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OfflineTmethylM
Smear in the shale
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Registered: 07/16/12
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How it should & shouldn't look - NEW CULTIVATORS GUIDE * 129
    #17231150 - 11/16/12 06:24 PM (11 years, 2 months ago)

:growshrooms:

The below visual guide is designed for novice and inexperienced mushroom cultivators. For some, it's easier and more comforting to know they are(or aren't) on the right path by visually making a comparison with an experienced growers cultures. That's what this guide is for, visual comparison. Please feel free to thank and rate any of the contributors.


What It Shouldn't Look Like <-Click
Genetic Mutations Section <-Click
General Cultivation Information & FAQ <-Click
Edible, Medicinal, and Novelty Fungi <-Click
Supplies and Materials <-Click
Tips and Tricks <-Click



1) Mycelium
2) Hyphal Knots & Primordia
3) Pins
4) When to Harvest
5) Mature Mushrooms
6) Spore Prints
7) Mycelium on Agar
8) Panaeolus cyanescens Section
9) How it Shouldn't Look
10) Poor Fruiting Conditions


Cubensis mycelium just starting to colonize grain spawn jars - Tmethyl

Typical colonization patterns of a multispore inoculation in a BRF mixture - Tmethyl

Cubensis mycelium, the definition of rhizomorphic colonization, 1/2 pint BRF cake (Brown Rice Flower) - Revolutionctm

Cubensis mycelium CLOSE-UP (macro), colonizing multiple substrates - Tmethyl

Mycelium breaking the surface of the substrate, in a monotub - Tmethyl

Super macro shots of Mycelium on grain spawn - Timehole

Newly germinated mycelium on a BRF(PF tek) jar, and newly germinated mycelium on rye spawn jar (This is what it should look like 5-10 days after spore inoculation, but in rare cases can take up to 2-3 weeks to see growth) - Rohr

Rhizomorphic growth on WBS (Wild Bird Seed) - FrankHorrigan

Two jars on the left were at 30% colonization when the three jars on the right are at 70%. Matching growth by shaking the two and leaving the others to finish. You don't want to wait more than 2 days to use a fully colonized rye jar - Exiledmonkies

Cubensis mycelium in WBS/rye quarts, this is when I like to shake my jars and distribute the mycelium - Tmethyl

Penis Envy strain monoculture in WBS(Wild Bird seed) - FrankHorrigan

MS(multispore) inoculation, mycelium germinating at inoculation points. Do not shake grain jars if you inoculated with MS, only shake once they reach 30% colonization, then allow the finish - Tmethyl

Corn starch liquid culture syringe - Exiledmonkies

Multiple liquid cultures of Cubensis mycelium - Hoobatech

Cubensis liquid culture - Alembic






Knots, small pins - Bodhisatta

Knots, primordia, small pins - Tmethyl

Primordia and knots - Tmethyl

Primordia/knots - NatureBoy

Primordia and knots - Creekfreek

Hyphal knots, macro close-up - Tmethyl

Primordia and knots - Dodgem

Cubensis hyphal knots on rhizomorphic mycelium - Tmethyl

Cubensis "roping" mycelium, also primordia and knots on right side, 1pint BRF(Brown Rice Flour) jar - Tmethyl

Pins, Primorida, and Hyphal knots in monotub - Elkart

Primordia growing on a pin, and various hyphal knots - Tmethyl

Cubensis hyphal knots, primordia, and pin, extreme close up! - Tmethyl

Hyphal knotting close-up, inside a monotub (one day before fruiting) - Tmethyl

Hyphal knots, primordia/pins - k00laid

An expensive shot of Hyphal knots and Primordia (and some pins) growing on a "cash casing" - RogerRabbit






Pins growing in a wine glass - Tmethtyl

A gorgeous set of pins - PrimalSoup

An interestingly shaped pin set - TranscendingLife

Some very clean pins - TheApprentice

Pins on BRF cakes - Tsmtbs07

The kangaroo approves of this monotub pin set - Tmethyl

Invitro pinning 1pint BRF(Brown Rice Flour) jars *Jar inverted for picture, do not invert your jars* - Tmethyl

Cubensis pinning on bulk cake - Tmethyl

Psilocybe Cubensis pin set in monotub - FrankHorrigan

Invitro pins, and impressive mycelial network on glass - Elkart

1 pint Brf/Rye hybrid cakes pinning in GH setup (Green house) - Tmethyl

Cubensis pins in monotub, all aiming towards light source (window) - Tmethyl

Cubensis pins growing from a 1" WBS (Wild Bird Seed) substrate - Citric

Pristine Penis Envy var. pins on a bulk cake - k00laid

A glorious shot of hundreds of invitro pins - RogerRabbit






Psilocybe Cubensis fruits, 1 day before harvest - Tmethyl

A good time to harvest (opinionated) - Tmethyl

No better time to harvest, than now - Applesmasher420

Harvest time - TheApprentice

An epic shot of a perfect time to harvest, admire these beauties for a moment! - PrimalSoup

Time to harvest these - Tmethyl

This is when to harvest! - Elkart

A great time to harvest - Tmethyl

A little late for some on the outer regions, but a great time to harvest this entire tub, especially the center - Citric

A beautifully timed harvest - Tmethyl

A perfect time to harvest this 110g mutant nicknamed "The Pumpkin" - Tmethyl

Good time to harvest these KSSS mushrooms, this particular strain tends to develop very short very wide fruits in the first flush - Beethoven

Cubensis roughly 1 day before a perfect harvest time - Amanita Virosa

Harvesting these now, is good for me - NatureBoy





Mature psilocybe Cubensis on BRF(Brown rice flour) cakes, from under - Tmethyl

Mature Psilocybe Cubensis through the peephole(Fresh air exchange hole in monotubs) - Tmethyl

Fully mature Psilocybe cubensis fruits - Applesmasher420

Mature Psilocybe Cubensis fruit - FrankHorrigan

Cubensis proper blue bruising, darkness/shade can vary - Tmethyl

Mature Cubensis, split from over-humidity - Tmethyl

Some cubensis fruits that were grown inside a cup - Citric

What happens when you allow your cubes to become too mature? Sporesplosion. These are going to taste like shit - Elkart

Mature Penis Envy strain Psilocybe Cubensis - RogerRabbit

Mature cubensis fruits, in a plastic tarp fruiting chamber set up. Growing on a straw log - RogerRabbit





Psilocybe cubensis print on foil - Applesmasher420

Cubensis prints on foil - RogerRabbit

Cubensis spore prints on foil - Tmethyl

A simple printing method which involves filling some small containers with a small amount sterile distilled water, then flipping the lids over and placing a mushroom cap on it to drop spores, then flip the lid back over onto the container and shake it. Instant dark spore solution with very little contamination possibility. Use about 1cc/ml or less per 10-12cc/ml syringe (1cc spore solution 9-11cc water) - Tmethyl



Healthy mycelium on agar Van Hatton

A pin cloned on agar - TrancendingLife

Cubensis mycelium on agar with a mysterious ring formation.. - Creekfreek

Heavily rhizomorphic mycelium on agar - FrankHorrigan

Rye agar, half pint "spacial" jars - Tmethyl

Cubensis mycelium on agar, random colonies - Exiledmonkies

Dikaryotic hyphae, with water droplets on them. These droplets were thought to be yeast contamination buds - Amanita Virosa

Clean cubensis mycelium on agar - Dmonkey1

Clean isolate(monoculture) - Bodhisatta

Clean mycelium transfers - Bodhisatta

Spore germination on agar, and Psilocybe cubensis spore micrograph - Bodhisatta





Paneaolus cyanescens partially and fully colonized 1quart rye apawns - Tmethyl

Panaeolus Cyanescens mycelium partially/fully colonizing a tray - Tmethyl

Paneaolus mycelium Mono cultures on agar - FrankHorrigan

Paneaolus Cyanescens monoculture in WBS(Wild Bird Seed) - FrankHorrigan

Paneaolus Cyanescens pins - Tmethyl

Mature and almost mature Pan Cyan(Paneaolus Cyanescens) fruits, gills, and random Pan Cyan photography - Tmethyl

Quote:

Blue Helix said:
One of the hardest things to make in pan cyans is the casing.  If you do not allow the substrate to colonize long enough, then the casing will be overtaken by overlay.  Overlay can partially or totally close the casing off to pin formation because pins only form at the interface between the casing and substrate.  An overlaid casing will yield at least 50% lower than a well-colonized one.  If it's heavily overlaid, you'll lose everything but a few tiny mushrooms.So what should you look for?

First an overlaid casing - note this is a result of not allowing the bags to colonize hard enough and/or not alowing the trays to sit long enough after they are laid before applying the casing:



Sometimes you'll get pins where the overlay isn't as bad, but you can forget a canopy of fruits for this pan cyans (cubes really don't care much) if you have overlay.  Let's look at some that have partial overlay with pins (failures):



A properly colonized bit of non-nutritive casing (if you put nutrients in it like coco coir forget it), looks like (and performs like) this:




So what's the difference?  There is a persistent myth this is purely a matter of genetics.  In my opinion and experience it's not just genetics, although they do, admittedly, cause a propensity to overlay.  In 2018 I proved to myself that even genes prone to overlay could produce high yields and dense pin sets if precautions were taken. 

So what what precautions?
  • If you colonize in a spawn bag, break up the substrate at 50% to 70%.  Allow the mycelium to well recolonize the bag.
  • If you colonize in a spawn bag, do not open it to lay the trays the day it appears fully colonized.  Give it between two and four more days. 
  • Once you lay the trays, put some toothpick-poked saran wrap over it an allow it to colonize at fruiting temperatures for 1 to 4 days.  You want it as colonized as it possibly can be without stalling it out.  During this phase, before you put the casing on, you want it to look like thick clouds of mycelium over the substrate.  The thicker the better.  Do NOT store the tray in low temperatures during this time.
  • After colonization, make sure you apply a non-nutritive casing.  Coco coir is NOT idea (a fact I proved in 2004 through a detailed side-by-side grow).  If you suspect something might have nutrients in it but can we rinsed out, rinse it out!
  • Provide an even casing (the more even the better; user a roller if you want) and allow it to colonize being very wet.  Keep it well hydrated.  Some folks even hand-mist it just up to the point little puddles form every day or other day.  I usually don't do this, but I do keep it very wet.
Just think of it this way: you are trying to get the mycelium to know it's finished with vegetative substrate growth by well colonizing the substrate.  That will trigger the casing colonization and pinning.
Hope this helps!!!





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¯\_(ツ)_/¯


Edited by Tmethyl (07/12/20 11:45 AM)


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OfflineTmethylM
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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: Revolutiontcm] * 15
    #17231313 - 11/16/12 06:48 PM (11 years, 2 months ago)

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This was a sorghum grain jar contaminated with mold, probably Dactylium(cobweb) note to clear difference in healthy white mycelium with mold mycelium. - Mycotylium

This image has a graphic description, please read the photo Bodhisatta

This is blue bruising, it's very common and not a contamination. It is an indicator that the cake has been physically contacted (touched, picked up) or is getting to dry, increase misting and check your humidity if you see blue bruising in areas that you know you did not contact - Tsmtbs07 

Cobweb mold(Dactylium) on a coir/verm substrate - Hoobatech

Cobweb mold colonizing inside 1/2 pint jar - Tmethyl

A disturbing mixture of metabolites, and bacteria, I hope your jars never look like this! - Tmethyl

Trichoderma on coir/verm, pre-sporeulated trich(not yet turned green[upper portion of pic]) - MashedGlasses

Bacterial contamination in a BRF cake jar - Trip352

Cubensis mycelium, meeting with the mycelium of a contaminant mushroom mycelium, this is a tricky one. Cubensis is more silky, and always flows, notice how the contaminant mushroom mycelium does not flow, and looks similar to cobweb mold - Tmethyl

Fungal gnat, or close species. This is what happens when gnats lay eggs in your grain jars, you can see the enzymes secreted by the maggots are not only killing the mycelium, but liquifying the grains, the maggots may of also brought in some bacteria. This jar is garbage - Tmethyl

Heavy Lipstick Mold contamination (Geotrichum candidium) in red areas. Pink mold(Neurospora) in purple areas - KafkasDog

Trichoderma (mature) on monotub surface - Tmethyl

Trichoderma on coir (not green yet) - Paleopoint

Cobweb mold on monotub surface/side - Tmethyl

Baccilus bacteria contamination on BRF cake, agar, and grain spawn - Exiledmonkies

Yeast Contamination on LME(Light Malt Extract) agar - Tmethyl

An Aspergillus niger contamination, TOSS IT ASAP! - Tmethyl

Trichoderma (immature) contamination coir/coffee/verm substrate, the trichoderma is not green yet, it hasn't sporulated - FrankHorrigan

Early trichoderma on coir substrate, monotub (immature, but green is visible if you look close) - Don Quixote

Trichoderma on grain spawn, trich mycelium is visible - TrancendingLife

Are there even words to describe this? It's Apergillus, trichoderma, nuerospora, penicillium, and ganoderma mycelium.. on wood - Tmethyl

Heavy bacterial contamination in WBS spawn - TrancendingLife

Trichoderma/Aspergillus in spawn jar, panaeolus cyanescens - TheCyndicate

Aspergillus contamination in spawn jar (similar to trich but not the same) the very last picture is oyster mycelium eating the contamination, oyster mycelium is very tough. - Tmethyl

Extremely contaminated monotub(s), most of it is Trichoderma, but there is some cobweb, and I'm SURE some other nasty shit in there - Jenkinz

Trichoderma contaminated monotub, it's fruiting as a last resort to get out some spores before the trich annihilates it - Numnum59

Cubensis fruits showing the classic signs of verticillium bacterial contamination (deformed fruit, brown speckles on stipe), the last 3 pictures display some other effects verticillium may have on your fruits(grey caps, peeling, cracking, etc) -  Rohr (First2pics) - SuchSmartMonkeys (Last3Pics)
]
A beautiful example of Penicillium contamination on agar - Amanita Virosa

Aspergillus contaminated spawn jar on left, clean jar on right - Amanita Virosa

Trichoderma before it turned green (sporulated) on coir/verm substrate - Timehole

Not sure exactly where to start on these 2 jars, but your jars should never look like this! - Jcoonan

Trichoderma and other contaminations in these disgusting spawn jars - RogerRabbit

Multiple bacterial contaminations on agar - Dmonkey1

Trichoderma in grain spawn jars, and massive bacterial contamination in last 2 jars - TrancendingLife

More pink mold in these BRF jars probably Nuerospora - Jacobwtyler

Mold, and nasty bacteria - Creekfreek

Bacterial presence in this jar - Changealot

Pseudomas bacterial contamination, note the brown spotted areas, rotted areas, etc. Included microscopy of bacteria. - Bodhisatta

Cobweb mold in jars and on agar dishes. - Bodhisatta

Sour smelling white mold covering bulk substrate, look carefully. - Bodhisatta

Bacteria on agar(first 2 photos) Aspergillius mold in jars(3rd photo) Mold on agar(last photo) - Bodhisatta







This is the most common problem with using a PMP(poor mans pod) fruiting chamber, nowhere near enough FAE. These cakes are getting fresh air, but not enough to get rid of the c02 building up, so the cakes have developed heavy aerial mycelium, and the mushrooms are skinny and wimpy from trying to escape the bad environment, we recommend using an SGFC fruiting chamber nowadays, the days of the PMP are gone, for this exact reason - Creekfreek

This is what happens when a culture receives NO LIGHT - Doc_D

NO FAE, this is what happens to a cake which is being suffocated - Bree (and K1ngsp4de)

Very low FAE, causing some very skinny oddly shaped mushrooms - TrancendingLife

Poor FAE. Bad tub design. PastyWhite

The blue/grey tint on this monotub is from drying out, it will NEVER pin in these conditions - The1sttofall

Some suffering albino's, they are insufficient in FAE among other things, don't let your mushrooms look like this - Cronicr

The pic says it all, very poor FAE, very poor lighting, and other issues - Dodgem

This is what happens to a cake which is given nearly no FAE, and possible bad lighting. It's not happy, note the fuzzy bases of the mushrooms, this indicated low FAE, also notice the dark discolorations on the caps(not the dark purple, that's spores), this is waterlogging, it is being over misted - Kinetic

This is an insufficient environment, because pins only developed where the trash bag liner was laying on the sub. This means the rest of the substrate was not humid enough. This picture is also 100% proof of the wax paper casing concept working - DeadPhan

Here are some tiny pins caused by a dryer than normal substrate, dry subs can cayse tiny mushrooms, and even large-scale aborts - NatureBoy

This is aerial mycelium, it's an indicator of low FAE high c02 in the fruiting chamber - Eyeless_Cat

Aerial mycelium on BRF cake - Trip352

Cracking caps, low humidity, dry air, not enough misting, etc - SuchSmartMonkeys

Heavily over misted, notice the dark caps, with a caramel glaze look, they are near abortion due top over misting. There is also pooling water on the substrate surface, it is turning yellow because of the presence of bacteria. The mycelium is battling the bacteria by secreting metabolites/enzymes(yellow) - DeadPhan

Serious lack of FAE(Fresh Air Exchange) on BRF cake. Note the small caps, and long skinny stipe(stems) trying to escape high c02 levels - Pastywhyte

Cubensis fruits all damaged by over saturation, it looks similar to dry air damage. These fruits are waterlogged and were soaked for 1.5day straight - Tmethyl

Heavily over misted(leading to aborted fruits, and possible bacterial contamination) and insufficient lighting(tall skinny small caped fruits) - Mattsls101 
 
Pic 1 is heavily over-misted, and it also had insufficient lighting. Note the aborts, pic 2 is the bottom of a monotub displaying a ton of aborted bottom pins, there is also a high likelihood of these pins being contaminated with bacteria - Twistedty

These mushrooms are growing in a very hostile environment, and appear to be contaminated by a gay rabbit - RogerRabbit

I don't even know what to say about this tray, I don't know wtf he did to it... just avoid this :awesomenod: - Trip352

These Paneaolus cyanescens pins are aborting due to over misting, do not mist Pan pins, ever - Tmethyl



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OfflineTmethylM
Smear in the shale
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Registered: 07/16/12
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Last seen: 1 year, 4 months
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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: hoobatech] * 5
    #17232067 - 11/16/12 08:55 PM (11 years, 2 months ago)

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Genetic Mutations

It's clearly laughing at you, "git gud scrub!" - Tmethyl

This thing pregnant? I sure hope so - Tmethyl

Some upside-downers - Tmethyl

The "alien egg" :ooo: - Tmethyl

PE blob/mutants - TheNilsMeister

Wtf happened here? Oh god why? - SmokeyMcPot

Amazing genetics on this cap - DrFunkNshine

You going to let this mutant mock you like that? - Dodgem

Tits! It has tits!! - Creekfreek

Mutated and discolored gills, mutation - Applesmasher420

The 'praying monk' mutant - Applesmasher420

Corkscrew mutant! - Applesmasher420

This mutant.. is a fuckin' wreck :tongue: - Mush_room

A beautiful and intricate mutant(This is a picture of the gills) - Timehole

This is called 'pumpkin' genetics - Tmethyl

Beautiful double decker mutant - Trip352

A wtf mutant.. wtf? - Trip352

Neat mutants - Doc_d

Nice rosecombing mutants - FortinbraGhost

Mutants, and an especially LOVELY double decker mutant, growing upside down - Notahacker420

Some seriously impressive genetic diversity in this grow - JarryDee

Some basic first flush Penis Envy cubensis mutants - Hoobatech

Another double decker mutation - Timehole

Tentacle-like mutations on these cubensis fruits - RogerRabbit

Mutant Chantrelle (Cantharellus cibarius) growing right side up - RogerRabbit

Some interesting mutations - Exiledmonkies

Elephant mutants - Exiledmonkies

The 'shy' mutant - Exiledmonkies

Chubby mutations - Exiledmonkies

Mutants, some 'rosecombing' of the gills - MoGrow

A cool mutant, with a blob on top - Hoobatech

Mutant with it's close friend - Mykes Logos





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OfflineTmethylM
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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: Tmethyl] * 9
    #17245154 - 11/19/12 08:18 AM (11 years, 2 months ago)

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Edible, medicinal, & novelty mushroom mycelium

Glow in the dark mushroom mycelium (Omphalotus nidiformis) - Tmethyl

Edible Enoki mycelium (Flammulina velutipes) looks very cobweb-like, that's normal for this species - Tmethyl

Blue oyster mycelium in grain spawn jar - Tmethyl

Great shots of Lions Mane(Hericium erinaceus) mycelium on agar - Amanita Virosa

Reishi(Ganoderma Luccidum) mycelium on agar - Amanita Virosa

Cordyceps mycelium on LME(Light malt Extract) agar - RogerRabbit




Edible, medicinal, & novelty mushrooms

Omphalotus Nidiformis (Ghost mushroom) this is a species of bioluminescent(glowing) mushroom, cultivated indoors - Tmethyl

Young Blue Oysters(pleurotus columbinus), growing directly from jar mouths - Tmethyl

Enoki (Flamulina Velutipes) mature fruits [They appear this way when they have a good FAE, good FAE is not preferred for this species]- Transcendinglife

Enoki properly deprived of FAE to get the trademark tall stem small cap growth, which is highly recommended for this species - TrancendingLife

Lions mane(Hericium erinaceus) fruiting bodies - Amanita Virosa

Blue oyster(Pleurotus ostreatus var. columbinus) fruits - Amanita Virosa

King oyster(Pleurotus eryngii) primordia - Amanita Virosa

Shitake(Lentinula edodes) fruiting on blocks - Amanita Virosa

Maitake(Grifola frondosa) mature fruits first 2 pics, Maitake primordia last 2 pics - Jeff

Oyster grows(Pleurotus ostreatus), pinning on straw, mature indoor fruits, and an oyster basket - RogerRabbit

Reishi(Ganoderma Luccidum) fruits on multiple substrates, A truly beautiful medicinal fungus - RogerRabbit

Shitake(Lentinula edodes) grows done right - RogerRabbit



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OfflineTmethylM
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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: hoobatech] * 3
    #17286147 - 11/26/12 05:45 PM (11 years, 2 months ago)

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General Information & FAQ

By: Notahacker420 and RogerRabbit


Light, Temperature, and Pinning Triggers...

Jars/bags/tubs/trays should colonize @ room temperature getting ambient/indirect light.

Main pinning triggers are full colonization, FAE and Evaporation off of the substrate.

Light is a secondary pinning trigger. For tropical species temperature is not a pinning factor.

P. Cubensis are a tropical species. You could colonize at 70F and fruit at 80F with great results.

Light has been proven beneficial during all stages of mycellium growth. Mushrooms like mammals have a circadian rhythm.

You want ambient/indirect light(on a 12/12 schedule preferably) for colonization and consolidation.

You want direct/intense 6500K light on a 12/12 schedule for fruiting.

Optimal temps are mid 70s throughout the whole grow, but anywhere from 70F-80F is acceptable.

Incubation is outdated/uneeded unless temps in the range stated above cannot be kept.

The inside of the jar is always a few degrees warmer than the outside because the mycellium produces heat..mycellium tends to stall at temps above 86F , and contams thrive.

Fruiting at cooler temps tends to produce denser, meatier fruits, while fruiting at higher temps will often produce hollow, less dense stems.

LCs From Spores...
LCs from spores are sketchy. No spore syringe/print is ever 100% clean.

This is because the cap from which the spores came was more than likely fruited in the open air.

You cannot know 100% if an LC is good or not by visual inspection.

Test jars must be shot up and grown out.

Conditions are not correct for germination of spores in sugar LCs, grain LCs or extra light malt extract based LCs are perfect for spore germination.

For best results, make LCs from a fully colonized grain jar(GLC) or from an agar wedge.

Or skip LC entirely and just G2G(Grain to Grain) transfers to expand your mycellium.

Proper SGFC

A proper SGFC should have 1/4"(6mm) holes spaced 2" apart in a grid pattern on all 6 sides(top and bottom) and filled with 5" of damp perlite.

The chamber must also be raised so that air can pass up thru the bottom holes, and wick up moisture from the water evaporating off the perlite, this will create a very humid environment inside the chamber.

A SGFC works off of the natural air currents in a room with no fans, mess with those currents and your humidity drops.

FAE

FAE = Fresh Air Exchange.

Lack of FAE leads to aerial mycellium, and mycellium crawling up the stems, or "fuzzy feet".

Bulging mycellium around the cake is sometimes an indicator that the cakes needed more time after full colonization for consolidation.

Heat and Potency

This info gets repeated daily...

The actives in muchrooms dont break down until FAR past 300F, while most dehydrators never make it past 165F.

I use my dehydrator that gets to 150F+ for 12 hours and I get completely dry fruits with no  potency loss.

Psilocybin & Psilocin Chemistry

Use Heat!

SHIT THAT GETS REPEATED DAILY

Please do not refer to spawning a bulk substrate as a casing. Coir/verm is bulk substrate material.

They used to refer to a bulk substrate as a casing, but now it just adds confusion. Its called a spawning to a bulk substrate, not casing.

A casing layer is a non nutritious top layer usually applied to a fully colonized bulk substrate for moisture retention and pinning. When you do this it is called casing, see where it can get confusing?

P.Cubensis do no benefit from a casing layer.(usually)

*CASINGS*

Quote:

RogerRabbit said:
One more thing:

You guys seriously need to stop referring to your substrate trays as 'casings'.  That is an incorrect term unless all you have is a casing layer and no manure, grains, or anything.  Nobody grows mushrooms on 'casings', period.

The casing layer is only the top layer on a colonized bulk substrate, nothing else.  'Casing' sure as hell isn't a name for a mushroom growing project.
RR




*METABOLITES / MYC PISS*

Quote:

RogerRabbit said:
Mycelium does not urinate, does not have a bladder, and there is no such thing as myc piss.  Why this horrible disinformation persists after we've known for over 50 years that these liquids are antibiotic and released in response to bacteria is beyond comprehension.
Next time you get sick, ask the doctor for a myc piss shot instead of antibiotics and see him look at you like you just bumped your head or fell off a turnip truck.
If your grains are infected, there will be metabolites.  If you've colonized at above normal room temperature, bacteria has been stimulated and thus the metabolites.
RR



Quote:

RogerRabbit said:
It's not even a waste product, and people who call it piss are ignorant.  The liquid is excreted to help break down the substrate, and in a different formulation is produced to fight contaminant molds and bacteria.  These are the products antibiotics are made of.



Quote:

RogerRabbit said:
Mycelium does not urinate, not is it infused with bacteria.  Metabolites are anti-bacterial in fact.  Mix it with water and use it on your plants.  It's an excellent fertilizer.
RR



Quote:

RogerRabbit said:
The mycelium secretes enzymes to help break down the substrate for digestion and also to help ward off competitors.  If you're using excessive temperature or have excessive contaminants, you'll have more of these secretions, which have nothing to do with urination.
RR



Quote:

RogerRabbit said:
These enzymes can be many colors, including red.
RR



Quote:

RogerRabbit said:
These enzymes are secreted to help break down substrate materials and also to help ward off competing organisms.
RR



Quote:

RogerRabbit said:
Also remember the pH will naturally swing towards acidic as the mycelium secretes enzymes to break down the substrate.  Use gypsum to help prevent it from going too low.
RR




*Overlay*

Quote:

RogerRabbit said:
Overlay is bullshit and most of it relates to a picture of a normal casing layer in TMC that is incorrectly labeled as overlay.

A few months ago, I 'jokingly' said I'd ban the next person who asked an overlay question and it worked . . .until now. :lol:

What happens is one person asks about overlay, and for the next six months, every new grower thinks he has overlay.

I can guarantee you don't have it, since I've only seen it a handful of times, and I've been known to have grown a few projects in my day.  Full colonization of the casing layer is not overlay.  Give lots of fresh air and light, while misting a few times daily and you'll fruit soon.
RR



http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/9467709#9467709

Quote:

RogerRabbit said:
I've seen overlay two or three times in 40 years, so I doubt seriously you are seeing it, especially on an uncased bulk substrate.  It's common for new growers to mistake full colonization for overlay.
RR



http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/17163830#17163830

Quote:

RogerRabbit said:
By definition, a bulk substrate can't get 'overlay'.




http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/15803177#15803177

Quote:

RogerRabbit said:
I can count on one hand the number of times I've seen overlay in 40 years.
RR



http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/13797279#13797279

Quote:

RogerRabbit said:
Uncased bulk substrates should be left alone and covered until 100% colonized.  Overlay is a vastly misunderstood phenomena which only affects species such as agaricus(button mushrooms) which require a casing layer.

Whatever you do don't deep scratch.  That's a failed method which was disproved 30 years ago.
RR



http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/13547569#13547569



>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Quote:

RogerRabbit said:
Adding verm to grains tends to help make up for sloppy preparation but leads to invitro pin formation in the jars.
RR





Mushroom Cultivation Abbreviations


50/50  = 50% vermiculite/50% peat moss
aq.    = aqueous (water based)
BRF    = Brown Rice Flour
CFL(s) = Compact Florescent Light bulb(s)
coir  = coco coir; coconut fiber; coconut "hair"
contam = contamination
DNR    = Dunk N' Roll
FAE    = Fresh Air Exchange
FC    = Fruiting Chamber
G2G    = Grain to Grain [transfer]
GB    = Glove Box
GE    = Gas Exchange
GH    = Green House
GLC    = Grain Liquid Culture
HEPA  = High Efficiency Particulate Arrestor
hpoo  = horse manure
inoc  = inoculate or inoculant
karo  = A brand of light corn syrup (dextrose)
LC    = Liquid Culture
LME    = Light Malt Extract
Martha = "Martha Stewart everyday stationary storage closet", a shelf inside a zippered plastic cover
MEA    = Malt Extract Agar
MS    = Multi-Spore
MT    = Mono Tub
myc    = mycelium
PC    = Pressure Cooker; sometimes used as shorthand for P. cubensis
PDA    = Potato Dextrose Agar
PF    = Psilocybe Fanaticus, author of the "PF Tek"
pin    = primordia, the beginning of a mushroom fruit body
PMP    = Poor Man's Pod
PSI    = Pounds per Square Inch
RH    = Relative Humidity
RR    = RogerRabbit
SAB    = Still-Air Box
SFD('s)= Synthetic Filter-Disks
SGFC  = Shot Gun Fruiting Chamber
SWIM  = Someone Who Isn't Me
tek    = technique
TiT    = Tub in Tub
TMC    = Paul Stamets' "The Mushroom Cultivator"
Trich. = Trichoderma
verm  = vermiculite
WBS    = Wild Bird Seed


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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: elkart]
    #17286364 - 11/26/12 06:14 PM (11 years, 2 months ago)

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Supplies & Materials


The SGFC, this is a model employing a saran wrapped lid, since it did not come with a transparent lid.
A proper SGFC should have 1/4"(6mm) holes spaced 2" apart in a grid pattern on all 6 sides(top and bottom) it is then filled with 5" of damp perlite. The chamber must also be raised so that air can pass up thru the bottom holes, and wick up moisture from the water evaporating off the perlite, this will create a very humid environment inside the chamber. An SGFC works off of the natural air currents in a room with no fans, mess with those currents and your humidity drops. NOTE: If your indoor humidity is less than 40%, the SGFC becomes quite troublesome to maintain, keep your indoor humidity as high as possible, use a cheap humidifier - Notahacker420

1) 1/2 pint very wide, not suitable for PF tek or anything other than Agar work, imo. 2) 1/2 Pint wide mouth, these are the optimal jars for PF tek/BRF cakes. 3) 1/2 pint tall widemouth, works for PF tek, but not optimal, will have longer colonization times. 4) 1 pint widemouth, not a good idea for PF tek, but can work for other special activities, such as grain spawns, or very big cakes. 5) 1 pint regular mouth, used for same reasons as #4. 6) 1 Quart jar, the preferred jar for any type of grain spawn, these also come in wide mouth  -  Tmethyl

Vermiculite, used for many teks in mushroom cultivation. This can be added up to 50% in almost every substrate. It is also used a filter layer in the PF tek, as well as being used as a main component to the substrate, a time-tested and very popular material to mycology. It also comes in a few different grades, large, medium, small, fine. The picture below is a small grade, and optimal for PF tek. Vermiculite has not only nutrients fungi love, but also provides a texture and other properties not yet fully understood that increase yields and pinsets.  Plant growers will tell you vermiculite has no nutrients(which they're also wrong about), but for fungi, vermiculite provides an excellent supplement - Tmethyl

Poly-fill, used in monotubs as a filter material, can also be used as a GE (gas exchange) filter for spawn jars. The same stuff thats in your teddy bears, and pillows. But do not use old polyfill, it's likely loaded with contaminants - Tmethyl

Wax Paper, used for wax paper casing - an unpublished unwritten tek created by RogerRabbit. Wax paper makes a great casing, by holding a pin inducing micro-climate just above the substrate, while still allowing light in. This is very important especially if you cannot provide an optimal fruiting environment in your fruiting chamber/monotub/Greenhouse. To apply it, cut off a piece roughly the size of your substrate, crumple it into a ball in your hands, uncrumple it, then blanket it on top of the substrate. Lift it to mist and fan as usual, and replace ever 2-3 days, or when it becomes soggy. This is best used on bulk substrates.
A new method of using wax paper which has proven a success: (for cakes)
To add wax paper to cakes which are not pinning very well, or taking to long to pin. Form a cup of wax paper by wrapping some wax paper around the jar that the cakes were colonized in. Place it over the cake, and lift it to mist and fan as normal.
Some things that are good to know about wax paper are the earlier into fruiting you apply it the better, the reason is contaminants in your air will be landing on the wax paper instead of the substrate. Wax paper can be using on trays, without a fruiting chamber. Just make a tray, apply wax paper, and keep replacing it, as the mushrooms mature, you'll have to use larger pieces of wax paper. No fruiting chamber necessary. Tmethyl

A typical monotub, the holes can be arranged in many different ways, but I've found that every arrangement works just fine. When in use, this tub will be filled with substrate and spawn up to just bellow the bottom holes. During the colonization period (after filling with spawn, and sub) you tape the holes shut, so nothing can get in or out. Once the substrate is fully colonized, you remove the tape, and lightly stuff the holes with polyfill, this is called 'inducing fruiting' NOTE: In arid, low humidity geographic regions, it may be best to stuff the polyfill a little tighter - Tmethyl

10ml/cc and 10ml/cc syringes, if you order a syringe from a vendor it will come in a 10-12ml/cc syringe - Tmethyl

Felt GE lids, just a piece of felt silicone glued over a 1/4" hole drilled into the lid. You can inoculate through the felt, as long as you cool off the needle in sterile water, or spray it with alcohol before jabbing the felt. But it is not recommended, and these are best used in G2G(Grain to Grain) transfers - Tmethyl

G2G felt GE lids, basically metal versions of the above ^ - Notahacker420

Self healing injection ports, used on lids for spawn jars. Comes in many shapes and sized. I prefer to use a blob of silicone as an injection port - Notahacker420

Magnetic stirrers, these are placed inside an LC prior to sterilization, and inoculation. Then the LC jars are sat atop a magnetic stirrer base, which magnetically spins this them at high speeds, keeping a beneficial vortex current inside the LC - Hoobatech

Inoculation loops, is a simple tool used mainly by microbiologists to retrieve an inoculum from a culture of microorganisms. The loop is used in the cultivation of microbes on plates by transferring inoculum for streaking. If you are using a metal loop, flame sterilize it until it is red. Allow it to cool. Do NOT wave it in the air to cool it faster, that increases contamination. If you are using disposable plastic pipettes, do not flame it. Do not touch the loop with you fingers or let it touch any nonsterile surface. This is an optional tool, used in agar work - Hoobatech

Parafilm, is a plastic paraffin film with a paper backing primarily used in laboratories. It is commonly used for sealing or protecting vessels (such as flasks, agar plates). It is ductile, malleable, waterproof, odorless, thermoplastic, semi-transparent and cohesive - Hoobatech

A scalpel, and replacement bladed, most commonly used to make agar transfers, in attempts to isolate a strain/monoculture. Isolate grows perform much better than multi spore grows - Hoobatech

Rye grains, many cultivators consider this the best grain type for making spawn jars. They hold high amounts of moisture and never stick together. They are very easy to prepare and highly nutritious to your mushrooms. You may also substitute Wheat grains in the place of Rye - Headacherelief

Rye grains, after being soaked in coffee/water and simmered, ready to load into PC - Headacherelief


Coco coir, one of the most popular bulk substrates in monotubs, and trays. You simply pasteurize it, place it in a monotub, then add your grain spawn, mix well, then add a layer of coir over the top, being sure to leave no exposed grains. NOTE: This brand of Coir is purchased from pet stores, and is the best kind. Some Brands come with Trichoderma spores in the coir, since Trich is very beneficial for plants. Avoid non-pet store brands - Hoobatech

Felt, used as a filter material on spawn jars, very cheap, and simple - Hoobatech

Face mask, you know what these are for. You can never take TOO many sterile precautions - Hoobatech

Pre-sterilized petri dishes, used in agar work - Hoobatech

Agar powder, comes in many forms, and can be purchased in organic food marts, Asian food marts, science supply, or fungiperfecti.com has my favorite agar (ready to use) mixture - Hoobatech

A laminar flowhood, these can be constructed at home, or bought online. This is a commercial version, they are used in agar work, G2G transfers, and many other mycological activities - Hoobatech

BRF - Brown rice flour, the main nutritional ingredient in BRF/PF cakes, keep this bag sealed very well, it has a tendency to attract many insects and parasites - Tmethyl

70% alcohol, this is the optimal sanitizing agent used in mushrooms cultivation, this also comes in 50% (too weak) and 91% (too strong) 70% is optimal because it has just the right amount of water and alcohol to allow cellular osmosis, thus killing contamination and sanitizing more effectively, use 70% - Tmethyl

Perlite, a very popular item in mushroom cultivation, it has many pits, craters and cavities on a macroscopic level, this gives it a massive surface area, making perlite one of the best materials for evaporation. It's used to humidify SGFC(shotgun fruiting chambers) among other things - Headacherelief(1) & Tmethyl(3)

Gypsum! Gypsum will definitely increase yields when added to horse manure, or ANY other substrate for that matter. Calcium and sulfur are both nutrients used in mushroom fruitbody formation.  In addition, gypsum prevents the wild swings in pH we often see as the mushroom mycelium colonizes a substrate. Use it at 5% to 10% by volume - Tmethyl

Horse manure, the picture below displays perfectly aged manure, it has been leeched in the field, and is ready to use. It will have only a slight earthy smell, if your manure spells of ammonia or smells fresh, it is not aged enough - Tmethyl

Wild bird seed (WBS), this form of grains are used for spawn, very popular, very effective, and very cheap. This stuff comes in so many different types and brands that I see posts of people trying to find the right kind on a daily basis. The below picture is the CORRECT MIXTURE - Tmethyl

Sterile swabs, these have many uses, but I use them to transfer spores from a print to a syringe or to a shotglass, then sucked up with syringe, etc - Tmethyl

Perhaps, the ultimate instant casing.
I've had multiple successful tests substituting the wax paper with bubble wrap (small or large bubbles, both work)
Bubbles face down, towards to substrate. Bubble wrap never needs replaced, can be sanitized with alcohol, and creates an optimal primorida inducing micro climate. The downside to bubble wrap is once it's cut to size, that piece is now devoted to that size substrate. - Tmethyl









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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: Tmethyl] * 1
    #17286429 - 11/26/12 06:23 PM (11 years, 2 months ago)

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Tips & Tricks

This, is in my opinion, Cubensis in an optimal environment, no fuzzy feet, means plenty of FAE, the color of the caps, length of the stems, width of stems represents sufficient lighting, and further supports good FAE, if there is a goal to aim for, your mushrooms looking like these should be it:
(These were grown in my GH, the cakes are 1pint)


Sniff it when you birth it

Smell your substrates, smell your spawns, smell your cakes. It should smell like a mushroom if colonized with mushroom mycelium, if it stinks or smells sweet, it's contaminated with bacteria and should be tossed. Please note that many edible and medicinal mushrooms smell different, and this tip is mainly aimed at Cubensis and Paneaolus.
If you're growing Cubensis or other 'active' species, do not tell anyone about your grow. When I say 'anyone' I mean not even your best friend, not your mother or any other family member, nobody needs to know. Don't even tell them you have some Cubensis. Tell them "I know a guy who has some".
Do not label your jars, syringes or any other items with the actual species of mushroom you're growing (If you're growing a psychoactive species)
Label the jars as "Agaricus" or "Ganoderma" or "Shitake". If you've received a pre-labled syringe from a vendor, remove the label, write on your own with a permanent marker - Tmethyl


Shit for noobs
https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/17186530
Use the "Advanced Search Function" to weed out all outdated/misinformation.
  - Notahacker420



Oh, tyvek sleeves for a SAB can be sterilized in a jar and reused indefinitely. Oats, not rye, oats. They are 10% the cost and have the same size and consistency as rye. I prep exactly like I would rye. Soak grains in weak coffee or hpoo tea not water, its the key trust me. - WillSolvem



If you've got a question to ask, take a good photo of the problem before asking - Guy1980



Use newspaper or a towel to dry your grains lay them flat out and wait till they are cold! This advice for me really was gold, as I seriously doubt I could get the moisture content right with simply shaking and tossing alone!
With Pf tek be aware that your needle might clog. Seriously there were many funerals in this corner of the world for many sadly missed cakes these last few weeks and I believe shooting like 3 or 5 times too much solution into the jars may well have been the cause! Possibly...
Dont pull air into your syringe easy noob mistake to make! Put needle inside a flame and then pull! When I started out I hadn't even considered this eventuality!
Pack pf substrate in loose, but also dont make your verm layer too deep, as even if you did make your substrate nice and loose that aint gonna help much if you've crammed it down under a great load of verm.
If your a noob then your probably best of making a proper filter for your PF jars, as I doubt very few people, like me will be able to resist spinning them around and inspecting them at least 5 times every hour. Better yet stick them in a box with a padlock and swallow the key!
Go with spore prints and not syringes! I bemoaned the fact that I couldn't get syringes, but making your own syringes will teach you everything you need to know about sterile technique and gives one a real sense of growing confidence after the first few times of clean knock ups. After that you wont be second guessing yourself so much and will have a nicer understanding of how there is at least a little room for error and sloppiness! Also will save money!
You dont necessarily have to shake all your myc up vigorously in order to open up new innoc points. I found even a light rolling and gentle shake around of a very small ball of myc served to open up new growth points in areas where they were badly needed!
Try to look for a shotgun chamber with a nice gluey looking plastic, hard to explain but for me I found the one I bought was pretty impossible to fuck up when drilling, as did many other cheaper boxes I practiced on before I began. The glassy plastic tends to crack. No idea if I'm making sense on this one, but suffice to say some plastic boxs are very drill friendly and some aint!
Measure your holes with a ruler, and follow the RR 2 inch specs. So many people come on here with SG's that look like some greedy mad woodpecker has had a go at them having obviously thought that the tek called simply for a big box full of holes!
When it comes to tyvek polly-fill, micro pore tape, SFD's, rubber injection ports, RTV silicon etc buy the whole lot, you will find many uses for all of that stuff and especially with things like the RTV and micro-pore... Oh and you will need a drill, I would never have thought before hand (drill and mycology?) but mine is now utterly indispensable!
And finally patience is the most difficult part of all! Best way to forget about a grow is to start a new one, and start worrying about that one! Worrying about the new one? Why start another and worry about that one! Course its a recipe for insanity, a severe lack of shelf space, and a grumbling missus but hey it works for me! - Wolf8312


After you shake up a syringe and the 'plug' is swapped for the needle, squirt out a bit of solution from the needle tip, THEN flame sterilize.  That little drop that gets exposed to the air = instant first jar contamination.  Something obvious yet overlooked - Ima


Add a touch of vinegar to PC water to make sure your jars don't get cloudy on the outside - zMan


If you're doing grain quart jars, don't forget to wipe the threads and the inside of the very top of the jar clean before you put the lid on before you PC... just like you would a pf jar... I think a lot of people forget to do this or don't think they need to.
tip #2- learn and build a fool proof lid design that you trust... and if you're using metal bands with tyvek... be sure you take a pliers and squeeze that inner band all the way flush so it doesn't cut through your tyvek.  like so..
- Fahtster



Patience....
Forstner bits for drilling lids...
Holesaws/spade bits for drilling monotub/SAB holes...
Also, this tip from my SAB tek about drilling holes:
1. Place your tote on it’s side where the armholes will be and drill forward, from the inside, to start the hole.
a. The holesaw will lock-up against the tote once the Arbor is all the way through and the edges hit the container.
b. Switch the drill to reverse, then SLOWLY, with a slight rocking motion, work your way through the tote.  DON’T force it! You’ll crack your tote, let the saw do the work.
i. I don’t remember who said to run it in reverse, or even if they were being serious, but it works way better than going forward.  I haven’t cracked a tote since using this method w/ the holesaw (see picture).
ii. If you’re doing this outside and it’s cold, you may want to warm up the tote w/ a hair drier for a few seconds.  This will reduce the brittleness of the tote where you’re drilling. - TrancendingLife



Watch it, buy it. http://www.mushroomvideos.com/ - Twistedty


Make a template before you drill your shotgun.
- Khii Kwaay


Use the short 1/2 pint jars, not the tall ones - mjmihalov


Don't try to save contaminated jars.
Take things in steps; i.e. don't jump straight to bulk.
Learn to share your excitement here and not with your friends/family, it could keep you out of trouble.
Mark your jars with symbols or dots instead of names, that way if someone accidentally sees them they won't scream Ps. Cubensis Golden Teacher (or whatever). Allowing you to simply play them off as edibles.
Keep a journel, that way you can track what does and doesn't work.
This one is more about the forums and how to help keep your post from being skipped over, but I felt like it would be helpful for noobs none the less.
Break up your thoughts, and don't talk like some high school girl texting her "BFF" -  Wire5


Vermiculite and pearlite are both important, although they are not interchangeable.
Vermiculite - is used to help keep moister in substrate, and to help keep your substrate from becoming too dense.
Pearlite - is used to keep humidity in you FC, or even better your properly built SGFC. It doesn't work correctly in left submerged in water - Iwannbemro



Don't get so stoned that you fuck shit up!
But seriously,
Here are some:
Don't cut corners.
Spray the air with a fine bleach/water solution before doing sterile work
Make more spawn than you need.
Buy a mycology book
Become obsessed - Oeric McKenna



The #1 tip I can possibly give to a noob is to leave your stuff the fuck alone.
Think of it like a cat. It wants attention when it wants attention. It'll usually accept more (up to a point) when it doesn't really want it, but it won't like you as much. And there are a few things you can do to just completely make it hate you with no chance of reconciliation.
Bottom line - do it right the first time and then let it do its' thing. If it doesn't look right, throw it out, think about your procedure some more and start again. The same goes for mushrooms. :stoned: - 36fuckin5


BAG FRUITING INFORMATION:

1.        Basics:  REMEMBER.  The bag contains  a living organism.  It will die if you neglect it.  Fungi need moisture, light and fresh air.  Light quality is important and most commonly overlooked;  natural light thru a window is best, indirect but bright.  Other sources include florescent or LED light.  The brighter the better.  High humidity is essensial for pin formation and development.  We provide you with a piece of woven fabric called reemay which should be moistened and  draped over your open mushroom bag at all times.  Keep the reemay misted with a fine mist sprayer or soak it in water three or four times a day minimum.  Fresh air allows for normal development of most mushrooms.  By cutting the bag open, you are providing the spawn  plenty of fresh air to grow.

2.      Storing your bag:Store your bag at room temperature until you are ready to open it.  If you want to keep your bag in storage for long periods, refrigeration is best.  In general, the warmer it is the faster development occurs.

3.      Cutting open the bag:  When the bag is fully colonized, (completely covered in fungus), it will begin to form primordia or “pins” which are essencially baby mushrooms.  At this point, either refrigerate the bag or cut it open.  Keep your block somewhere that you frequent often, like the kitchen  You can set the bag on a dinner plate or in a shallow tupper ware.  Remember it needs light.    Fruiting temperatures between 50 and 75 are ideal for most species.  Depending on temp and humidity, outside might be better than inside.  For instance if it is cool and misty or rainy, stick the block outside on covered porch or window sill.  If it is hot and sunny or below freezing, bring it in.  The higher the humidity the better.  Once you cut the bag open, no turning back!!  Follow the directions for each species below.

a.        Reishi-  several options.  In high co2, the reishi will form “antlers” right in the closed bag.  These antlers are considered highly medicinal and are quite valuable.  You can let the antler form grow in the bag as long as you like.  When you do cut the bag open and fresh air enters, the form will change to the typical shelf fungus form. Cut the very top of the bag off, fold the edge and clothspin or chip clip it closed to conserve moisture.  Reishi can also be fruited out of the side of the bag by making several small slits along the side wall of the bag.

b.      Shiitake-IMPORTANT!  Shiitake must “brown” and “bark” INSIDE the bag!  Do not open the bag until it is entirely brown.  In addition the surface of the block will take on a roughened texture, called “popcorning” or “barking”.  This process can take up to three months from spawning date!  Once this has occurred, spank the bag!  Give it ten good spanks with your hand.  NO JOKE!  This triggers fruiting!  Next, cut off the entire bag and wrap with reemay.  KEEP MISTED and get ready.  Shiitake fruits madly.

c.      King Oyster, Beech and Enoki:  These benefit from high co2 levels.  Once pinning occurs, cut the very top to the bag off, fold the edge down and clip it with a cloths pin or chip clip.  Unclip as the mushrooms approach the top of the bag.

d.      All other oysters, including Elm:  Require a lot of fresh air and bright light to produce normal fruits.  If the pins form mostly at the top of the bag, you can cut the bag off right at the level of the pins,  (no bag wall).  If the pins for all over the block, you can cut the entire bag off and wrap the block in reemay. KEEP IT MOIST!  Oysters love water.

e.      Lions Mane:  Can be top fruited.  Cut bag top off, leaving about 2 inches of bag wall intact.  Drape reemay over the  top.  Or even better, make two 1 inch slits anywhere along the bag where thick white fungus is  prominent and the fruits will grow out of the slits.  It’s a site to see!  Be sure to drape the reemay over the bag so it keeps the developing fruits moist.  But watch out for the fruits growing THRU the reemay.

5.        Harvesting:  Cut the fruits off with a sharp knife right where they come off the block.  DO NOT CUT INTO THE BLOCK!  COOK until Golden brown!!  You derive little to no nutritional or medicinal value from fungi unless they are thoroughly cooked.  AND THEY TASTE BETTER!!  30-40  minutes on medium heat is reasonable.

6.      Second flush:  Let the block rest for up to a week, then immerse it in tap water for 24hrs  to trigger a second flush of mushrooms.  Exception is Lions Mane, which will fruit again out of the same holes.  Take the entire bag off at this point.  Wrap in reemay!  Keep moist.  Look for new primordia.

7.      Eventually, your block will contaminate.  This is normal, usually after the first or second flush.  You might observe green or black mold, similar to what you would see on cheese or bread, growing on the surface of the block.  At this point, put your block outside if it is above freezing and it will typically fruit another time or two.  If it is winter time, put the block in a black plastic garbage bag and store in your basement or garage till spring.  Then soak it and stick it outside.  DON’T GIVE UP ON YOUR BLOCK!  We have had blue oyster blocks fruit a dozen or more times, each flush slightly smaller than the last. - Amanita Virosa

Sick of spraining your wrist opening stuckjar rings? Flip the jar upside down and tap on the table at all around the ring. This will allow you to easily open.
:peace: - Galactic_Smurf































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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: timsmith777]
    #17286562 - 11/26/12 06:47 PM (11 years, 2 months ago)

It has only begun my friends. The best is yet to come.


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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: c0ri]
    #17297719 - 11/28/12 02:56 PM (11 years, 2 months ago)

If nobody contributes some normal typical growth patterns of MS inoculation I'll have to activate phase II.. forceful contribution. This is where I scout key threads and steal peoples pics and post them here. With credits of course. Threads with names like "I see growth" or " my spores germinated!" Will be targeted.

You make a valid case C0ri this will be cleared up tonight.

Further suggestions welcomed and embraced this is a community effort.


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OfflineTmethylM
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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: twistedty]
    #17297789 - 11/28/12 03:10 PM (11 years, 2 months ago)

Epic shots Exiled I'll put them together when I get home. Fully appreciate your time.


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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: c0ri]
    #17299882 - 11/28/12 08:29 PM (11 years, 2 months ago)

Alright time to fix some stuff up. I took a few shots to add as well:

Paneaolus Cyanescens pins:


Glow in the dark mushroom mycelium (Omphalotus nidiformis):


Edible Enoki mycelium (Flammulina velutipes) looks very cobweb-like but thats normal:


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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: Tmethyl]
    #17300220 - 11/28/12 09:18 PM (11 years, 2 months ago)

Yeast Contamination on agar:


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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: Pastywhyte]
    #17300386 - 11/28/12 09:51 PM (11 years, 2 months ago)

Thank you Pastywhyte, added.


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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: kmIL]
    #17305966 - 11/29/12 09:56 PM (11 years, 1 month ago)

Great sets there Kmil!

We are needing more shots of "basic" brf jars colonizing, and other normal everyday stuff.

Also need more shots of contams of all types, and I especially want more shots of your fucked up fruiting chambers, or mistakes you've made. Another great way for new people to learn is to see YOUR mistakes. Don't be shy!


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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: FrankHorrigan]
    #17307882 - 11/30/12 09:09 AM (11 years, 1 month ago)

That's going to help a lot Frank. Its very important to know what trich looks like before it turns green. Because by then its already too late.


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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: FrankHorrigan]
    #17307962 - 11/30/12 09:38 AM (11 years, 1 month ago)

Lmao that second shot of PE mono is ridiculous.
You seldom see shots worth such admiration.


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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: Nature Boy]
    #17317694 - 12/01/12 10:04 PM (11 years, 1 month ago)

1slowtv, I definitely can use a few of those pics, but can you upload them through this website so I can use them?

Here is where you upload, then paste links again:

https://www.shroomery.org/forums/upload.php

I am a bit behind been working 13+ hours a day, I'll be able to get caught up tonight or tomorrow night. I'll be at Seaworld the majority of tomorrow though -.-


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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: ImFukNCLUELESS]
    #17331098 - 12/04/12 05:57 AM (11 years, 1 month ago)

In the OP I added an index and will begin to organize all the shots into easy to find categories. Please take a look at the index and tell me if you have any suggestions for it. Such as add new subjects remove subjects, whatever.

Once this part is done we will be able to see where we are lacking and where we have an abundance.


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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: FrankHorrigan]
    #17345407 - 12/06/12 04:27 PM (11 years, 1 month ago)

Time to fix this thing up, going to work on it tonight.



















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Edited by Tmethyl (12/06/12 04:37 PM)


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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: elkart]
    #17345912 - 12/06/12 06:02 PM (11 years, 1 month ago)

They were just for getting the front page organized, I thought they looked corny and simple anyways.

incoming.


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