|
Some of these posts are very old and might contain outdated information. You may wish to search for newer posts instead.
|
serotonin storm
Don't be scared, homie!


Registered: 07/15/12
Posts: 1,178
Loc: Holland
|
Problems with lime.
#17339693 - 12/05/12 05:10 PM (12 years, 1 month ago) |
|
|
I've got 3 pan trays that are ready to be cased, but I can't find hydrated lime anywhere. It's nowhere in this town
This is the best I can find, it is essentially pulverized/powdered limestone.

I read RR saying not to use oyster shells because that doesn't do anything for the short term ph and its for long term. I also read a post that magnesium should only be at a concentrate of around 6%. I think the number was 6, but it could've potentially been lower. The stuff I have is 12% magnesium. Should I not use this stuff or should I use it at a smaller ratio?
-------------------- Trade List
|
Tmethyl
Smear in the shale


Registered: 07/16/12
Posts: 16,431
Loc: Florida
Last seen: 2 years, 3 months
|
|
Anything above 5% magnesium will be detrimental to mycelium.
I honestly think this is over complicating the process though (50/50 casing), just my opinion. The best casing I've used on pans is more of the substrate, but slightly wetter than field capacity. It performs just as well as anything else and is still very contam resistant.
I grow most of my pans in dung, so after the tray is finished colonizing I pasteurize one or two more quarts of dung, little wetter than usual, and apply a thin casing over the pan substrate. I also had the same issue of finding the proper lime, and had to order it online. I used it all making 50/50 casings all of which did well, but none of which did better than straight dung.
-------------------- ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
|
serotonin storm
Don't be scared, homie!


Registered: 07/15/12
Posts: 1,178
Loc: Holland
|
Re: Problems with lime. [Re: Tmethyl]
#17339778 - 12/05/12 05:27 PM (12 years, 1 month ago) |
|
|
I thought the point of the casing was to be non nutritious, that's interesting that you found good results with poo. Did you mix it with verm or anything?
And because my stuff has too much mg, could I just use less or is that not an option?
Also, what do you think about grinding up oyster shell, into powder, in place of hydrated lime, do you think powdering would give it the benefits that, for comparison, taking off a time release coating of pill would?
-------------------- Trade List
|
Tmethyl
Smear in the shale


Registered: 07/16/12
Posts: 16,431
Loc: Florida
Last seen: 2 years, 3 months
|
|
I think my last mixture was something like 60% horse dung 40% verm. A non nutritious casing is best because it won't contam, but dung is already highly contam resistant because of the high levels of beneficial bacteria in it (if pasteurized). So it is in effect, the exact same concept. Contam resistance.
I have no experience with oyster shell use. I would not recommend using that lime at all, I would return it. www.out-grow.com has very cheap hydrated lime, the right kind. If you really want to make some 50/50 casing.
-------------------- ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
|
Tmethyl
Smear in the shale


Registered: 07/16/12
Posts: 16,431
Loc: Florida
Last seen: 2 years, 3 months
|
Re: Problems with lime. [Re: Tmethyl]
#17339855 - 12/05/12 05:42 PM (12 years, 1 month ago) |
|
|
Here is some info you may like to read:
Quote:
I have found NO NECESSITY for LIME with Pans. Straight peat/perlite casing at a layer less then 1/4 inch works absolutely fine for me. PANS are FAST as hell. After casing, incubate for 24-48 hours at room temp(75-80F) and right into the fruiting chamber they go. pH is a concern for slower casing colonization and slow pin sets. Also for long term casings. I wouldn't imagine you would need to buffer with anything other then coarse lime, if you feel more comfortable with the LIME suggestions around about. Anything in the same range as cubensis will work FINE.
Quote:
THE USE of Manure or manure straw DRASTICALLY increases yield(approx. 7-14 times the yield) and decreases contamination rate, speed to flush, and just about everything else.
Quote:
OK...the good part
Use a plastic tray…Mix all your spawn with zoodoo/compost or dung/compost. I use 8 jars to 5 pounds of that. If you use any store bought compost strain out all the wood,…sticks..woodchips..etc. You can nuke your dung/compost in a microwave for 10 minutes. If you have obtained dung or compost from a garden, pasteurize it.
Once you have done all this…cover your trays and let them sit for a couple days. Now…check out your trays….do you see mycelium growing? If so…what I do is…case them with a layer of the same dung/compost. Use about a ¼ inch only. Give them a GOOD misting and give them light.
Now your back to the regular cubensis teks….fan and mist as necessary.
This is the best single link you could ever read concerning pans, THIS method works very fucking well: (I think it's written by Ralphster) https://www.shroomery.org/8694/Panaeolus-Species-Cultivation (ignore the top part of this, he's just talking about making the spawn, using some weird pf tek style WBS mixture, it's useless text
-------------------- ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
|
serotonin storm
Don't be scared, homie!


Registered: 07/15/12
Posts: 1,178
Loc: Holland
|
Re: Problems with lime. [Re: Tmethyl]
#17339897 - 12/05/12 05:49 PM (12 years, 1 month ago) |
|
|
Very interesting. I think I may try some different casing methods and materials.
-------------------- Trade List
|
Tmethyl
Smear in the shale


Registered: 07/16/12
Posts: 16,431
Loc: Florida
Last seen: 2 years, 3 months
|
|
You can see the results Ralphster got with using straight dung casing, it's better than my results sadly lol.
-------------------- ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
|
Beefy1
GONE


Registered: 05/01/09
Posts: 3,573
Loc: around
|
|
You could make your own using that limestone if you really can't find any hydrated lime.
Heat some of that limestone until it is red hot then dump it in a bucket of water.
Do this outside, only do a small amount at a time.
Calcium carbonate turns to calcuim oxide with heat, calcium oxide mixed with water gives you calcium hydroxide- hydrated lime.
I wouldn't worry about the magnesium levels. You're just using it to sdjust pH.
Use gyspsum in your substrate for calcium and sulfur.
|
serotonin storm
Don't be scared, homie!


Registered: 07/15/12
Posts: 1,178
Loc: Holland
|
Re: Problems with lime. [Re: Beefy1]
#17339977 - 12/05/12 06:02 PM (12 years, 1 month ago) |
|
|
I'm glad you chimed in with that. I really was hoping to get use out of this, it's a 50lbs bag.
Have you done this before?
EDIT: in regards to a ph testing kit, wal mart didn't have any soil testing kits, would a water ph kit work? They use strips, similar to a soil testing kit and look almost the same
-------------------- Trade List
Edited by serotonin storm (12/05/12 06:10 PM)
|
Beefy1
GONE


Registered: 05/01/09
Posts: 3,573
Loc: around
|
|
Yes.
But not with 50 lbs.
You burn too much energy heating it up for it to be economical. It woudn't be worth it to try to convert the whole bag.
I'm talking about just a few ounces at a time. Enough for a few casing layers
an amount you can easily heat on a gas stove or with a propane torch.
For the pH strips- All I use are fish tank testing strips.
Just squeeze a few drops of water out of the substrate or casing onto the strip.
|
serotonin storm
Don't be scared, homie!


Registered: 07/15/12
Posts: 1,178
Loc: Holland
|
Re: Problems with lime. [Re: Beefy1]
#17340406 - 12/05/12 07:16 PM (12 years, 1 month ago) |
|
|
Yeah no I wouldn't be attempting all 50lbs at one time.
How do you go about doing just a few ounces
-------------------- Trade List
|
Beefy1
GONE


Registered: 05/01/09
Posts: 3,573
Loc: around
|
|
I take an old stainless steel spoon, fill it with crushed or powdered limestone,
Heat that spoonful of limestone using a gas flame until it glows red (the limestone, not the spoon). I use a small propane torch. A gas stove should also work.
Heating limestone drives off carbon dioxide, leaving you with a spoonful of Calcium Oxide.
Take that spoonful of CaO, drop it in a bucket of water. ( it can be hot, don't even have to let it cool)
your first spoonful will just dissolve in the water. Keep adding more and it should start to settle out at the bottom. Evaporate the water or just pour it off and collect the stuff at the bottom.
Dry it under low heat. Too much heat and it will turn back to CaO.
Use a large amount of water- the reaction as it turns from CaO to Ca(OH)2 is exothermic. If you use a tiny cup of water it might boil and splash lime all over the place.
It's a fairly safe process as long as you don't burn yourself or splash limewater in your eyes.
|
serotonin storm
Don't be scared, homie!


Registered: 07/15/12
Posts: 1,178
Loc: Holland
|
Re: Problems with lime. [Re: Beefy1]
#17340861 - 12/05/12 08:39 PM (12 years, 1 month ago) |
|
|
Interesting. I actually might give this a try.
-------------------- Trade List
|
|