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Offlineraisinbrannan
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Registered: 07/28/13
Posts: 50
Last seen: 7 days, 12 hours
List of general tips I've learned and stuff that was hard to find.
    #18805355 - 09/05/13 09:47 PM (10 years, 4 months ago)

Going to update it as I go. Needs more details in some area's, like what is the right gypsum etc. But here ya go! I just started like 2 weeks ago so feel free to critique any of it.

General

  • If you skip cakes and go straight to bulk, start small because it’s easy to make mistakes at first.
  • A lot of small monotub’s are better than 1 huge one in case of contam’s, user error, and other complications.
  • Mycelium like light through the entire grow. Have a 12 on/12 off cycle from day 1. But only use ambient light. Use strong ambient sunlight or a 6500k light bulb only for fruiting.
  • Mycelium can be very fragile and slow. Be patient.
  • Removing the lid and taping the top/outside of your mono (create a square for the saran wrap) and putting saran wrap as a lid will allow you take see clearly into the monotub. I’ve never seen anyone use this tek I just did it because I wanted to take a time lapse.
  • If you get mold in jars, separate from other jars and boil for 1 hour. If you get mold on your substrate, dump it outside in the shade and hope that Mother Nature will take care of it. Cover the substrate with moss, dirt, leaves, or anything that holds moisture and gives shade.
  • A 1/2 pint cake will yield ~3 grams dry. This is just an estimate.


Inoculation
  • Most people agree that rye berries are better for inoculating to bulk.
  • Brown rice flour has the highest nutrients:weight and is best for cakes.
  • Don’t forget polyfill if you’re using syringe to inoculate
  • Let grains drip dry before putting them in PC (the grains should appear dry but you want them to still be moist)
  • The tyvek under your jar’s lid needs to be big enough to reach over the rim, but the more it reaches over the more likely it will get wet from the pc. Or the bigger the foil will have to be,
  • If your grains were wet before pressure cooking and the jars have lids with tape or tyvek then do not worry about humidity levels inside the jar.
  • The temp in the jars will be higher than the temp outside the jars. Aim for 75-80°.
  • Jars can take 3+ days before showing signs of growth.
  • Jars will take about 5-15+ days to colonize. (so far g2g is about 7 and syringe is about 13 ime).
  • That yellow stuff in your jars is just metabolites, don’t worry about it.
  • Shake grain jars at 30% colonization. I sometimes shake again at ~95% if some grains aren’t showing growth.



Colonizing
  • The thicker your substrate layer, the longer it will take. If using a high ratio of spawn:substrate, mix them together or do multiple small layers.
  • I think the best way is to mix most of your substrate with all your spawn in your tub, then add a layer of substrate on the top. This makes it so all the grains are covered and it should colonize the fastest.
  • Your yield will equal the weight of the nutrients in your bulk substrate. So vermiculate is only used to add moisture because it has low/zero nutrients. Manure has more nutrients than coir. Manure by itself is too dense, so coir and straw are used to add fluff. 1:1:1 of manure:verm:coir(or straw) is fine. So is %50/30/20 manure/verm/coir. Just pick whatever feels best. Gypsum helps balance PH and and essential nutrients. Add in 5-10%, do not count towards total weight because it will dissolve in water.
  • Gypsum can be purchased at Ace hardware. You can also use sheetrock that has not been treated with fungicide.
  • PH balancers (Calcium Carbonate, etc.) are usually not necessary for bulk grows. Sometimes tap water or manure will be slightly off though. Spring water may solve that.
  • When aiming for field capacity of your substrate, lower is better than higher because you can just add water if it’s low. But too high can add many complications.
  • DO NOT PASTEURIZE IN THE MICROWAVE, IT’S VERY UNRELIABLE.
  • Bring the temp up slowly while pasteurizing, and turn off the heat ~120°. It will continue to rise after. If the lid is a good fit it should stay above 140 for the entire hour.
  • Pasteurizing for more than 2 hours is not recommended but can still work.
  • When pasteurizing, you need all of the substrate above 140°. If some of it goes above 160° that’s okay. Good bacteria dies above 160° but since some of the substrate is still in the safe zone it should spread to the all of the mix.
  • Once properly pasteurized, it shouldn’t get mold for 2 weeks. It is not necessary to be completely sterile after that but it does not hurt.
  • When cutting your plastic liner for the bottom of your monotub, flip the monotub upside-down and cover the bottom (that is now the top) of your monotub. Place a book/weight on top of the plastic so it won’t move and you will have a perfectly fit tub liner.
  • You can heat a quarter/round metal object to put FAE holes in your monotub. A round drill bit also works and is better for the environment.
  • Smell your jars before birthing to bulk or cakes. If it smells sour or off, do not use it.
  • Home depot has thermometer/hygrometer for ~$3.
  • If you’re going to tape a hygrometer inside your FC, tape it really, really well or it will fall off from condensation.
  • You can tape all your FAE holes while it’s colonizing if your lid doesn’t completely seal, it only needs some air exchange.
  • You should not mist or open while colonizing.
  • Don’t open your montub while it’s colonizing, it needs the gas for fastest colonization.
  • Mold will stick to you, if you come in contact with mold during your day, make sure to change clothes and shower before going into your grow room.
  • Salt will kill everything it touches, do not cover your substrate in salt and expect it to live. But it is useful to kill off small patches of mold. You can also clean a spoon/knife with rubbing alcohol and cut it out.
  • Do not use masking tape to cover your holes, it will not block airflow but will cause pinning too early.
  • Do not initiate fruiting before your substrate is 100% fully colonized.
  • When you see your first pins you will feel like a proud parent and it’s awesome.
  • It will take about 4+ days from when you see pins until when you harvest. (2 days-2 weeks)
  • Colonized substrate can turn yellow if it’s too dry. It could also be metabolites and a few other things.


Fruiting
  • Most stores do not carry 6500k lights. I went to 5 stores and only found 1 at Ace hardware.
  • The wattage of the light bulb doesn’t matter. You just want it as close to 6500k wavelength as possible and want to be able to see the light covering your fruiting chambers. Higher lumens will cover more area.
  • Evaporation of condensation will cause pinning/growth. Mist ~2 times a day and fan after misting. Also fan through the day as long as the humidity is above 90.
  • A hairdryer on the low/cool setting works well for fanning.
  • 12 hours of light and 12 of dark is recommended.
  • You can take out 1 (or all) of the polyfill while it’s fruiting if it needs more fresh air. But the more you take out the less it’s able to filter the new air.
  • Too little fresh air will cause short stems. Too little humidity will cause the caps to crack and hinder growth. Too much fresh air will cause low humidity.
  • Harvest right before the veils break for most weight/potency (before the cap separates from the stem). Instantly after the veil breaks is okay too.
  • Scoop or twist/pull gently to harvest. It is best not to cut or tear them because this will expose the inside to air and lose alkaloids.


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