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Note that these are commonly called a number of different things, most commonly a "cool mist." This can be misleading as sometimes ultrasonics are labelled as "cool mist." Check to make sure your humidifier uses a filter before purchasing.

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The ultrasonic is a $60 ultrasonic, also from a department store during winter months.  It holds 1.25 gallons of water (I believe).

I bought these with no particular specifics in mind, the only thing you should consider is how often you want to fill them (capacity) and if they fit in your GH (very important.)  Just stay away from foggers meant for reptile terrariums and other small or low-capacity ultrasonics, you'll be filling them constantly.



It's very easy to overthink a greenhouse. Here's the adjustable variables as I see them:

Humidity (surface): Each substrate in the greenhouse gets cased to provide a nice microclimate of 99% RH at the surface of the substrate where it matters. The ultrasonic provides a "misting" by running 15 minutes on every 1-2 hours. This keeps the casing layer moist but never wet.

Humidity (environment): An evaporative humidifier is used to buffer the RH levels inside the GH.  My humidifier in my environment keeps the RH level at a minimum of 85%. Every one hour the ultrasonic is on for 15 minutes and the RH jumps up for a bit.

FAE: As much as possible. I run my evaporative humidifer 24/7 for my edibles that don't mind a bit lower RH in the chamber. For cubes I have been finding my casing layers dry up too quickly. To compensate, the cool mist is on 30 min then off for 30. The ultrasonic runs 15 min on every hour, right after the cool mist shuts off You can adjust the amount of FAE by how zipped/unzipped the curtain is on the sides.



Here's how it is set up, it's very simple:

Two 4-tier wire shelves back to back. Ultrasonic on the top, evaporative humidifier on the bottom corner. Curtains unzipped 1/4 of the way on both sides.



Curtains pulled back by the evaporative humidifer for good FAE.



Timer for the ultrasonic is 15 minutes on every one-two hours.



I use only distilled water in the ultrasonic. This way I never need to worry about scaling and buildup ruining the fogger disc.

The scaling on the evaporative humidifer gets cleaned once a month with vinegar, a good soak and scrubbing will break all those mineral deposits off. The filter/wick gets washed off every two weeks and changed every month or two.

Other than filling the humidifiers, it is pretty much set-n-forget.



I have messed with a few different GH setups in the past, here's that shit I don't like:

1) Impellers. These fucking things never failed to soak my GH, no matter how many slits or timings I tried. Too much wet, too loud, too much maintenance.

2) Computer fans. I know they work for a lot of people but I want TONS of FAE in my GH.  Even larger computer fans have never satisfied me.

3) Hygrotherm. It's a cheap humidity/temp controller intended for reptile terrariums.  Precision humidity control may have its perks, but the humidity I care about is at the surface of the substrate. It was a waste of $90.

4) Slits. I don't like cutting up my GH

5) Piping in the humidifiers from the outside. I've found it unnecessary and a pain in the ass.


Cubensis, WBS bag:


P. Galindoi:




King oyster:



There are a million ways to dial this in for different species, but I am sticking to the basics because more specific greenhouse methods are something you will need to figure out given your specific environment and conditions.

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Saint Stephen said:
How small can a green house be and still be work? My pmp is running out of room. i was hoping to use maybe 3 tiers of shelves?

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You can scale it down. You just need to adjust your ultrasonic timings accordingly so you don't flood your GH

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cronicr said:
all thats missing are the mushrooms;)

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FrankHorrigan said:

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Link is in the OP

I don't have any recent active grows in the GH. It's kept in a cold room for kings most of the year and I didn't figure many folks here would find that as interesting as they do over in GMM

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veda_sticks said:
And because your using a casing layer its more tolerent of lower RH plus having an ultrasonic come on its keeping effectivly misting the casing layer and the water that evaporates from the casing layer is also helping to contribute to humidity?

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Pretty much, yeah

By itself the wick type humidifier will not provide humidity higher than 86% IME. It really does work great to disperse the moisture from the ultrasonic around though.

So the wick type humidifier is really just for constant FAE + maintaining a certain minimum RH for the environment. The ultrasonic takes care of the rest.

If you don't want to case your trays, then it's just a matter of adjusting your ultrasonic timings to make sure the substrate doesn't dry up too fast.  If you really wanted to get fancy you can put the cool mist on a timer as well, but I love my 24/7 FAE

I prefer casing them for the GH as well.

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FrankHorrigan said:

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veda_sticks said:
And because your using a casing layer its more tolerent of lower RH plus having an ultrasonic come on its keeping effectivly misting the casing layer and the water that evaporates from the casing layer is also helping to contribute to humidity?

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Pretty much, yeah

By itself the wick type humidifier will not provide humidity higher than 86% IME. It really does work great to disperse the moisture from the ultrasonic around though.

So the wick type humidifier is really just for constant FAE + maintaining a certain minimum RH for the environment. The ultrasonic takes care of the rest.

If you don't want to case your trays, then it's just a matter of adjusting your ultrasonic timings to make sure the substrate doesn't dry up too fast.  If you really wanted to get fancy you can put the cool mist on a timer as well, but I love my 24/7 FAE

I prefer casing them for the GH as well.

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