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Offlinedeathw
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Pennington Lime and Pickling Lime
    #9769714 - 02/09/09 11:32 PM (15 years, 3 months ago)

I have both of these limes.  The Pennington Lime seems more like very very little rocks or pebbles, only felt through the bag. An the Pickling Lime as I found out is Hydrated Lime and complete powder.

I dont know if I can even use the pennington lime or if the pickling lime is usable. I have crushed oyster shells, 2 different brands also. Could it be used insted of the lime?

I included pictures of the limes below. Please I need input on what one to use for my casing layer as I need to case ASAP.

if you need more pictures or anything else please ask.











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OfflineThe shroomy 1
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Re: Pennington Lime and Pickling Lime [Re: deathw]
    #9770044 - 02/10/09 12:44 AM (15 years, 3 months ago)

https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6895037#6895037

Hope this helps!  I use the same powdered lime by the way....;)


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Offlinedeathw
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Re: Pennington Lime and Pickling Lime [Re: The shroomy 1] * 1
    #9770507 - 02/10/09 05:19 AM (15 years, 3 months ago)

Do you use the powder lime in the same ratio as RRs casing tek calls for hydrated?


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OfflinePsykosisXochipilli
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Re: Pennington Lime and Pickling Lime [Re: deathw]
    #16506277 - 07/09/12 09:15 PM (11 years, 10 months ago)

So DID YOU use the pennington fast acting lime. and what were the results ?

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Re: Pennington Lime and Pickling Lime [Re: PsykosisXochipilli]
    #16568610 - 07/22/12 02:20 PM (11 years, 10 months ago)

Although both are sometimes referred to as lime, those two are completely different chemicals.  The Pennington lime is calcium carbonate.  Calcium carbonate cannot raise the pH of a casing beyond about 8 no matter how much you use.  Calcium carbonate is gentle but it is also slow to react unless the grade is very fine with a flour-like consistency.  The amount you must use--you can safely use extra--really depends on how fine it is and how long you are willing to wait for the pH to raise.  Depending on the fineness of the grate, 1 part of 4 to 8 parts peat moss works pretty well for me.

Pickling lime is calcium hydroxide, which upon exposure to carbon dioxide in the atmosphere, slowly reacts to form calcium carbonate.  Its pH effect on the casing is nearly instantaneous and can easily raise the pH above 11, a level that will definitely harm mycelium and pretty much guarantee failure to achieve a decent yield even if everything else is right.  Its effect is quick but not very long lasting as it reacts with the air to form calcium carbonate.  As such it is not a replacement for calcium carbonate, just a potential amendment.  In addition to calcium carbonate, which serves as a pH anchor, I use about 1 part in 100 parts peat moss to quickly move the initial casing pH to 7.2 to 7.8 and confirm this level with a pH probe.  Without a pH probe, you are better off either using very little calcium hydroxide or eliminating it entirely in favor of the calcium carbonate.

My preferred casing mixture for cubensis is

1 part peat moss
1 part vermiculite
1/10th part (or so) aragonite (optional)
1/8th part calcium carbonate flour (agricultural lime) - double this if you have the corn meal consistency stuff
1/100th part calcium hydroxide (pickling lime)

I mix it up well and over-saturate it since the heat will allow it to take in more water.  I put it in the pressure cooker, bring the thing up to full pressure, cook for a few minutes, and allow it to cool.  I am sure this technique practically sterilizes the casing, which is bad if you are growing edibles, but cubes are very fast and don't require an active micro biome in the casing.

PS - I do not recommend coco coir for cubensis.  Unlike Pan Cyans, cubes can apparently digest coco coir with ease so that using it as a major casing component leads to overlay.  Even mid-casing-run deep scratching doesn't stop the overlay from reforming, either (and if you scratch much later than that, you risk ruining the pinset).  Coco coir basically ruins the benefits of a casing by turning the whole thing into a cake.

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