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Smear in the shale Registered: 07/16/12 Posts: 16,431 Loc: Florida Last seen: 1 year, 4 months |
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![]() The below visual guide is designed for novice and inexperienced mushroom cultivators. For some, it's easier and more comforting to know they are(or aren't) on the right path by visually making a comparison with an experienced growers cultures. That's what this guide is for, visual comparison. Please feel free to thank and rate any of the contributors. ![]() What It Shouldn't Look Like <-Click Genetic Mutations Section <-Click General Cultivation Information & FAQ <-Click Edible, Medicinal, and Novelty Fungi <-Click Supplies and Materials <-Click Tips and Tricks <-Click ![]() 1) Mycelium 2) Hyphal Knots & Primordia 3) Pins 4) When to Harvest 5) Mature Mushrooms 6) Spore Prints 7) Mycelium on Agar 8) Panaeolus cyanescens Section 9) How it Shouldn't Look 10) Poor Fruiting Conditions ![]() Cubensis mycelium just starting to colonize grain spawn jars - Tmethyl Typical colonization patterns of a multispore inoculation in a BRF mixture - Tmethyl Cubensis mycelium, the definition of rhizomorphic colonization, 1/2 pint BRF cake (Brown Rice Flower) - Revolutionctm Cubensis mycelium CLOSE-UP (macro), colonizing multiple substrates - Tmethyl Mycelium breaking the surface of the substrate, in a monotub - Tmethyl Super macro shots of Mycelium on grain spawn - Timehole Newly germinated mycelium on a BRF(PF tek) jar, and newly germinated mycelium on rye spawn jar (This is what it should look like 5-10 days after spore inoculation, but in rare cases can take up to 2-3 weeks to see growth) - Rohr Rhizomorphic growth on WBS (Wild Bird Seed) - FrankHorrigan Two jars on the left were at 30% colonization when the three jars on the right are at 70%. Matching growth by shaking the two and leaving the others to finish. You don't want to wait more than 2 days to use a fully colonized rye jar - Exiledmonkies Cubensis mycelium in WBS/rye quarts, this is when I like to shake my jars and distribute the mycelium - Tmethyl Penis Envy strain monoculture in WBS(Wild Bird seed) - FrankHorrigan MS(multispore) inoculation, mycelium germinating at inoculation points. Do not shake grain jars if you inoculated with MS, only shake once they reach 30% colonization, then allow the finish - Tmethyl Corn starch liquid culture syringe - Exiledmonkies Multiple liquid cultures of Cubensis mycelium - Hoobatech Cubensis liquid culture - Alembic ![]() Knots, small pins - Bodhisatta Knots, primordia, small pins - Tmethyl Primordia and knots - Tmethyl Primordia/knots - NatureBoy Primordia and knots - Creekfreek Hyphal knots, macro close-up - Tmethyl Primordia and knots - Dodgem Cubensis hyphal knots on rhizomorphic mycelium - Tmethyl Cubensis "roping" mycelium, also primordia and knots on right side, 1pint BRF(Brown Rice Flour) jar - Tmethyl Pins, Primorida, and Hyphal knots in monotub - Elkart Primordia growing on a pin, and various hyphal knots - Tmethyl Cubensis hyphal knots, primordia, and pin, extreme close up! - Tmethyl Hyphal knotting close-up, inside a monotub (one day before fruiting) - Tmethyl Hyphal knots, primordia/pins - k00laid An expensive shot of Hyphal knots and Primordia (and some pins) growing on a "cash casing" - RogerRabbit ![]() Pins growing in a wine glass - Tmethtyl A gorgeous set of pins - PrimalSoup An interestingly shaped pin set - TranscendingLife Some very clean pins - TheApprentice Pins on BRF cakes - Tsmtbs07 The kangaroo approves of this monotub pin set - Tmethyl Invitro pinning 1pint BRF(Brown Rice Flour) jars *Jar inverted for picture, do not invert your jars* - Tmethyl Cubensis pinning on bulk cake - Tmethyl Psilocybe Cubensis pin set in monotub - FrankHorrigan Invitro pins, and impressive mycelial network on glass - Elkart 1 pint Brf/Rye hybrid cakes pinning in GH setup (Green house) - Tmethyl Cubensis pins in monotub, all aiming towards light source (window) - Tmethyl Cubensis pins growing from a 1" WBS (Wild Bird Seed) substrate - Citric Pristine Penis Envy var. pins on a bulk cake - k00laid A glorious shot of hundreds of invitro pins - RogerRabbit ![]() Psilocybe Cubensis fruits, 1 day before harvest - Tmethyl A good time to harvest (opinionated) - Tmethyl No better time to harvest, than now - Applesmasher420 Harvest time - TheApprentice An epic shot of a perfect time to harvest, admire these beauties for a moment! - PrimalSoup Time to harvest these - Tmethyl This is when to harvest! - Elkart A great time to harvest - Tmethyl A little late for some on the outer regions, but a great time to harvest this entire tub, especially the center - Citric A beautifully timed harvest - Tmethyl A perfect time to harvest this 110g mutant nicknamed "The Pumpkin" - Tmethyl Good time to harvest these KSSS mushrooms, this particular strain tends to develop very short very wide fruits in the first flush - Beethoven Cubensis roughly 1 day before a perfect harvest time - Amanita Virosa Harvesting these now, is good for me - NatureBoy ![]() Mature psilocybe Cubensis on BRF(Brown rice flour) cakes, from under - Tmethyl Mature Psilocybe Cubensis through the peephole(Fresh air exchange hole in monotubs) - Tmethyl Fully mature Psilocybe cubensis fruits - Applesmasher420 Mature Psilocybe Cubensis fruit - FrankHorrigan Cubensis proper blue bruising, darkness/shade can vary - Tmethyl Mature Cubensis, split from over-humidity - Tmethyl Some cubensis fruits that were grown inside a cup - Citric What happens when you allow your cubes to become too mature? Sporesplosion. These are going to taste like shit - Elkart Mature Penis Envy strain Psilocybe Cubensis - RogerRabbit Mature cubensis fruits, in a plastic tarp fruiting chamber set up. Growing on a straw log - RogerRabbit ![]() Psilocybe cubensis print on foil - Applesmasher420 Cubensis prints on foil - RogerRabbit Cubensis spore prints on foil - Tmethyl A simple printing method which involves filling some small containers with a small amount sterile distilled water, then flipping the lids over and placing a mushroom cap on it to drop spores, then flip the lid back over onto the container and shake it. Instant dark spore solution with very little contamination possibility. Use about 1cc/ml or less per 10-12cc/ml syringe (1cc spore solution 9-11cc water) - Tmethyl ![]() Healthy mycelium on agar Van Hatton A pin cloned on agar - TrancendingLife Cubensis mycelium on agar with a mysterious ring formation.. - Creekfreek Heavily rhizomorphic mycelium on agar - FrankHorrigan Rye agar, half pint "spacial" jars - Tmethyl Cubensis mycelium on agar, random colonies - Exiledmonkies Dikaryotic hyphae, with water droplets on them. These droplets were thought to be yeast contamination buds - Amanita Virosa Clean cubensis mycelium on agar - Dmonkey1 Clean isolate(monoculture) - Bodhisatta Clean mycelium transfers - Bodhisatta Spore germination on agar, and Psilocybe cubensis spore micrograph - Bodhisatta ![]() Paneaolus cyanescens partially and fully colonized 1quart rye apawns - Tmethyl Panaeolus Cyanescens mycelium partially/fully colonizing a tray - Tmethyl Paneaolus mycelium Mono cultures on agar - FrankHorrigan Paneaolus Cyanescens monoculture in WBS(Wild Bird Seed) - FrankHorrigan Paneaolus Cyanescens pins - Tmethyl Mature and almost mature Pan Cyan(Paneaolus Cyanescens) fruits, gills, and random Pan Cyan photography - Tmethyl Quote: Edited by Tmethyl (07/12/20 11:45 AM)
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Smear in the shale Registered: 07/16/12 Posts: 16,431 Loc: Florida Last seen: 1 year, 4 months |
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![]() This was a sorghum grain jar contaminated with mold, probably Dactylium(cobweb) note to clear difference in healthy white mycelium with mold mycelium. - Mycotylium This image has a graphic description, please read the photo Bodhisatta This is blue bruising, it's very common and not a contamination. It is an indicator that the cake has been physically contacted (touched, picked up) or is getting to dry, increase misting and check your humidity if you see blue bruising in areas that you know you did not contact - Tsmtbs07 Cobweb mold(Dactylium) on a coir/verm substrate - Hoobatech Cobweb mold colonizing inside 1/2 pint jar - Tmethyl A disturbing mixture of metabolites, and bacteria, I hope your jars never look like this! - Tmethyl Trichoderma on coir/verm, pre-sporeulated trich(not yet turned green[upper portion of pic]) - MashedGlasses Bacterial contamination in a BRF cake jar - Trip352 Cubensis mycelium, meeting with the mycelium of a contaminant mushroom mycelium, this is a tricky one. Cubensis is more silky, and always flows, notice how the contaminant mushroom mycelium does not flow, and looks similar to cobweb mold - Tmethyl Fungal gnat, or close species. This is what happens when gnats lay eggs in your grain jars, you can see the enzymes secreted by the maggots are not only killing the mycelium, but liquifying the grains, the maggots may of also brought in some bacteria. This jar is garbage - Tmethyl Heavy Lipstick Mold contamination (Geotrichum candidium) in red areas. Pink mold(Neurospora) in purple areas - KafkasDog ![]() Trichoderma (mature) on monotub surface - Tmethyl Trichoderma on coir (not green yet) - Paleopoint Cobweb mold on monotub surface/side - Tmethyl Baccilus bacteria contamination on BRF cake, agar, and grain spawn - Exiledmonkies Yeast Contamination on LME(Light Malt Extract) agar - Tmethyl An Aspergillus niger contamination, TOSS IT ASAP! - Tmethyl Trichoderma (immature) contamination coir/coffee/verm substrate, the trichoderma is not green yet, it hasn't sporulated - FrankHorrigan Early trichoderma on coir substrate, monotub (immature, but green is visible if you look close) - Don Quixote Trichoderma on grain spawn, trich mycelium is visible - TrancendingLife Are there even words to describe this? It's Apergillus, trichoderma, nuerospora, penicillium, and ganoderma mycelium.. on wood - Tmethyl Heavy bacterial contamination in WBS spawn - TrancendingLife Trichoderma/Aspergillus in spawn jar, panaeolus cyanescens - TheCyndicate Aspergillus contamination in spawn jar (similar to trich but not the same) the very last picture is oyster mycelium eating the contamination, oyster mycelium is very tough. - Tmethyl Extremely contaminated monotub(s), most of it is Trichoderma, but there is some cobweb, and I'm SURE some other nasty shit in there - Jenkinz Trichoderma contaminated monotub, it's fruiting as a last resort to get out some spores before the trich annihilates it - Numnum59 ![]() Cubensis fruits showing the classic signs of verticillium bacterial contamination (deformed fruit, brown speckles on stipe), the last 3 pictures display some other effects verticillium may have on your fruits(grey caps, peeling, cracking, etc) - Rohr (First2pics) - SuchSmartMonkeys (Last3Pics) A beautiful example of Penicillium contamination on agar - Amanita Virosa Aspergillus contaminated spawn jar on left, clean jar on right - Amanita Virosa Trichoderma before it turned green (sporulated) on coir/verm substrate - Timehole Not sure exactly where to start on these 2 jars, but your jars should never look like this! - Jcoonan Trichoderma and other contaminations in these disgusting spawn jars - RogerRabbit Multiple bacterial contaminations on agar - Dmonkey1 Trichoderma in grain spawn jars, and massive bacterial contamination in last 2 jars - TrancendingLife More pink mold in these BRF jars probably Nuerospora - Jacobwtyler Mold, and nasty bacteria - Creekfreek Bacterial presence in this jar - Changealot Pseudomas bacterial contamination, note the brown spotted areas, rotted areas, etc. Included microscopy of bacteria. - Bodhisatta Cobweb mold in jars and on agar dishes. - Bodhisatta Sour smelling white mold covering bulk substrate, look carefully. - Bodhisatta Bacteria on agar(first 2 photos) Aspergillius mold in jars(3rd photo) Mold on agar(last photo) - Bodhisatta ![]() This is the most common problem with using a PMP(poor mans pod) fruiting chamber, nowhere near enough FAE. These cakes are getting fresh air, but not enough to get rid of the c02 building up, so the cakes have developed heavy aerial mycelium, and the mushrooms are skinny and wimpy from trying to escape the bad environment, we recommend using an SGFC fruiting chamber nowadays, the days of the PMP are gone, for this exact reason - Creekfreek This is what happens when a culture receives NO LIGHT - Doc_D NO FAE, this is what happens to a cake which is being suffocated - Bree (and K1ngsp4de) Very low FAE, causing some very skinny oddly shaped mushrooms - TrancendingLife Poor FAE. Bad tub design. PastyWhite The blue/grey tint on this monotub is from drying out, it will NEVER pin in these conditions - The1sttofall Some suffering albino's, they are insufficient in FAE among other things, don't let your mushrooms look like this - Cronicr The pic says it all, very poor FAE, very poor lighting, and other issues - Dodgem This is what happens to a cake which is given nearly no FAE, and possible bad lighting. It's not happy, note the fuzzy bases of the mushrooms, this indicated low FAE, also notice the dark discolorations on the caps(not the dark purple, that's spores), this is waterlogging, it is being over misted - Kinetic This is an insufficient environment, because pins only developed where the trash bag liner was laying on the sub. This means the rest of the substrate was not humid enough. This picture is also 100% proof of the wax paper casing concept working - DeadPhan Here are some tiny pins caused by a dryer than normal substrate, dry subs can cayse tiny mushrooms, and even large-scale aborts - NatureBoy This is aerial mycelium, it's an indicator of low FAE high c02 in the fruiting chamber - Eyeless_Cat Aerial mycelium on BRF cake - Trip352 Cracking caps, low humidity, dry air, not enough misting, etc - SuchSmartMonkeys Heavily over misted, notice the dark caps, with a caramel glaze look, they are near abortion due top over misting. There is also pooling water on the substrate surface, it is turning yellow because of the presence of bacteria. The mycelium is battling the bacteria by secreting metabolites/enzymes(yellow) - DeadPhan Serious lack of FAE(Fresh Air Exchange) on BRF cake. Note the small caps, and long skinny stipe(stems) trying to escape high c02 levels - Pastywhyte Cubensis fruits all damaged by over saturation, it looks similar to dry air damage. These fruits are waterlogged and were soaked for 1.5day straight - Tmethyl Heavily over misted(leading to aborted fruits, and possible bacterial contamination) and insufficient lighting(tall skinny small caped fruits) - Mattsls101 Pic 1 is heavily over-misted, and it also had insufficient lighting. Note the aborts, pic 2 is the bottom of a monotub displaying a ton of aborted bottom pins, there is also a high likelihood of these pins being contaminated with bacteria - Twistedty These mushrooms are growing in a very hostile environment, and appear to be contaminated by a gay rabbit - RogerRabbit I don't even know what to say about this tray, I don't know wtf he did to it... just avoid this - Trip352These Paneaolus cyanescens pins are aborting due to over misting, do not mist Pan pins, ever - Tmethyl
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Smear in the shale Registered: 07/16/12 Posts: 16,431 Loc: Florida Last seen: 1 year, 4 months |
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Genetic Mutations It's clearly laughing at you, "git gud scrub!" - Tmethyl This thing pregnant? I sure hope so - Tmethyl Some upside-downers - Tmethyl The "alien egg" - TmethylPE blob/mutants - TheNilsMeister Wtf happened here? Oh god why? - SmokeyMcPot Amazing genetics on this cap - DrFunkNshine You going to let this mutant mock you like that? - Dodgem Tits! It has tits!! - Creekfreek Mutated and discolored gills, mutation - Applesmasher420 The 'praying monk' mutant - Applesmasher420 Corkscrew mutant! - Applesmasher420 This mutant.. is a fuckin' wreck - Mush_roomA beautiful and intricate mutant(This is a picture of the gills) - Timehole This is called 'pumpkin' genetics - Tmethyl Beautiful double decker mutant - Trip352 A wtf mutant.. wtf? - Trip352 Neat mutants - Doc_d Nice rosecombing mutants - FortinbraGhost Mutants, and an especially LOVELY double decker mutant, growing upside down - Notahacker420 Some seriously impressive genetic diversity in this grow - JarryDee Some basic first flush Penis Envy cubensis mutants - Hoobatech Another double decker mutation - Timehole Tentacle-like mutations on these cubensis fruits - RogerRabbit Mutant Chantrelle (Cantharellus cibarius) growing right side up - RogerRabbit Some interesting mutations - Exiledmonkies Elephant mutants - Exiledmonkies The 'shy' mutant - Exiledmonkies Chubby mutations - Exiledmonkies Mutants, some 'rosecombing' of the gills - MoGrow A cool mutant, with a blob on top - Hoobatech Mutant with it's close friend - Mykes Logos
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Smear in the shale Registered: 07/16/12 Posts: 16,431 Loc: Florida Last seen: 1 year, 4 months |
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Edible, medicinal, & novelty mushroom mycelium Glow in the dark mushroom mycelium (Omphalotus nidiformis) - Tmethyl Edible Enoki mycelium (Flammulina velutipes) looks very cobweb-like, that's normal for this species - Tmethyl Blue oyster mycelium in grain spawn jar - Tmethyl Great shots of Lions Mane(Hericium erinaceus) mycelium on agar - Amanita Virosa Reishi(Ganoderma Luccidum) mycelium on agar - Amanita Virosa Cordyceps mycelium on LME(Light malt Extract) agar - RogerRabbit Edible, medicinal, & novelty mushrooms Omphalotus Nidiformis (Ghost mushroom) this is a species of bioluminescent(glowing) mushroom, cultivated indoors - Tmethyl Young Blue Oysters(pleurotus columbinus), growing directly from jar mouths - Tmethyl Enoki (Flamulina Velutipes) mature fruits [They appear this way when they have a good FAE, good FAE is not preferred for this species]- Transcendinglife Enoki properly deprived of FAE to get the trademark tall stem small cap growth, which is highly recommended for this species - TrancendingLife Lions mane(Hericium erinaceus) fruiting bodies - Amanita Virosa Blue oyster(Pleurotus ostreatus var. columbinus) fruits - Amanita Virosa King oyster(Pleurotus eryngii) primordia - Amanita Virosa Shitake(Lentinula edodes) fruiting on blocks - Amanita Virosa Maitake(Grifola frondosa) mature fruits first 2 pics, Maitake primordia last 2 pics - Jeff Oyster grows(Pleurotus ostreatus), pinning on straw, mature indoor fruits, and an oyster basket - RogerRabbit Reishi(Ganoderma Luccidum) fruits on multiple substrates, A truly beautiful medicinal fungus - RogerRabbit Shitake(Lentinula edodes) grows done right - RogerRabbit
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Smear in the shale Registered: 07/16/12 Posts: 16,431 Loc: Florida Last seen: 1 year, 4 months |
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General Information & FAQ Light, Temperature, and Pinning Triggers... Jars/bags/tubs/trays should colonize @ room temperature getting ambient/indirect light. Main pinning triggers are full colonization, FAE and Evaporation off of the substrate. Light is a secondary pinning trigger. For tropical species temperature is not a pinning factor. P. Cubensis are a tropical species. You could colonize at 70F and fruit at 80F with great results. Light has been proven beneficial during all stages of mycellium growth. Mushrooms like mammals have a circadian rhythm. You want ambient/indirect light(on a 12/12 schedule preferably) for colonization and consolidation. You want direct/intense 6500K light on a 12/12 schedule for fruiting. Optimal temps are mid 70s throughout the whole grow, but anywhere from 70F-80F is acceptable. Incubation is outdated/uneeded unless temps in the range stated above cannot be kept. The inside of the jar is always a few degrees warmer than the outside because the mycellium produces heat..mycellium tends to stall at temps above 86F , and contams thrive. Fruiting at cooler temps tends to produce denser, meatier fruits, while fruiting at higher temps will often produce hollow, less dense stems. LCs From Spores... LCs from spores are sketchy. No spore syringe/print is ever 100% clean. This is because the cap from which the spores came was more than likely fruited in the open air. You cannot know 100% if an LC is good or not by visual inspection. Test jars must be shot up and grown out. Conditions are not correct for germination of spores in sugar LCs, grain LCs or extra light malt extract based LCs are perfect for spore germination. For best results, make LCs from a fully colonized grain jar(GLC) or from an agar wedge. Or skip LC entirely and just G2G(Grain to Grain) transfers to expand your mycellium. Proper SGFC A proper SGFC should have 1/4"(6mm) holes spaced 2" apart in a grid pattern on all 6 sides(top and bottom) and filled with 5" of damp perlite. The chamber must also be raised so that air can pass up thru the bottom holes, and wick up moisture from the water evaporating off the perlite, this will create a very humid environment inside the chamber. A SGFC works off of the natural air currents in a room with no fans, mess with those currents and your humidity drops. FAE FAE = Fresh Air Exchange. Lack of FAE leads to aerial mycellium, and mycellium crawling up the stems, or "fuzzy feet". Bulging mycellium around the cake is sometimes an indicator that the cakes needed more time after full colonization for consolidation. Heat and Potency This info gets repeated daily... The actives in muchrooms dont break down until FAR past 300F, while most dehydrators never make it past 165F. I use my dehydrator that gets to 150F+ for 12 hours and I get completely dry fruits with no potency loss. Psilocybin & Psilocin Chemistry Use Heat! SHIT THAT GETS REPEATED DAILY Please do not refer to spawning a bulk substrate as a casing. Coir/verm is bulk substrate material. They used to refer to a bulk substrate as a casing, but now it just adds confusion. Its called a spawning to a bulk substrate, not casing. A casing layer is a non nutritious top layer usually applied to a fully colonized bulk substrate for moisture retention and pinning. When you do this it is called casing, see where it can get confusing? P.Cubensis do no benefit from a casing layer.(usually) *CASINGS* Quote: *METABOLITES / MYC PISS* Quote: Quote: Quote: Quote: Quote: Quote: Quote: *Overlay* Quote: http://www.shroomery.org/forums/ Quote: http://www.shroomery.org/forums/ Quote: http://www.shroomery.org/forums/ Quote: http://www.shroomery.org/forums/ Quote: http://www.shroomery.org/forums/ >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Quote: Mushroom Cultivation Abbreviations 50/50 = 50% vermiculite/50% peat moss aq. = aqueous (water based) BRF = Brown Rice Flour CFL(s) = Compact Florescent Light bulb(s) coir = coco coir; coconut fiber; coconut "hair" contam = contamination DNR = Dunk N' Roll FAE = Fresh Air Exchange FC = Fruiting Chamber G2G = Grain to Grain [transfer] GB = Glove Box GE = Gas Exchange GH = Green House GLC = Grain Liquid Culture HEPA = High Efficiency Particulate Arrestor hpoo = horse manure inoc = inoculate or inoculant karo = A brand of light corn syrup (dextrose) LC = Liquid Culture LME = Light Malt Extract Martha = "Martha Stewart everyday stationary storage closet", a shelf inside a zippered plastic cover MEA = Malt Extract Agar MS = Multi-Spore MT = Mono Tub myc = mycelium PC = Pressure Cooker; sometimes used as shorthand for P. cubensis PDA = Potato Dextrose Agar PF = Psilocybe Fanaticus, author of the "PF Tek" pin = primordia, the beginning of a mushroom fruit body PMP = Poor Man's Pod PSI = Pounds per Square Inch RH = Relative Humidity RR = RogerRabbit SAB = Still-Air Box SFD('s)= Synthetic Filter-Disks SGFC = Shot Gun Fruiting Chamber SWIM = Someone Who Isn't Me tek = technique TiT = Tub in Tub TMC = Paul Stamets' "The Mushroom Cultivator" Trich. = Trichoderma verm = vermiculite WBS = Wild Bird Seed
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Smear in the shale Registered: 07/16/12 Posts: 16,431 Loc: Florida Last seen: 1 year, 4 months |
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Supplies & Materials The SGFC, this is a model employing a saran wrapped lid, since it did not come with a transparent lid. A proper SGFC should have 1/4"(6mm) holes spaced 2" apart in a grid pattern on all 6 sides(top and bottom) it is then filled with 5" of damp perlite. The chamber must also be raised so that air can pass up thru the bottom holes, and wick up moisture from the water evaporating off the perlite, this will create a very humid environment inside the chamber. An SGFC works off of the natural air currents in a room with no fans, mess with those currents and your humidity drops. NOTE: If your indoor humidity is less than 40%, the SGFC becomes quite troublesome to maintain, keep your indoor humidity as high as possible, use a cheap humidifier - Notahacker420 1) 1/2 pint very wide, not suitable for PF tek or anything other than Agar work, imo. 2) 1/2 Pint wide mouth, these are the optimal jars for PF tek/BRF cakes. 3) 1/2 pint tall widemouth, works for PF tek, but not optimal, will have longer colonization times. 4) 1 pint widemouth, not a good idea for PF tek, but can work for other special activities, such as grain spawns, or very big cakes. 5) 1 pint regular mouth, used for same reasons as #4. 6) 1 Quart jar, the preferred jar for any type of grain spawn, these also come in wide mouth - Tmethyl Vermiculite, used for many teks in mushroom cultivation. This can be added up to 50% in almost every substrate. It is also used a filter layer in the PF tek, as well as being used as a main component to the substrate, a time-tested and very popular material to mycology. It also comes in a few different grades, large, medium, small, fine. The picture below is a small grade, and optimal for PF tek. Vermiculite has not only nutrients fungi love, but also provides a texture and other properties not yet fully understood that increase yields and pinsets. Plant growers will tell you vermiculite has no nutrients(which they're also wrong about), but for fungi, vermiculite provides an excellent supplement - Tmethyl Poly-fill, used in monotubs as a filter material, can also be used as a GE (gas exchange) filter for spawn jars. The same stuff thats in your teddy bears, and pillows. But do not use old polyfill, it's likely loaded with contaminants - Tmethyl Wax Paper, used for wax paper casing - an unpublished unwritten tek created by RogerRabbit. Wax paper makes a great casing, by holding a pin inducing micro-climate just above the substrate, while still allowing light in. This is very important especially if you cannot provide an optimal fruiting environment in your fruiting chamber/monotub/Greenhouse. To apply it, cut off a piece roughly the size of your substrate, crumple it into a ball in your hands, uncrumple it, then blanket it on top of the substrate. Lift it to mist and fan as usual, and replace ever 2-3 days, or when it becomes soggy. This is best used on bulk substrates. A new method of using wax paper which has proven a success: (for cakes) To add wax paper to cakes which are not pinning very well, or taking to long to pin. Form a cup of wax paper by wrapping some wax paper around the jar that the cakes were colonized in. Place it over the cake, and lift it to mist and fan as normal. Some things that are good to know about wax paper are the earlier into fruiting you apply it the better, the reason is contaminants in your air will be landing on the wax paper instead of the substrate. Wax paper can be using on trays, without a fruiting chamber. Just make a tray, apply wax paper, and keep replacing it, as the mushrooms mature, you'll have to use larger pieces of wax paper. No fruiting chamber necessary. Tmethyl A typical monotub, the holes can be arranged in many different ways, but I've found that every arrangement works just fine. When in use, this tub will be filled with substrate and spawn up to just bellow the bottom holes. During the colonization period (after filling with spawn, and sub) you tape the holes shut, so nothing can get in or out. Once the substrate is fully colonized, you remove the tape, and lightly stuff the holes with polyfill, this is called 'inducing fruiting' NOTE: In arid, low humidity geographic regions, it may be best to stuff the polyfill a little tighter - Tmethyl 10ml/cc and 10ml/cc syringes, if you order a syringe from a vendor it will come in a 10-12ml/cc syringe - Tmethyl Felt GE lids, just a piece of felt silicone glued over a 1/4" hole drilled into the lid. You can inoculate through the felt, as long as you cool off the needle in sterile water, or spray it with alcohol before jabbing the felt. But it is not recommended, and these are best used in G2G(Grain to Grain) transfers - Tmethyl G2G felt GE lids, basically metal versions of the above ^ - Notahacker420 Self healing injection ports, used on lids for spawn jars. Comes in many shapes and sized. I prefer to use a blob of silicone as an injection port - Notahacker420 Magnetic stirrers, these are placed inside an LC prior to sterilization, and inoculation. Then the LC jars are sat atop a magnetic stirrer base, which magnetically spins this them at high speeds, keeping a beneficial vortex current inside the LC - Hoobatech Inoculation loops, is a simple tool used mainly by microbiologists to retrieve an inoculum from a culture of microorganisms. The loop is used in the cultivation of microbes on plates by transferring inoculum for streaking. If you are using a metal loop, flame sterilize it until it is red. Allow it to cool. Do NOT wave it in the air to cool it faster, that increases contamination. If you are using disposable plastic pipettes, do not flame it. Do not touch the loop with you fingers or let it touch any nonsterile surface. This is an optional tool, used in agar work - Hoobatech Parafilm, is a plastic paraffin film with a paper backing primarily used in laboratories. It is commonly used for sealing or protecting vessels (such as flasks, agar plates). It is ductile, malleable, waterproof, odorless, thermoplastic, semi-transparent and cohesive - Hoobatech A scalpel, and replacement bladed, most commonly used to make agar transfers, in attempts to isolate a strain/monoculture. Isolate grows perform much better than multi spore grows - Hoobatech Rye grains, many cultivators consider this the best grain type for making spawn jars. They hold high amounts of moisture and never stick together. They are very easy to prepare and highly nutritious to your mushrooms. You may also substitute Wheat grains in the place of Rye - Headacherelief Rye grains, after being soaked in coffee/water and simmered, ready to load into PC - Headacherelief Coco coir, one of the most popular bulk substrates in monotubs, and trays. You simply pasteurize it, place it in a monotub, then add your grain spawn, mix well, then add a layer of coir over the top, being sure to leave no exposed grains. NOTE: This brand of Coir is purchased from pet stores, and is the best kind. Some Brands come with Trichoderma spores in the coir, since Trich is very beneficial for plants. Avoid non-pet store brands - Hoobatech Felt, used as a filter material on spawn jars, very cheap, and simple - Hoobatech Face mask, you know what these are for. You can never take TOO many sterile precautions - Hoobatech Pre-sterilized petri dishes, used in agar work - Hoobatech Agar powder, comes in many forms, and can be purchased in organic food marts, Asian food marts, science supply, or fungiperfecti.com has my favorite agar (ready to use) mixture - Hoobatech A laminar flowhood, these can be constructed at home, or bought online. This is a commercial version, they are used in agar work, G2G transfers, and many other mycological activities - Hoobatech BRF - Brown rice flour, the main nutritional ingredient in BRF/PF cakes, keep this bag sealed very well, it has a tendency to attract many insects and parasites - Tmethyl 70% alcohol, this is the optimal sanitizing agent used in mushrooms cultivation, this also comes in 50% (too weak) and 91% (too strong) 70% is optimal because it has just the right amount of water and alcohol to allow cellular osmosis, thus killing contamination and sanitizing more effectively, use 70% - Tmethyl Perlite, a very popular item in mushroom cultivation, it has many pits, craters and cavities on a macroscopic level, this gives it a massive surface area, making perlite one of the best materials for evaporation. It's used to humidify SGFC(shotgun fruiting chambers) among other things - Headacherelief(1) & Tmethyl(3) Gypsum! Gypsum will definitely increase yields when added to horse manure, or ANY other substrate for that matter. Calcium and sulfur are both nutrients used in mushroom fruitbody formation. In addition, gypsum prevents the wild swings in pH we often see as the mushroom mycelium colonizes a substrate. Use it at 5% to 10% by volume - Tmethyl Horse manure, the picture below displays perfectly aged manure, it has been leeched in the field, and is ready to use. It will have only a slight earthy smell, if your manure spells of ammonia or smells fresh, it is not aged enough - Tmethyl Wild bird seed (WBS), this form of grains are used for spawn, very popular, very effective, and very cheap. This stuff comes in so many different types and brands that I see posts of people trying to find the right kind on a daily basis. The below picture is the CORRECT MIXTURE - Tmethyl Sterile swabs, these have many uses, but I use them to transfer spores from a print to a syringe or to a shotglass, then sucked up with syringe, etc - Tmethyl Perhaps, the ultimate instant casing. I've had multiple successful tests substituting the wax paper with bubble wrap (small or large bubbles, both work) Bubbles face down, towards to substrate. Bubble wrap never needs replaced, can be sanitized with alcohol, and creates an optimal primorida inducing micro climate. The downside to bubble wrap is once it's cut to size, that piece is now devoted to that size substrate. - Tmethyl
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Smear in the shale Registered: 07/16/12 Posts: 16,431 Loc: Florida Last seen: 1 year, 4 months |
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Tips & Tricks This, is in my opinion, Cubensis in an optimal environment, no fuzzy feet, means plenty of FAE, the color of the caps, length of the stems, width of stems represents sufficient lighting, and further supports good FAE, if there is a goal to aim for, your mushrooms looking like these should be it: (These were grown in my GH, the cakes are 1pint) Sniff it when you birth it Smell your substrates, smell your spawns, smell your cakes. It should smell like a mushroom if colonized with mushroom mycelium, if it stinks or smells sweet, it's contaminated with bacteria and should be tossed. Please note that many edible and medicinal mushrooms smell different, and this tip is mainly aimed at Cubensis and Paneaolus. If you're growing Cubensis or other 'active' species, do not tell anyone about your grow. When I say 'anyone' I mean not even your best friend, not your mother or any other family member, nobody needs to know. Don't even tell them you have some Cubensis. Tell them "I know a guy who has some". Do not label your jars, syringes or any other items with the actual species of mushroom you're growing (If you're growing a psychoactive species) Label the jars as "Agaricus" or "Ganoderma" or "Shitake". If you've received a pre-labled syringe from a vendor, remove the label, write on your own with a permanent marker - Tmethyl Shit for noobs https://www.shroomery.org/forums Use the "Advanced Search Function" to weed out all outdated/misinformation. Oh, tyvek sleeves for a SAB can be sterilized in a jar and reused indefinitely. Oats, not rye, oats. They are 10% the cost and have the same size and consistency as rye. I prep exactly like I would rye. Soak grains in weak coffee or hpoo tea not water, its the key trust me. - WillSolvem If you've got a question to ask, take a good photo of the problem before asking - Guy1980 Use newspaper or a towel to dry your grains lay them flat out and wait till they are cold! This advice for me really was gold, as I seriously doubt I could get the moisture content right with simply shaking and tossing alone! With Pf tek be aware that your needle might clog. Seriously there were many funerals in this corner of the world for many sadly missed cakes these last few weeks and I believe shooting like 3 or 5 times too much solution into the jars may well have been the cause! Possibly... Dont pull air into your syringe easy noob mistake to make! Put needle inside a flame and then pull! When I started out I hadn't even considered this eventuality! Pack pf substrate in loose, but also dont make your verm layer too deep, as even if you did make your substrate nice and loose that aint gonna help much if you've crammed it down under a great load of verm. If your a noob then your probably best of making a proper filter for your PF jars, as I doubt very few people, like me will be able to resist spinning them around and inspecting them at least 5 times every hour. Better yet stick them in a box with a padlock and swallow the key! Go with spore prints and not syringes! I bemoaned the fact that I couldn't get syringes, but making your own syringes will teach you everything you need to know about sterile technique and gives one a real sense of growing confidence after the first few times of clean knock ups. After that you wont be second guessing yourself so much and will have a nicer understanding of how there is at least a little room for error and sloppiness! Also will save money! You dont necessarily have to shake all your myc up vigorously in order to open up new innoc points. I found even a light rolling and gentle shake around of a very small ball of myc served to open up new growth points in areas where they were badly needed! Try to look for a shotgun chamber with a nice gluey looking plastic, hard to explain but for me I found the one I bought was pretty impossible to fuck up when drilling, as did many other cheaper boxes I practiced on before I began. The glassy plastic tends to crack. No idea if I'm making sense on this one, but suffice to say some plastic boxs are very drill friendly and some aint! Measure your holes with a ruler, and follow the RR 2 inch specs. So many people come on here with SG's that look like some greedy mad woodpecker has had a go at them having obviously thought that the tek called simply for a big box full of holes! When it comes to tyvek polly-fill, micro pore tape, SFD's, rubber injection ports, RTV silicon etc buy the whole lot, you will find many uses for all of that stuff and especially with things like the RTV and micro-pore... Oh and you will need a drill, I would never have thought before hand (drill and mycology?) but mine is now utterly indispensable! And finally patience is the most difficult part of all! Best way to forget about a grow is to start a new one, and start worrying about that one! Worrying about the new one? Why start another and worry about that one! Course its a recipe for insanity, a severe lack of shelf space, and a grumbling missus but hey it works for me! - Wolf8312 After you shake up a syringe and the 'plug' is swapped for the needle, squirt out a bit of solution from the needle tip, THEN flame sterilize. That little drop that gets exposed to the air = instant first jar contamination. Something obvious yet overlooked - Ima Add a touch of vinegar to PC water to make sure your jars don't get cloudy on the outside - zMan If you're doing grain quart jars, don't forget to wipe the threads and the inside of the very top of the jar clean before you put the lid on before you PC... just like you would a pf jar... I think a lot of people forget to do this or don't think they need to. tip #2- learn and build a fool proof lid design that you trust... and if you're using metal bands with tyvek... be sure you take a pliers and squeeze that inner band all the way flush so it doesn't cut through your tyvek. like so.. Patience.... Forstner bits for drilling lids... Holesaws/spade bits for drilling monotub/SAB holes... Also, this tip from my SAB tek about drilling holes: 1. Place your tote on it’s side where the armholes will be and drill forward, from the inside, to start the hole. a. The holesaw will lock-up against the tote once the Arbor is all the way through and the edges hit the container. b. Switch the drill to reverse, then SLOWLY, with a slight rocking motion, work your way through the tote. DON’T force it! You’ll crack your tote, let the saw do the work. i. I don’t remember who said to run it in reverse, or even if they were being serious, but it works way better than going forward. I haven’t cracked a tote since using this method w/ the holesaw (see picture). ii. If you’re doing this outside and it’s cold, you may want to warm up the tote w/ a hair drier for a few seconds. This will reduce the brittleness of the tote where you’re drilling. - TrancendingLife Watch it, buy it. http://www.mushroomvideos.com/ - Twistedty Make a template before you drill your shotgun. Use the short 1/2 pint jars, not the tall ones - mjmihalov Don't try to save contaminated jars. Take things in steps; i.e. don't jump straight to bulk. Learn to share your excitement here and not with your friends/family, it could keep you out of trouble. Mark your jars with symbols or dots instead of names, that way if someone accidentally sees them they won't scream Ps. Cubensis Golden Teacher (or whatever). Allowing you to simply play them off as edibles. Keep a journel, that way you can track what does and doesn't work. This one is more about the forums and how to help keep your post from being skipped over, but I felt like it would be helpful for noobs none the less. Break up your thoughts, and don't talk like some high school girl texting her "BFF" - Wire5 Vermiculite and pearlite are both important, although they are not interchangeable. Vermiculite - is used to help keep moister in substrate, and to help keep your substrate from becoming too dense. Pearlite - is used to keep humidity in you FC, or even better your properly built SGFC. It doesn't work correctly in left submerged in water - Iwannbemro Don't get so stoned that you fuck shit up! But seriously, Here are some: Don't cut corners. Spray the air with a fine bleach/water solution before doing sterile work Make more spawn than you need. Buy a mycology book Become obsessed - Oeric McKenna The #1 tip I can possibly give to a noob is to leave your stuff the fuck alone. Think of it like a cat. It wants attention when it wants attention. It'll usually accept more (up to a point) when it doesn't really want it, but it won't like you as much. And there are a few things you can do to just completely make it hate you with no chance of reconciliation. Bottom line - do it right the first time and then let it do its' thing. If it doesn't look right, throw it out, think about your procedure some more and start again. The same goes for mushrooms. - 36fuckin5BAG FRUITING INFORMATION: 1. Basics: REMEMBER. The bag contains a living organism. It will die if you neglect it. Fungi need moisture, light and fresh air. Light quality is important and most commonly overlooked; natural light thru a window is best, indirect but bright. Other sources include florescent or LED light. The brighter the better. High humidity is essensial for pin formation and development. We provide you with a piece of woven fabric called reemay which should be moistened and draped over your open mushroom bag at all times. Keep the reemay misted with a fine mist sprayer or soak it in water three or four times a day minimum. Fresh air allows for normal development of most mushrooms. By cutting the bag open, you are providing the spawn plenty of fresh air to grow. 2. Storing your bag:Store your bag at room temperature until you are ready to open it. If you want to keep your bag in storage for long periods, refrigeration is best. In general, the warmer it is the faster development occurs. 3. Cutting open the bag: When the bag is fully colonized, (completely covered in fungus), it will begin to form primordia or “pins” which are essencially baby mushrooms. At this point, either refrigerate the bag or cut it open. Keep your block somewhere that you frequent often, like the kitchen You can set the bag on a dinner plate or in a shallow tupper ware. Remember it needs light. Fruiting temperatures between 50 and 75 are ideal for most species. Depending on temp and humidity, outside might be better than inside. For instance if it is cool and misty or rainy, stick the block outside on covered porch or window sill. If it is hot and sunny or below freezing, bring it in. The higher the humidity the better. Once you cut the bag open, no turning back!! Follow the directions for each species below. a. Reishi- several options. In high co2, the reishi will form “antlers” right in the closed bag. These antlers are considered highly medicinal and are quite valuable. You can let the antler form grow in the bag as long as you like. When you do cut the bag open and fresh air enters, the form will change to the typical shelf fungus form. Cut the very top of the bag off, fold the edge and clothspin or chip clip it closed to conserve moisture. Reishi can also be fruited out of the side of the bag by making several small slits along the side wall of the bag. b. Shiitake-IMPORTANT! Shiitake must “brown” and “bark” INSIDE the bag! Do not open the bag until it is entirely brown. In addition the surface of the block will take on a roughened texture, called “popcorning” or “barking”. This process can take up to three months from spawning date! Once this has occurred, spank the bag! Give it ten good spanks with your hand. NO JOKE! This triggers fruiting! Next, cut off the entire bag and wrap with reemay. KEEP MISTED and get ready. Shiitake fruits madly. c. King Oyster, Beech and Enoki: These benefit from high co2 levels. Once pinning occurs, cut the very top to the bag off, fold the edge down and clip it with a cloths pin or chip clip. Unclip as the mushrooms approach the top of the bag. d. All other oysters, including Elm: Require a lot of fresh air and bright light to produce normal fruits. If the pins form mostly at the top of the bag, you can cut the bag off right at the level of the pins, (no bag wall). If the pins for all over the block, you can cut the entire bag off and wrap the block in reemay. KEEP IT MOIST! Oysters love water. e. Lions Mane: Can be top fruited. Cut bag top off, leaving about 2 inches of bag wall intact. Drape reemay over the top. Or even better, make two 1 inch slits anywhere along the bag where thick white fungus is prominent and the fruits will grow out of the slits. It’s a site to see! Be sure to drape the reemay over the bag so it keeps the developing fruits moist. But watch out for the fruits growing THRU the reemay. 5. Harvesting: Cut the fruits off with a sharp knife right where they come off the block. DO NOT CUT INTO THE BLOCK! COOK until Golden brown!! You derive little to no nutritional or medicinal value from fungi unless they are thoroughly cooked. AND THEY TASTE BETTER!! 30-40 minutes on medium heat is reasonable. 6. Second flush: Let the block rest for up to a week, then immerse it in tap water for 24hrs to trigger a second flush of mushrooms. Exception is Lions Mane, which will fruit again out of the same holes. Take the entire bag off at this point. Wrap in reemay! Keep moist. Look for new primordia. 7. Eventually, your block will contaminate. This is normal, usually after the first or second flush. You might observe green or black mold, similar to what you would see on cheese or bread, growing on the surface of the block. At this point, put your block outside if it is above freezing and it will typically fruit another time or two. If it is winter time, put the block in a black plastic garbage bag and store in your basement or garage till spring. Then soak it and stick it outside. DON’T GIVE UP ON YOUR BLOCK! We have had blue oyster blocks fruit a dozen or more times, each flush slightly smaller than the last. - Amanita Virosa Sick of spraining your wrist opening stuckjar rings? Flip the jar upside down and tap on the table at all around the ring. This will allow you to easily open. - Galactic_Smurf
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Smear in the shale Registered: 07/16/12 Posts: 16,431 Loc: Florida Last seen: 1 year, 4 months |
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It has only begun my friends. The best is yet to come.
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Smear in the shale Registered: 07/16/12 Posts: 16,431 Loc: Florida Last seen: 1 year, 4 months |
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If nobody contributes some normal typical growth patterns of MS inoculation I'll have to activate phase II.. forceful contribution. This is where I scout key threads and steal peoples pics and post them here. With credits of course. Threads with names like "I see growth" or " my spores germinated!" Will be targeted.
You make a valid case C0ri this will be cleared up tonight. Further suggestions welcomed and embraced this is a community effort.
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Smear in the shale Registered: 07/16/12 Posts: 16,431 Loc: Florida Last seen: 1 year, 4 months |
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Epic shots Exiled I'll put them together when I get home. Fully appreciate your time.
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Smear in the shale Registered: 07/16/12 Posts: 16,431 Loc: Florida Last seen: 1 year, 4 months |
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Alright time to fix some stuff up. I took a few shots to add as well:
Paneaolus Cyanescens pins: Glow in the dark mushroom mycelium (Omphalotus nidiformis): Edible Enoki mycelium (Flammulina velutipes) looks very cobweb-like but thats normal:
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Smear in the shale Registered: 07/16/12 Posts: 16,431 Loc: Florida Last seen: 1 year, 4 months |
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Smear in the shale Registered: 07/16/12 Posts: 16,431 Loc: Florida Last seen: 1 year, 4 months |
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Thank you Pastywhyte, added.
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Smear in the shale Registered: 07/16/12 Posts: 16,431 Loc: Florida Last seen: 1 year, 4 months |
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Great sets there Kmil!
We are needing more shots of "basic" brf jars colonizing, and other normal everyday stuff. Also need more shots of contams of all types, and I especially want more shots of your fucked up fruiting chambers, or mistakes you've made. Another great way for new people to learn is to see YOUR mistakes. Don't be shy!
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Smear in the shale Registered: 07/16/12 Posts: 16,431 Loc: Florida Last seen: 1 year, 4 months |
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That's going to help a lot Frank. Its very important to know what trich looks like before it turns green. Because by then its already too late.
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Smear in the shale Registered: 07/16/12 Posts: 16,431 Loc: Florida Last seen: 1 year, 4 months |
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Lmao that second shot of PE mono is ridiculous.
You seldom see shots worth such admiration.
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Smear in the shale Registered: 07/16/12 Posts: 16,431 Loc: Florida Last seen: 1 year, 4 months |
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1slowtv, I definitely can use a few of those pics, but can you upload them through this website so I can use them?
Here is where you upload, then paste links again: https://www.shroomery.org/forums I am a bit behind been working 13+ hours a day, I'll be able to get caught up tonight or tomorrow night. I'll be at Seaworld the majority of tomorrow though -.-
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Smear in the shale Registered: 07/16/12 Posts: 16,431 Loc: Florida Last seen: 1 year, 4 months |
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In the OP I added an index and will begin to organize all the shots into easy to find categories. Please take a look at the index and tell me if you have any suggestions for it. Such as add new subjects remove subjects, whatever.
Once this part is done we will be able to see where we are lacking and where we have an abundance.
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Smear in the shale Registered: 07/16/12 Posts: 16,431 Loc: Florida Last seen: 1 year, 4 months |
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Time to fix this thing up, going to work on it tonight.
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
Edited by Tmethyl (12/06/12 04:37 PM)
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Smear in the shale Registered: 07/16/12 Posts: 16,431 Loc: Florida Last seen: 1 year, 4 months |
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They were just for getting the front page organized, I thought they looked corny and simple anyways.
incoming.
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