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Invisiblesynista
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What to do with my t.bridgesii
    #18887458 - 09/25/13 12:11 AM (10 years, 4 months ago)

This guy was ID'd as a bridgesii, I got it from a local hardware store for 15$.

Now it seems pretty thin compared to some of the specimens I see online (see the AA battery at the base for proportions), and it's getting some good growth.

It's sitting on a northwest facing windowsill, so it's only getting direct sun in the evenings. The rest of the time it's under ceiling CFL lightbulbs.

It's actually growing faster than the seedlings you see next to it. :/


My question is, should I get it away from the windowsill and give it minimal light because it's not growing season? Will it plump up more once watered?

I was thinking of cutting out the middle uneven part and use it, since it wasn't well taken care of at the store... Or should I just let it do its thing?



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InvisibleMostly_HarmlessM
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Re: What to do with my t.bridgesii [Re: synista]
    #18887479 - 09/25/13 12:18 AM (10 years, 4 months ago)

Cacti will grow when temps are warm enough.
If there is insufficient light when at growth temps, then they will stretch (etiolation)
CFL aren't really sufficient for columnars, beyond seedling size.
Find somewhere cold for it to rest until spring (<10C/50f), then acclimate to a brighter location.
The stretched growth will only fill out a small bit if readjusted to more light. It will be a weak point once heavier growth comes on top.
If the cactus stays in those conditions it will get taller and thinner, and the growth will be weaker and more susceptible to injury, pests, disease.


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Invisiblesynista
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Re: What to do with my t.bridgesii [Re: Mostly_Harmless]
    #18887598 - 09/25/13 01:12 AM (10 years, 4 months ago)

Is the middle, fatter growth what I should be aiming for? I can't think of a cold place where to put it at though... Are fluorescent hardware store growlights ok?


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Re: What to do with my t.bridgesii [Re: synista]
    #18887627 - 09/25/13 01:34 AM (10 years, 4 months ago)

You really need MH or HPS for columnars indoor.
They don't need light in dormancy. Most of my collection will spend winter in a dark garage.
The middle won't ever fill out too much now, and will need staking to help keep it upright. Or chop it up and root sections to grow new columns from.


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Re: What to do with my t.bridgesii [Re: Mostly_Harmless]
    #18887796 - 09/25/13 03:38 AM (10 years, 4 months ago)

T. Bridgesii is naturally very slim cactus.. I have seen pics from greenhouse grown bridgesii below 2inch(5cm) thick but they were full adults. Also many information site says trichocereus bridgesii is more slim than another trichocereus are.

However, north-west facing window is good for dormancy but if you keep watering cactus and temperatures are >+20C cactus will etiolate, it will "search light" by streching.

I suggest to keep it under fluoros but find a spot where temperature are below +20C and then do not water it. Move it to cool location after soil has dried.

Best conditions would be if you have +10C temperature(do draft) and totally dry soil. At these kind of conditions cactus survive without light few months and you can wait before growth season starts in your climate.

If you have no possible to keep cactus in so cold and so on.. Just do no water it at all, not at all. Keep it away from heat radiator if you have one and let it get small amount of light.

I tested this summer trichos, I hold water at growth season over month, growth almost stopped even cactus received south facing sun...
So you can control the growth with reducing light cycle and stop watering, let cactus go dehydrated..

Sometimes it's ok to spray a bit o water to the surface(in case of too much heat and dehydration) to surface of cactus at night but mostly keep it so dry than cactus will go soft cause lack of water, it will keep trichocereus not growing even temperatures are high.. Still I suggest not to keep it near any lights cause it receive heat from fluoros..

If that would be mine, I would keep it facing the window without any extra light and keep root temperature low at +20C or in best case between +15C or +10C. Don't water it, let it dehydrate, etiolation should stop even temperatures are +20C or so if cactus "suffer" dehydration.

Some cactus species in my climate will flower every summer indoors, echinopsis and mammillaria usually but they doesn't etiolate even heat radiator are below the plants. Only what matter is long day light at summer and long darkness at winter. Cactus cultivars doesn't give any drink of water to them at winter even they are at room temperature, they don't grow, they shrink. When spring comes and sun starts to show more higher from horizon, people starts to give small amounts of water to cacti and they plump up when spring starts and starts to bloom at spring, summer or fall.. Some species possible bloom from spring to fall.

So keep your t. bridgesii without water, let it shrink cause of dehydration.. It's cactus, it doesn't die and stops growth. You can still spray the water on the cactus or on the soil surface one or two times per winter bu don't water so much that cactus think it's summer and starts etiolate.

Some local cactus old enough are there used to it that winter temperatures are between +15-20C and summer +20-30C ..all their life indoors windowsill. Only what matter local people they control cactus growth is just let them shrink over winter and if temps are too high at winter, small spray moisten the soil keeps plant alive but doesn't let it to grow. That way some local people easily can get their echinopsis, mammillaria and few other plants to flower without coldshock most cactus needs.. Even these species should need cold shock but darkness without water seems to do the trick for some species over the years and they will bloom no matter temperatures of winter. Long dry period seems to do the trick there to cactus spent years on the same windowsill at same conditions, it doesn't matter anymore how much is winter temperature.

If you have cold storage room for cactus you don't need light.. +10C or so and totally dry soil it's ok and you can keep it there waiting spring and growth season.

Columnar growing indoors needs 2 or 3 airway facing windowsill to let them get lots of light. If you have only one windowsill facing one direction, columnar will grow slim. To get same fat growth than outdoors in their natural habitat, you need both HPS and MH light bulbs worth of 1-1.5kW and big cactus room.. Similar lights used to grow cannabis but both spectrums, blue and yellow bulbs. Power amount so much as you can afford and cool down the conditions.. even one 400Watt HPS/MH bulb will generate shitloads of heat but best of it is the light what the output from that kind of light have.


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Edited by intelligentlife (09/25/13 03:42 AM)


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Invisiblesynista
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Re: What to do with my t.bridgesii [Re: intelligentlife]
    #18888417 - 09/25/13 09:14 AM (10 years, 4 months ago)

Thanks for the reply intelligentlife, it's really helpful. I guess I will keep it somewhere darker and colder.
I'm in an apartment, so there isn't really a 10C spot where I can keep it, and I guess powerful lights are out of the quesiton.

My windowsill is right above a radiator, so it's a good place for germination, but I guess I should hold off growing until I get a better place with better located windows.

Are lophs more resistant to weaker lighting conditions? I have one surviving loph and it's looking a lot healthier and greener than the trich seedlings.


I'm at the northeast of the american continent, to give you an idea of climate.




Oh, and if I chop it up to root new sections, would I be better off waiting until spring?


Edited by synista (09/25/13 09:27 AM)


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Re: What to do with my t.bridgesii [Re: synista]
    #18888559 - 09/25/13 10:01 AM (10 years, 4 months ago)

You can try to keep your bridgesii without water as long as possible.. No water, away from heat radiator, and forget it.

If there is etiolation, cut the etiolated section away at spring when new season starts.

I don't kno where you grow your cactus at summer but I suggest to keep it very dry, let it shrink but not shrink to dead, also keep it away from heat sources(dark corner would be okay and let it relay on the wall if necessary)

So.. At spring you just cut winter growth away if there is some, start give some water to cactus at spring and then move it to very sunny location if you have some spot to grow it.

However, If you have not anything outdoor location and think to grow it indoors, then wait to spring and cut cactus to sections, let them callous and plant them to soil and grow more slim plants from logs. If you grow it outdoors at summer, don't chop it and do anything to it.. Let it just be dehydrated and shrink.. If temps are too high, give small amount of water but keep it very thirsty over the winter and if there is too much etiolated growth at top of cactus, cut it at spring and take a cutting to yourself.. I don't suggest to keep it near heat radiator at all.. Somewhere more cooler would be best spot like some kind of corner from house where is no heat radiators near.. And not a single drop of water unless cactus goes really really thirsty but trichocereus that size can manage many months without water so no worry..

It feels when cactus starts to shrink that you want to water it but don't.. it prevents etiolation.

Loph and also trichocereus seedlings do fine if day time is not so long.. Even few month old lophs can tolerate dry soil many days. Trichos can too kept dry and when seedlings in dry soil seems to shrink, water them littlebit... Lophs can survive without water many months even they are not even one year old. You can use some minor watering to seedlings and they do fine even light amount is poor.. Still some 20Watt cheap cfl bulb is easy to build and buy to keep light to seedlings, with this way you can water and grow them like summer but in the nature too, seedlings survive over dry  periods.. How many hours nature gives light to you at winter time? Do you even need extra light or if you have use it for seedlings and move the big cactus away from window and heat radiator and don't water it at all, check it at spring.. Cactus that size will tolerate any kind of conditions and you can cut winter ugly etiolation away at spring time.


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Edited by intelligentlife (09/25/13 10:09 AM)


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Invisiblesynista
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Re: What to do with my t.bridgesii [Re: synista]
    #18888668 - 09/25/13 10:37 AM (10 years, 4 months ago)

I have already moved the bridgesii to a corner in the hallway near the bathroom. It hasn't been watered at all for more than 3-4 weeks I think. It's the coldest and darkest spot in the apartment, probably around 20ish degrees, lower in winter.

This is my first time growing and taking care of cacti (as you can tell by my questions) so I don't know where I will grow it in summer. Most likely indoors, MAYBE outdoors, but the only option I have is my roommate's balcony, which also faces the northwest. It gets direct sun maybe 4-5 hours per day in the evening, otherwise it's indirect sunlight. Same for my window.

If I cut off the etiolated section in spring, do I root THAT section and leave the rest as it is?

These are my surviving seedlings, I'm keeping them on the windowsill and keeping the soil moist. Should I add a CFL or is the windowsill fine until they grow larger?

I'm thinking of getting more loph seeds because, if I understand correctly, they seem less demanding than columnars when it comes to light.




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Re: What to do with my t.bridgesii [Re: synista]
    #18889682 - 09/25/13 02:55 PM (10 years, 4 months ago)

Quote:

synista said:
I have already moved the bridgesii to a corner in the hallway near the bathroom. It hasn't been watered at all for more than 3-4 weeks I think. It's the coldest and darkest spot in the apartment, probably around 20ish degrees, lower in winter.

This is my first time growing and taking care of cacti (as you can tell by my questions) so I don't know where I will grow it in summer. Most likely indoors, MAYBE outdoors, but the only option I have is my roommate's balcony, which also faces the northwest. It gets direct sun maybe 4-5 hours per day in the evening, otherwise it's indirect sunlight. Same for my window.

If I cut off the etiolated section in spring, do I root THAT section and leave the rest as it is?

These are my surviving seedlings, I'm keeping them on the windowsill and keeping the soil moist. Should I add a CFL or is the windowsill fine until they grow larger?

I'm thinking of getting more loph seeds because, if I understand correctly, they seem less demanding than columnars when it comes to light.







Yes.. Lophophora is perfect to windowsill cactus.. It doesn't require space and stay compact.

If you want to grow some to consume, you can grow trichocereus at windowsill, chop your current cactus at spring to pieces, callous them, wait ~3weeks and plant every section to soil and let the sprout out branches as and they grow as fat as possible.. Also if you want you can assist cactus by keeping light above the window. I know for a fact that slim indoors windowsill grown trichocereus and outdoor grown are as potent no matter so much. Problem is that indoor grown plant you cannot measure the dosage from height of the plant so you need to prepare the dry flesh before ingesting.

If you are not in to ingesting cacti, I recommend you lophophora to windowsill but for their health, it's good to keep some dormancy for them wihout heat radiator below the plants. But they will manage very good whole their life at windowsill.. Trichocereus actually also but you have to go "bonsai" at some point with trichocereus cacti. They will grow meters long..

I am growing few various trichos, mostly indoors but at summer in greenhouse. I have south windows and soon I am getting a corner window what is perfect for cacti, there will be east and south window near by so I can get 180 degree angle for sun light even it's filtered trough glass.. I am living northern than arctic circle... There is actually now -1C outdoors.. End of the outdoor grow season.

Keep your cactus without water long time, let it go thirsty and soft cause lack of water, it may possible etiolate but not much cause cactus doesn't grow without water much even there is warm. Also lack of light makes them someway think it's dormancy even temperature doesn't drop..

As I have said.. some people there keep their cactus plants as houseplants, at winter there is no sunlight and they are doing fine, cacti plants are just going very dehydrated cause of dry and over the time they are used to actual almost same temperatures but summer comes when cactus get water after they are shriveled lots and day length starts to go longer. And winter also even with same temps but cacti are without water and shrivel lots and has not light at all, maybe hour or two or not at all.. Still there is none of etiolation cause they are just shriveled very small due to lack of water and still offshooting and flowering during summer when they got lots of water and grow again. I think you can grow your tricho same way, it should not etiolate so much as long as you don't water it before spring. If you see necessary, just moisten the surface of soil littlebit with spray but do not give lots of water, just keep plant alive. If there is warm at winter you need to give water atleast one time but very very small amount.

I have choose to grow cobulars like lophophoras just because I cannot grow cacti outdoors, they are good at windowsill, also if you can offer it some windowsill sun with heat they love it, keep them without water few months at winter when there is no light.. Lophs tolerate total darkness few months easily cause of slow growth and therefor you can dormant easily your lophs if you start grow them..

I can maybe know some sources for lophophora seeds.. problem is I am not in states and doesn't want to send illegal seeds anywhere.:rolleyes: ..lophs would be very good to your conditions what seems similar to mine, except I have south window and 150Watt meal halide light assist trichos not to etiolate at windowsill.

If you possible get your tricho soil temp somewhere below +20C at winter, it's good and growth will go slow and there are possible very less of etiolation or not at all.. Some people dormant their trichs in total darkness without any signs of etiolation but their temps are near +10C in garage or somewhere similar place. Best for you is find the coldest and possible some spot where cactus get even some light but just doesn't give water to it, it wills tops grow and shrivel instead even there is ~+20C temps.

However, lophs with ariocarpus cacti sounds perfect species to your conditions.:thumbup:


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Edited by intelligentlife (09/25/13 02:58 PM)


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Invisiblesynista
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Re: What to do with my t.bridgesii [Re: intelligentlife]
    #18893342 - 09/26/13 10:00 AM (10 years, 4 months ago)

Thanks man, I'll look more into loph seeds and cut the bridgresii in spring. I'm in Canada so they're somewhat easy to obtain. And as you can see I have some pereskiopsis so that should help with the lophs, although I prefer to have the original roots on them.

Thanks for the wisdom spreading, it's appreciated


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Re: What to do with my t.bridgesii [Re: synista]
    #18894122 - 09/26/13 01:51 PM (10 years, 4 months ago)

It's good to grow 2-3cm buttons or bigger with pereskiopsis, then take them as cuttings as root by themselves..

After 2-10years. Depends totally of size and age of button you cannot anymore see it has been fast grow frist years and you have own root peyote.

They are very compact and later on if you want big peyotes, pereskiopsis ain't the stock plant to go. You can actually use top etiolated sections from bridgesii for use later them as bigger root stock to grow bigger lophs but they ain't so nice than own roots grown loph.

I am considering "own root" peyote no matter if it's grafted as seedlnig and year or two later degrafted and then rest of it's life has grown as cutting to individual cactus.

It's not directly seed grown but skip the first hard and slow part of growing seedlings with pereskiopsis, then degrafting buttons(scions) to grow nice hard grown plants are okay, they can be still good looking plants even first or first two years they have grown at top of pereskiopsis..

I am huge fan of own root peyote cactus, doesn't matter is it a button or not. I am just starting to practice pereskiopsis graftings but permanent grafting stock isn't my purpose. Actually I see potential with pereskiopsis when doing a hybrids or someway cross breed between lophophora to speed up growth but button at size of 2-5cm grown at top of pereskiopsis is good to root on it's own, let it develop roots and start grow it's as plant on it's own roots. Just because of appearance of cactus. Nothing beats a hard grown cacti appearance... I have now grafts with stock used trichocereus, echinopsis and mythrillocactus. I keep 4 plants per one pot, another pot has 3 blue myrtle stock and one trichocereus with them. Also another pot is plants with echinopsis stocks and one stock is seedling tricho with 1cm button grafted to it.

This is my smallest graft with trichocereus and peyote this young grows along the plants with echinopsis stock:


I have done this kind of grafts from buttons 1-2cm size at summer, also few weeks ago are youngest grafts. I am actually try to find out a more permanent stock what still grows peyote more natural without plump them up so much.
There is few of my grafts. I was think to start produce peyote by this way, after few year I probably degraft these or something but I wan't to control appearance so that's why I don't use pereskiopsis..  These photos I took few minutes ago at dark with flashlight but most of my favourite peyote and ariocarpus for example growing on their own roots.


I have started to practice pereskiopsis and seedling grafts, not succeed yet but trying to see how I am doing at graft contest.:dancer:

You can actually later choose do you cut scion away from pereskiopsis, root the button and grow it like actual peyote or graft them to stocks like in my pictures if you want more natural appearance and bigger scions. As far as I have understand, pereskiopsis grafts never achieve the size of cactus with offshoots and all than peyote on own roots, young button rooted later you can achieve most likely peyote plants what cannot be seen are they even grown as grafted their first year or not.

Most disturbing is that I don't know the echinopsis stock cactus species exactly what it is but I like it, growth rate doesn't seem to be slower nor faster than with short tircho stocks. Mother plant of this echinopsis will produce dozens of offshoots with roots already to use as grafting stock as long as buttons are available to graft. Also they stay compact and don't need many inches of length when using as stock plant.
With seedlings these stocks would be hard but with older plants or regrafted pereskiopsis buttons, stocks like tricho, echinopsis, cereus, blue myrtle etc are good to use to get more compact and bigger peyotes grow as scion. These graft at my pics, my plan is to do degraft when they reach size of flowering or maybe size of adult wool and make few offshoots before I degraft them and let them to develop own tap root.

However, grafted peyote or peyote growing on own roots, possible your light levels are better to grow peyote instead of trichos.. Also I see you have columnar plants growing with peyote on same pot as seedlings, if you want, you can do graft like in my pictures where is small trichocereus seedlings grafted 1cm peyote button on top of it. Graft is done months ago so I know it works, also using smaller scions or seedlings as peyote scions ain't bad idea. Later on you can degraft, regraft or what ever you want.

But no matter of light, grafted peyote even stock is cactus needing light they will do fine.

Also you can use your columar bridgesii cactus by cutting it to few pots as logs for produce etiolated stocks. Etiolated trichocereus is good to use for grafting, scion will attach easily to soft tissue what etiolated parts are.

There is one etiolated tricho used as stock in pics but I have better picture from it below there, there is 2months time period between pictures:


So in nutshell: chop at spring your bridgesii to 15-20cm pieces, let them callous, plant them properly and wait rooting.. After roots has come out, in your light conditions you can get nice 1,5cm thick slim trichocereus and cut them for stocks. 1,5cm slim and let say 10cm long etiolated part of trichocereus are very good to take scion with less effort cause it's as soft as bigger cactus top where usually grafts are done. That way you can do compact grafting stocks from your columnar and cut sections to use as stock.. Also callousing slim but 10-15cm long trichos are fast and they root relatively quick. And best of all you have actually a cactus already to start produce stocks for your regrafts if you want to move scion from perskiopsis to trichocereus to let cactus grow bigger and more natural shape, also success with etiolated trichos cause they are soft are good and attach of scion is fast.

Later on you can start your own graft garden of lophophoras.. :eskimokiss:

I have slim cuttings as short as 3cm waiting to produce roots and then I can use them as grafting stocks.. There is trichocereus and blue myrtle cuttings from size to 3cm to 15cm. I have taken these when I have done grafts and took tops for using later as new stock.


There is picture from graft where stock cactus top is rooting at empty pot with another trichos, I have done crested san pedro graft and took top of the tricho for use as graft later. It's very easy to use etiolated sections of trichocereus as stock for lophophora buttons or what ever you like, Also I have TBM crest grafted to similar stock and top of the stock is sitting on empty pot waiting to grow roots.


As the time pass by, you can start nice graft garden used to lower light than trichos need, also you can always cut the scions away and root them on their own as I said up there. Grafting with bigger plants than pereskiopsis and seedlings, you need pressure for week or two to scion to ensure they attach properly. I use superglue with rubber bands to graft buttons or another cacti to trichocereus, blue myrtle or echinopsis.

You have great start there.. Sow peyote seeds, grow them on pereskiopsis and then regraft them to your own produced tricho stocks or use buttons as cuttings and grow them as their own roots, after years pass by, few centimeter button degrafted is identical to seed grown cactus after they are more older and appearance starts to go more hard grown. Big plants grown on top of trichocereus are difference with appearance than younger buttons grown to adults as cuttings.

Depends on your purposes, if you want to grow mescaline for consumption, go with peyote and pereskiopsis and trichos.. If you want more decorational way, use trichos or don't use stocks at all, just root the buttons from stock to soil and let buttons develop root system and grow as they are seed grown plants year later when tap root has developed.

Also one thing, you can chop bridgesii to 3-4 pieces, root them and took slim cuttings from offhoots to use as grafting stocks later if you want to use your big columnar cactus to something, producing grafting stocks from it's offshoots would be best idea cause if you don't have efficient light enough to offer your columnar bridgesii, it doesn't grow so beautiful and good way to use it is making a factory of grafting stocks from it. At poor light grown offshoots are growing fast height and they are good to use as stock for peyote cactus or whatever cactus you want to grow. But seriously thinking your said light levels, I would chop the bridgesii to "factory or graft stocks" possible to multiple pots and grow slim trichos where you graft your plants.. I have experience of grafting to etiolated trichocereus, they are taking easily the scion if you just use some pressure to it.

Example of using rubber bands is in the picture, I think it's easier to show pics than write so get the point out. There rubber bands are get round the pot and scion to keep pressure, also I have used super glue what will later after months wears off. This is same crest san pedro graft some days after graft


Also miniature grafts with seedling stocks are possible to do.. I have done TBM crest graft to very small blue myrtle stock and later took some super glue away around it. This has been attached, I just wait it starts growth like san pedro crest has shown.


Also that size miniature grafts used seedlings as stock needs rubber bands and possible super glue ...but glue is not necessary, it just helps to keep scion at place cause rubber bands can cause pressure to wrong way and drop the scion from top of stock.

Hope you success with your work and considering your light amount, I suggest to start a peyote graft garden and possible regraft and degraft process when time pass by.


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Edited by intelligentlife (09/26/13 02:06 PM)


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Re: What to do with my t.bridgesii [Re: synista]
    #18898862 - 09/27/13 02:03 PM (10 years, 4 months ago)

I'll definitely do what you're suggesting, except I might use some of that bridgesii for consumption, depending on my mood/available time when the time comes.

I'll be ordering some loph seeds as well.


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Re: What to do with my t.bridgesii [Re: synista]
    #18899379 - 09/27/13 04:11 PM (10 years, 4 months ago)

While I'm here... I have one of these lying around:

<SNIP>

It emits a strong UV free blue light from LED, and I hear plants love them blue lights. I'm just not sure if it's a good idea to have it on for long periods since it's designed to be used at short intervals.

Mod edit : Please read the EG rules http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/7399068

Quote:


  • Links to sponsors are allowed as long as it adds to the value of the thread and is not marketing the product. No non sponsor links are allowed, this includes links to auction sites!





Edited by Mostly_Harmless (09/27/13 11:46 PM)


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Re: What to do with my t.bridgesii [Re: synista]
    #18900973 - 09/27/13 10:31 PM (10 years, 4 months ago)

I would buy a plant light. Actually regular desk lights you can fit bulb what you can use as light.

To tricho cause they grow actually later at the size of a big tree, they need more and more root space and grow more size. Lophs stay compact and for example one 10-15cm clay pot you can use for dozens of years old loph without pot starts to get too small.. Usually when plant it very big, peyote needs space for roots cause most of it grows beneath the soil, even these what has first year grown as grafted and then degrafted.

There is around cheap light bulbs as strong as 300Wattage without needing anything advices to connect between the electric wires. HPS and MH bulb connection needs some knowledge of electricity but they are good for trichos, and actually best for lophs if power is only 70-150Watt per one bulb.. They gives nice strong light and more wattage per bulb, more lux per square meter light generate.

I am using for seedling light bulb what needs 40mm wide socket where it will used to attach, it can be wired directly to plug at the wall cause it's cfl bulb. Power of it is informed about 125Wattage but I tested it out with device use how much consumption my heaters and lights take, it's worth of 111Watt light and good for seedlings and even few year old lophs. Also I use that light for cuttings as well. Metal Halide bulb is for another plants and now lophs doesn't get direct artificial light, they are at windowsill and 2meter away from light source. I water them once more small amount of water and then after water I let them start winter by disconnect heat pads from them..

There is lots of cheap good cfl choices you can pick from internet stores with only few dollars to tens of dollars of price.. Ofc if you but only parts and assembly your own, you save few buck but. If you want to make sure light works and you don't break it, but already assembled reflector, bulb and wire so only you need is hooks to roof where you can hang the light.. Or buy 2x2inch wood and build support to hang your light with chains, also when there is hooks above, you can adjust how far light is by moving it easily by changing the chain to the hook to rise or decrease the light reflector what hangs above where ever you want to use it.

Easiest solution is these moveable desk lights with cfl bulb on them, they give enough light for seedlings and small peyotes, also at summer using windowsill light as extra you can grow peyote for years.

You can try your light what you show but I suggest more large scale light spectrum to light used for cacti.


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Edited by intelligentlife (09/27/13 10:32 PM)


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