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OfflineProject
Ride the Spiral


Registered: 06/02/09
Posts: 1,429
Last seen: 8 years, 5 months
Guide
    #16510520 - 07/10/12 06:35 PM (8 years, 11 months ago)

(For the time being I had to make this thread so I can refer people to it in the future.  Eventually I'll delete this disclaimer once the thread sinks to the bottom of the pile and just link it in my signature.  Thanks)


Often times I refer people to check out the various walkthroughs and teks linked in my signature if I feel it may enhance their efforts.  But for people who are completely new or have never done any kind of bulk grow before, they still end up having questions, and reasonably so.  Everything is generally centered around how I would go about doing it and this is simply an attempt to tie in all of those guides in to one general course of action.  This is primarily centered around how I would go about doing it but there are points where you can insert another tek if one that I have doesn’t suit you.  For example, depending on what type of bulk substrate you’d want to use, you just throw that specific tek (in place of what I’d do) in at that stage of the grow project.  Because long as it’s a good bulk tek you’re using, you can pretty much take your pick.  Spawning to bulk is pretty damn easy; just as easy as PF tek, just a couple more steps with strikingly better harvests.  The following is all of the teks in my signature walked through step by step with some added detail on how I would go about doing it.  So you can do it just as I do it and have very high success rates or you can even swap different teks out.  It’s all about understanding the principles of what you’re doing, rather than simply following a list.  Once you better understand the fundamentals, everything else starts falling into place and cultivation gets much simpler, yet more exciting. 

-  If you’re starting from scratch, the first thing you need to do is order some spore syringes.  Check out the different sponsors found on the Shroomery. 

-  While you’re waiting for your spores to arrive, go ahead and buy all of the supplies you need to make your jar lids.  One thing I will add to this tek is that you don’t have to have the super heat resistant silicone; regular silicone used for the average bathroom or kitchen project are fine (check on the back of the bottle, it’ll tell you what it’s service temperature is, which is usually way, way hotter than you need to worry about).

-  Once your spores arrive you simply follow the WBS tek.  If you’d prefer to use rye, simply go find yourself a rye tek (insert rey tek here).  The one thing to make sure you get right is moisture content.  This means allowing your seed to drain long enough so that it’s not too wet but not so long as to leave it dry.  People generally recommend having most all of the moisture content inside the seed, not the outside, but a lot of times I’ve prepared WBS jars that at first look a little on the moist side after pressure cooking, but after a couple days that moisture gets reabsorbed.  But you don’t want any water pooling in the bottom of your jars.  In this WBS tek he recommends letting it drain for at least 30 minutes, but I find I usually have to wait much longer than this; sometimes over an hour before I see the grain is ready to be jarred.  When you soak the seed you’ll see that it noticeably swells, meaning it’s holding onto more water.  So letting the seed drain in the open air for upwards of an hour or more really isn’t that big of a deal because the seed isn’t going to loose so much of that internal moisture (important) as to cause any problems.  Before you put the seed into your jars, thy throwing some down on a paper towel.  If it just leaves a faint amount of residual moisture, it’s fine to go ahead.  If it’s still dripping wet it obviously needs to be drained longer.  Takes a little bit of experimenting to get it right but just knowing this you shouldn’t have any problems if this is your first try at it.  One more thing I’ll just say, for better or worse, is that it’s better to stray towards the dry side than the overly wet side when you’re filling up your jars to be pressure cooked.  Too dry is bad, but I doubt any of you are going to leave it sitting out for any longer than 80 minutes anyway.  Most people make the mistake of putting grain that’s too wet into their jars.   

-  While you’re allowing your jars to colonize in indirect lighting conditions, go ahead and build your monotub (just build the tub to have it ready).  I prefer the smaller ones, per the tek in my signature, but you can pick any monotub tek and go ahead and build one or however many you’re doing.  This is also a good time to already know how your grow area is going to look.  If you’re using a CFL bulb (daylight spectrum, 6500K color temp.), pretty much all you need is a decently well circulated room that’s around room temperature (aiming for 74-77F would ideal).  Don’t use a closet because you don’t want stagnant air, rather you’d want gentle circulation.  Not a fan blowing right on your fruiting chamber either, which could dry the substrate out.  At it’s simplest form a cubensis grow area might look like this:  a table of some sorts with a fruiting chamber (monotub) resting on it and a CFL bulb mounted vertically to the grow.  That’s it.  You’d want it up off the floor, hence the table, though I suppose you could get away with leaving them right on the floor if you had to.  Just understand the principles of what you’re doing and it’s pretty simple.

-  Once your WBS jars are finished colonizing, you’ll have your tub(s) ready so all you need now is your bulk substrate.  ((At this point you can pretty much insert any bulk substrate tek.  Some recipes call for you to use a designated amount of spawn.  I do not like to do this.  I prefer just preparing a certain amount of bulk and then deciding how many jars of spawn I want to use.  I leave this up to you.)).  I prefer horse manure just because it’s easy to find, free and very effective.  If you want to use horse manure, follow Roadkill‘s tek in my signature just as he explains except instead of spawning into trays, you simply spawn into your tub…  Note:  I like to heat the pot of water up until it’s already at a temperature range of 160-175.  These are pasteurization temperatures which will bring down the microbial content of the manure somewhat (essentially to a level where nothing present will cause any problems for the soon-to-move-in mycelium). Once the temperature holds steady, I put the tied pillow case of poo into the pot of water, then something to hold it down and keep it submerged.  I usually let it stay like that for 60-70 minutes (or 40 minutes for smaller batches) and I’ve never had a contamination problem due to improper bulk preparation.  I know Roadkill used to like to pasteurize entire nuggets, THEN shred them up as he spawned.  What I do is simply take the dried up poo I found in a field and shred it up into smaller chunks (imagine the average sized nugget of horse poo shredded into about 4-5ish pieces, though sometimes parts will just crumble apart) and pasteurize it, so I guess both ways would work.  You definitely don’t want it too finely shredded because it would be too runny.  Also, you want it to be somewhat airy, hence the shredding into small chunks (not tiny bits).  Just so you know, the poo is not going to get runny or smelly when you pasteurize it in the water.  In fact, it essentially looks like a hydrated, darker version of what you’d shredded up in the first place.  It will smell of dirt. 

When you’re ready to use the pillow case-o-poo, simply untie it or cut it open and, using a clean, gloved hand, grab it and put it into your tub, periodically adding your crumbled up WBS spawn (you can layer it or mix it up, both work, you don’t have to case it).  I’m assuming your work area (kitchen counter, or whatever you’re using) is clean and already prepped for use.  It’s best to always follow clean procedure, but you still don‘t have to overdo it as some often do.  I’d simply thrown in a few handfuls of manure, then a jar of my spawn (may use a long, clean spoon for helping scoop out grain), and mix it up and crumble the larger chunks of spawn with my gloved hand, and keep doing until I‘ve used however many jars of spawn I‘m using and I‘ve gotten my substrate to the depth I want.  I’ve never had problems.  One thing to make sure to do is have the very top layer mostly poo.  You don’t want a lot of grain showing.  It’s okay if everything under this top layer is all mixed up, but the top layer should be a somewhat thin layer of mostly bulk substrate.  The monotub tek in my signature goes into detail.

If you can get horse manure, I strongly recommend trying it.  You can even mess around with adding different ingredients, such as straw or even some coir/verm, or really make up your own bulk recipe…  Of course you can simply use 100% prepared horse manure and have lots of success.  Seems like 100% horse manure works better in smaller fruiting chambers (small tubs and trays) versus the larger ones, where you may want something added for extra moisture retention.  But this is just my experience.  But this is why I like using the smaller monotubs, because it’s very easy to control moisture content.


…  And that’s pretty much it.  You just allow your monotub to colonize and after it’s 100% colonized across the top, let it sit and consolidate for an additional 3-5 days or until you see the first pins popping up.  It’s beneficial to have your tubs sitting so they’re getting some indirect light, but you don’t want to put them on a lighting cycle during colonization.  Once it’s ready, you simply fruit the thing.  I think it’s good practice to manually mist/fan monotubs.  If you need more information on misting and fanning, believe me, there are tons of threads out there (average a few every week haha).

The G2G an GLC teks in my signature are good to read if you want to propagate your grows.  I recommend saving at least one or two jars from your first batch of jars to use for G2G.  This way you could take 2 pints/quarts and turn them into 20 pints/quarts for your second project.  G2G is the way to go if you don’t want to keep ordering spore syringes and want to have spawn faster.  After all of this, the next logical step is creating an isolate if you want monster flushes, but I’ll leave that up to you to research…


:raveface:   


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Edited by Project (07/10/12 06:57 PM)


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