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zebraman
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Registered: 04/25/13
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Does my mono tub look ready to fruit?
#19256510 - 12/10/13 05:28 PM (10 years, 1 month ago) |
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This is my first monotub grow WBS spawned to coir, I'm not sure if I should have let it consolidate longer, it was 1/4 brick coir and 3 quarts spawn i let it colonize for about 15days

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cronicr



Registered: 08/07/11
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Re: Does my mono tub look ready to fruit? [Re: zebraman]
#19256521 - 12/10/13 05:30 PM (10 years, 1 month ago) |
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i'd fruit that!
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jimmyjame1
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Re: Does my mono tub look ready to fruit? [Re: cronicr]
#19256584 - 12/10/13 05:41 PM (10 years, 1 month ago) |
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i can see coir still. that means its not fully colonized. id wait a few days. till its filled in completely otherwise you risk contamination. which at this point would suck.
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zebraman
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Re: Does my mono tub look ready to fruit? [Re: jimmyjame1]
#19256631 - 12/10/13 05:52 PM (10 years, 1 month ago) |
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So I guess I should tape the holes up and let it sit for another week or so?
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jimmyjame1
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Re: Does my mono tub look ready to fruit? [Re: zebraman]
#19256640 - 12/10/13 05:54 PM (10 years, 1 month ago) |
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do that.
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zebraman
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Re: Does my mono tub look ready to fruit? [Re: zebraman]
#19256680 - 12/10/13 05:59 PM (10 years, 1 month ago) |
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Also I've been reading a lot of mixed information about complete darkness during colonization, some say they should receive some light while others say full darkness, just confused if it does matter
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PussyFart
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Re: Does my mono tub look ready to fruit? [Re: zebraman]
#19256701 - 12/10/13 06:03 PM (10 years, 1 month ago) |
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Lighting Requirements of Mushrooms
Some mushrooms, such as the Agaricus species commonly found in grocery stores require no light at all. However, those commonly grown by hobbyists, such as Pleurotus ostreatus (Oyster Mushrooms), Lentinus enodes (Shiitake), Psilocybe cubensis, a hallucinogenic mushroom, and Hericium erinaceus (Lion's Mane) all require light to produce abundant, normal sized fruits. Experience has taught us that the light best suited for primordia formation and the development of fruitbodies is bright light with a color temperature of 5,000 Kelvin to 7,000 Kelvin. Fortunately, this type of light is easily obtainable at your local home improvement center in the form of fluorescent fixtures. For a small terrarium as described in this chapter, a single CFL (compact fluorescent) that screws into a standard light bulb socket will work very well. These can often be found in grocery and drug stores in every neighborhood. 15 watt CFLs will do the job well, but the package will probably have a large 60 stamped on it, indicating they produce light "equivalent" to a 60 watt incandescent light bulb. They're referring to lumens of output, not the frequency. Incandescent light bulbs are the worst possible choice for growing mushrooms, since they emit a 'red' light in the 3,000 Kelvin color temperature range.
The higher the color temperature, expressed in Kelvin, the closer to the 'blue' end of the spectrum the emitted light is. The lower the color temperature the 'redder' the light is. If you have a choice of fluorescent lamps, purchase those labeled 'daylight' since these have a somewhat higher color temperature than cool white. Daylight, sometimes called 'natural daylight' fluorescent tubes generally emit light in the 6,500 Kelvin range, while cool white fluorescent emits light at around 5,000 Kelvin. If you have several terrariums stacked or otherwise near each other, you can use larger 2 to 4 tube fluorescent fixtures. These come in 48" and 96" lengths. Place the fluorescent lamps as close as you can get them to your terrariums without causing excessive heating. Species such as Shiitake and Oyster mushrooms prefer to fruit at temperatures in the upper 50's to mid 60's Fahrenheit (15C to 20C), while Psilocybe cubensis prefers to fruit at a temperature in the mid 70s to about 80 Fahrenheit (23C to 27C) Most mushroom species don't mind a slightly warmer temperature during daytime than at night, so if your grow room is a bit colder than the temperature ranges given above, a little warming from your lights during the daytime won't hurt at all, provided you don't let the air in your terrarium get too dry. For cakes, try to keep the humidity above 95%. Cased substrates are a bit more forgiving, but still try to keep your humidity above 90%. 12 hours on, 12 hours off has proved to be a great combination over a wide range of species. Of course, if you have a bright window near your terrarium, that will suffice, but direct sunlight for more than a few minutes per day should be avoided. Disregard outdated advice in old books which is constantly repeated on the internet to colonize mushroom substrates in total darkness. Experience and rigorous peer reviewed studies have proved that exposure to low level ambient indoor lighting during spawn run and substrate colonizing will speed up the process, leading to full colonization up to a few days earlier than the same substrate would if colonized in darkness. In addition, mushroom mycelium develops a day/night circadian rhythm, so exposure to light from day of inoculation sets this process in motion, leading to earlier fruiting and harvest.
http://www.mushroomvideos.com/Terrarium-Tek
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THIS HOBBY IS NOT FOR THE IMPATIENT! PLEASE BE PATIENT, DON'T BE A PATIENT! A Tale of 10 Isolates, GT Cluster Clone Monotubs, RR's Let's Grow Mushrooms DVD, SGFC(Shotgun Fruiting Chamber), Monotub Tek, Damion5050's Coir Tek, TL's Tek List, Frank's Tek List, EvilMushroom666's Pasteurization Tek, How It Should & Shouldn't Look - NEW CULTIVATORS GUIDE *** *** AFGHAN KUSH GROW LOG *** ***
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jimmyjame1
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Re: Does my mono tub look ready to fruit? [Re: PussyFart]
#19256704 - 12/10/13 06:03 PM (10 years, 1 month ago) |
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Quote:
Notahacker420 said: Lighting Requirements of Mushrooms
Some mushrooms, such as the Agaricus species commonly found in grocery stores require no light at all. However, those commonly grown by hobbyists, such as Pleurotus ostreatus (Oyster Mushrooms), Lentinus enodes (Shiitake), Psilocybe cubensis, a hallucinogenic mushroom, and Hericium erinaceus (Lion's Mane) all require light to produce abundant, normal sized fruits. Experience has taught us that the light best suited for primordia formation and the development of fruitbodies is bright light with a color temperature of 5,000 Kelvin to 7,000 Kelvin. Fortunately, this type of light is easily obtainable at your local home improvement center in the form of fluorescent fixtures. For a small terrarium as described in this chapter, a single CFL (compact fluorescent) that screws into a standard light bulb socket will work very well. These can often be found in grocery and drug stores in every neighborhood. 15 watt CFLs will do the job well, but the package will probably have a large 60 stamped on it, indicating they produce light "equivalent" to a 60 watt incandescent light bulb. They're referring to lumens of output, not the frequency. Incandescent light bulbs are the worst possible choice for growing mushrooms, since they emit a 'red' light in the 3,000 Kelvin color temperature range.
The higher the color temperature, expressed in Kelvin, the closer to the 'blue' end of the spectrum the emitted light is. The lower the color temperature the 'redder' the light is. If you have a choice of fluorescent lamps, purchase those labeled 'daylight' since these have a somewhat higher color temperature than cool white. Daylight, sometimes called 'natural daylight' fluorescent tubes generally emit light in the 6,500 Kelvin range, while cool white fluorescent emits light at around 5,000 Kelvin. If you have several terrariums stacked or otherwise near each other, you can use larger 2 to 4 tube fluorescent fixtures. These come in 48" and 96" lengths. Place the fluorescent lamps as close as you can get them to your terrariums without causing excessive heating. Species such as Shiitake and Oyster mushrooms prefer to fruit at temperatures in the upper 50's to mid 60's Fahrenheit (15C to 20C), while Psilocybe cubensis prefers to fruit at a temperature in the mid 70s to about 80 Fahrenheit (23C to 27C) Most mushroom species don't mind a slightly warmer temperature during daytime than at night, so if your grow room is a bit colder than the temperature ranges given above, a little warming from your lights during the daytime won't hurt at all, provided you don't let the air in your terrarium get too dry. For cakes, try to keep the humidity above 95%. Cased substrates are a bit more forgiving, but still try to keep your humidity above 90%. 12 hours on, 12 hours off has proved to be a great combination over a wide range of species. Of course, if you have a bright window near your terrarium, that will suffice, but direct sunlight for more than a few minutes per day should be avoided. Disregard outdated advice in old books which is constantly repeated on the internet to colonize mushroom substrates in total darkness. Experience and rigorous peer reviewed studies have proved that exposure to low level ambient indoor lighting during spawn run and substrate colonizing will speed up the process, leading to full colonization up to a few days earlier than the same substrate would if colonized in darkness. In addition, mushroom mycelium develops a day/night circadian rhythm, so exposure to light from day of inoculation sets this process in motion, leading to earlier fruiting and harvest.
http://www.mushroomvideos.com/Terrarium-Tek
--------------------
Link to My Journaland My Trade List
 LOVE PEACE AND BEAUTIFUL MUSIC.
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twistedty
Forcefully Retired



Registered: 07/01/12
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Re: Does my mono tub look ready to fruit? [Re: jimmyjame1]
#19256716 - 12/10/13 06:06 PM (10 years, 1 month ago) |
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did you put a layer of coir on after you mixed up your substrate? what ratio did you use sub/spawn
15 days is a pretty long time for colonization
Edited by twistedty (12/10/13 06:07 PM)
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cronicr



Registered: 08/07/11
Posts: 61,436
Loc: Van Isle
Last seen: 2 years, 8 days
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Re: Does my mono tub look ready to fruit? [Re: twistedty]
#19256726 - 12/10/13 06:09 PM (10 years, 1 month ago) |
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those pics don't even look like the same tub or at least time, the first 2 look more colonized and also
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  It doesn't matter what i think of you...all that matters is clean spawn I'm tired do me a favor
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zebraman
Stranger


Registered: 04/25/13
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Last seen: 8 years, 3 months
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Re: Does my mono tub look ready to fruit? [Re: cronicr]
#19256929 - 12/10/13 06:44 PM (10 years, 1 month ago) |
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1/4brick with a little verm, 3quarts wbs , I just mixed it all up no top layer of straight coir, also the pics were same time I was just holding the light in one hand and the camera in the other , maybe the lighting made them look different
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zebraman
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Re: Does my mono tub look ready to fruit? [Re: zebraman]
#19256947 - 12/10/13 06:47 PM (10 years, 1 month ago) |
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I also didn't know any better and colonized in total darkness
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jimmyjame1
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Re: Does my mono tub look ready to fruit? [Re: zebraman]
#19257026 - 12/10/13 06:58 PM (10 years, 1 month ago) |
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it just looks like it needs more time. keep it in a bag to keep the co2 levels high and it should colonize in 5 or so days.
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 LOVE PEACE AND BEAUTIFUL MUSIC.
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twistedty
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Re: Does my mono tub look ready to fruit? [Re: zebraman]
#19257036 - 12/10/13 07:00 PM (10 years, 1 month ago) |
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Quote:
zebraman said: I also didn't know any better and colonized in total darkness
thats fine, its not a deal breaker
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zebraman
Stranger


Registered: 04/25/13
Posts: 45
Last seen: 8 years, 3 months
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Re: Does my mono tub look ready to fruit? [Re: twistedty]
#19257052 - 12/10/13 07:02 PM (10 years, 1 month ago) |
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Sweet thanks for the help
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