill them, but it will slow them down so that other measures can be taken. I use CO2 enrichment so I tend to run higher temperatures than growers that don't use CO2 enrichment, as this helps the plants make the most of the CO2. I tend to run temps of 77 - 87 degrees F or so. Whatever temps you're running, turn everything down around 10-15 degrees or so. If it's bad I'll drop it as low as I can get it, which with my new mini-split AC unit I'm using is around 62 F.

  • Raising CO2 Levels: If you are using CO2 enrichment and are normally running 1200-1500 or so, kick it up to 2000. Whatever the highest your controller will let you go to is fine. Most of them have a safety feature built in to not allow you to go past 2000 or so. This is because around 2400 ppm of CO2 in a room, it starts becoming dangerous to humans. This measure also will not kill them, but combined with the humidity and temp settings above, they're no longer in a comfortable, heavy-breed-friendly environment.


Spider mite life cycle: (know thy enemy)





Fungus gnats       

I'm going to be brief on fungus gnats because I don't consider them much of a threat to our indoor environments, unless of course they get really, really bad.

Fungus gnats technically only do damage at the larval stage. The adults land on the soil and bury their eggs. When the larvae hatch they begin to eat dead matter in the soil, as well as the delicate root hairs of plants. The reason they call them fungus gnats is they oftentimes carry all kinds of nasty stuff with them. So as they're munching through your plant's root hairs they're also simultaneously exposing it to potentially disease causing fungi.

Luckily they are extremely easy to get rid of. Two words= Diatomaceous Earth (DE)! This particular brand:



Moltan® UltraSorb® - Oil Absorbent: says that it is pure Diatomaceous Earth and can be found at your local Auto Parts Store. Sprinkle a thin layer of it on the surface of the soil. Fungus gnats can't stand the stuff, they won't go anywhere near it. You'll still see the larvae that are already in the soil become adults, but the life cycle will be ended so you won't see any adults in about a week or so. It never fails. :smile:

Of course using a little bit of Doktor Doom can't ever hurt, and Neem seems to deter them a bit too. Either of these can be used to end the problem a little faster, after spreading some DE of course. :thumbup:



Fungus gnat life cycle: (know thy enemy)



Next! Murdering malicious, pestilent insects makes me :whacker: But, of course, not before washing my hands of any insecticides I may have used. :highfive:


Thrips                 

Thrips are so small they often go unnoticed until they are really bad, kind of like white flies or fungus gnats. The leaves will begin to look brown on the edges and almost as if they have been scratched, if you get the soil borne kind like I had. I've only had thrips once so I will be brief on this. Anyone who has anything to add feel free.


Thrip damage looks like the following, the first pic is probably the best example of early stage:

   

Azamax will kill them but for me they kept coming back over and over. Upon doing some reading I learned that there are few, but some, types of thrips that do lay eggs in the soil as well. I ended up doing 3-4 sprays with a relatively high dose of Azamax, (I believe around 12ml/L) and 2 soil drenches with Aza as well, following the soil drench guidelines.

Also: (Thanks to MightyWhite for reminding me!) a great product called Monterey's will also kill Thrips. It uses a compound called Spinosad which is created by fermenting a beneficial bacteria, so it's entirely organic as well. Either one of these options will put a great deal of hurt on Thrips, but of the two Monterey's may work just a little bit better.



Thrips do seem rather rare but a grower buddy of mine was absolutely plagued with them at one point so I guess they can be pretty bad. I got them in my relatively small veg room so they were easy to get rid of.

Spraying and Frequency

-Refer to Spider Mite Spraying and Frequency.

Thrip Life Cycle: (know thy enemy)



Alright, that's enough for now. I will reserve the next couple of posts so I can add more stuff later. Anyone who has anything to add, comments, criticisms, etc, feel free. Enjoy murdering those insects fellas,




-Mallacht


Edited by theMallacht (03/06/14 03:42 PM)


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OfflinetheMallacht
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Re: Mallacht Talks Insects & Insecticides In Indoor Grow Environments [Re: theMallacht]
    #19587209 - 02/18/14 08:45 PM (9 years, 11 months ago)

Reserved


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OfflinetheMallacht
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Re: Mallacht Talks Insects & Insecticides In Indoor Grow Environments [Re: theMallacht]
    #19587210 - 02/18/14 08:45 PM (9 years, 11 months ago)

Reserved 2


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Invisibleverbage
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Re: Mallacht Talks Insects & Insecticides In Indoor Grow Environments [Re: theMallacht]
    #19587280 - 02/18/14 09:00 PM (9 years, 11 months ago)

Great thread idea!


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Offlinespore baby
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Re: Mallacht Talks Insects & Insecticides In Indoor Grow Environments [Re: theMallacht]
    #19587287 - 02/18/14 09:02 PM (9 years, 11 months ago)

.


Edited by spore baby (12/20/14 11:41 AM)


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Invisibleferrel_human
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Re: Mallacht Talks Insects & Insecticides In Indoor Grow Environments [Re: theMallacht]
    #19587363 - 02/18/14 09:19 PM (9 years, 11 months ago)

Well thought out post brother Mallacht. I have used the diatamaceous earth and I concur it is very etfective at controlling fungus gnats. I hate those little bastard. One flew up my nose once.totally shitty man.

As for spidermites, I notice my grafts are vulnerable to them because of the increased growth.


And insecticidal soap is great for aphids. Organic and not harmful at all.


--------------------
Nature is my church and walking through it is gospel. It tells no lies and reveals all to those who look, and listen, closely.
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InvisibleGreenFingers
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Re: Mallacht Talks Insects & Insecticides In Indoor Grow Environments [Re: spore baby]
    #19587427 - 02/18/14 09:30 PM (9 years, 11 months ago)

Great thread. Appreciate you dedicating your time to help out the community mallacht. Very informative and some great info. Still gotta get myself some DE for my gnats that never seem to fully go away. Looking forward to the next chapter in your series!


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OfflinetheMallacht
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Re: Mallacht Talks Insects & Insecticides In Indoor Grow Environments [Re: spore baby]
    #19587516 - 02/18/14 09:51 PM (9 years, 11 months ago)

Quote:

spore baby said:
Having a few lady bugs would help clear some of those spider mites.
Lady bugs are one of the few bugs in small numbers that don't bother
me.




Where I tried to keep this as organic as possible, with the exception of Floramite and Avid, and I do empathize with organic growers, I disagree that lady bugs will completely solve the problem.

Not only that, but I've talked to people in the Hydro shop that have had their house completely infected with them.

The main reason why I believe that they don't work for the entirety of the problem is this simple principle called carrying capacity. From Wiki:
Quote:

The carrying capacity of a biological species in an environment is the maximum population size of the species that the environment can sustain indefinitely, given the food, habitat, water and other necessities available in the environment. In population biology, carrying capacity is defined as the environment's maximal load,[1] which is different from the concept of population equilibrium.




What this principle means is that a particular species' numbers tend to fluctuate according to how much food, water, and straight out room for them there is in that particular environment. So for instance if an animal eats a certain type of rat and that rat is in abundance, that predatory animal's numbers go up exponentially until there are so many of them that they can no longer find food, basic supply and demand. The problem with Lady Bugs is that they will run out of food and begin to die before all of the spider mites have been handled. It only takes a few of the little guys to survive and then they repopulate. Plus I read somewhere that they don't even like eating spider mites very much, they prefer aphids.


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InvisibleSuperD
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Re: Mallacht Talks Insects & Insecticides In Indoor Grow Environments [Re: theMallacht]
    #19587536 - 02/18/14 09:56 PM (9 years, 11 months ago)

Excellent thread and it couldn't have come at a better time while I've been dealing with the BS that I posted about earlier.  Currently going through the Azamax treatment and so far so good. :thumbup: I'd like to add I unpotted everything indoors and washed it down before doing anything and for now, the black growth on my precious VTBM has ceased, as well as the growth on the variegated pedros.  Keep it up, looking forward to more info!


--------------------
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Manoa said:
I need to stop spending all my money on plants and take up a cheaper hobby, like heroin. :lol:

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OfflineLSoares
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Re: Mallacht Talks Insects & Insecticides In Indoor Grow Environments [Re: SuperD]
    #19588368 - 02/19/14 02:10 AM (9 years, 11 months ago)

Thanks, man. :bow:

While at the subject of "safe" control of pests, do you have experience with predatory mites (never used them, but I'm curious)? I do understand your reserve on biological control, but using an organism (another mite) with the same "range size", so to speak, would go some way towards achieving a sort of "zoning" on your grow room or greenhouse (I'm a cactus person) that would enable the predators to survive elsewhere even if lack of prey caused them to die in a certain spot / bench /side / whatever?


--------------------
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Cactus grower particularly fond of north american miniatures.
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Sowing cacti - my way!
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InvisibleMostly_HarmlessM
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Re: Mallacht Talks Insects & Insecticides In Indoor Grow Environments [Re: theMallacht]
    #19588382 - 02/19/14 02:20 AM (9 years, 11 months ago)

Quote:

theMallacht said:
  • Neem Oil - IME it doesn't really do much to them, but it's great as a preventative. I have a buddy that swears up and down that it kills them if you're meticulous and repetitive with it. This is not true in my experience but that particular grower knows what he's talking about for the most part, so who knows? Still a good thing to keep on rotation, but we'll get to that later.[/LIST]




  • Cold pressed neem oil is all I have used for controlling mites for several seasons, in both indoor growboxes, and a greenhouse, and have found it does the job just great. Mostly used as a soil drench, with foliar sprays to the underside of certain vegetation as required during an outbreak. Very cheap too!


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    OfflinetheMallacht
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    Re: Mallacht Talks Insects & Insecticides In Indoor Grow Environments [Re: LSoares]
        #19588393 - 02/19/14 02:26 AM (9 years, 11 months ago)

    Quote:

    LSoares said:
    Thanks, man. :bow:

    While at the subject of "safe" control of pests, do you have experience with predatory mites (never used them, but I'm curious)? I do understand your reserve on biological control, but using an organism (another mite) with the same "range size", so to speak, would go some way towards achieving a sort of "zoning" on your grow room or greenhouse (I'm a cactus person) that would enable the predators to survive elsewhere even if lack of prey caused them to die in a certain spot / bench /side / whatever?




    In my experience and stories that I've heard from others, predatory insects of any kind are never going to get rid of the problem entirely. The population of them builds while they are getting fed, but think about the relative range they have to cover comparative to their size. It's like finding a needle in a haystack. There's no way they're going to find all of them and end all of the cycles of life. All it takes is one pregnant mite, and you've got another 30 mites ready to breed more.

    Quote:

    A single female can lay up to 500-800 eggs in her lifetime at a rate of 20-30 a day.




    I've heard of growers being very consistent with it and releasing new predators every few days, but this has to be done en mass and very consistently in order to work. I still personally feel it never truly gets rid of the problem the way that organic pesticide sprays and wiping every surface down with a bleach solution in between grows does. Predatory insects can get pretty expensive too in the numbers you need for them to actually work.


    Edited by theMallacht (02/19/14 02:41 AM)


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    OfflineLSoares
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    Re: Mallacht Talks Insects & Insecticides In Indoor Grow Environments [Re: theMallacht]
        #19588399 - 02/19/14 02:34 AM (9 years, 11 months ago)

    Thank you. :thumbup: :smile:


    --------------------
    Z. in sunny Lisbon, Portugal
    Cactus grower particularly fond of north american miniatures.
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    OfflinetheMallacht
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    Re: Mallacht Talks Insects & Insecticides In Indoor Grow Environments [Re: Mostly_Harmless]
        #19588409 - 02/19/14 02:46 AM (9 years, 11 months ago)

    Quote:

    Mostly_Harmless said:
    Cold pressed neem oil is all I have used for controlling mites for several seasons, in both indoor growboxes, and a greenhouse, and have found it does the job just great. Mostly used as a soil drench, with foliar sprays to the underside of certain vegetation as required during an outbreak. Very cheap too!




    We must have some mutant mites here in SoCal then man! You'll catch them building swimming pools in Neem around here, little lifeguard stations, the works. :smirk: I've seen guys straight up throw Avid at them at they still come back, and that stuff is super harsh. I did say IME, and of course each region is going to be different. I'm sure the tolerances that mites have in each region are different. Plus, your mites have English accents.


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    Offlineintelligentlife
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    Re: Mallacht Talks Insects & Insecticides In Indoor Grow Environments [Re: theMallacht]
        #19588479 - 02/19/14 03:46 AM (9 years, 11 months ago)

    Cold pressed neem oil is harsh stuff is used wrong way.

    I know I have done all possible DO NOT -scenarios with cold pressed neem oil. This is because of direct skin spray with neem under strong spring day light. No need to be even direct sun to cause damage.


    Proper use is very good and effective to control pests in cactus or any plant but as picture show, I used it wrong at first when I started to use it and also lophophora seems to be very bad with oil based pesticides.

    Neem can cause more damage to plant than any bug out there and I have find out neem even kill lophophora species(very easy) when cold pressed neem oil are used wrong way.

    Some species of cactus seems to be "immune" to use of neem, for example ariocarpus I have not seen take any damage from neem, instead lophs can die for it. In the picture are peyote, later on died because all epidermis died.

    Also I have find out neem works by making pool of water, add neem in to water and dip the pots in neem water, same time I use pure water to spray directly water to skin of cactus and try to dislodge spider mites to soil what is moist of neem water.. There seems to be some compounds active as systemic.

    Also it works good via bottom watering if roots have sucker pests like mealies. Not one instant kill but over the time it effects to mealies also.. I find out when dip pots to neem water, I can see mealies running away and they can be find later on wondering around plant epidermis and easily picked away or killed.

    I would not use any oil based pesticide directly especially to lophophora. Also I have find out pyrethrin aerosols and few other pesticides can do more damage to plant instead of pests itself. Foliage plants and some another seems to do better oil based stuff like neem oil. But key in my mind if prevention and control, instead of trying to get rid of every bug at once.. It can lead to bad issues.

    With neem I have find out pyrethrin aerosol sprays are also nasty stuff to skin of lophs.

    However, for mealybugs, I use dimethoate, very toxic, it's easier to use directly to skin of cactus but I suggest to avoid to use it and when used, plants should be isolated away from outdoor greenhouse if possible.

    To avoid possible accidents, I suggest to study of predator bugs and what they like to eat, most organic product companies sell living predators and they are very good to use when fighting against pests in plants, especially in greenhouse and large areas.. Releasing your own small army against pests seems to be very good and effective way and that time no need to use any pesticides.

    Predator bugs are good and in my country there are companies selling relatively cheap price their cultivated predator bugs. I think these companies are soon rising more and it's not hard to find online store what selling predator bugs for greenhouse, indoor and outdoor cultivation, it only needs to study your pests and find out what is their enemy to fight against the pests in plants. One key word still is in my mind prevention.

    In good luck predatory bugs will find their way to greenhouse, if not, they can be released there to let them feed. Spider are typically always in greenhouse, it's like small ecosystem itself.

    In my climate greenhouse growing season is very short and that time it's very unlikely bugs can spread to any plant, spiders are so aggressive there and find always moist and hot places, greenhouse offers very good artificial environment compared to arctic climate and spider always find their way in greenhouse.

    I never want to use pesticides when I move plants outdoors to greenhouse. I just don't want to kill predators with chemicals.

    Good thread:thumbup:


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    Invisibleferrel_human
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    Re: Mallacht Talks Insects & Insecticides In Indoor Grow Environments [Re: intelligentlife]
        #19591610 - 02/19/14 07:30 PM (9 years, 11 months ago)

    It was brought to my attention that I totally disregarded the fact that its for indoor grow environments. And I said something about aphids. I believe aphids show up only when the ants bring them around, right? And its easy to control ants indoors. Now my questions is this, if you control the ants then aphids dont matter because the ants bring them around.am I right in my statement or should I just stop drinking for the night?:confused2:


    --------------------
    Nature is my church and walking through it is gospel. It tells no lies and reveals all to those who look, and listen, closely.
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    OfflinetheMallacht
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    Re: Mallacht Talks Insects & Insecticides In Indoor Grow Environments [Re: ferrel_human]
        #19592254 - 02/19/14 09:48 PM (9 years, 11 months ago)

    I've personally never seen an aphid in an indoor grow room, I guess anything is possible. :smile:


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    Re: Mallacht Talks Insects & Insecticides In Indoor Grow Environments [Re: theMallacht]
        #19593184 - 02/20/14 02:44 AM (9 years, 11 months ago)

    This thread has been added to the Ethnobotanical Garden Encyclopaedia under USEFUL, INFORMATIVE & INTERESTING POSTS/LINKS


    --------------------
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    || Lophophora Growers Unite! || Trichocereus Growers Unite! || Stone Eaters - A Soil Revolution ||


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    Re: Mallacht Talks Insects & Insecticides In Indoor Grow Environments [Re: Mostly_Harmless]
        #19593190 - 02/20/14 02:47 AM (9 years, 11 months ago)

    Does anyone have any experience with neem cake?

    vidence of induced resistance against the red spider mite, Tetranychus urticae Koch. in Okra (Abelmoschus esculentus (L.) Moench) plants manured with oilcake based vermicomposts.

    Quote:

    Abstract

    Rearing of the red spider mite, Tetranychus urticae Koch, on foliage of Okra (Abelmoschus esculentus (L.) Moench) plants manured with different oilcake based vermicomposts resulted in reduced reproductivity of the pest. Highest reduction was due to neem cake based vermicompost which was significantly superior to karanj and castor cake based vermicomposts. Lowest reduction was in vermicompost from cow dung alone but significantly higher than that in unmanured control. Reduction in reproductivity of T. urticae is indicative of induced resistance against it in host plants through manuring with oilcake vermicomposts.





    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neem_cake

    Quote:

    Components

    Neem Cake has an adequate quantity of NPK in organic form for plant growth. Being a totally botanical product it contains 100% natural NPK content and other essential micro nutrients as N(Nitrogen 2.0% to 5.0%), P(Phosphorus 0.5% to 1.0%), K(Potassium 1.0% to 2.0%), Ca(Calcium 0.5% to 3.0%), Mg(Magnesium 0.3% to 1.0%), S(Sulphur 0.2% to 3.0%), Zn(Zinc 15 ppm to 60 ppm), Cu(Copper 4 ppm to 20 ppm), Fe (Iron 500 ppm to 1200 ppm), Mn (Manganese 20 ppm to 60 ppm). It is rich in both sulphur compounds and bitter limonoids.

    According to research calculations, neem cake seems to make soil more fertile due to an ingredient that blocks soil bacteria from converting nitrogenous compounds into nitrogen gas. It is a nitrification inhibitor and prolongs the availability of nitrogen to both short duration and long duration crops....

    Use as a fertilizer

    Neem cake organic manure protects plant roots from nematodes, soil grubs and white ants probably due to its residual limonoid content. It also acts as a natural fertilizer with pesticidal properties. Neem cake is widely used in India to fertilize paddy, cotton and sugarcane. Usage of neem cake have shown an increase in the dry matter in Tectona grandis (Teak), Acacia nilotica (Gum Arabic), and other forest trees.

    Neem seed cake also reduce alkalinity in soil, as it produces organic acids on decomposition. Being totally natural, it is compatible with soil microbes, improves and rhizosphere microflora and hence ensures fertility of the soil. Neem Cake improves the organic matter content of the soil, helping improve soil texture, water holding capacity, and soil aeration for better root development.

    Pest control

    Neem cake is effective in the management of insects and pests. The bitter principles of the soil and cake have been reported to have seven types of activities (a) antifeedant (b) attractant (c) repellent (d) insecticide (e) nematicide (f) growth disruptor and (g) antimicrobial.

    The cake contains salannin, nimbin, azadirachtin and azadiradione as the major components. Of these, azadirachtin and meliantriol are used as locust antifeedants while salannin is used as an antifeedant for the housefly.




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    OfflineMightyWhite
    Male
    Registered: 08/27/08
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    Re: Mallacht Talks Insects & Insecticides In Indoor Grow Environments [Re: Mostly_Harmless]
        #19659155 - 03/06/14 12:05 PM (9 years, 10 months ago)

    I would like to add a bit of information in here too regarding thrips. First off, Azamax is an awesome product along side with Diatomaceous Earth.

    What I've found through my own battle with a thrip infestation is another product that I think is better than Azamax when treating thrips only. It's called Monterey Garden Insect Spray, its OMRI listed. Controls foliage feeding worms, thrips, leafminers and other pests. It contains Spinosad, and this stuff will absolutely devastate a thrip population. It's a foliar treatment applied every 4-5 days to the top and underside of the leaves. I have used it and I swear by it. After 2-3 treatments, your thrip problem will be gone. And I would very highly recommend always using Diatomaceous Earth for any soil born insects.
    Warning...Monterey Garden Insect Spay is toxic to bees and there are a few plants you can't use it on...Broccoli Raab, Chinese Cabbage, Collards, Kale, Mizuna, Mustard Spinach and Rape Greens.


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