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OfflineNettleman
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Registered: 11/20/13
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Fruiting chamber basics
    #19177408 - 11/23/13 01:41 AM (10 years, 2 months ago)

Doing my first grow. I have successfully birthed my cakes (Cub. B+) and now they are in a fruiting chamber, but I am confused if I've done the chamber correctly. In RR's videos he shows a chamber with many holes on all 6 sides of the tub, but then shows another tub that has just a few holes on it's sides.
Reading and searching here on the forum got me confused even more. I found a how-to for a tub with 4 large holes filled with polyfill, other had no holes but an aquarium air bubbler under a layer of stones...

At the moment my tub has about 40 1/4" holes total on it's sides and in the lid. Should I make more? Make holes in the bottom? Or rather cover some with a tape? Or make a few big ones and put polyfill in?

Some info also says to partially cover the sides with black plastic or tape, some 12/12 light...

I am really overloaded with conflicting information on which type of fruiting chamber is used for what tek or for which type of mushroom. Any advice would be appreciated.


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InvisibleFrankHorrigan
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Re: Fruiting chamber basics [Re: Nettleman]
    #19177413 - 11/23/13 01:42 AM (10 years, 2 months ago)

RR states "1/4 inch holes every two inches on all six sides."

This is how many holes you need.


--------------------

Yes, you can bump my old threads with a question.
Here is how I get things done.
You should take a look. :hehehe:


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OfflinePussyFart
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Re: Fruiting chamber basics [Re: Nettleman]
    #19177423 - 11/23/13 01:47 AM (10 years, 2 months ago)

Quote:

Nettleman said:
Doing my first grow. I have successfully birthed my cakes (Cub. B+) and now they are in a fruiting chamber, but I am confused if I've done the chamber correctly. In RR's videos he shows a chamber with many holes on all 6 sides of the tub, but then shows another tub that has just a few holes on it's sides.
Reading and searching here on the forum got me confused even more. I found a how-to for a tub with 4 large holes filled with polyfill, other had no holes but an aquarium air bubbler under a layer of stones.



Ok, tubs with 4-6 holes stuffed with polyfill are called monotubs are are ONLY for bulk substrate, not cakes.

A SGFC has 1/4" holes every 2" on all 6 sides in a grid pattern, is filled with 4-5" of moist perlite, and is what you should be using for cakes.

You cannot use a monotub with cakes....perlite in a monotub is pointless....

Quote:

Nettleman said:
At the moment my tub has about 40 1/4" holes total on it's sides and in the lid. Should I make more? Make holes in the bottom? Or rather cover some with a tape? Or make a few big ones and put polyfill in?



1/4" holes every 2" on all 6 sides in a grid pattern...follow the tek.

http://www.mushroomvideos.com/Terrarium-Tek

Quote:

Nettleman said:
Some info also says to partially cover the sides with black plastic or tape, some 12/12 light....



This is not needed....light does not cause side pinning, FAE does.

If you are doing bulk then you would want to use a plastic liner INSIDE the tub, but not to block light, to stop FAE from hitting the sides of the substrate.

Quote:

Nettleman said:
I am really overloaded with conflicting information on which type of fruiting chamber is used for what tek or for which type of mushroom. Any advice would be appreciated.



If you just follow the one tek for cakes, you will be fine....

http://www.mushroomvideos.com/Terrarium-Tek

Make a proper SGFC as per the tek for cakes.


Edited by PussyFart (11/23/13 01:48 AM)


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OfflineNettleman
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Re: Fruiting chamber basics [Re: PussyFart]
    #19177437 - 11/23/13 01:52 AM (10 years, 2 months ago)

Thank you for the clarification. This is very helpful.


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Offlinetinkerous
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Re: Fruiting chamber basics [Re: Nettleman]
    #19177693 - 11/23/13 04:28 AM (10 years, 2 months ago)

I'm glad for the reassurance. I'll be building my sgfc soon.


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OfflineNettleman
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Re: Fruiting chamber basics [Re: tinkerous]
    #19181547 - 11/24/13 06:25 AM (10 years, 2 months ago)

Not sure if I should create another topic for my other questions, but it is SGFC related so I'll just add it here.

Right after placing the cakes in the FC, do I need to regularly mist the perlite and/or the cakes? (I know I am suppose to mist the cakes like 30 minutes after I put them there so the vermiculite doesn't gets washed away). If so, how often?

If the answer is yes to continues misting, is it harmful for the cakes if some water also lands directly on the pins/shrooms?

Do I need to fan it few times a day or keep it closed? If fan, then from the start or only after first pins appear?

Does the FC needs to be placed in dark until the pins appear or can it be exposed to home light cycles right from the start?

Should I use a white light CFL bulb and shine in on a side(s) of the chamber (my lid is not translucent) to get better yields?

What humidity should be in the FC? When I made more holes as per the tek, the humidity dropped from about 95 to 85%. Is this normal?

I've read so much different stuff, that I feel like I know less then before I started reading. :tongue:
Any help would be appreciated.


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OfflinePussyFart
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Re: Fruiting chamber basics [Re: Nettleman]
    #19182166 - 11/24/13 11:10 AM (10 years, 2 months ago)

Quote:

Nettleman said:
Not sure if I should create another topic for my other questions, but it is SGFC related so I'll just add it here.

Right after placing the cakes in the FC, do I need to regularly mist the perlite and/or the cakes? (I know I am suppose to mist the cakes like 30 minutes after I put them there so the vermiculite doesn't gets washed away). If so, how often?

If the answer is yes to continues misting, is it harmful for the cakes if some water also lands directly on the pins/shrooms?




Mist the cakes directly with a fine mist from about 1 to 1.5 feet away, mist until they glisted, then fan out the chamber to promote evaporation, which is a main pinning trigger.

There should be overspray from misting the cakes, which at the same time usually gets the walls and the perlite anyways.

You should be misting the cakes when you see the water you previously applied has evaporated off the cakes.

Quote:

Nettleman said:
Does the FC needs to be placed in dark until the pins appear or can it be exposed to home light cycles right from the start?



Jars/bags/tubs/trays should colonize @ room temperature getting ambient/indirect light.

Main pinning triggers are full colonization, FAE and Evaporation off of the substrate.

Light is a secondary pinning trigger. For tropical species temperature is not a pinning factor.

P. Cubensis are a tropical species. You could colonize at 70F and fruit at 80F with great results.

Light has been proven beneficial during all stages of mycellium growth. Mushrooms like mammals have a circadian rhythm.

You want ambient/indirect light(on a 12/12 schedule preferably) for colonization and consolidation.

You want direct/intense 6500K light on a 12/12 schedule for fruiting.

Optimal temps are mid 70s throughout the whole grow, but anywhere from 65F-80F is acceptable.

Incubation is outdated/uneeded unless temps in the range stated above cannot be kept.

The inside of the jar is always a few degrees warmer than the outside because the mycellium produces heat..mycellium tends to stall at temps above 86F , and contams thrive.

Fruiting at cooler temps tends to produce denser, meatier fruits, while fruiting at higher temps will often produce hollow, less dense stems.


Mycelium should be exposed to ambient room light from day of inoculation as has been known for many years.  Light is not a pinning trigger until after full colonization and an increase in air is given, and even then it's a secondary pinning trigger.
RR

Quote:

Nettleman said:
Should I use a white light CFL bulb and shine in on a side(s) of the chamber (my lid is not translucent) to get better yields?



Yes.

Quote:

Nettleman said:
What humidity should be in the FC? When I made more holes as per the tek, the humidity dropped from about 95 to 85%. Is this normal?.



It is perfectly normal for a made in china hygrometer.

A properly build SGFC will have perfect humidity, regardless of what some cheap hygrometer says.....


Edited by PussyFart (11/24/13 11:10 AM)


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