Notes on how I do my WBS jars, for which I've had really good success. Including my gypsum usage, and a bit on how garden gypsum works when using for a soak.
For my 12 quart batches, I add 1 cup of gypsum. The nice thing about pelletized gypsum is that the binder is water soluble. This means you don't have to grind it, I just put it in my soak brew, bring the whole brew up to 175 deg for 15 mins, and pour it (after cooling) onto my grans for a 24-36 hour soak. I also add a lot of brewed coffee and some hydrated lime to buffer the ph to 6.5. I've had tremendous results doing WBS this way. I have to stir my brew really well before pouring since the gypsum will collect on the bottom of the pot, them I pour into the bucket of WBS, and let it all soak. I let the water cool a bit to about 140 deg before my pour, since I don't want to bust any kernels. This has worked remarkably well for me. When using a GLC, I usually see growth in 48hours. The jars are fully colonized in about a week or so, depending on how prolific the strain is. Also, when moving the grains to bulk, or even fruit by themselves for experimental purposes (to see if the isolate fruits), I have found that I never get contamination. This is because I start with a higher PH. Also, my casing PH is really high, almost 8, even 8.1 sometimes.
Only once did I have a jar contam, and that was because the agar plate I took the isolate from had been contaminated with cobweb mold. This was because the parafilm had cracked and there was a rather wide gap in my tri-section plate over one of the sections. This particular section was covered with cobweb. Amazingly enough though, only the jar inoculated with that section got cobweb. Also, I caught it quick, injected 4cc's of h202 3%, and shook. One week later, the jar was fully colonized with very thick white mycelium. When I get around to it, I'm going to grow out a single grain on Agar to make double sure the grains are safe. Even though the mycelium is perfectly white and not grey anymore, I know cobweb could still be lurking somewhere, so I'm not taking any chances, but, it did clear all visual evidence of cobweb, so I think it'll be safe to use.
For colonization speed example's, B+ and PESA are the fastest colonizer's I presently have. My PFC strain is the slowest. However, I only started my PFC grows with a single syringe in the beginning, and I was a noob when I got it, so I think I'm in need of some fresh genetics regarding my PFC strain, so I think my colonization times are suspect with PFC. Now, temp is a factor as well, so I optimize my incubators for the fastest temp for each strain.
Incubation is not necessary however, unless you have really dramatic temperature fluctuations like I do, which will be remedied shortly when I cover my lab with radiant insulation, which I did a whole thread about, it's cheap, and it's amazing, it reflects 97% of heat so I use it on all my TiT incubators and TiT modded-SGFC FC's. Once I cover my lab, I know my energy costs will drop substantially. Even with my rapid temp flucs, I can still colonize fine on a shelf when I run out of room, and everything still colonizes, it just takes a few weeks longer.
-------------------- .... Always curious, always looking for better ways, mind always wonders ....
TRUE HEPA Filtered Air Pumps TEK
Everything you need to know about tubs TEK
Fast Tub Dehydrator TEK
|