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OfflineJaguarWarrior101
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Registered: 03/23/05
Posts: 184
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Re: The secret to growing syrian rue from seed [Re: neuro]
    #4464611 - 07/28/05 01:10 PM (18 years, 6 months ago)

I had all my rue indoor seedlings die like you explained early in the spring, then in the summer I reused the soil to plant calea, and I ended up getting 20+ healthy syrian rue plants! I've had them a few months now and they are doing quite well, they seemed to germinate and stay alive better outdoors. I think they may need to be planted deeper in the soil, which me mixing up the soil in a big pot would have done. When these ones sprouted they weren't so tall out of the soil as the first ones, I think they need the support of the soil to get established.


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The above post is purely hypothetical, and should not be considered the true thoughts, opinions, or actions of a real life person.

We perceive. This is hard fact. But what we perceive is not a fact of the same kind, because we learn what to perceive.
~Carlos Castaneda


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OfflineAraki-ryu
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Registered: 01/05/13
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Last seen: 9 years, 8 months
Re: The secret to growing syrian rue from seed *DELETED* [Re: neuro]
    #17501077 - 01/05/13 09:51 AM (11 years, 1 month ago)

Post deleted by naum

Reason for deletion: Welcome to the EG. Please do not bump very old threads especially ones where OP is no longer active. Feel free to post a new thread. I'll try to move these posts to your journal if I can so you still have a copy of them. Thanks, naum



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OfflineAraki-ryu
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Registered: 01/05/13
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Re: The secret to growing syrian rue from seed [Re: Araki-ryu]
    #17542718 - 01/13/13 02:33 PM (11 years, 1 month ago)

To understand the plant and how to grow you must know where it grows, what soil, and the climate.

From Wiki “It is a perennial plant which can grow to about 0.8 m tall, but normally it is about 0.3 m tall. The roots of the plant can reach a depth of up to 6.1 m (18 feet), if the soil where it is growing is very dry. It blossoms between June and August in the Northern Hemisphere. The flowers are white and are about 2.5–3.8 cm in diameter.

Peganum harmala was first planted in the United States in 1928 in New Mexico. Since then, it has spread invasively to Arizona, California, Montana, Nevada, Oregon, Texas and Washington. "Because it is so drought tolerant, African rue can displace the native saltbushes and grasses growing in the salt-desert shrub lands of the Western U.S."

I have grown Syrian rue successfully and it sounds like most people are having trouble with damping-off disease. This is caused by a variety of root fungus.  Syrian rue is a dryland plant. Like many dryland plants it thrives on neglect.  Most people literally love their plants to death.  If you’ve ever been to central Washington or Oregon you know it’s all high desert like Turkey. There’s more antelope and jack rabbits then people, and they grow dry land plants, like grapes, wheat, onions, and more antelopes and jack rabbits.  Its bone dry and blistering hot in the summer, cold, really cold, in the winter, the wind blows eternal.  The same goes for the other states Syrian rue grows feral in. 

So if you live in place that mimics these conditions I’d put some seed in a pot and put it outdoors and let Mother Nature do the work for you.  If you have a covered outdoor area put a pot there.
 
Also, most potting soils are too heavy with peat and other water retaining substances.  Use sand, gravel, and charcoal to help aerate the soil and drain in.  Don’t be afraid to use fungicides (that may be blasphemy on a site dedicated to growing mushroom) and remember the #1 rule of horticulture & agriculture, you can never have too much air circulation. Fungus loves still, stagnate; air; if in doubt increase air flow.  Most plants are better a little drier rather than too wet.  Remember, “Cold and wet will kill for sure, warn and wet is okay.”
Hope this helps.


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OfflineHappy Days
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Registered: 10/20/13
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Re: The secret to growing syrian rue from seed [Re: Araki-ryu]
    #19135132 - 11/14/13 08:31 AM (10 years, 3 months ago)

Since Peganum Harmala has 6 meter deep roots in its natural environment (source: Wikipedia) I planted it in the largest pot I could find, and only watered it from the bottom, in an attempt to simulate its original desert habitat, and it seemed to work, even though I'm situated at 58� North.


(Aug. 1st, 2013)

I found that putting a 'glass dome' on top of the Peganum Harmala plant hindered it from withering away so easy, like a small greenhouse.


(Aug. 15th, 2013)

I made sure that the 'dome' had air-ventilation-gaps at the bottom and covered the soil with aluminium for optimal sun-reflection and to avoid flies etc.


(Aug. 20th, 2013)

When the plant grew out of its small 'glass dome' I replaced it with a bigger one, keeping gaps for air-ventilation at the bottom.


(Sep. 22nd, 2013)

When winter approached I moved the plant indoors, which it didn't like, and it started to whither (turning yellow).


(Oct. 13th, 2013)

When the plant had outgrown the biggest 'glass dome' I could find, I removed it.


(Oct. 13th, 2013)

But after 2 hours without the 'glass dome' my living-room started to smell strange, and when I checked the plant it had whithered heavily away and was starting to dry out fast. I squeezed the 'dome' back over the plant, but it was too late, the withering-process was already started and the only thing I achieved was the start of mold-development 2 days later, hence I removed the 'dome' again and let it continue whithering away / dry up.


(Oct. 17th, 2013)

After it had whithered away, and only the dried stalks/stems remained as a skeleton (of branches), it actually started to sprout again, and new shots came out of both the dry stalks/stems and from the soil by its root. I cut away some of the dried up hard branches/stalks, which I should not have done, as the new fresh green stalks/branches actually used this branch-skeleton to climb higher and stay upright, so when I cut the dry parts away the branches just fell limp towards the ground/soil.


(Nov. 14th, 2013)

In short, I found it favourable to use a 'glass-dome' (small greenhouse-effect) over the plant, and learned to not cut away the dry branches when it whithers away, because although Peganum Harmala looks like it's dying, it usually just re-starts, and then it needs something to hold on to while climbing, like a skeleton of dried out branches:)


Edited by Happy Days (11/14/13 08:54 AM)


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OfflineTheHerbalColorado
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Registered: 10/21/13
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Re: The secret to growing syrian rue from seed [Re: Happy Days]
    #19136430 - 11/14/13 02:40 PM (10 years, 3 months ago)

Great info, it;s great to have a starting point for learning how best to grow this plant. I wonder why it requires a desert like substrate while it needs the humidity on its shoots? Strange, but it begs for more research.


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If you get to old to cut the mustard, lick the jar.


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OfflineShromopompa
Stranger and stranger
Registered: 03/05/14
Posts: 3
Last seen: 7 years, 28 days
Re: The secret to growing syrian rue from seed [Re: TheHerbalColorado]
    #19676784 - 03/10/14 04:06 PM (9 years, 11 months ago)

What I found about Salvia Divinorum cultivation might be an answer to the Syrian Rue whithering that happened here. As far as my friend knows, the same is with Peyote cactus.

The trick to growing S. divinorum in a non-humidity-controlled environment is careful "hardening off". Growing S. divinorum in a humidity-controlled environment makes the plants "soft" and less able to cope with environmental changes, but if you help them adjust they are able to do so. Never remove a S. divinorum plant from a humidity-controlled environment and leave it out in the open air all at once. You must incrementally give the plant more and more exposure to dry air, wind, and sunlight. The best technique is the following. Water your plant thoroughly, remove it from the humidity tent, and set it in a shady, wind-protected spot. Give the plant a hand misting. Set a timer to alert you when one hour has passed. When the timer rings, return the plant to its controlled environment. Each day, remove the plant for an additional hour, so that by the end of two weeks it is spending all day outdoors. Pay attention to how the sun moves to ensure that a plant placed in morning shade does not receive direct afternoon sunlight. Once the plant is acclimated, it should be given a permanent home in a wind protected location that receives filtered sunlight. Consider installing a drip watering system with misting nozzles for ease of care.

source: http://www.erowid.org/archive/rhodium/chemistry/salvia.divinorum.growers.guide.html

I hope this will help.


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You don't pass or fail at being a person, dear.


Edited by Shromopompa (03/10/14 04:07 PM)


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InvisibleGreenFingers
Exotic collector
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Registered: 02/01/14
Posts: 292
Re: The secret to growing syrian rue from seed [Re: Shromopompa]
    #19686244 - 03/12/14 03:11 PM (9 years, 11 months ago)

I'd agree with shromopompa, I grew them last year and decided they weren't "worth" growing again. I had high germination rates but plenty that liked to spontaneously die as seedlings. They do like root space, I did notice they consolidated their pots pretty easily/rapidly with not much showing for it on the top. Once I had a few that didn't die off right away I put little clear cups over the top with ventilation holes. I occasionally misted and slowly exposed them to more air. Soon enough they were just fine indoors then shortly after they were outside. They had no problems all summer here in socal with a few weeks up high 90F+ heat and dry air to go with it.


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Offlinesauroman1
Emrys

Registered: 03/22/14
Posts: 206
Loc: Shangrila
Last seen: 1 day, 12 hours
Re: The secret to growing syrian rue from seed [Re: neuro]
    #22761997 - 01/10/16 02:23 PM (8 years, 1 month ago)

How many days after exposing to moisture seeds start showing signs of germination?


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"You come from realms of unimaginable power and light, and you will return to those realms.” ― Terence McKenna


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