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OfflineLiquidSmoke
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Dinner at Le Chateaubriand in Paris
    #14881046 - 08/06/11 12:50 PM (12 years, 5 months ago)

Been wanting to try this place for a while.  Head chef is Inaki Aizpitarte.





The Bar.  The restaurant's pretty small, basically a front dining room with bar, and a sall hallway off to the side with a couple tables.  Probably has a capacity for nothing more than 40 people or so.





Just a few pics into the kitchen...it's a small kitchen but those guys were working a furious pace!




The guy on the right with the beard is Inaki Aizpitarte.  THE MASTERMIND!!!!







Full menu for the evening.  I dont understand French but I could guess alot of the items.  Fortunately some of the servers and chefs spoke English.


Amuse #1: 
The meal started off with a leche de tigre, the broth of ceviche made with cucumbers and christalmarin seaweed.







Amuse #2:
Blanched baby carrots, fresh raw almonds, a shaving of radish, and a pigeon jus poured over all of it.







Crudo course:
Raw tuna dressed with shizo, topped with heirloom tomato tar tar.







Soup:
Basically a fish soup with blanched poppy flowers and escargot in it.










Lightly roasted veal cheaks, champignone mushrooms, on a bed of horseradish cream, topped with sorrel leafs, shaved goat cheese, and black truffle.

 







Monkfish fillet smoked in hay, topped with trout eggs, bottarga, and young purslane sprouts.  Probably one of my favorite dishes.



Picture's kind of blurry, but the fish was absolutely glissening inside.









Roasted beef tenderloin, anchovys, on a bed of miso paste, topped with amaranth and onions.









Cheese plate, basically a tripple cream cheese, blue cheese, goat cheese from the Basque countryside, topped with a light shaving of white truffle.









Desert #1:
Gelatinous watermelon flesh, cranberries, basil parsley spongue, groseille and pasteque.









Desert #2:
Carmelized apricot inside of a very light honey almond custard with almond froth.











End of meal breath freshner:
Peach wedges sprinkled with mukhwaas



--------------------
"Shmokin' weed, Shmokin' wizz, doin' coke, drinkin' beers.  Drinkin' beers beers beers, rollin' fatties, smokin' blunts.  Who smokes tha blunts?  We smoke the blunts" - Jay and Silent Bob strike Back


Edited by LiquidSmoke (08/06/11 05:31 PM)


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Invisiblegreys
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Re: Dinner at Le Chateaubriand in Paris [Re: LiquidSmoke]
    #14881238 - 08/06/11 01:53 PM (12 years, 5 months ago)

First three presentations looked pretty week...everything else looks good or fantastic.

Shame on you for eating botargo!:crankey:


The monkfish looked especially good though.


--------------------
:greys:


Edited by greys (08/06/11 02:36 PM)


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Invisiblesoochi
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Re: Dinner at Le Chateaubriand in Paris [Re: LiquidSmoke]
    #14886073 - 08/07/11 03:23 PM (12 years, 5 months ago)

so what did YOU think?

This is supposedly the future of fine dining in Paris and the whole gastropub/gastro bistro scene is just beginning to take hold in the states. Even the French are getting sick of the stuffiness of the traditional michelin dining rooms, and although that realm of fine dining will always be here, it's nice to see that top quality ingredients and creativity isn't just relegated to the few who wish to pay a lot for it.



oh, and those look like currants to me, not cranberries


--------------------
Wee, sleeket, cowran, tim'rous beastie,
O, what panic's in thy breastie!
Thou need na start awa sae hasty,
Wi' bickering brattle!


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Invisiblesoochi
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Re: Dinner at Le Chateaubriand in Paris [Re: greys]
    #14886088 - 08/07/11 03:24 PM (12 years, 5 months ago)

what's so bad about eating Botarga?

it's cured mullet roe. Mullet's aren't endangered


--------------------
Wee, sleeket, cowran, tim'rous beastie,
O, what panic's in thy breastie!
Thou need na start awa sae hasty,
Wi' bickering brattle!


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OfflineLiquidSmoke
My title's cooler than yours DBK

Registered: 09/04/01
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Re: Dinner at Le Chateaubriand in Paris [Re: soochi]
    #14886252 - 08/07/11 04:00 PM (12 years, 5 months ago)

The approach of the restaurant was alot of what you have expressed, this movement away from the stuffy fine dining scene and overly contrite presentations.


I looked at the meal as not something that's supposed to top fine dining experiences, but rather, an elevation in casual dining with just some nice twists and marks of originality in flavors.



Also with alot of fine dining places, you see alot more mellow flavor combinations.  But here there were alot stronger elements incorporated with the dishes.  Using bottarga, roasted anchovis, horseradish, etc. 

His food had a nice "punch" to it that you just don't expect from classical French cuisine.



The food itself doesn't have the highest degree of difficulty as you would find in say, Troisgros.  But the imagination and flavors were definitely notable.


There seemed to be a strong movement away from classical french fairs, no buttery sauces, no veal jus, no foie gras.  No beds of puree, no compotes shaped into canelles, no smears or careful dots of sauce across a plate.

The presentations were more for functional purposes, for the sake of eating.  Unlike in America where it seems like people are still topping every single plate of food with some kind of micro greens or edible flowers.



It was honest, simple, yet bold and original.


--------------------
"Shmokin' weed, Shmokin' wizz, doin' coke, drinkin' beers.  Drinkin' beers beers beers, rollin' fatties, smokin' blunts.  Who smokes tha blunts?  We smoke the blunts" - Jay and Silent Bob strike Back


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Offlinezappaisgod
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Re: Dinner at Le Chateaubriand in Paris [Re: greys]
    #14886899 - 08/07/11 06:31 PM (12 years, 5 months ago)

Quote:

greysRDbest said:
First three presentations looked pretty week...everything else looks good or fantastic.

The monkfish looked especially good though.



I'm going to have to agree with this.


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Invisibledaussaulit
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Re: Dinner at Le Chateaubriand in Paris [Re: soochi]
    #14886928 - 08/07/11 06:45 PM (12 years, 5 months ago)

I've never had botarga, but I've the Asian version of it, Karasumi. Maybe it's prepared different, but it looks very similar. I've had karasumi a few times, and never enjoyed it.


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OfflineLiquidSmoke
My title's cooler than yours DBK

Registered: 09/04/01
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Re: Dinner at Le Chateaubriand in Paris [Re: zappaisgod]
    #14886953 - 08/07/11 06:53 PM (12 years, 5 months ago)

I'm not going to disagree with that opinion.


But I will say, granted the chef's style, he wasn't one much for extravagant presentations.  It's more of an honest, unabridaled easy to eat form of plating.  A ceviche shot in a bowl, a raw compote of tomato on a brick of tuna, etc.


Just to suffice your eyes for more impressive presentations, here's a gem from my dinner last year at Le Bec Fin...





--------------------
"Shmokin' weed, Shmokin' wizz, doin' coke, drinkin' beers.  Drinkin' beers beers beers, rollin' fatties, smokin' blunts.  Who smokes tha blunts?  We smoke the blunts" - Jay and Silent Bob strike Back


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Invisiblesoochi
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Re: Dinner at Le Chateaubriand in Paris [Re: LiquidSmoke]
    #14887290 - 08/07/11 08:12 PM (12 years, 5 months ago)

Inaki's style is very much in the same vein as michel bras and marc veyrat, in terms of the "punches" you mention, that's where I think he clearly delineates from classical cuisine and where you can see his catalan influences, not just straight catalan flavors but the whole spaniard movement towards a refined naturalismm popularized with mugartitz and noma. I'm planning to go to paris this fall and chateaubriand was on my list.

I also want to check out L'ami jean and Spring.


--------------------
Wee, sleeket, cowran, tim'rous beastie,
O, what panic's in thy breastie!
Thou need na start awa sae hasty,
Wi' bickering brattle!


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OfflineLiquidSmoke
My title's cooler than yours DBK

Registered: 09/04/01
Posts: 25,335
Loc: S.A.G.G.Y.B.A.L.L.S.
Last seen: 6 months, 26 days
Re: Dinner at Le Chateaubriand in Paris [Re: soochi]
    #14887301 - 08/07/11 08:16 PM (12 years, 5 months ago)

You know that's interesting that you mention that, because I was thinking the same thing, in terms of how the style kind of reminded me of what's going on in Spain.


I highly recommend Le Chateaubriand, for sure. 


Btw did you get to check out the No Reservations where he goes to El Bulli?  Absolutely mind blowing to me.


--------------------
"Shmokin' weed, Shmokin' wizz, doin' coke, drinkin' beers.  Drinkin' beers beers beers, rollin' fatties, smokin' blunts.  Who smokes tha blunts?  We smoke the blunts" - Jay and Silent Bob strike Back


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Invisiblegreys
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Re: Dinner at Le Chateaubriand in Paris [Re: LiquidSmoke]
    #14887695 - 08/07/11 09:50 PM (12 years, 5 months ago)

Why don't you cultivate a circle of friends that can produce high quality food and get together once a month to make dinners like this? It isn't hard, it is much less expensive, often the food is better, and you can apply the savings on the food to some really good wine/alcohol. It's a lot more fun too. ALOT.


--------------------
:greys:


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OfflineLiquidSmoke
My title's cooler than yours DBK

Registered: 09/04/01
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Re: Dinner at Le Chateaubriand in Paris [Re: greys]
    #14891175 - 08/08/11 03:49 PM (12 years, 5 months ago)

Oh I do have some elaborate cookouts with my friends.  Pretty much all the cooking threads I've made on here were cookouts with friends, as are many of geokills'.



But theres definitely certain techniques, produce or what not, that's just too difficult for myself to accomplish as a home cook.  Eating out for me is just a special experience I only get to do every once in a while.  I'm not wealthy by any means.  Its just the one thing I save up funds to do, because I find it to be very entertaining. 

For me it's like going to a concert or a museum.


--------------------
"Shmokin' weed, Shmokin' wizz, doin' coke, drinkin' beers.  Drinkin' beers beers beers, rollin' fatties, smokin' blunts.  Who smokes tha blunts?  We smoke the blunts" - Jay and Silent Bob strike Back


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Invisiblesoochi
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Re: Dinner at Le Chateaubriand in Paris [Re: LiquidSmoke]
    #14891258 - 08/08/11 04:07 PM (12 years, 5 months ago)

yes, I did see bourdain at el bulli, it was amazing. I'm going to try out that "caramel churro" that they showed them making. I just need to get some diglyceride to emulsify the hazelnut praline so it can foam in the canister.

I do a lot of nice dinners with industry friends, needless to say we don't spend a dime on anything, even the Bernadaud plates we eat on.


--------------------
Wee, sleeket, cowran, tim'rous beastie,
O, what panic's in thy breastie!
Thou need na start awa sae hasty,
Wi' bickering brattle!


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OfflineLiquidSmoke
My title's cooler than yours DBK

Registered: 09/04/01
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Re: Dinner at Le Chateaubriand in Paris [Re: soochi]
    #14891283 - 08/08/11 04:12 PM (12 years, 5 months ago)

yeah that's an awsome perk about being a chef.


My one chef friend tells me stories about how his buddy is the pastry chef at Spago, and the guy makes all kinds of delicious treats using cannibutter, and they'll just sit around eating tons of high quality deserts and get completely baked...


sounds amazing.  I wish I had more chef friends.


--------------------
"Shmokin' weed, Shmokin' wizz, doin' coke, drinkin' beers.  Drinkin' beers beers beers, rollin' fatties, smokin' blunts.  Who smokes tha blunts?  We smoke the blunts" - Jay and Silent Bob strike Back


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Invisiblegreys
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Re: Dinner at Le Chateaubriand in Paris [Re: LiquidSmoke]
    #14891387 - 08/08/11 04:30 PM (12 years, 5 months ago)

Quote:

LiquidSmoke said:



But theres definitely certain techniques, produce or what not, that's just too difficult for myself to accomplish as a home cook.. 





Nonsense, home cooks have amazing access to both tools and ingredients that they never dreamed of 20 yrs ago.
You can achieve anything at home...and often better than a restaurant can.



as far as it being entertaining, like going to a concert.  I can understand that....I just got bored of it years ago. The last time I had anything really good someplace "famous" it was Charlie Trotters in the late 90's.

Service has gotten to be a joke, and quite frankly I prefer to dine in my own home or a friends home where things are more relaxed.


--------------------
:greys:


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InvisibleChespirito
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Re: Dinner at Le Chateaubriand in Paris [Re: LiquidSmoke]
    #14891436 - 08/08/11 04:40 PM (12 years, 5 months ago)

Quote:

LiquidSmoke said:
Btw did you get to check out the No Reservations where he goes to El Bulli?  Absolutely mind blowing to me.



The food was fucking incredible looking there, and you could tell that even the cynical Bourdain was blown away by it.  However, I thought the episode tried to make Adria too much into a revered God like figure.  I guess irrelevant to the food aspect of the show, but I wish it had treated him as a person of skill and talent, and not some on the mountain God.  Some of those scenes were absurd that way.

Oh btw, Im going to Eleven Madison Park a week from this Thursday, Ill try to capture some pictures


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OfflineLiquidSmoke
My title's cooler than yours DBK

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Re: Dinner at Le Chateaubriand in Paris [Re: greys]
    #14891455 - 08/08/11 04:44 PM (12 years, 5 months ago)

Oh don't get me wrong, I've ceom from the school of thought that nothing you go out to eat will ever be as good as what you cook yourself.


But I've come to the realization that even when it comes to imagination with food, or knowing about various lesser known flavor combinations, my knowledge and skill pales in comparison to some chefs.



I don't really ever go out to eat things that I can cook myself or know works well together.  Most of my meals I spend trying to learn about flavor combinations that I was unaware of.  I think that's the one skill that separates most home cooks from highly trained talented chefs.



But oh totally, I would rather cook things myself if it came down to the sheer quality of food.  Go check out my shrimp and grits thread, or my thread with the 6 hour bolognese.  No way could you order any of that kind of stuff at any restaurant.



Btw you going to Charlie Palmer's is pretty sweet.


--------------------
"Shmokin' weed, Shmokin' wizz, doin' coke, drinkin' beers.  Drinkin' beers beers beers, rollin' fatties, smokin' blunts.  Who smokes tha blunts?  We smoke the blunts" - Jay and Silent Bob strike Back


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Re: Dinner at Le Chateaubriand in Paris [Re: LiquidSmoke]
    #14891586 - 08/08/11 05:15 PM (12 years, 5 months ago)

It comes down to ability to taste....most people eat food and drink wine without really tasting it. They dont know how to, and can't slow down enough to teach themselves how to. Some people don't know how to enjoy a meal period...they wold food down as fast as they can, they act as though they want dinner to be over as soon as possible. I don't get it.


--------------------
:greys:


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Invisiblesoochi
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Re: Dinner at Le Chateaubriand in Paris [Re: greys]
    #14892548 - 08/08/11 08:10 PM (12 years, 5 months ago)

It boils down to the skill of the cook and the equipment available as well as the knowledge and experience to use that equipment properly. I have no doubt anyone with the means can create incredible food at home, but let's be realistic, as someone who actually does cook for a living in a fine dining establishment everyday, trying to make something from say, the Alinea cookbook would be way more enjoyable and easier in a professional kitchen. Most people wouldn't dream of spending $120 on a chinois. (and I don't expect average home cooks to know about a superbag) and a chinois is found in every modern kitchen.

and speaking for Liquid, by "eating" out we're talking fine dining most of the time, I too do very little of the Ruby tuesdays or chilis type of eating out and when I do it will be a a very nice place (most likely expensive) because as a chef there would be very few restaurants I would go where I wouldnt be able to make what they're serving me. I like the drama of service and eating out and I just like being served.


--------------------
Wee, sleeket, cowran, tim'rous beastie,
O, what panic's in thy breastie!
Thou need na start awa sae hasty,
Wi' bickering brattle!


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Invisiblesoochi
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Re: Dinner at Le Chateaubriand in Paris [Re: Chespirito]
    #14892600 - 08/08/11 08:18 PM (12 years, 5 months ago)

I don't think it's absurd, people not in the industry don't seem to understand how ground breaking his food and especially his techniques were/are. It's like before the computer and after. Adria is after. and like I said in the previous post, his contribution to cuisine will only really be appreciated long after he is gone. He has fundamentally changed the way chefs look at food, the biggest change in the industry since Ferdinand Point established the brigade system in france 100 years ago. His techniques don't have to look foreign, look at the tickets tapas bar Albert runs, all that food looks simple and recognizable, but the amount of technique that goes into them is not always apparent or even noticeable and it takes very talented and driven people to accomplish that type of food/restaurant, but remember what Jose Andres told Bourdain the difference between those that do this type of cuisine well and those that do it poorly: finesse.


--------------------
Wee, sleeket, cowran, tim'rous beastie,
O, what panic's in thy breastie!
Thou need na start awa sae hasty,
Wi' bickering brattle!


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