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luvdemboomers
loner with a boner
Registered: 01/11/13
Posts: 5,054
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Safes
#17880279 - 02/28/13 01:45 PM (11 years, 2 months ago) |
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I'm looking for a good combination safe for under 500, preferably under 300. Nothing made by sentry or honeywell. Any suggestions?
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Ellis Dee
Archangel



Registered: 06/29/01
Posts: 13,104
Loc: Fire in the sky
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The most secure safe you can get is the round kind that gets cemented in your basement floor and has some kind of rods going around the sides. My pal who is a master locksmith says it's the only kind other than bank vault that'll take him hours to get open. It's something about not being able to drill it from the side and so you have to cut each bolt around the circumference separately which will take forever an be very very expensive, much more than the safe is worth... If you have a washing machine or something over that no one will ever even know it's there, and it's tougher to get in to than a jeweler's safe so don't lose your combination or bash in the top part. I think this is the kind he was telling me about but not quite sure.
http://www.maximumsecurity.com/safes/pc/Floor-Safe-C3-10p56.htm#.US_ZsFc3SM8
http://www.maximumsecurity.com/
-------------------- "If the foundations be destroyed, what can the righteous do."-King Solomon And there was war in heaven: Michael and his angels fought against the dragon; and the dragon fought and his angels,
Edited by Ellis Dee (02/28/13 03:35 PM)
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joshisstoned
Motorcycle Enthusiast


Registered: 05/24/09
Posts: 3,544
Loc: Ohio
Last seen: 9 years, 9 months
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Rail is right. A safe is only as strong as its secured! Most thieves make off with the safe, and just saw it open later. So....I like his train of thought. But yeah. A hiding spot is better I think. My due finished his basement and just cut four feet off one end for a super stealth room. He could put a safe in there, but thered be no point as you would never know it was there unless you knew specifically knew about it. idk.
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luvdemboomers
loner with a boner
Registered: 01/11/13
Posts: 5,054
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Thanks for the responses. I should have specified stealth isn't really a concern as it will probably be in an apartment or a rented room until I move. My main concern is that it is heavy and damn hard to crack without moving it (even from someone that knows what he is doing) No one will try to get into it without moving it. That being said, which of these do you think would be a better option?
http://www.maximumsecurity.com/safes/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=85#.UTAeKle4p3E
or http://www.safeandvaultstore.com/productdetails/1128
The first safe weighs 25 pounds less and after shipping it is $30 more.
Edited by luvdemboomers (02/28/13 08:29 PM)
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Ellis Dee
Archangel



Registered: 06/29/01
Posts: 13,104
Loc: Fire in the sky
Last seen: 5 years, 2 months
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If someone knows what they're doing they can crack those safes in under a minute or two, I'm sure. They're also small enough that they could simply be carried away and worked on at the leisure of the thief. Anything other than a 15,000 jeweler's safe or vault and you're talking about something a locksmith can open within minutes if not seconds. That's why the circular cement embedded floor safes are an anomaly for the value. They're actually as time consuming to open as a real jeweler's safe with hardened ball bearings between walls to resist drilling.
I have a small cheap sentry fire safe with some important insurance papers and the title to my car and stuff in it. I leave the key in it in case a burglar happens upon it they'll just open it, realize the contents are worthless to them and abandon it instead of taking it with them. I keep some valuables in a safe deposit box in my bank. If I were to invest in a real safe I'd go for the circular floor safe, but like you I rent. If I had something I didn't want to be found and didn't want access to often I'd by some PVC pipe with two endcaps and bury it wrapped in plastic. Stealth is the best, really. If you must have a safe then be sure it's suitable for what you need it for. Is it to keep a gun away from a child or is it to foil a determined safe cracker? If it's for child safety or fire safety don't bother with a real safe when a simple gun safe will do the job just as well.
PS
My understanding of why the circular cement embedded floor safes take so long to open is a large part because there is nothing to mount the tools against to use the tools that would demolish a jeweler's safe in an hour. And I'm really just repeating shop talk about this. I have no first hand knowledge about it. I'd suggest you pay a visit to a local locksmith or two to verify what I'm telling you. But with my locksmith friend I have seen him take apart locks with broken pins in them in under 30 seconds. If a safe will take a master locksmith 6 or 8 hours to get in to it'll take your average slob thief weeks probably. But if it can be carried away they'll take the whole thing and then rent whatever tools they need to break it open after they figure out their sledgehammer and crowbar will only scratch the paint.
-------------------- "If the foundations be destroyed, what can the righteous do."-King Solomon And there was war in heaven: Michael and his angels fought against the dragon; and the dragon fought and his angels,
Edited by Ellis Dee (02/28/13 09:57 PM)
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Fungi01
John Plischke



Registered: 06/29/08
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Loc: Western Pennsylvania
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You can get a real safe perhaps 80-100 years old on craigs list if you look for a while much cheaper and less that 200 dollars
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Subverted


Registered: 01/02/13
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Last seen: 8 years, 11 months
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Quote:
Rail_Gun said: If someone knows what they're doing they can crack those safes in under a minute or two, I'm sure.
Yes, you are correct, most cheap safes with digital locks can be opened disturbingly easy with just one tool...or none at all in a lot of cases. Im not going to elaborate more on this so I dont give people ideas but it is very simple to get into most somewhat inexpensive safes.
Quote:
If a safe will take a master locksmith 6 or 8 hours to get in to it'll take your average slob thief weeks probably. But if it can be carried away they'll take the whole thing and then rent whatever tools they need to break it open after they figure out their sledgehammer and crowbar will only scratch the paint.
If it takes a master locksmith more than 2hrs to open up any safe, aside from a vault door, via a technique other than manipulation...they are doing it wrong or have the wrong drilling templates and bits. Other than that little nitpick you are right on the money.
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Fungi01 said: You can get a real safe perhaps 80-100 years old on craigs list if you look for a while much cheaper and less that 200 dollars
Safes that are that old, imo, should not really be used if you are wanting security. Their relocking systems are very often so primitive they barely function. Also worth noting that I have heard of and seen old safes that contain dangerous chemicals/materials (glass vials of teargas anyone?) to deter thieves attempting to destructively break in. These are extremely hazardous to work around and in some cases the owners of the safes do not even realize what is lurking within the door!
If you purchase an older safe you will likely spend the price difference having it serviced by a locksmith and the lock replaced or at least the combination changed.
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