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Offlineelkart
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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: Tmethyl]
    #17286251 - 11/26/12 06:00 PM (11 years, 5 months ago)


Invitro pinning

Hyphal knots, primordia, and pins


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Shroom Honey Preservation Tek

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OfflineTmethylM
Smear in the shale
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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: elkart]
    #17286364 - 11/26/12 06:14 PM (11 years, 5 months ago)

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Supplies & Materials


The SGFC, this is a model employing a saran wrapped lid, since it did not come with a transparent lid.
A proper SGFC should have 1/4"(6mm) holes spaced 2" apart in a grid pattern on all 6 sides(top and bottom) it is then filled with 5" of damp perlite. The chamber must also be raised so that air can pass up thru the bottom holes, and wick up moisture from the water evaporating off the perlite, this will create a very humid environment inside the chamber. An SGFC works off of the natural air currents in a room with no fans, mess with those currents and your humidity drops. NOTE: If your indoor humidity is less than 40%, the SGFC becomes quite troublesome to maintain, keep your indoor humidity as high as possible, use a cheap humidifier - Notahacker420

1) 1/2 pint very wide, not suitable for PF tek or anything other than Agar work, imo. 2) 1/2 Pint wide mouth, these are the optimal jars for PF tek/BRF cakes. 3) 1/2 pint tall widemouth, works for PF tek, but not optimal, will have longer colonization times. 4) 1 pint widemouth, not a good idea for PF tek, but can work for other special activities, such as grain spawns, or very big cakes. 5) 1 pint regular mouth, used for same reasons as #4. 6) 1 Quart jar, the preferred jar for any type of grain spawn, these also come in wide mouth  -  Tmethyl

Vermiculite, used for many teks in mushroom cultivation. This can be added up to 50% in almost every substrate. It is also used a filter layer in the PF tek, as well as being used as a main component to the substrate, a time-tested and very popular material to mycology. It also comes in a few different grades, large, medium, small, fine. The picture below is a small grade, and optimal for PF tek. Vermiculite has not only nutrients fungi love, but also provides a texture and other properties not yet fully understood that increase yields and pinsets.  Plant growers will tell you vermiculite has no nutrients(which they're also wrong about), but for fungi, vermiculite provides an excellent supplement - Tmethyl

Poly-fill, used in monotubs as a filter material, can also be used as a GE (gas exchange) filter for spawn jars. The same stuff thats in your teddy bears, and pillows. But do not use old polyfill, it's likely loaded with contaminants - Tmethyl

Wax Paper, used for wax paper casing - an unpublished unwritten tek created by RogerRabbit. Wax paper makes a great casing, by holding a pin inducing micro-climate just above the substrate, while still allowing light in. This is very important especially if you cannot provide an optimal fruiting environment in your fruiting chamber/monotub/Greenhouse. To apply it, cut off a piece roughly the size of your substrate, crumple it into a ball in your hands, uncrumple it, then blanket it on top of the substrate. Lift it to mist and fan as usual, and replace ever 2-3 days, or when it becomes soggy. This is best used on bulk substrates.
A new method of using wax paper which has proven a success: (for cakes)
To add wax paper to cakes which are not pinning very well, or taking to long to pin. Form a cup of wax paper by wrapping some wax paper around the jar that the cakes were colonized in. Place it over the cake, and lift it to mist and fan as normal.
Some things that are good to know about wax paper are the earlier into fruiting you apply it the better, the reason is contaminants in your air will be landing on the wax paper instead of the substrate. Wax paper can be using on trays, without a fruiting chamber. Just make a tray, apply wax paper, and keep replacing it, as the mushrooms mature, you'll have to use larger pieces of wax paper. No fruiting chamber necessary. Tmethyl

A typical monotub, the holes can be arranged in many different ways, but I've found that every arrangement works just fine. When in use, this tub will be filled with substrate and spawn up to just bellow the bottom holes. During the colonization period (after filling with spawn, and sub) you tape the holes shut, so nothing can get in or out. Once the substrate is fully colonized, you remove the tape, and lightly stuff the holes with polyfill, this is called 'inducing fruiting' NOTE: In arid, low humidity geographic regions, it may be best to stuff the polyfill a little tighter - Tmethyl

10ml/cc and 10ml/cc syringes, if you order a syringe from a vendor it will come in a 10-12ml/cc syringe - Tmethyl

Felt GE lids, just a piece of felt silicone glued over a 1/4" hole drilled into the lid. You can inoculate through the felt, as long as you cool off the needle in sterile water, or spray it with alcohol before jabbing the felt. But it is not recommended, and these are best used in G2G(Grain to Grain) transfers - Tmethyl

G2G felt GE lids, basically metal versions of the above ^ - Notahacker420

Self healing injection ports, used on lids for spawn jars. Comes in many shapes and sized. I prefer to use a blob of silicone as an injection port - Notahacker420

Magnetic stirrers, these are placed inside an LC prior to sterilization, and inoculation. Then the LC jars are sat atop a magnetic stirrer base, which magnetically spins this them at high speeds, keeping a beneficial vortex current inside the LC - Hoobatech

Inoculation loops, is a simple tool used mainly by microbiologists to retrieve an inoculum from a culture of microorganisms. The loop is used in the cultivation of microbes on plates by transferring inoculum for streaking. If you are using a metal loop, flame sterilize it until it is red. Allow it to cool. Do NOT wave it in the air to cool it faster, that increases contamination. If you are using disposable plastic pipettes, do not flame it. Do not touch the loop with you fingers or let it touch any nonsterile surface. This is an optional tool, used in agar work - Hoobatech

Parafilm, is a plastic paraffin film with a paper backing primarily used in laboratories. It is commonly used for sealing or protecting vessels (such as flasks, agar plates). It is ductile, malleable, waterproof, odorless, thermoplastic, semi-transparent and cohesive - Hoobatech

A scalpel, and replacement bladed, most commonly used to make agar transfers, in attempts to isolate a strain/monoculture. Isolate grows perform much better than multi spore grows - Hoobatech

Rye grains, many cultivators consider this the best grain type for making spawn jars. They hold high amounts of moisture and never stick together. They are very easy to prepare and highly nutritious to your mushrooms. You may also substitute Wheat grains in the place of Rye - Headacherelief

Rye grains, after being soaked in coffee/water and simmered, ready to load into PC - Headacherelief


Coco coir, one of the most popular bulk substrates in monotubs, and trays. You simply pasteurize it, place it in a monotub, then add your grain spawn, mix well, then add a layer of coir over the top, being sure to leave no exposed grains. NOTE: This brand of Coir is purchased from pet stores, and is the best kind. Some Brands come with Trichoderma spores in the coir, since Trich is very beneficial for plants. Avoid non-pet store brands - Hoobatech

Felt, used as a filter material on spawn jars, very cheap, and simple - Hoobatech

Face mask, you know what these are for. You can never take TOO many sterile precautions - Hoobatech

Pre-sterilized petri dishes, used in agar work - Hoobatech

Agar powder, comes in many forms, and can be purchased in organic food marts, Asian food marts, science supply, or fungiperfecti.com has my favorite agar (ready to use) mixture - Hoobatech

A laminar flowhood, these can be constructed at home, or bought online. This is a commercial version, they are used in agar work, G2G transfers, and many other mycological activities - Hoobatech

BRF - Brown rice flour, the main nutritional ingredient in BRF/PF cakes, keep this bag sealed very well, it has a tendency to attract many insects and parasites - Tmethyl

70% alcohol, this is the optimal sanitizing agent used in mushrooms cultivation, this also comes in 50% (too weak) and 91% (too strong) 70% is optimal because it has just the right amount of water and alcohol to allow cellular osmosis, thus killing contamination and sanitizing more effectively, use 70% - Tmethyl

Perlite, a very popular item in mushroom cultivation, it has many pits, craters and cavities on a macroscopic level, this gives it a massive surface area, making perlite one of the best materials for evaporation. It's used to humidify SGFC(shotgun fruiting chambers) among other things - Headacherelief(1) & Tmethyl(3)

Gypsum! Gypsum will definitely increase yields when added to horse manure, or ANY other substrate for that matter. Calcium and sulfur are both nutrients used in mushroom fruitbody formation.  In addition, gypsum prevents the wild swings in pH we often see as the mushroom mycelium colonizes a substrate. Use it at 5% to 10% by volume - Tmethyl

Horse manure, the picture below displays perfectly aged manure, it has been leeched in the field, and is ready to use. It will have only a slight earthy smell, if your manure spells of ammonia or smells fresh, it is not aged enough - Tmethyl

Wild bird seed (WBS), this form of grains are used for spawn, very popular, very effective, and very cheap. This stuff comes in so many different types and brands that I see posts of people trying to find the right kind on a daily basis. The below picture is the CORRECT MIXTURE - Tmethyl

Sterile swabs, these have many uses, but I use them to transfer spores from a print to a syringe or to a shotglass, then sucked up with syringe, etc - Tmethyl

Perhaps, the ultimate instant casing.
I've had multiple successful tests substituting the wax paper with bubble wrap (small or large bubbles, both work)
Bubbles face down, towards to substrate. Bubble wrap never needs replaced, can be sanitized with alcohol, and creates an optimal primorida inducing micro climate. The downside to bubble wrap is once it's cut to size, that piece is now devoted to that size substrate. - Tmethyl









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OfflineTmethylM
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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: Tmethyl] * 1
    #17286429 - 11/26/12 06:23 PM (11 years, 5 months ago)

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Tips & Tricks

This, is in my opinion, Cubensis in an optimal environment, no fuzzy feet, means plenty of FAE, the color of the caps, length of the stems, width of stems represents sufficient lighting, and further supports good FAE, if there is a goal to aim for, your mushrooms looking like these should be it:
(These were grown in my GH, the cakes are 1pint)


Sniff it when you birth it

Smell your substrates, smell your spawns, smell your cakes. It should smell like a mushroom if colonized with mushroom mycelium, if it stinks or smells sweet, it's contaminated with bacteria and should be tossed. Please note that many edible and medicinal mushrooms smell different, and this tip is mainly aimed at Cubensis and Paneaolus.
If you're growing Cubensis or other 'active' species, do not tell anyone about your grow. When I say 'anyone' I mean not even your best friend, not your mother or any other family member, nobody needs to know. Don't even tell them you have some Cubensis. Tell them "I know a guy who has some".
Do not label your jars, syringes or any other items with the actual species of mushroom you're growing (If you're growing a psychoactive species)
Label the jars as "Agaricus" or "Ganoderma" or "Shitake". If you've received a pre-labled syringe from a vendor, remove the label, write on your own with a permanent marker - Tmethyl


Shit for noobs
https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/17186530
Use the "Advanced Search Function" to weed out all outdated/misinformation.
  - Notahacker420



Oh, tyvek sleeves for a SAB can be sterilized in a jar and reused indefinitely. Oats, not rye, oats. They are 10% the cost and have the same size and consistency as rye. I prep exactly like I would rye. Soak grains in weak coffee or hpoo tea not water, its the key trust me. - WillSolvem



If you've got a question to ask, take a good photo of the problem before asking - Guy1980



Use newspaper or a towel to dry your grains lay them flat out and wait till they are cold! This advice for me really was gold, as I seriously doubt I could get the moisture content right with simply shaking and tossing alone!
With Pf tek be aware that your needle might clog. Seriously there were many funerals in this corner of the world for many sadly missed cakes these last few weeks and I believe shooting like 3 or 5 times too much solution into the jars may well have been the cause! Possibly...
Dont pull air into your syringe easy noob mistake to make! Put needle inside a flame and then pull! When I started out I hadn't even considered this eventuality!
Pack pf substrate in loose, but also dont make your verm layer too deep, as even if you did make your substrate nice and loose that aint gonna help much if you've crammed it down under a great load of verm.
If your a noob then your probably best of making a proper filter for your PF jars, as I doubt very few people, like me will be able to resist spinning them around and inspecting them at least 5 times every hour. Better yet stick them in a box with a padlock and swallow the key!
Go with spore prints and not syringes! I bemoaned the fact that I couldn't get syringes, but making your own syringes will teach you everything you need to know about sterile technique and gives one a real sense of growing confidence after the first few times of clean knock ups. After that you wont be second guessing yourself so much and will have a nicer understanding of how there is at least a little room for error and sloppiness! Also will save money!
You dont necessarily have to shake all your myc up vigorously in order to open up new innoc points. I found even a light rolling and gentle shake around of a very small ball of myc served to open up new growth points in areas where they were badly needed!
Try to look for a shotgun chamber with a nice gluey looking plastic, hard to explain but for me I found the one I bought was pretty impossible to fuck up when drilling, as did many other cheaper boxes I practiced on before I began. The glassy plastic tends to crack. No idea if I'm making sense on this one, but suffice to say some plastic boxs are very drill friendly and some aint!
Measure your holes with a ruler, and follow the RR 2 inch specs. So many people come on here with SG's that look like some greedy mad woodpecker has had a go at them having obviously thought that the tek called simply for a big box full of holes!
When it comes to tyvek polly-fill, micro pore tape, SFD's, rubber injection ports, RTV silicon etc buy the whole lot, you will find many uses for all of that stuff and especially with things like the RTV and micro-pore... Oh and you will need a drill, I would never have thought before hand (drill and mycology?) but mine is now utterly indispensable!
And finally patience is the most difficult part of all! Best way to forget about a grow is to start a new one, and start worrying about that one! Worrying about the new one? Why start another and worry about that one! Course its a recipe for insanity, a severe lack of shelf space, and a grumbling missus but hey it works for me! - Wolf8312


After you shake up a syringe and the 'plug' is swapped for the needle, squirt out a bit of solution from the needle tip, THEN flame sterilize.  That little drop that gets exposed to the air = instant first jar contamination.  Something obvious yet overlooked - Ima


Add a touch of vinegar to PC water to make sure your jars don't get cloudy on the outside - zMan


If you're doing grain quart jars, don't forget to wipe the threads and the inside of the very top of the jar clean before you put the lid on before you PC... just like you would a pf jar... I think a lot of people forget to do this or don't think they need to.
tip #2- learn and build a fool proof lid design that you trust... and if you're using metal bands with tyvek... be sure you take a pliers and squeeze that inner band all the way flush so it doesn't cut through your tyvek.  like so..
- Fahtster



Patience....
Forstner bits for drilling lids...
Holesaws/spade bits for drilling monotub/SAB holes...
Also, this tip from my SAB tek about drilling holes:
1. Place your tote on it’s side where the armholes will be and drill forward, from the inside, to start the hole.
a. The holesaw will lock-up against the tote once the Arbor is all the way through and the edges hit the container.
b. Switch the drill to reverse, then SLOWLY, with a slight rocking motion, work your way through the tote.  DON’T force it! You’ll crack your tote, let the saw do the work.
i. I don’t remember who said to run it in reverse, or even if they were being serious, but it works way better than going forward.  I haven’t cracked a tote since using this method w/ the holesaw (see picture).
ii. If you’re doing this outside and it’s cold, you may want to warm up the tote w/ a hair drier for a few seconds.  This will reduce the brittleness of the tote where you’re drilling. - TrancendingLife



Watch it, buy it. http://www.mushroomvideos.com/ - Twistedty


Make a template before you drill your shotgun.
- Khii Kwaay


Use the short 1/2 pint jars, not the tall ones - mjmihalov


Don't try to save contaminated jars.
Take things in steps; i.e. don't jump straight to bulk.
Learn to share your excitement here and not with your friends/family, it could keep you out of trouble.
Mark your jars with symbols or dots instead of names, that way if someone accidentally sees them they won't scream Ps. Cubensis Golden Teacher (or whatever). Allowing you to simply play them off as edibles.
Keep a journel, that way you can track what does and doesn't work.
This one is more about the forums and how to help keep your post from being skipped over, but I felt like it would be helpful for noobs none the less.
Break up your thoughts, and don't talk like some high school girl texting her "BFF" -  Wire5


Vermiculite and pearlite are both important, although they are not interchangeable.
Vermiculite - is used to help keep moister in substrate, and to help keep your substrate from becoming too dense.
Pearlite - is used to keep humidity in you FC, or even better your properly built SGFC. It doesn't work correctly in left submerged in water - Iwannbemro



Don't get so stoned that you fuck shit up!
But seriously,
Here are some:
Don't cut corners.
Spray the air with a fine bleach/water solution before doing sterile work
Make more spawn than you need.
Buy a mycology book
Become obsessed - Oeric McKenna



The #1 tip I can possibly give to a noob is to leave your stuff the fuck alone.
Think of it like a cat. It wants attention when it wants attention. It'll usually accept more (up to a point) when it doesn't really want it, but it won't like you as much. And there are a few things you can do to just completely make it hate you with no chance of reconciliation.
Bottom line - do it right the first time and then let it do its' thing. If it doesn't look right, throw it out, think about your procedure some more and start again. The same goes for mushrooms. :stoned: - 36fuckin5


BAG FRUITING INFORMATION:

1.        Basics:  REMEMBER.  The bag contains  a living organism.  It will die if you neglect it.  Fungi need moisture, light and fresh air.  Light quality is important and most commonly overlooked;  natural light thru a window is best, indirect but bright.  Other sources include florescent or LED light.  The brighter the better.  High humidity is essensial for pin formation and development.  We provide you with a piece of woven fabric called reemay which should be moistened and  draped over your open mushroom bag at all times.  Keep the reemay misted with a fine mist sprayer or soak it in water three or four times a day minimum.  Fresh air allows for normal development of most mushrooms.  By cutting the bag open, you are providing the spawn  plenty of fresh air to grow.

2.      Storing your bag:Store your bag at room temperature until you are ready to open it.  If you want to keep your bag in storage for long periods, refrigeration is best.  In general, the warmer it is the faster development occurs.

3.      Cutting open the bag:  When the bag is fully colonized, (completely covered in fungus), it will begin to form primordia or “pins” which are essencially baby mushrooms.  At this point, either refrigerate the bag or cut it open.  Keep your block somewhere that you frequent often, like the kitchen  You can set the bag on a dinner plate or in a shallow tupper ware.  Remember it needs light.    Fruiting temperatures between 50 and 75 are ideal for most species.  Depending on temp and humidity, outside might be better than inside.  For instance if it is cool and misty or rainy, stick the block outside on covered porch or window sill.  If it is hot and sunny or below freezing, bring it in.  The higher the humidity the better.  Once you cut the bag open, no turning back!!  Follow the directions for each species below.

a.        Reishi-  several options.  In high co2, the reishi will form “antlers” right in the closed bag.  These antlers are considered highly medicinal and are quite valuable.  You can let the antler form grow in the bag as long as you like.  When you do cut the bag open and fresh air enters, the form will change to the typical shelf fungus form. Cut the very top of the bag off, fold the edge and clothspin or chip clip it closed to conserve moisture.  Reishi can also be fruited out of the side of the bag by making several small slits along the side wall of the bag.

b.      Shiitake-IMPORTANT!  Shiitake must “brown” and “bark” INSIDE the bag!  Do not open the bag until it is entirely brown.  In addition the surface of the block will take on a roughened texture, called “popcorning” or “barking”.  This process can take up to three months from spawning date!  Once this has occurred, spank the bag!  Give it ten good spanks with your hand.  NO JOKE!  This triggers fruiting!  Next, cut off the entire bag and wrap with reemay.  KEEP MISTED and get ready.  Shiitake fruits madly.

c.      King Oyster, Beech and Enoki:  These benefit from high co2 levels.  Once pinning occurs, cut the very top to the bag off, fold the edge down and clip it with a cloths pin or chip clip.  Unclip as the mushrooms approach the top of the bag.

d.      All other oysters, including Elm:  Require a lot of fresh air and bright light to produce normal fruits.  If the pins form mostly at the top of the bag, you can cut the bag off right at the level of the pins,  (no bag wall).  If the pins for all over the block, you can cut the entire bag off and wrap the block in reemay. KEEP IT MOIST!  Oysters love water.

e.      Lions Mane:  Can be top fruited.  Cut bag top off, leaving about 2 inches of bag wall intact.  Drape reemay over the  top.  Or even better, make two 1 inch slits anywhere along the bag where thick white fungus is  prominent and the fruits will grow out of the slits.  It’s a site to see!  Be sure to drape the reemay over the bag so it keeps the developing fruits moist.  But watch out for the fruits growing THRU the reemay.

5.        Harvesting:  Cut the fruits off with a sharp knife right where they come off the block.  DO NOT CUT INTO THE BLOCK!  COOK until Golden brown!!  You derive little to no nutritional or medicinal value from fungi unless they are thoroughly cooked.  AND THEY TASTE BETTER!!  30-40  minutes on medium heat is reasonable.

6.      Second flush:  Let the block rest for up to a week, then immerse it in tap water for 24hrs  to trigger a second flush of mushrooms.  Exception is Lions Mane, which will fruit again out of the same holes.  Take the entire bag off at this point.  Wrap in reemay!  Keep moist.  Look for new primordia.

7.      Eventually, your block will contaminate.  This is normal, usually after the first or second flush.  You might observe green or black mold, similar to what you would see on cheese or bread, growing on the surface of the block.  At this point, put your block outside if it is above freezing and it will typically fruit another time or two.  If it is winter time, put the block in a black plastic garbage bag and store in your basement or garage till spring.  Then soak it and stick it outside.  DON’T GIVE UP ON YOUR BLOCK!  We have had blue oyster blocks fruit a dozen or more times, each flush slightly smaller than the last. - Amanita Virosa

Sick of spraining your wrist opening stuckjar rings? Flip the jar upside down and tap on the table at all around the ring. This will allow you to easily open.
:peace: - Galactic_Smurf































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¯\_(ツ)_/¯

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InvisibleSwan Song

Registered: 02/08/06
Posts: 559
Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: Tmethyl]
    #17286456 - 11/26/12 06:28 PM (11 years, 5 months ago)

:asianofapproval: keep it up.

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InvisiblezMan
zMan

Registered: 09/08/12
Posts: 2,191
Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: Swan Song]
    #17286467 - 11/26/12 06:30 PM (11 years, 5 months ago)

Awesome. Wish this was around when I started ^^.


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Information for everyone: http://www.mushroomvideos.com
Are your grains or spawn clean? CLICK THIS CHECKLIST

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OfflineNature Boy
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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: zMan]
    #17286491 - 11/26/12 06:35 PM (11 years, 5 months ago)

Quote:

zMan said:
Awesome. Wish this was around when I started ^^.




:whathesaid:

Nice job!  Excellent selection of pix.  Why do those pix of in-vitro pinning skeeve me out so????  YUK!  Same with the Trich.  Ewwwwww....:rofl2:

N.B.


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All submitted posts under this user name are works of pure fiction or outright lies.  Any information, statement, or assertion contained therein should be considered pure unadulterated bullshit.  Note well:  Sorry, but I do not answer PM's unless you are a long-time trusted friend.  If you have a question, ask it in the appropriate thread.

                                                                               

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Offlinetimsmith777
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Registered: 04/14/12
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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: Nature Boy]
    #17286552 - 11/26/12 06:45 PM (11 years, 5 months ago)

thanks for the great pictorial of healthy and unhealthy cakes. this will be very helpful in the future. kudos!!

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OfflineTmethylM
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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: timsmith777]
    #17286562 - 11/26/12 06:47 PM (11 years, 5 months ago)

It has only begun my friends. The best is yet to come.


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OnlineShroomslip
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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: timsmith777]
    #17286565 - 11/26/12 06:47 PM (11 years, 5 months ago)

I'll no doubt find this useful in the coming months, so thanks. I'll be sure to check here when I need visual aid.


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With my face against the floor I can’t see who knocked me out of the way.
I don’t want to get back up but I have to so it might as well be today.
Nothing appeals to me no one feels like me, I’m too busy being calm to disappear.
I’m in no shape to be alone contrary to the shit that you might hear.


You can't wake up, this is not a dream. You're part of a machine, you are not a human being
With your face all made up, living on a screen. Low on self esteem, so you run on gasoline

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InvisibleExiledmonkies
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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: Shroomslip]
    #17297191 - 11/28/12 01:40 PM (11 years, 5 months ago)

Multispore (Gently scraped print inside a petri dish is held above the agar dish and flicked for random dispersal)

Multispore scalpel blade tip is pressed on a print and then in the center of the agar)

Corn starch LC from diluted multispore syringe stored inside a syringe

Grain from three different rye jars on agar. generation 3

Single rye berry on agar. Generation 1

WBS jar inoculated with 1/2cc LC.

Two jars on the left were at 30% colonization when the three jars on the right are at 70%. Matching growth by shaking the two and leaving the others to finish. You don't want to wait more than 2 days to use a fully colonized rye jar.

Half gallons inoculated by G2G transfer. One half pint jar per half gallon. (Half pint's inoculated with agar isolation)

Multispore PF tek cakes inoculated with too many spores.


PF tek cake in effected by a RH below 80%

Healthy pinset on a PF tek cake.

PF tek cake inoculated with a LC.

PF tek cake effected by lack of FAE . (RH outside the SGFC was very low, didn't account for that)

3-4inches of spawned substrate in open trays/tubs.

Deformed mushrooms caused from having to push through a dead myc layer(stroma)

Bacteria in a PF cake, Agar iso, and Rye jar.

Edited by Exiledmonkies (11/28/12 02:11 PM)

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Offlinec0ri
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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: Exiledmonkies]
    #17297291 - 11/28/12 01:57 PM (11 years, 5 months ago)

Pretty cool. Only thing I think may be an issue is newcomers during their first grow will not have crazy rhizo myc and think that they have done something wrong since they have the typical fluffy myc. Other than that I think it's a great deal.

Your typical first time grower will most likely not see rhizo like these pictures show. You know what I mean?

You'll have to explain to them that after agar work and isolation techniques, they CAN have myc growth like the pictured myc. BUT typical fluffy mycelium isn't a bad thing, especially for your first grow.

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InvisibleFrankHorrigan
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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: c0ri]
    #17297314 - 11/28/12 02:01 PM (11 years, 5 months ago)

Quote:

c0ri said:
You'll have to explain to them that after agar work and isolation techniques, they CAN have myc growth like the pictured myc. BUT typical fluffy mycelium isn't a bad thing, especially for your first grow.




If you're doing agar work, you always transfer from the most rhizomorphic growth, whether it's pronounced or not. That applies to first timers or agar vets :shrug:


--------------------

Yes, you can bump my old threads with a question.
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You should take a look. :hehehe:


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Offlinec0ri
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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: FrankHorrigan]
    #17297495 - 11/28/12 02:27 PM (11 years, 5 months ago)

My point was more to the point that most first time growers are going to be using MS from a sponsor and not working with agar and isolates. Which typically leads to fluffy growth, rather than rhizo growth.

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InvisibleFrankHorrigan
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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: c0ri]
    #17297542 - 11/28/12 02:32 PM (11 years, 5 months ago)

Quote:

c0ri said:
My point was more to the point that most first time growers are going to be using MS from a sponsor and not working with agar and isolates. Which typically leads to fluffy growth, rather than rhizo growth.




True.
Someone should post some basic pics of MS cakes, bulks, etc.
All I have are show-off pics...:lol:


--------------------

Yes, you can bump my old threads with a question.
Here is how I get things done.
You should take a look. :hehehe:


Frank's tips and tricks. Updated on 3/21/14
AMU- Get an answer here -AMU

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Offlinec0ri
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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: FrankHorrigan]
    #17297595 - 11/28/12 02:40 PM (11 years, 5 months ago)

Don't get me wrong, the pics are badass. I just don't want new growers with good healthy fluffy mycelium thinking they did something wrong because they dont have rhizo growth.

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OfflineTmethylM
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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: c0ri]
    #17297719 - 11/28/12 02:56 PM (11 years, 5 months ago)

If nobody contributes some normal typical growth patterns of MS inoculation I'll have to activate phase II.. forceful contribution. This is where I scout key threads and steal peoples pics and post them here. With credits of course. Threads with names like "I see growth" or " my spores germinated!" Will be targeted.

You make a valid case C0ri this will be cleared up tonight.

Further suggestions welcomed and embraced this is a community effort.


--------------------
¯\_(ツ)_/¯

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InvisibleExiledmonkies
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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: c0ri]
    #17297748 - 11/28/12 03:02 PM (11 years, 5 months ago)

Cottony is either monokaryon, recovering or a strain that is senescing. I rather the beginners know that you shouldn't use that for jars or spawning. They will be bashing their head against a wall from disappointing grows or nothing at all.

Skip the PF training wheels~

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Offlinetwistedty
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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: Tmethyl]
    #17297750 - 11/28/12 03:02 PM (11 years, 5 months ago)


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OfflineTmethylM
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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: twistedty]
    #17297789 - 11/28/12 03:10 PM (11 years, 5 months ago)

Epic shots Exiled I'll put them together when I get home. Fully appreciate your time.


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Offlinebluegreenbaby
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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: c0ri]
    #17297921 - 11/28/12 03:32 PM (11 years, 5 months ago)

Thank you Tmethyl, I have been all over the internet to see if my jars were going the way they should. I think it would be a great idea if you could show pics of common contaminates and other frequently encountered problems and as cOri mentioned maybe show the different 'forms' of mycelial? growth.....I almost threw away a perfectly good quart jar because I mistook the fuzzy looking mycelium for cobweb mold. If I had pictures of one, or better yet side by side comparison of both it would have saved a lot of stress and possibly a couple more jars. When I tried to figure out what was 'wrong'with my jars I noticed that I was certainly not the only noob to make this mistake. I finally read where cobweb mold is gray and mycelium can be fuzzy if air/gas exchange is off. I still haven't looked at your pictorial, which I am going to do right now. So Thank You...in advance.

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