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OfflineYOmamaPr0
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Re: Questions about growth of my first grain jars with pics [Re: YOmamaPr0]
    #19359329 - 01/02/14 04:06 PM (10 years, 1 month ago)

Like letting the substrate fully consolidate which gives big pinsets and such ei. a lot of primordia and knots which equals a lot of pins?. 6500K lights? best way to raise humidity?  I'm sorta trying to make a list lol.


Edited by YOmamaPr0 (01/02/14 04:09 PM)


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OfflinecronicrFacebook
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Re: Questions about growth of my first grain jars with pics [Re: YOmamaPr0]
    #19359346 - 01/02/14 04:10 PM (10 years, 1 month ago)

i smoking a fatty...be back in five, i will now put you on hold


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It doesn't matter what i think of you...all that matters is clean spawn

I'm tired do me a favor


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OfflinecronicrFacebook
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Re: Questions about growth of my first grain jars with pics [Re: cronicr]
    #19359397 - 01/02/14 04:18 PM (10 years, 1 month ago)

bulk subs don't need tobe consolidated you can fruit right at 100 percent but if you do 3 days is enough,all ste ups from sg's to gh's to mono's are capabble of the wall to wall the right genetics key, just follow your pinning triggers and you will be fine either way you choose


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It doesn't matter what i think of you...all that matters is clean spawn

I'm tired do me a favor


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OfflineValyr
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Re: Questions about growth of my first grain jars with pics [Re: cronicr]
    #19361578 - 01/03/14 12:37 AM (10 years, 1 month ago)

Just to make sure were on the same page here, there is a difference between colonization and consolidation. When your sub is still brown and being taken over my mycelium that is colonization. When its 100% white and you still let it sit for a while that's called consolidation. Just wanted to make sure. Plainest way that I can understand it is that the mycellium sorta recovers its str and does some body building while it consolidates before reapplying itself to fruiting. This generally isn't needed with cubes cause there such a robust species already. Same reason that casing layers aren't needed.

Other than that, yeah all forms of fruiting chambers are great and can, as cronicr said, give you the pretty wall to walls :smile:. That being said most major cultivators use mono's for the lion share of there work. There the easiest for real bulk.

Controlling humidity: Three big things on that are proper feild capacity of substrate, re hydration of grains and oil filled radiant heat if any additional heat source is needed (nothing with a fan creating air current). If that's all good than a lot of the time your tubs will care for them selves really. If anything more is needed just mist the sides of the walls and Ive heard a lot of people (im trying it myself now) use a thin layer of vermiculite on the top as a casing layer and mist that as-well. Reason being that it changes color when it dries so its a easy visual cue. With sgfc's you can also redunk the perlite between flushes if needed :smile:.

Yes 6500k light


Edited by Valyr (01/03/14 12:57 AM)


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InvisibleJoust
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Re: Questions about growth of my first grain jars with pics [Re: Valyr]
    #19362034 - 01/03/14 03:40 AM (10 years, 1 month ago)

Op, your jars are looking great, it tickles me too see such white fluffy Myc, did you use isolates?


--------------------
~~~~~~***Psilocybin Mushrooms***~~~~~~
_________A Practical Guide To Psilocybin Mushrooms_________

:sporedrop:                      "Think about the species, not your scale". -NeoSporen                      :sporedrop:

"Mr. Joust, I see you don't actually partake in the psilocin, but it looks like it may partake in you!" -Gojira


       


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OfflineYOmamaPr0
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Re: Questions about growth of my first grain jars with pics [Re: Valyr]
    #19362404 - 01/03/14 08:19 AM (10 years, 1 month ago)

Awesome response bro. Yea my basic understanding is the longer you wait before fruiting the better the pinset will be because it had more time to consolidate. More knots and primordia and then trigger pinning = wall to wall hehe. Also what would you guys say your average or your typical dry weight of flushes from a monotub. I know there are a ton of deciding factors but I just want to hear some numbers from personal experience. :takingnotes:


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OfflineYOmamaPr0
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Re: Questions about growth of my first grain jars with pics [Re: cronicr]
    #19362407 - 01/03/14 08:20 AM (10 years, 1 month ago)

Will do :biggrin:


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OfflineYOmamaPr0
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Re: Questions about growth of my first grain jars with pics [Re: Joust]
    #19362415 - 01/03/14 08:25 AM (10 years, 1 month ago)

Haha I've noticed it looked mighty fluffy myself. No isolate. MS syringe :tongue:


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OfflinecronicrFacebook
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Re: Questions about growth of my first grain jars with pics [Re: YOmamaPr0]
    #19363082 - 01/03/14 11:54 AM (10 years, 1 month ago)

The major pinning triggers are in order of importance, full colonization, a decrease in CO2 levels due to increased air exchange(not gas exchange which is minimal), a steady rate of evaporation from the substrate or casing layer, and lastly, light.

Hyphal knots form best in 100% humidity, but I didn't list that because it's not a pinning trigger, but rather an environmental condition that is necessary. That's why we use casing layers. The casing helps to provide the 100% humidity right at the surface of the substrate where the hyphal knots form.

I have seen no correlation with temperature drop whatsoever. In the summer, my growing chambers are 10 or more degrees warmer than the open shelves I incubate on due to the heating effects of the lights. Even with a temperature increase, I still get wall to wall pinsets, so I don't consider temp drop relevant at all to tropical species. Other growers disagree of course, but that's just my observation after many years.

Full colonization of the substrate is the number 1 pinning trigger. Full colonization can be when the mycelium reaches the physical border of the container they are in, or when they run up against a biological border, such as a contaminant species. Either way, they see they have colonized all of what is available to them, so they then enter the next phase, which is reproduction.

There must be evaporation of moisture from the substrate for pins to form. A waterlogged substrate will just sit there forever without pinning. Even in 99% humidity, as long as you provide fresh air, moisture will be evaporating away from the substrate, and this is necessary for pinning. We mist to replenish the lost moisture, then allow it to dry slightly before misting again. This keeps the moisture content high, and keeps the humidity at the casing surface near 100%, but at the same time provides the evaporation of moisture that is a very important pinning trigger.

During colonization, we provide very small holes in the jars or tubs for gas exchange. We want a high CO2 environment during colonization, because this prevents the mycelium from consuming all of the substrate. The mycelium colonizes the substrate, but doesn't 'eat it all up' due to the high CO2 levels. During fruiting, we remove the covers to provide air exchange, which is at a much higher level then the minimal gas exchange provided during colonization. This increase in air exchange lowers the CO2 levels, and is a major pinning trigger. At this time, the mycelium begins to consume the substrate it has previously colonized, and we notice during fruiting that our substrates pull away from the sides of the container. This is not due to moisture loss, but rather due to the mycelium 'eating' the substrate and turning it into CO2, a waste product. It is easily proved that this shrinking isn't related to moisture loss, because even when we dunk a bulk substrate, it doesn't return to its pre-flush size.

Last, but not by any means least is exposure to light. Light does much more than just tell the mushrooms which way to grow. There are mechanisms in the light that stimulate the formation of hyphal knots as well, and light at the higher end of the spectrum(blue) definitely, absolutely stimulate more hyphal knots(which grow into primordia, which then morph into pins) than light at the lower end of the spectrum(red) This does not mean to get a 'mood light' with a blue lens, but rather to select lights such as metal halide, or much more economical is 'natural daylight' fluorescent that emit light at around 6,000 kelvin to 7,500 kelvin depending on the brand. Cool white fluorescent emit light at around 5,000 kelvin and the 'red' incandescents emit light at around 3,000 kelvin. The higher the light temperature in kelvin, the more stimulatory it is to hyphal knot formation. I hope this helps.
RR
hope that helps


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It doesn't matter what i think of you...all that matters is clean spawn

I'm tired do me a favor


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OfflineValyr
Con nulla non si fa nulla.


Registered: 05/08/13
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Re: Questions about growth of my first grain jars with pics [Re: cronicr]
    #19364250 - 01/03/14 04:39 PM (10 years, 1 month ago)

RR is the fucking man lol. He just has the way of speaking that breaks everything right down to its fundamentals and explaining so a child could get it.

There trully are just so many variances in play that to try and count on any particular weight of return on flushes would be an excersize in self defeating futility. That being said...

Starting from a mss with atleast average genetics and giving that all your grain prep and pasteurization etc was done correctly, ive experienced an average return of 4-5oz dry weight from first flush on 60 quart tubs receiving 6qts spawn and 10qts sub of a basic nature (coir verm thats it). Just seems to be whats average for me.

However, just to give you a look at the other side of the fence... FH has stated that with his recipes for grain and sub prep (including things like coffee and gypsum) and using isolates of his own he can average about 8-9oz dry weight from the same size tub and spawn/sub ratio.

And PLEASE do keep in mind to not count on or get your hopes overly up for anykind of return as this hobby, especially when working with ms, is just unpredictable and therefor uncontrollable. Any number of things from bad genetics to contamination to human error to mother fucking nature can decide to bitch slap you at anytime lol.


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OfflineYOmamaPr0
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Re: Questions about growth of my first grain jars with pics [Re: Valyr]
    #19366155 - 01/03/14 10:29 PM (10 years, 1 month ago)



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OfflinePussyFart
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Re: Questions about growth of my first grain jars with pics [Re: YOmamaPr0]
    #19366460 - 01/04/14 12:04 AM (10 years, 1 month ago)

Quote:

YOmamaPr0 said:
Holes too big for Sab?  https://files.shroomery.org/files/14-001/881307653-20140104_002358.jpg



They look too close together to be comfortable......and yea they look big as hell.

Just big enough for your arms to fit thru.


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OfflinecronicrFacebook
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Re: Questions about growth of my first grain jars with pics [Re: PussyFart]
    #19366464 - 01/04/14 12:06 AM (10 years, 1 month ago)

at shoulder width


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It doesn't matter what i think of you...all that matters is clean spawn

I'm tired do me a favor


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OfflineYOmamaPr0
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Re: Questions about growth of my first grain jars with pics [Re: cronicr]
    #19377565 - 01/06/14 02:41 PM (10 years, 1 month ago)

You guys know the grain jars I PCed a week ago? Yea still haven't inoculated them lolol. Just a mixture of laziness and the inability to create my sab. Gonna stop by the grocery store on the way home from work tonight and pick up a smaller coffee can. The can I got last time was obviously too big lolol. Planned inoculation is tonight. Please stay on me about so I don't start procrastinating again. Lol jk.
Other jars are about ready to shake. Will update with pics soon! Cheers! :toast: :bigblunt:


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OfflineYOmamaPr0
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Re: Questions about growth of my first grain jars with pics [Re: YOmamaPr0]
    #19380323 - 01/07/14 12:21 AM (10 years, 1 month ago)

As promised I made my sab with a coffee can:lol after I got off work tonight.  I inoculated the 10 jars with 10cc of PE6. Pics will tell the rest. :whoo:


First time flame sterilizing question. I got it red hot and then waited 5-10. Squirted a little out and then inoculated. It just kind of scared me because the end was hissing because of the fluid at the tip of needle.(during the flame part :lol:)
At one point I somewhat quickly inoculated a few jars but on RR's videos he says it doesn't even matter. ("the fluids just gonna cool it anyways") How long should I wait? I'm just making sure and just wanna hear some opinions as usual.:takingnotes: Just wondering. Thanks as always! :rockon:


Edited by YOmamaPr0 (01/07/14 12:25 AM)


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OfflinecronicrFacebook
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Re: Questions about growth of my first grain jars with pics [Re: YOmamaPr0]
    #19380359 - 01/07/14 12:33 AM (10 years, 1 month ago)

Quote:

YOmamaPr0 said:
on RR's videos he says it doesn't even matter. ("the fluids just gonna cool it anyways"):rockon:




--------------------

It doesn't matter what i think of you...all that matters is clean spawn

I'm tired do me a favor


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OfflineAEL1911
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Re: Questions about growth of my first grain jars with pics [Re: cronicr]
    #19380971 - 01/07/14 05:10 AM (10 years, 1 month ago)

Did you purchase a wicker basket to match the color of the grains or was that a coincidence?


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Check out some fungi in Japan!


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OfflineValyr
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Re: Questions about growth of my first grain jars with pics [Re: AEL1911]
    #19382243 - 01/07/14 12:33 PM (10 years, 1 month ago)

You dont have to wait at all. Just squirt some out and innoc.


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OfflineYOmamaPr0
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Re: Questions about growth of my first grain jars with pics [Re: Valyr]
    #19383520 - 01/07/14 04:26 PM (10 years, 1 month ago)

Ok awesome. That's exactly what I did. Thanks for feedback everyone.


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OfflinecronicrFacebook
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Re: Questions about growth of my first grain jars with pics [Re: YOmamaPr0]
    #19383562 - 01/07/14 04:33 PM (10 years, 1 month ago)

i see mushies below your name:wink:


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It doesn't matter what i think of you...all that matters is clean spawn

I'm tired do me a favor


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