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bodhisatta 
Smurf real estate agent



Registered: 04/30/13
Posts: 61,915
Loc: Milky way
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Re: need help with casing skinny shrooms ll im getiin [Re: bodhisatta]
#19504021 - 01/31/14 11:22 PM (10 years, 11 months ago) |
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Quote:
jimlo said: I told you thats not the only post i read just the first one to pop up .in school they also taught you to understand what some one says before saying shit back. people werent kidding about a bunch of ass holes on this site alot of u havent even giving me any good advice on how to make them better just talk shit and some of your pics my last harvest looked as good ill even post pics.i wanted good advice i obviously came to the wrong place.
I spent the time typing this out to help you, if you want to take it the wrong way go ahead but you wont be missed

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bodhisatta said:
There's nothing mushrooms like about red light, they like the sun, buy a daylight bulb in the 6500K range, the small spiral ones or a tube one 26W IE 100W incandecent equivalent or better and leave it about a foot away from the top of your fruiting chamber
I'm fruiting in my place at 62F and things are fine
I would like to see you turn things around and get good at cultivating mushrooms. Take a look at the lets grow mushroom dvd and the first link in my signature for starters.
Try the BRF/PF tek or some of violets in vitro grain jars
or make in-vitro bags.
you can be butt hurt, or you can learn  I myself prefer not to be a stressed out 4 year old.
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cronicr



Registered: 08/07/11
Posts: 62,905
Loc: Van Isle
Last seen: 3 minutes, 48 seconds
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Re: need help with casing skinny shrooms ll im getiin [Re: jimlo]
#19504025 - 01/31/14 11:22 PM (10 years, 11 months ago) |
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Quote:
jimlo said: I told you thats not the only post i read just the first one to pop up .in school they also taught you to understand what some one says before saying shit back. people werent kidding about a bunch of ass holes on this site alot of u havent even giving me any good advice on how to make them better just talk shit and some of your pics my last harvest looked as good ill even post pics.i wanted good advice i obviously came to the wrong place.
 you got the advise, just because it wasn't what you wanna hear doesn't make it bad advise,so eat a fat one cause were not here to spoon feed you the bs you want to hear so
-------------------- It doesn't matter what i think of you...all that matters is clean spawn
I'm tired do me a favor
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bodhisatta 
Smurf real estate agent



Registered: 04/30/13
Posts: 61,915
Loc: Milky way
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Re: need help with casing skinny shrooms ll im getiin [Re: jimlo]
#19504029 - 01/31/14 11:23 PM (10 years, 11 months ago) |
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jimlo said: U also dont expect a site to have more wrong information then right delete the bunk shit instead of talking shit u might saveyourself and others some time.
would you like to be the shroomery janitor? This place doesn't pay anyone, it's like the streets you got to get street smart.
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jimlo
Stranger
Registered: 01/13/14
Posts: 20
Last seen: 10 years, 11 months
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Re: need help with casing skinny shrooms ll im getiin [Re: jimlo]
#19504045 - 01/31/14 11:27 PM (10 years, 11 months ago) |
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Also he is going fora large grow.he has already done other teks like shotgun and such he istryimg to get alotusing casing if some one has some good advice on how to do that or some links that would be appreciated.he also took the tops off the tubs and is using a humidifier to keep the whole room moist. And has a heater running. Should he have a fan in there a well
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PussyFart
Retired Cultivation Extrodinaire



Registered: 04/08/12
Posts: 22,502
Loc: Orbiting Earth
Last seen: 7 months, 28 days
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Re: need help with casing skinny shrooms ll im getiin [Re: jimlo]
#19504050 - 01/31/14 11:27 PM (10 years, 11 months ago) |
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EDIT: For some reason the post I was replying to just disappeared........
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THIS HOBBY IS NOT FOR THE IMPATIENT! PLEASE BE PATIENT, DON'T BE A PATIENT!
A Tale of 10 Isolates, GT Cluster Clone Monotubs, RR's Let's Grow Mushrooms DVD,
SGFC(Shotgun Fruiting Chamber), Monotub Tek, Damion5050's Coir Tek, TL's Tek List, Frank's Tek List,
EvilMushroom666's Pasteurization Tek, How It Should & Shouldn't Look - NEW CULTIVATORS GUIDE
*** *** AFGHAN KUSH GROW LOG *** ***
Edited by PussyFart (01/31/14 11:28 PM)
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cronicr



Registered: 08/07/11
Posts: 62,905
Loc: Van Isle
Last seen: 3 minutes, 48 seconds
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Re: need help with casing skinny shrooms ll im getiin [Re: PussyFart]
#19504052 - 01/31/14 11:28 PM (10 years, 11 months ago) |
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-------------------- It doesn't matter what i think of you...all that matters is clean spawn
I'm tired do me a favor
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jimlo
Stranger
Registered: 01/13/14
Posts: 20
Last seen: 10 years, 11 months
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Re: need help with casing skinny shrooms ll im getiin [Re: jimlo]
#19504063 - 01/31/14 11:30 PM (10 years, 11 months ago) |
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U cant expect noobs to see a bunch of old posts and know there wrong when there are alot and non saying that .and there are non saying its wrong .orthere are some just notas easily found
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cronicr



Registered: 08/07/11
Posts: 62,905
Loc: Van Isle
Last seen: 3 minutes, 48 seconds
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Re: need help with casing skinny shrooms ll im getiin [Re: jimlo]
#19504070 - 01/31/14 11:31 PM (10 years, 11 months ago) |
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Quote:
jimlo said: U cant expect noobs to see a bunch of old posts and know there wrong when there are alot and non saying that .and there are non saying its wrong .orthere are some just notas easily found
THATS Y YOU POST! and you did and we steered you right and you spit on us, if you come across bad info there's a sticky at the top you can post it to
-------------------- It doesn't matter what i think of you...all that matters is clean spawn
I'm tired do me a favor
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jimlo
Stranger
Registered: 01/13/14
Posts: 20
Last seen: 10 years, 11 months
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Re: need help with casing skinny shrooms ll im getiin [Re: jimlo]
#19504077 - 01/31/14 11:33 PM (10 years, 11 months ago) |
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What advice besides ur shit is a complete failure lol only advicei saw was about the. Heat pad or to watch avideo ive already scene
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bodhisatta 
Smurf real estate agent



Registered: 04/30/13
Posts: 61,915
Loc: Milky way
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Re: need help with casing skinny shrooms ll im getiin [Re: jimlo]
#19504080 - 01/31/14 11:34 PM (10 years, 11 months ago) |
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Quote:
jimlo said: Also he is going fora large grow.he has already done other teks like shotgun and such he istryimg to get alotusing casing if some one has some good advice on how to do that or some links that would be appreciated.he also took the tops off the tubs and is using a humidifier to keep the whole room moist. And has a heater running. Should he have a fan in there a well
Answered in the Video Watch The Video, Watch The Video Check out the First link in my signature,(big gro friendly at the bottom of the post, if you did a grow with a SGFC then why did you try to kill your mushrooms with that tub in a tub contraption?) Take some of the things we said about searching and then do some critical thinking and put that info to good use
Also don't be wasting your time posting for someone else.
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jimlo said: U cant expect noobs to see a bunch of old posts and know there wrong when there are alot and non saying that .and there are non saying its wrong .orthere are some just notas easily found
And yes I can, I have a reasonable expectation that most humans that can access this sight would be able to notice some info is not quite as good as the other info. Do you always trust the world to just provide you with the best shit the second you press send on google? Do you ever find the porn you want to watch with one search?
Edited by Trusted cuItivator (01/31/14 11:35 PM)
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jimlo
Stranger
Registered: 01/13/14
Posts: 20
Last seen: 10 years, 11 months
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Re: need help with casing skinny shrooms ll im getiin [Re: jimlo]
#19504089 - 01/31/14 11:36 PM (10 years, 11 months ago) |
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i would also think the admin would be the janitor so shit like this didnt happen
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cronicr



Registered: 08/07/11
Posts: 62,905
Loc: Van Isle
Last seen: 3 minutes, 48 seconds
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Re: need help with casing skinny shrooms ll im getiin [Re: jimlo]
#19504092 - 01/31/14 11:36 PM (10 years, 11 months ago) |
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Light, Temperature, and Pinning Triggers...
Jars/bags/tubs/trays should colonize @ room temperature getting ambient/indirect light.
Main pinning triggers are full colonization, FAE and Evaporation off of the substrate.
Light is a secondary pinning trigger. For tropical species temperature is not a pinning factor.
P. Cubensis are a tropical species. You could colonize at 70F and fruit at 80F with great results.
Light has been proven beneficial during all stages of mycellium growth. Mushrooms like mammals have a circadian rhythm.
You want ambient/indirect light(on a 12/12 schedule preferably) for colonization and consolidation.
You want direct/intense 6500K light on a 12/12 schedule for fruiting.
Optimal temps are mid 70s throughout the whole grow, but anywhere from 70F-80F is acceptable.
Incubation is outdated/uneeded unless temps in the range stated above cannot be kept.
The inside of the jar is always a few degrees warmer than the outside because the mycellium produces heat..mycellium tends to stall at temps above 86F , and contams thrive.
Fruiting at cooler temps tends to produce denser, meatier fruits, while fruiting at higher temps will often produce hollow, less dense stems.
LCs From Spores... LCs from spores are sketchy. No spore syringe/print is ever 100% clean.
This is because the cap from which the spores came was more than likely fruited in the open air.
You cannot know 100% if an LC is good or not by visual inspection.
Test jars must be shot up and grown out.
Conditions are not correct for germination of spores in sugar LCs, grain LCs or extra light malt extract based LCs are perfect for spore germination.
For best results, make LCs from a fully colonized grain jar(GLC) or from an agar wedge.
Or skip LC entirely and just G2G(Grain to Grain) transfers to expand your mycellium.
Proper SGFC
A proper SGFC should have 1/4"(6mm) holes spaced 2" apart in a grid pattern on all 6 sides(top and bottom) and filled with 5" of damp perlite.
The chamber must also be raised so that air can pass up thru the bottom holes, and wick up moisture from the water evaporating off the perlite, this will create a very humid environment inside the chamber.
A SGFC works off of the natural air currents in a room with no fans, mess with those currents and your humidity drops.
FAE
FAE = Fresh Air Exchange.
Lack of FAE leads to aerial mycellium, and mycellium crawling up the stems, or "fuzzy feet".
Bulging mycellium around the cake is sometimes an indicator that the cakes needed more time after full colonization for consolidation.
Heat and Potency
This info gets repeated daily...
The actives in muchrooms dont break down until FAR past 300F, while most dehydrators never make it past 165F.
I use my dehydrator that gets to 150F+ for 12 hours and I get completely dry fruits with no potency loss.
Psilocybin & Psilocin Chemistry
Use Heat!
SHIT THAT GETS REPEATED DAILY
Please do not refer to spawning a bulk substrate as a casing. Coir/verm is bulk substrate material.
They used to refer to a bulk substrate as a casing, but now it just adds confusion. Its called a spawning to a bulk substrate, not casing.
A casing layer is a non nutritious top layer usually applied to a fully colonized bulk substrate for moisture retention and pinning. When you do this it is called casing, see where it can get confusing?
P.Cubensis do no benefit from a casing layer.(usually)
pinning strategies The major pinning triggers are in order of importance, full colonization, a decrease in CO2 levels due to increased air exchange(not gas exchange which is minimal), a steady rate of evaporation from the substrate or casing layer, and lastly, light.
Hyphal knots form best in 100% humidity, but I didn't list that because it's not a pinning trigger, but rather an environmental condition that is necessary. That's why we use casing layers. The casing helps to provide the 100% humidity right at the surface of the substrate where the hyphal knots form.
I have seen no correlation with temperature drop whatsoever. In the summer, my growing chambers are 10 or more degrees warmer than the open shelves I incubate on due to the heating effects of the lights. Even with a temperature increase, I still get wall to wall pinsets, so I don't consider temp drop relevant at all to tropical species. Other growers disagree of course, but that's just my observation after many years.
Full colonization of the substrate is the number 1 pinning trigger. Full colonization can be when the mycelium reaches the physical border of the container they are in, or when they run up against a biological border, such as a contaminant species. Either way, they see they have colonized all of what is available to them, so they then enter the next phase, which is reproduction.
There must be evaporation of moisture from the substrate for pins to form. A waterlogged substrate will just sit there forever without pinning. Even in 99% humidity, as long as you provide fresh air, moisture will be evaporating away from the substrate, and this is necessary for pinning. We mist to replenish the lost moisture, then allow it to dry slightly before misting again. This keeps the moisture content high, and keeps the humidity at the casing surface near 100%, but at the same time provides the evaporation of moisture that is a very important pinning trigger.
During colonization, we provide very small holes in the jars or tubs for gas exchange. We want a high CO2 environment during colonization, because this prevents the mycelium from consuming all of the substrate. The mycelium colonizes the substrate, but doesn't 'eat it all up' due to the high CO2 levels. During fruiting, we remove the covers to provide air exchange, which is at a much higher level then the minimal gas exchange provided during colonization. This increase in air exchange lowers the CO2 levels, and is a major pinning trigger. At this time, the mycelium begins to consume the substrate it has previously colonized, and we notice during fruiting that our substrates pull away from the sides of the container. This is not due to moisture loss, but rather due to the mycelium 'eating' the substrate and turning it into CO2, a waste product. It is easily proved that this shrinking isn't related to moisture loss, because even when we dunk a bulk substrate, it doesn't return to its pre-flush size.
Last, but not by any means least is exposure to light. Light does much more than just tell the mushrooms which way to grow. There are mechanisms in the light that stimulate the formation of hyphal knots as well, and light at the higher end of the spectrum(blue) definitely, absolutely stimulate more hyphal knots(which grow into primordia, which then morph into pins) than light at the lower end of the spectrum(red) This does not mean to get a 'mood light' with a blue lens, but rather to select lights such as metal halide, or much more economical is 'natural daylight' fluorescent that emit light at around 6,000 kelvin to 7,500 kelvin depending on the brand. Cool white fluorescent emit light at around 5,000 kelvin and the 'red' incandescents emit light at around 3,000 kelvin. The higher the light temperature in kelvin, the more stimulatory it is to hyphal knot formation. I hope this helps. RR spores function NOW TIME FOR... Function Spores either drop, or are ejected from the bottom of the mushroom cap. The miniscule size of spores allows them to get caught in, and carried along, gentle air currents. When most spores hit the ground, they fall on infertile ground: rocks, leaves of grass, streams, etc. The few spores that do fall on fertile ground send out shoots into the ground, finding other shoots, from other spores and starting a reproductive process, connecting and expanding the underground fungus system otherwise known as mycelium hyphae is just one filament of a fungi.. mycelium is a network of hyphae..
Hyphae compose the mycelium so they have the same function, digestion and absorption of nutrients from the environment, and producing spores and sporangia. The sporangium is the structure upon which the spores are produced. The spores produce new hyphae and mycelium.
It is through the mycelium that a fungus absorbs nutrients from its environment. It does this in a two-stage process. First, the hyphae secrete enzymes onto or into the food source, which break down biological polymers into smaller units such as monomers. These monomers are then absorbed into the mycelium by facilitated diffusion and active transport. Mycelia are vital in terrestrial and aquatic ecosystems for their role in the decomposition of plant material. They contribute to the organic fraction of soil, and their growth releases carbon dioxide back into the atmosphere. The mycelium of mycorrhizal fungi increases the efficiency of water and nutrient absorption of most plants and confers resistance to some plant pathogens. Mycelia are an important food source for many soil invertebrates. Sclerotia are compact or hard masses of mycelia. which leads us 2.... mushrooms
The main body of the fungus - - the part that's digesting the substrate - - is called a mycelium, and the threads that make it up are called hyphae (HIGH-fee). The fruiting body of the fungus is also made up of hyphae: the "fibers" in the stem of a mushroom are made up of hyphae running in parallel to make the stem strong; the cap of the mushroom is made of of hyphae so tightly interwoven that they seem to be one solid mass; Mushrooms are fungi, and are usually placed in a Kingdom of there own apart from plants and animals. Mushrooms contain no chlorophyll and most are considered saprophytes. That is, they obtain their nutrition from metabolizing non living organic matter. This means they break down and "eat" dead plants, like your compost pile does. The body of the mushroom stores nutrients and other essential compounds, and when enough material is stored and the conditions are right they start to fruit - produce mushrooms. It is a hidden kingdom. The part of the fungus that we see is only the “fruit” of the organism. The living body of the fungus is a mycelium made out of a web of tiny filaments called hyphae. The mycelium is usually hidden in the soil, in wood, or another food source. A mycelium may fill a single ant, or cover many acres. The branching hyphae can add over a half mile (1 km) of total length to the mycelium each day. These webs live unseen until they develop mushrooms, puffballs, truffles, brackets, cups, “birds nests,” “corals” or other fruiting bodies. If the mycelium produces microscopic fruiting bodies, people may never notice the fungus.
Most fungi build their cell walls out of chitin. This is the same material as the hard outer shells of insects and other arthropods. Plants do not make chitin.
Fungi feed by absorbing nutrients from the organic material in which they live. Fungi do not have stomachs. They must digest their food before it can pass through the cell wall into the hyphae. Hyphae secrete acids and enzymes that break the surrounding organic material down into simple molecules they can easily absorb - this is composting.
Mushrooms are nutritious: They are a good source of B vitamins, especially niacin and riboflavin, and rank the highest among vegetables for protein content. But because they are low in fat and calories, Western nutritionists mistakenly considered them of no food value (a fresh pound has only about 125 calories). Yet in dried form, mushrooms have almost as much protein as veal and a significant amount of complex carbohydrates called polysaccharides. Shiitake mushrooms are among the most delicious & very nutritious.
Mushrooming up over night? If the body is spread out and microscopic, how do mushrooms grow so quickly? There are two basic reasons: 1) Since they store up compounds between fruiting and most fruit once a year, they have a lot of reserve available to support the mushroom. 2) Mushrooms develop differently than plants or animals do. Plants and animals grow through cell division - to get bigger they have to produce more cells. Cell division is relatively slow and requires a lot of energy. The mushroom body also grows by cell division. However, the mushroom fruit does not grow by cell division. Just about as soon as it starts to develop, a mushroom has almost the same number of cells that the mature mushroom will have. The mushroom increases in size through cell ENLARGEMENT! This means that the cells can balloon up very rapidly. Very little energy is required, basically the cells just enlarge with water. So a mushroom can increase in size as fast as water can be pumped into its cells. Almost overnight a mushroom can go from a pin head to a large mushroom.
-------------------- It doesn't matter what i think of you...all that matters is clean spawn
I'm tired do me a favor
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bodhisatta 
Smurf real estate agent



Registered: 04/30/13
Posts: 61,915
Loc: Milky way
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Re: need help with casing skinny shrooms ll im getiin [Re: jimlo]
#19504093 - 01/31/14 11:36 PM (10 years, 11 months ago) |
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jimlo said: What advice besides ur shit is a complete failure lol only advicei saw was about the. Heat pad or to watch avideo ive already scene
Fine, Here you go.
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bodhisatta 
Smurf real estate agent



Registered: 04/30/13
Posts: 61,915
Loc: Milky way
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Re: need help with casing skinny shrooms ll im getiin [Re: bodhisatta]
#19504097 - 01/31/14 11:37 PM (10 years, 11 months ago) |
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and here you go again
The Up To Date Shroomery use and Mushroom Cultivation Guide V1.0 This is meant to serve as a way to get any one accustomed to using the Shroomery as a research and diagnostic tool in a effective way as to benefit both the community and the self. In addition serve as a useful resource to get any person started with cultivation by providing the most up to date, user friendly, crowed sourced, time tested, and repeatedly proven TEKs possible.
First things First, read the forum rules
Your best tool: The Search Engine If you use the advance search engine you can click a box for trusted cultivators. This will give you replies to the question you had(that's already been asked 100s of times) by people that know their shit. Please do this before posting any question you have Also, You can limit the age of the posts to something like 2 years to make sure you get relevant information.
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bodhisatta said: the thing with the shroomery is you can find anything you want to confirm your beliefs. There's 1000s of posts from all sorts of members a huge percentage of which know relatively little about mycology, even myself I consider to be amateur at best in mycology. You'll only see people post their success and rarely if ever their failures. So you're only seeing the people that got away, Hey I made this and this doing this and this and it for whatever reason worked the one time they did it and now they come here and say try this to a bunch of people. If you want to do yourself a favor look for TEKs that have a lot of views and replies less than two to three years old and see if people have success replicating them, find a grow along with a TEK and see how many people got results, not some kid saying h2o2 kills bacteria in a LC, I could go post that right now and half the people would believe it.
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bodhisatta said: If you want them(cubes) to look good grow them as per a good reliable proven peer review tried and tested TEK says and do it to the T, lot's of kids come on here and post things they've tried some work most people only post their success not their failure so you're getting biased results, That's why you look for a proven TEK one with lot's of people behind it not just some kids bunk posts on cold shocking which doesn't even apply to this species, cubes are tropical...
Uh,oh you bought a grow kit  Take a look here and see if there's any way to salvage it. Chances are you just gave your money to someone who shipped you a box full of reminders that you just got kicked in the nuts. Don't fret though for less money then you spent on the kit you can get going the right way.
Got spores? Check out the sponsors list Here Here's the part of the forums to ask about which vendor to go with etc... Remember *Read the rules first* Sponsor fourms
What to do with spores. *PROtip : don't say I used sponsor XYZ's spores to do cultivation(in the rules)* Start here.
Alright, now you're informed from watching Let's grow mushrooms. The best few bucks you'll ever spend if you want to download it. Don't be cheap its 9$. (This is the only time I'm going to tell you to buy something that's not supplies for growing. Actually the videos are supplies if you think about it)
You can decide to do the PF tek or go to grains. If you want to go to grains you're going to need a pressure cooker, no question yes you do, unless you want to steam them at atmospheric pressure for 8 hours.
PF tek.
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bodhisatta said: When you don't have your own experience you should find something your gut tells you is trustworthy through your own investigation. Use the people who developed it's experience and let that guide you without throwing in your own gut feelings because they've likely had the same ones and figured out already that that didn't work. Then you'll develop your own experience and be able to branch out and continue the evolution of your craft.
When starting out it's best to follow the tek directions to the T. This will help us with any diagnosis if you run into a problem and need to ask for help on here in your own thread.
Obviously mushrooms are not as dangerous to fail as a failure in say flying an airplane but you're making food that you eat here so please follow directions until you have your own experience to rely on.
OK, lets get started.
Get some jars. You can use anything that's about 1/2 pint and is as wide as it is tall. There's 3 different Ball/Kerr jars that are 1/2 pint size. The wide-mouth is the ones you want to get. Regular mouth is tall and skinny and can lead to the mycellium stalling out. I have had success using these jars, so if you have them try them, but buy the right kind. If you can find a recycling code 5 AKA PP plastic tupperware you can rig that into a PF jar too albeit with a modified lid procedure *search engine bonus round*.
Evilmushroom666's take on PF cakes. Here's a thread I endorse if you want some very good supplemental instruction.
Vermiculite *PROtip : this stuff is not perlite* Found at most garden stores and some hardware stores, this mineral is a backbone of the PF mix supplying water and giving a texture that is easy for the mycelium to grow through
Water Anything but distilled. Distilled is great for making spore syringes only and filling up humidifiers only.
BRF you can grind your own brown rice or find it at a organic food store most likely. Brown rice still has the bran layer which is what we want.
Sterilization PF tek can be done without a pressure cooker(PC) in a steam bath for 90 minutes. Make sure the lid fits nicely, and the jars are protected from the bottom of the pan. *sterilization is not sanitation look them up if you are unfamiliar* A pressure cooker can be set for 60m at 15PSI when doing PF tek.
Inoculation Don't speed up the cooling down process, Take the foil off of the jars after they cool Don't leave it on *please* Flame sterilize the needle and don't wipe it with alcohol Alcohol sanitizes flame sterilizes. You don't want the 0.01% of nasty shit on the needle Use 0.25CC(aka mL) per hole or less Make sure to get the needle against the glass and below the verm barrier.
**You'll want to at the vary least use a SAB(still air box=search engine practice time) to ensure clean inoculations)**
Patience First sign of growth can take up to two weeks! Use this time to look around the forums and look at typical pictures of PF jars and what mycellium looks like. Try to take advantage of learning from the language used in posts that get the most help around here.
Dunk and Roll Don't skip this.
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cswizzle said: Yes! I rolled them then misted right away so a lot fell off. But lesson learned and the pins seem to be growing great now. Successful first cakes so far 
Let the verm stick to your cakes for a few hours before the initial misting or this will happen. Not the end of the world but I'd like to see you avoid it.
Fruiting Chamber A SGFC has 1/4" holes spaces 2 inches apart in a grid patten on all six sides. 4-6 inches of moist perlite. No attachments made to it with any extra things like humidifiers. Optimally the SGFC should be in the middle of a room. No fans should be run in the room with the SGFC, but a cracked window is OK. A humidifier in your house can help to raise the ambient RH but don't put it near your SGFC put it in the other corner of the room if you do decide to run a humidifier at all. The SGFC IMO should have at least 6-12 inches of room from any wall on all 6 sides. This includes finding some sort of raisers to elevate the SGFC off of the surface it's on.
Misting and Fanning. This is a source of much grief and 100's of posts a week here. Misting and fanning is not at all complicated as it needs to be. In general you'll mist your cakes until they glisten(yes they can even with the verm on them) and then fan right after the mist. You can mist your cakes directly and you should. When you notice the cake is no longer glistening you can mist it again and then fan. This occurs on average of 3-5 times a day. Don't worry about sleeping or being gone 12 hours. Just do it when you're around and don't forget about it is all. Fanning is not FAE it's only purpose is to relive the high RH air so that the cakes can get a kickstart on evaporation.
FAE This is a phenomenon (Fresh air exchange) in a properly built SGFC this is constantly happening. The perlite is naturally cooler than the surrounding air this moves molecules closer to eachother as the lose kinetic energy. This creates low pressure which pulls air up through the bottom holes. As the air moves through the perlite it picks up humidity and keeps the chamber at or above 90%RH. This occurs naturally without the fanning and is why we like to have no fans in the room and is also why fanning after misting is not a replacement for FAE.
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Notahacker420 said: Fanning is not a replacement for constant FAE.
You would need to fan several times per hour.

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The physics of the shotgun terrarium are that evaporation causes a temperature drop, thus the air molecules are closer together. This results in higher pressure within the air spaces around the perlite.
The substrates and/or lights provide slight heating within the body of the terrarium. This results in relatively lower pressure. This low pressure area above the perlite(high pressure) results in airflow to balance the pressure. This in turn leads to more evaporation from the perlite, continuing the process. This is why a shotgun terrarium handles FAE automatically.
The CO2 does not settle to the bottom. In addition, the CO2 from mushrooms is mixed thoroughly into the O2, thus it travels out through the holes in the sides and top as part of the natural circulation. It doesn't enter the denser air within the perlite and spill out the bottom. RR
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RogerRabbit said:
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JayBrasco said: fewer, you dont want alot of humidity to escape. only enough on the BOTTOM to get rid of CO2
Bad advice. Fresh air exchange causes a loss of moisture from the cakes or other substrate, and this loss of moisture is the number ONE pinning trigger. Noobs worry too much about humidity, which is easily corrected with misting. You MUST mist to make up for the lost moisture. In the old days, people would toss cakes in a sealed up chamber and hope for a couple of mushrooms before green mold set in. Today, you can easily get three or four times the harvest the early growers did by using a proper terrarium that provides both fresh air and high humidity.
Furthermore, why you guys think CO2 is heavy like water and will drain out holes in the bottom baffles the mind. If all the CO2 settled to the bottom, we'd all be dead due to the power plants and cars, cows, etc., that are puking out tons of CO2 by the minute. The CO2 MIXES with the air and thus must be exchanged WITH the air. It isn't a sweet little layer on the bottom of your fruiting chambers.
As for only reading 80% humidity in a shotgun terrarium with a humidifier running in the closet, it proves your hygrometer is screwed. I can put a shotgun terrarium in an open room with the lid totally off and get higher humidity than that.
I seriously doubt anyone has lower humidity than I do. It's below zero outside and I use a large cast iron wood stove to heat my cabin. My properly made shotgun terrariums all read 95% or greater. I keep a cool mist humidifier running near the wood stove, and it's nice and cozy in here, even though there's nearly five feet of snow on the ground outside. RR
Co2's concentration in "air" is higher at sea level but it's still mixed evenly with the air. Yes gravity does work but it doesn't pull co2 out of the air to make it it's own distinct layer.
even more on the subject
RH You can't see RH, a SGFC should have no condensation on the walls, Condensation is caused by temperature differentials, if you have condensation you need to fix something. If you want to measure RH the bare minimum in quality for a hygrometer is a analog cigar box one that can be calibrated or a "synthetic hair hygrometer"
Pinning triggers debunked No1 triggers are. full colonization of the substrate and then slow evaporation of moisture off of the substrate. This happens with the interplay between high RH and FAE.
no2(secondary) trigger are everything else like light
Common Misconceptions that new growers always do Plugging up the holes on your SGFC will LOWER the humidity and give you LESS FAE which means more stale air more bacterial buildup and uglier shrooms.
You can dunk your cakes with pins on them
FAE is not a specific number of FAEs per hour. FAE is keeping your CO2 levels below ~600-1000PPM. Obviously in a huge room with only one small cake you would not need even 1 FAE an hour, In a two liter soda bottle with one cake you would need several FAE per hour to keep your CO2 levels in check.
Lighting requirements of mushrooms
Quote:
PocketRevolution said: There are two great terrarium designs that the majority of users on this site use. Monotubs and Shotgun terrariums. Both these designs have the advantages of having no moving parts, having no need for electricity (+water=danger), and working really well.
I spent a few hundred dollars building a Poor Man's Pod to spec. (PMP is a design similar to what you're describing but using LECA as an evaporative medium). It did work. It was also really heavy, and sometimes the water turned a bit skunky, and the bubble wands clogged with red sand. Eventually it sprung a leak and leaked all over my floor. Luckily I had kept my power bar off the ground. Since my tub already had one hole in it I figured drilling more was the way to go, and I converted it into a shotgun terrarium , and I never looked back.
-After the PF tek-
Start here
How frank gets shit done This is franks post with links to his teks. Frank is one of our Trusted Cultivators.
Tips and tricksLot's of good stuff in here.
Preparing grain spawn What to do with that spawn? Coir prep Tek
Know you want to do monotubs right away?
Monotubs/Grain spawn How to get started
1. Make grain spawn WBS is used in the TEK(I use rye) Frank's WBS Prep (perfect every time)
2. If you want to expand your grain jars without individual inoculation use G2G transfers Grain to grain in a SAB
3. Now you should have colonized grain spawn, time to make a bulk substrate to spawn to. Frank's Simple Coir/Verm Tek I personally use coir Frank's hpoo substrate, revisited poo works too
4. That substrate has to be pasteurized, here's some info to clear up any confusion about pasteurization Frank's Proper Pasteurization Tek 3.0
5. Ok you have spawn and bulk substrate, time to mix them Frank's Bulk Spawning Tek (in a monotub)
6. Additional monotub info for best results How to dial in your monotubs like a boss
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PussyFart
Retired Cultivation Extrodinaire



Registered: 04/08/12
Posts: 22,502
Loc: Orbiting Earth
Last seen: 7 months, 28 days
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Re: need help with casing skinny shrooms ll im getiin [Re: bodhisatta]
#19504152 - 01/31/14 11:51 PM (10 years, 11 months ago) |
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--------------------
THIS HOBBY IS NOT FOR THE IMPATIENT! PLEASE BE PATIENT, DON'T BE A PATIENT!
A Tale of 10 Isolates, GT Cluster Clone Monotubs, RR's Let's Grow Mushrooms DVD,
SGFC(Shotgun Fruiting Chamber), Monotub Tek, Damion5050's Coir Tek, TL's Tek List, Frank's Tek List,
EvilMushroom666's Pasteurization Tek, How It Should & Shouldn't Look - NEW CULTIVATORS GUIDE
*** *** AFGHAN KUSH GROW LOG *** ***
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cronicr



Registered: 08/07/11
Posts: 62,905
Loc: Van Isle
Last seen: 3 minutes, 48 seconds
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Re: need help with casing skinny shrooms ll im getiin [Re: PussyFart]
#19504161 - 01/31/14 11:53 PM (10 years, 11 months ago) |
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Quote:
PussyFart said:

ask you shall recieve
-------------------- It doesn't matter what i think of you...all that matters is clean spawn
I'm tired do me a favor
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bodhisatta 
Smurf real estate agent



Registered: 04/30/13
Posts: 61,915
Loc: Milky way
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Re: need help with casing skinny shrooms ll im getiin [Re: cronicr]
#19504169 - 01/31/14 11:54 PM (10 years, 11 months ago) |
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Quote:
cronicr said:
Quote:
PussyFart said:

ask you shall recieve
 Really wanted the spoon feeding.
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jimlo
Stranger
Registered: 01/13/14
Posts: 20
Last seen: 10 years, 11 months
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Re: need help with casing skinny shrooms ll im getiin [Re: jimlo]
#19504178 - 01/31/14 11:56 PM (10 years, 11 months ago) |
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jimlo
Stranger
Registered: 01/13/14
Posts: 20
Last seen: 10 years, 11 months
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Re: need help with casing skinny shrooms ll im getiin [Re: jimlo]
#19504182 - 01/31/14 11:57 PM (10 years, 11 months ago) |
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thnk u guys for all the adviice thts wht he needed but if a couple of u disagree im kinda in the same spot on which to believe but thank u im saving all this info for my friend
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jimlo
Stranger
Registered: 01/13/14
Posts: 20
Last seen: 10 years, 11 months
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Re: need help with casing skinny shrooms ll im getiin [Re: jimlo]
#19504192 - 01/31/14 11:59 PM (10 years, 11 months ago) |
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thanks for the spoon feeding lol
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