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dankakanat
Never a failure, Always a lesson


Registered: 06/08/08
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Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) 4
#14360324 - 04/27/11 09:57 AM (12 years, 9 months ago) |
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Edited by dankakanat (04/27/11 09:58 AM)
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Perun
Mahapralaya...



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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: dankakanat]
#14360340 - 04/27/11 10:00 AM (12 years, 9 months ago) |
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-------------------- First: Then:
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dankakanat
Never a failure, Always a lesson


Registered: 06/08/08
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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: dankakanat]
#14360370 - 04/27/11 10:08 AM (12 years, 9 months ago) |
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This is not my tek credit go's to (sungirl)
Microwave sterilize vermiculite
Ok so this tek will envolve using a microwave and ziplock steamer bags to sterilize vermiculite. Lets begin by gathering all necessary items.
1) Ziplock steamer bags 2) vermiculite

Ok easy enough, next we fill the ziplock steamer bag with vermiculite.

Then we add water. Just add enough water to make the verm. wet enough to be field capacity.

Next we seal the bag and place in the microwave

Microwave on high for 15 minutes

And here we have sterilized vermiculite sealed in a ziplock bag for storage. Although I would not recommend storing it for long.
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Edited by dankakanat (04/28/11 10:22 PM)
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dankakanat
Never a failure, Always a lesson



Registered: 06/08/08
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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: dankakanat]
#14369525 - 04/28/11 08:55 PM (12 years, 9 months ago) |
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this is not my tek full credit go's to (Wool_dozer)
incubater
Well, I have been shopping around for a cheap heating pad to replace my space heater. All of the heading mats I have found are at least 20$ for a 10x20 inch size, and 5$ or 10$ shipping. I was using a small space heater next to my incubation shelf, but it uses 1200 watts on the low setting, and by using these heat mats, I can incubate the same amount with only 200 watts of electricity.
First off, Supplies list
Flexwatt heat mat. 10 feet @ 3.60/ft 49$ shipped Flexwatt connectors. 8 @ .50ea 4$ AC rheostat 6$ Metal outlet box for rheostat 1$ Extension Cord 8$ 10 feet of lamp cord 5$ Electrical tape 2$ Liquid electical tape 5$ 4mil black plastic 4$ Bubble wrap free, saved from xmas packages 4 tier plastic shelf 26$ packing tape 2$ aluminum tape ?? just had it around shrink tubing ?? same
Tools List
Wire Cutters Wire Strippers/Crimpers Pliers Scissors Measuring Tape Lighter or heat gun Screwdrivers
Now the good part. Get all your supplies, here is what I started with: Flexwatt and Connectors

Rheostat, box, wires, and extension cord:

A few tools:

Here is most of what I started with:

Now you need to measure the length for your heating mats, here is the plastic shelf I am using, with the bubble wrap that we will use later.

Here are the mats, cut to 30". You should also measure the distance between the shelves, so you can cut your wires that will connect the mats together.

Cut the female plug off the extension cord so you can connect the wires to the rheostat. We will also need to strip the wires so they can be attached to the mats. The feed the wires into the junction box that the rheostat will be mounted on later.


Now the wires are all connected, and I put an eye connector on the green wire. This will be mounted to the screw that holds the rheostat down. This way, the rheostat, the cord, and the junction box will be grounded.

Now you can screw the rheostat down to the junction box and your controller is done. This type of knob clicks down to turn on, and rotates to turn the power up and down.

Now it's time to attach the wires to the heat mats with the connectors. Here are the jumper wires cut to length, and the mats with the connectors crimped on. There are better pictures later showing the connector locations.

The jumper wires need to be stripped first. Then cut some of the heat shrink and slide it on the wire before you crimp them, like this.

Here is a picture with the heat-shrink on the bottom connector and the upper connector crimped. There are two wires on the upper connection since it connects mat-to-mat.

Here are all the wires, mats, and controller connected....almost 1/2 done now

Now I set all the mats on a table, so I can coat the connectors with the liquid electrical tape. I put 3 coats on each side of the metal.

Here is a picture of the connectors covered with the liquid tape. Then I cover the connectors and ends of the conductor strip with 2 layers of vinyl electrical tape.


Now the mats are complete, time to get the shelves ready. First you will use packing tape, and attach the bubble wrap around the outside. Leave a decent size opening, this will be the door later.

Once you have finished with the bubble wrap(insulation), get the heavy black plastic that will keep out light.

Cover the bubble wrap with the black plastic, but leave an opening for the cords on the heat mats. They go in next.

Next, put the piece of plastic that will be the 'door' on. Also, tape a piece of bubble wrap to the door to insulate it too. Should look like this.

Here is an update. I was having some trouble with the grains drying out on the bottom of my jars and bags. I had about 1/8" of dry grains where the containers were contacting the heat mats. I put in pieces of 1/4" plywood, but they didn't help out much. So, I took the heat mats off the top of each shelf, and taped them to the bottom, hopefully the 2" or so air gap will allow the heat to disperse and keep from drying out the grains at the bottom of my containers. I also put a layer of bubble wrap below the bottom heat mat to insulate it from the floor. These pics are of the incubator laying down, from what would be the bottom if it were standing.


I used the bubble wrap because it was free, and since it provides a stationary air layer, it is an effective insulation. I have some other insulation I have looked at, but not work the price.
A rheostat was recommended by the manufacturer of the heat tape because most thermostats are on/off, not a continuously variable power supply, and when the mats are run at 100%, they have a shorter lifespan. It was also very cheap, and to get a thermostat that is a variable power output model would have doubled or tripled the cost of the whole thing.
Before I moved the mats to the bottom of each shelf, I made plywood spacers and had shelf/mat/plywood/jars, and I think that would be similar to your stacked insulation suggestion, but it didn't help much, but the larger air gap from the mats underneath the shelves seems to be doing noticeably better.
I also thought about putting the mats up the sides, but I wanted the mats centered in the incubator to maximize the efficiency. Since I wanted them to heat through convection, and not conduction, a central placement in the incubator is more efficient than placing them on the sides.
Also, the max output of all 10 feet of mats is 200 watts, and the rheostat is normally about 1/2 way up, so I assume the whole unit is using about 100 watts if the rheostat has a linear output.
I agree 100% thicker insulation would help, but I am only heating it to around 20F above ambient, so there is a point of diminishing returns when the temperature of your heat source is that close to the temperature of your heat sink.
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Edited by dankakanat (04/28/11 10:21 PM)
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Doc_T
Random Dude




Registered: 03/06/09
Posts: 42,395
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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: dankakanat]
#14369532 - 04/28/11 08:57 PM (12 years, 9 months ago) |
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Fuck me, that's a lot of expensive dangerous fail in one place!
-------------------- You make it all possible. Doesn't it feel good?
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dankakanat
Never a failure, Always a lesson



Registered: 06/08/08
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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: dankakanat]
#14369576 - 04/28/11 09:06 PM (12 years, 9 months ago) |
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This not my tek credit go's to (Hippie3)
WAFER TEK
1. Slice fully colonized cakes into 1/4" to 1/2" wafers.
2. Place wafers side by side onto a 1/2" layer of moist (not soaking wet) vermiculite in a dark (opaque) pan or tray. Completely cover the bottom of the tray with wafers.
3. Cover wafers with a 1/2" layer of good pastuerized casing material (I use straight peat with a little lime to adjust the pH) that is slightly moistened.
4. Cover trays with a greenhouse type lid or just cover with saran wrap and leave alone in a semi dark place at around 70-75 degrees F.
5. When you see the casing layer being grown over with mycelium scratch the surface gently with a fork and start fanning a few times per day while misting lightly with a mist bottle. If possible, drop the temp a few degrees to stimulate pinning...
You should see an amazing amount of pins forming from each wafer shortly after misting starts. Keep humidity in casing level as even as possible until carpophores are fully developed...
This method works really well and usually produces many more mushrooms than nursing whole cakes to fruition. Try it and see for yourself...
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dankakanat
Never a failure, Always a lesson



Registered: 06/08/08
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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: dankakanat]
#14369619 - 04/28/11 09:15 PM (12 years, 9 months ago) |
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this is not my tek credit go's to (Drenkhahn (Drenkhahn)
Wick Tek for BRF Cakes
Setting up the wick.
Nail hole in the center of a 1/2 pint jar lid..

Insert wick like so...

At this point you want to spike a hole, verticly, through the cake. I used a small metal rod (cleaned with rubbing alchohol but not sterilized).
Then you gotta kind of jerry-rig your wick to what ever you are using to push through your cake so that the wick is inserted through the entire length of the cake.
Once the wick is inserted through the length of the cake, pull the wick snug so that the wick is sitting striaght. It should extend out 2-3 inches from the bottom as in the picture.
Fill up the resivoir (I used a 1/2 pint widemouth jar) with distilled water. Be sure the wick lies well below the water.
You can PC the jar and water if you want. I did not, and no contamination is visible to this day..

Results?
As stated above. FOAF used a control cake, double end cased, under the same growing conditions from start to finish.

So far so good..

...


(drum roll please)
Wicked cake = 95g wet
Control cake = 61g wet
Ugly as hell, but with a bit more effort and control who knows what the furture holds...
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Edited by dankakanat (04/28/11 09:16 PM)
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k00laid
NEMO


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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: Doc_T]
#14369661 - 04/28/11 09:22 PM (12 years, 9 months ago) |
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Quote:
Doc_T said: Fuck me, that's a lot of expensive dangerous fail in one place!
LOL this thread has some interesting information.
most of those links are like over 2 years old arent they?
-------------------- AMU - AMU Q & A - MyVideo Teks!
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k00laid
NEMO


Registered: 05/03/10
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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: dankakanat]
#14369668 - 04/28/11 09:23 PM (12 years, 9 months ago) |
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Quote:
dankakanat said: sterilized vermiculite sealed in a ziplock bag for storage. Although I would not recommend storing it for long.
what? then its defo not sterilized.
-------------------- AMU - AMU Q & A - MyVideo Teks!
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dankakanat
Never a failure, Always a lesson



Registered: 06/08/08
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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: dankakanat]
#14369678 - 04/28/11 09:27 PM (12 years, 9 months ago) |
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not my tek credit go's to (Guest_JuggaloKlown_*)
JuggaloKlowns coir preperation tek
So lets start:
First things first, start water boiling, I use tap water, it will work. You'll probably need a very large pot, and you'll have to fill it 2 or 3 times.

start getting together supplies
2 blocks of coir 5 gallon bucket with lid Calcium Carb (reptile sand) Malt Syrup karo Vermiculite coffee grinds (optional) i also have some spawn and filterpatch bags, as this is how i make my invitro coir bags.. this mix will work for ANY bulk substrate recipe!

be sure your malt syrups out to get room temp!


this is so you can squeeze out the water, just plain pillowcase's

so here is your Calc Carb i use the blue reptile sand:

ok so water should be boiling by now,
place coir into the bottom of the bucket, and put a tablespoon of calc carb on top o the block:

pour in some malt!

add two quarts of verm per block of coir:

add two tablespoons of Karo (no pic, self explanatory)
add water! and stir!

to do this TWICE

now cover with lid, let sit till cool enough to work with, AND ITS DONE!!!!

i've had a 0% fail rate using this method, juST be sure to wring out the water with the pillowcases, when you grab a handfull and squeeze, there should be SMALL flow of water, not like if you were using it as a casing material, u want this a lot more moist.
I would say Coir comes in as a good 2nd to Horse manure as a bulk substrate. It is MUCH CHEAPER, easier to prepare, and works GREAT, however it has it's downside! it doesn't flush very long, and it is difficult to handle when you rehydrate it.
Here are just a few of my coir tubs, and bags:

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k00laid
NEMO


Registered: 05/03/10
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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: dankakanat]
#14369688 - 04/28/11 09:29 PM (12 years, 9 months ago) |
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you dont think all the sugar drains out with the water? 
just wondering
-------------------- AMU - AMU Q & A - MyVideo Teks!
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dankakanat
Never a failure, Always a lesson



Registered: 06/08/08
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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: dankakanat]
#14369698 - 04/28/11 09:32 PM (12 years, 9 months ago) |
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not my tek credit go's to (magicman1900)
Blotter Shroom Paper
While attempting a Crystals of the Gods extraction from a half ounce of PE using 200 proof ethanol, my damn mason jar cracked about an hour into it, and I lost everything into my hot water bath. Instead of wasting it, I decided to just evap the water down, so every day when I woke up I turned the burner on the lowest setting and let it slowly evaporate. This took several days, as the water never got too hot to touch, and there was no fan on it. Last night I strained out the little bit of water that was left and put it in front of a fan. When it was almost dry I dropped a piece of paper towel in the evap dish, cut to size, and this is what I ended up with:

^^It was stuck in the dish, so I added a few drops of ethanol to unstick it, this is it drying in front of a fan. There were still some crystals stuck on the bottom of the evap dish, so I know they are all up in that paper towel. There was a 1/2 oz of PE in there, so I drew lines on the paper to make 30 "hits". That is slightly less than a 1/2 gram per hit, so we will see how it is
You can kinda see the perforations I drew on the other side of the paper. Next time I'm just going to soak the powder in ethanol for 5 days, strain, add fresh alcohol, wait 5 days, then combine the two liquids and evap down. (It's good to shake it up several times a day too while it's soaking in the alcohol). Heating it up takes forever and it sucks if the jar breaks

You can easily do this by just soaking the powder in hot water, just as you would for making tea, but I have a very weak stomach and can't take my preferred dose without intense stomach pain, even with tea, that is why the crystals of the gods is my favorite. Extracting with alcohol never gives me stomach pain, where the tea still does. For most people the tea is the same as the alcohol, so if you don't really have stomach discomfort when eating mushrooms, there is no reason to waste your alcohol
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dankakanat
Never a failure, Always a lesson



Registered: 06/08/08
Posts: 423
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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: dankakanat]
#14369743 - 04/28/11 09:40 PM (12 years, 9 months ago) |
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this is not my tek credit go's to (NineInchNails)
Bulk Pasteurization Technique
I want to start out first by saying that this is not my idea and has been done before by many people and many different ways.
Materials Needed: 1 Cooler 1 Thread Tap 1/4" NPT (National Pipe Tap) and is somewhat optional 1 Brass Barbed Fitting 1/4" x 1/4" NPT (National Pipe Tap) 6' of 1/4" Fuel Line Optional - Teflon Thread Tape

How To:
I threaded the inside coolers' drain hole using a 1/4" thread tap. If you do not have a thread tap and do not want to buy one then you can just skip this step and go straight to the next. The threads on the barbed fitting should bite the plastic well enough to make a positive seal (and don't use thread tape).

I used some thread tape on the 1/4" x 1/4" barbed fitting (which is optional) and installed the barbed fitting.

Now attach the other end of the fuel line to the steam port on your PC.


How To Use It:
1.Load the cooler with containers of field capacity bulk substrate.
2.Fill the PC with an adequate amount of water.
3.Turn heat to high.
4.Once steam begin entering the cooler the temp should begin rising inside the cooler.
5.Monitor the core temp of one of the bulk substrate containers. Once the core temp reaches 140F you have begun the pasteurization process.
6.Maintain the core temp between 140F-160F for 60 to 90 minutes then turn off the heat.
While I was waiting for the PC to start steaming I decided to install a temp probe port. I drilled a 7/16" hole in the center of the lid.

I then used the 1/4" thread tap in the hole.

I screwed in a 1/4" plastic plug, but I drilled the center out so I could use both a meat thermometer, a thermometer probe or both at the same time.


Here's what it looks like when the steam started coming out!


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Edited by dankakanat (04/28/11 09:41 PM)
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dankakanat
Never a failure, Always a lesson



Registered: 06/08/08
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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: dankakanat]
#14369790 - 04/28/11 09:48 PM (12 years, 9 months ago) |
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this is not my tek credit go's to (Nan (Nanook)
Spore Collection
Prepare a 1/2 pint (wide mouth) mason jar by making a mushroom cap holder in the top.
Use wire to make a cradle that hangs on the top edge of the jar. Insulated solid copper wire (18 ga or so) is great for this as it won't corrode from the sterilizing.

The mushroom cap should sit down in the top of the jar so the jar can be covered. Fill the jar about 2/3 full of distilled water, put the cradle in place, put a piece of cloth or filter material over the top, then a piece of Al foil over that. Lay another piece of Al foil fairly loosely over the first one. Pressure cook for 20 - 30 minutes at 15 PSI. (The reason for the 2 layers of foil is that one can remove the top layer to expose a sterile surface on which to lay the cap while the air in the transfer box turns over a few times.)
When cool, put it in the transfer chamber. Select the mushroom you want to use and wait until it starts to drop spores before cutting the cap off with a sterile knife. You can use a fish hook to hold and carry the cap. Remove the loose Al foil and place the cap on the newly exposed sterile foil top (in the chamber,) put on the chamber lid and turn on the fan.

After a few minutes, pick up the cap, lift the foil and cloth top, and place the cap on the wire support.

Cover with the filter material only and put in a draft free, dry area for a couple days. A rubber band helps to hold the cover in place.

You'll see the spores on the surface of the water. A gentle swirl will wet them. Remove the cloth cover, mushroom cap, and wire support all at once (in the chamber.) Open a new baggie and put it over the jar. Put a rubber band around the jar to seal, then draw syringes of the spore water by piercing the plastic bag.
The reasons this procedure is preferred over the dry tek are: 1) the spores don't have to be scraped loose from the bottom of the jar. 2) the unsterile mushroom cap never touches the jar.
Both these things help reduce the possibility of contamination.
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dankakanat
Never a failure, Always a lesson



Registered: 06/08/08
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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: dankakanat]
#14369903 - 04/28/11 10:06 PM (12 years, 9 months ago) |
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this is not my tek credit go's to (faht (Fahtphish)
Fahtty Isolation/Mycelium syringe tek
1. Overview - This is a tek that I use to isolate substrains and make mycelium syringes at the same time without the use of a glovebox or flowhood. Although it is required that you are experienced with grain substrates. This can be done in a few minutes while making you spawn grain jars/bags what have you.
First take a clean 1/2 pint jar and fill the bottom with a 1/2 inch or so of hydrated grain substrate. (Note- I used dry popcorn kernels just for demonstration purposes only... you are going to use hydrated grain). Here are a couple examples..


Now cover with two layers of tyvek and lid band (this is what i use, you can use polyfil or any number of ways to seal the jar) and PC normal, 15 psi for 45 min...

When this is done and cool remove from PC and clean the center of the tyvek with rubbing alcohol....

Now poke thru the center of the tyvek with a spore syringe (sterile of course) and ONLY PUT ONE DROP IN THE MIDDLE... I have found that this is VERY hard to do.. lol but it is ESSENTIAL for this tek to work....

Now DO NOW SHAKE, DISTURB, OR EVEN MOVE the jar... if you can, inoculate the jar in the exact place you are going to let it colonize. The reason that you don't want the jar to be disturbed is that you want the spores to germinate as close together as you can to allow ONE dominate substrain to 'eat' the rest. Don't even look at the jar for five days. This how you get a substrain.
Now you are going to let this substrain colonize the little bit of grain on the bottom of the 1/2 pint. Remember to tape up the tyvek 95% or your grain will dry out. When finished it should look something like this..


Now you are going to want to prepare plain water syringes... I do four per 1/2 pint isolate... BUT you are going to want to prepare five and ill tell you why in bit. Also, leave 1 ml out of four of those syringes
Now take your colonized 1/2 pint iso. and break it up in the jar by hitting the jar against your hand, It shouldn't take much...

Now clean off an injection spot on the tyvek with Rubbing alcohol...

Now take the one plain water syringe that you didn't leave any water out of. flame the needle and inject the water into the jar...

Now remove the needle and quickly place a piece of tape over the needle hole in the tyvek...

Now kind of gently shake the jar to get the mycelium to come off the kernels and into the water from your plain water syringe. This acts kind of like a organic eberbach container.

Once completed, clean off another injection spot with R.A. and take your now empty plain water syringe and poke thru the tyvek (you are going to want to do this as close to the edge of the jar lid as possible)..

push the needle up against the side of the jar. tilt the jar so you get as much water by the syringe as you can and suck up the mycelium ladened water... when done your syringe should look something like this....

As you can see the syringe is now only half full. This is because some of the water 'stuck' to the corn kernels.. this is ok.. as you can also see, there is so much mycelium in the syringe that it has a blue tint to it and you can't see thru it.
Ok, now comes in the rest of your syringes... This one myc. syringe you just made has enough myc. in it to fill the rest of your syringes... When you PC your syringes, also PC one empty 1/2 pint jar with two layers of tyvek and band. Use this jar to combine all four plain water syringes (the ones missing the 1 ml of water) and the one myc. syringe. Then suck up the water and you will have four myc. laden syringes. The only downfall of this that you have to use the syringes right away or the myc. will die in the syringes. But this is a great way to get isolates without the use of a glovebox or flowhood. my yeilds have increase at least 30 percent since i switched to isolates over multispore. Here is a couple of pix of qts i did with this tek.. works like a charm. first one is Matius Romero and the second is a Texas isolate...

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dankakanat
Never a failure, Always a lesson



Registered: 06/08/08
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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: dankakanat]
#14369973 - 04/28/11 10:18 PM (12 years, 9 months ago) |
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this is not my tek credit go's to (NineInchNails)
NineInchNails lids
I used a little plastic lid as a stencil to find dead center of the jar lids, drilled a small guide hole, and then drilled a 1/4" diameter hole. You can actually stack a few lids on top of each other and drill them all at once. Making sure that your guide hole is DEAD CENTER is important.



I cut out a BUNCH of Tyvek disks using free Tyvek envelopes from the local post office. I used a jar lid as the stencil.

I use the plastic stencil and a pin to mark the dead center of the Tyvek disks. You can stack and mark more than several tyvek disks at a time.

I use RTV high temp silicone to create inoculation points over the pin holes. I leave the silicone to dry for at least 24 hrs.

place a lid on the jars either right side up or upside down (lids do not stick to the jars if used upside down), Tyvek disk with inoculation point, then the jar ring:


Edited by dankakanat (04/28/11 10:19 PM)
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dankakanat
Never a failure, Always a lesson



Registered: 06/08/08
Posts: 423
Loc: Unknown
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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: dankakanat]
#14370041 - 04/28/11 10:30 PM (12 years, 9 months ago) |
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this is not my tek credit go's to (dub504)
12 Shroomie Peanut Butter Cup
1 cup semisweet chocolate chips 1/4 cup butter 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 1/4 cup peanut butter 3 tablespoons honey 24 grams powdered shrooms (1.5 or 2 grams per cup works fine)


Keep the temperatures as low as possible for both mixes. 1. In a microwave-safe bowl, microwave chocolate with butter and oil, stirring often, just until melted, less than 1 minute.
2. Melt peanut butter and honey in microwave for less than 1 minute. Stir in the mushroom powder. You might need to stick it in the microwave for another 10 seconds if it stiffens up while you're mixing. (It should stay pretty pliable though)

3. Coat a small cup muffin tin with cooking spray.Pour about a tablespoon of the chocolate mixture into each muffin cup.

4. Once mixed evenly, weigh the PB ball and divide that number by the number of treats you are making. Make smaller flattened PB balls and lightly press into the chocolate in the muffin cups.

5. Top with another tablespoon of chocolate.


6. Chill in refrigerator 30 minutes or until hardened. You can wrap them in wax paper (like peppermints) and store them in a Seal-A-Meal sack in the freezer until you're ready. 7. ENJOY!!!
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dankakanat
Never a failure, Always a lesson



Registered: 06/08/08
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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: dankakanat]
#14370075 - 04/28/11 10:35 PM (12 years, 9 months ago) |
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Here's a cool pic I found on how a pressure cooker works
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wildernessjunkie
Reshitivest



Registered: 06/13/10
Posts: 8,118
Loc: HTTP 404 Not Found
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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: Doc_T]
#14370093 - 04/28/11 10:38 PM (12 years, 9 months ago) |
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Quote:
Doc_T said: Fuck me, that's a lot of expensive dangerous fail in one place!

Hot, flamable, electric, plastic fun!
This is an excellent way to burn the place down.
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dankakanat
Never a failure, Always a lesson



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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: dankakanat]
#14370158 - 04/28/11 10:50 PM (12 years, 9 months ago) |
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this is not my tek credit go's to (hyphaenation)
Pucks = Pressed..Substrate..Cakes
I decided to make this thread to consolidate my ideas on Pucks. I have other puck threads but they were for testing the idea and i've learned a bunch since then.
What the fuck is a puck you ask ? Well ... a puck is substrate material that is pressed into shape. The first ones I did looked like a hockey puck and the name stuck.
They can be pressed into many different shapes and sizes. The basic idea is that you take pasteurized substrate material and place it in a form and squeeze. Here's how I do it:
Things you'll need:
A blender Cardboard Substrate materials of your choice (choose contam resistant stuff) Slurry , 9er tek water , LC (any of them) Yogurt container Wire strainer Glass jar
The first thing I do is to soak my materials. This means an overnight soak for the sub materials that will be pasteurized and a shorter soak for the cardboard.
So now we're ready to start the puck making process. First order of business is to place torn up pieces of the cardboard into the blender of water (you can add things like karo , potato water etc if you want to).
Use pulse mode (the first button) at first in short bursts so that the blender can keep up with pulping the cardboard. It takes a bit of practice to get it right , but becomes old hat eventually.

Every time your done pulping a load of cardboard in the blender dump it into the wire mesh strainer over a pail and let it drain. When its drained a bit dump it into a large bowl or other bucket and repeat.

Keep blending until you are done all your cardboard. Other things that work good for the mix and blend well are newsprint and egg cartons (not styrofoam). When its done clean up any messes and head outside.
Now its time to pasteurize your sub material. For this thread i'm using a 50 / 50 mixture of Coir and Garlic straw chips. Use whatever has been good to you over the years. The quickest way I like to pasteurize is to put the materials in a bucket of the hottest tap water possible , filled halfway. At the same time boil a large pot of water (or a pot and a kettle).
When the waters boiled add it to the half-filled hot water bucket and voila ... 160 F'ish water. Let that sit for 2 hours solid (don't skimp) and drain partially and allow to cool. When the pasteurizing is done take a clean tub and dump it in there. Don't worry about extra water because it will be pressed out later.
Take the cardboard pulp that you made and have sitting in a bucket and dump it on the pasteurized sub material. Mix very well and evenly. Make sure to get the cardboard as mixed in as you can.

Now take a jar of TV's slurry (colonized BRF cake blended in water) 9er tek water , or other spawn and slowly start squirting (or sprinkling) it on to the sub mix. Keep flipping and mixing as you add the spawn.
I made a very thick BRF slurry so I decided to water it down before this stage. This gave me a lot more Slurry. I simply added slurry to a jar of water , shook and sprinkled on the sub mix.


When that is good and mixed you are ready to form pucks ! To do that get a yogurt container and a large glass jar ready. Start stuffing the yogurt container with the innoced sub mix. Use your hands to push on the material and get it really packed in there.

Use the glass jar bottom to tamp and press the material in the yogurt container. Then flip the yogurt container over the jar (jar is upside-down) and start pressing with all your might , both hands. Rotate the container as you press , you'll see streams of water as all the extra moisture is pushed out. Keep pressing until there is not much or no water remaining to run.
You've just pressed your first puck !

Now eject the puck on a clean surface by pressing down on the yogurt container bottom. Plop , out she comes.
Repeat this process for each puck and when you are done make sure to put them in a clean , dark , warm place and don't forget to mark the strain name if you are doing multiples.
Here's some of the benefits i've found with pucks:
- Little to no contams (have'nt had one yet , touch wood) - Long-lasting and many flushes - Easy to handle and much less fragile then a cake - Many sub materials can be incorporated into the mix - Gives rise to large fruits - All work can be done open air with no PC
I'd highly recommend pressed substrate pucks , especially when you use techniques like slurry and 9er tek that place mycelium everywhere in and on the puck. You can see growth within 48 hours.
Here's some pictures of pucks gone by. I hope you enjoyed this thread and as always feel free to try this at home.





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Edited by dankakanat (04/28/11 10:51 PM)
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wildernessjunkie
Reshitivest



Registered: 06/13/10
Posts: 8,118
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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: dankakanat]
#14370227 - 04/28/11 11:03 PM (12 years, 9 months ago) |
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Pucks = Pressed..Substrate..Cakes
I gotta say. Thats a big ass mushroom for a cake.
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dankakanat
Never a failure, Always a lesson



Registered: 06/08/08
Posts: 423
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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: wildernessjunkie]
#14370262 - 04/28/11 11:11 PM (12 years, 9 months ago) |
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this is not my tek credit go's to (Admin (Admin)
Improving BRF Cake Formula: Super Cakes

invitro pinning pf cake there are many 'teks' floating around that are more 'wishful thinking' than useful practical formulas. let me share some real good practical advice with you about cake formulas. your basic pf formula, brown rice round up and mixed with verm and water, is damn near close to perfect 'as is'. there are very few improvements you can make that actually change/improve on it. most of those are still fairly minor, only slightly improving performance/yield. the biggest area for easy improvement is in the water. pf just uses ordinary water but there are better choices. pf himself recommended 'natural water', i.e. water from natural sources like creeks, rivers, lakes, etc. no salt water, of course. i tested it several times, as have others, and pf was right. 'natural water' kicks major ass and makes a noticeable improvement over tap. that's because it contains lots of dissolved nutrients from running over fields, fish shit, etc. this can be further improved upon by the addition of a small amount of worm castings/manure to the water bucket to soak 24 hours, creating a manure 'tea'. cubies thrive on manures and show a strong positive response to this addition. again, worthwhile.
all of these improvements can be used apart or combined. but still only use 1/4 cup of water per cake.
now, as for the dry ingredients- still with the brf but you can add a tablespoon or two of 'additives' that will be helpful.
bee pollen is one additive that seems to help, but very little is needed, only 1/4 teaspoon in a cake is enough.
also about the same amount of nutritional yeast.
don't try adding grains unless you grind them first, just like the rice.
but a tablespoon of flax seed is a nice supplement.
that's about it, nothing more is needed or really even worthwhile as far as pf cake formulas go.
this is not my tek credit go's to (~Hippie3)
Hippie's supercake formula
i use lake water with 2 tablespoons of liquid kelp extract added per gallon i toss a cup of worm castings in a 2.5 gallon jug with that and let it brew a couple days
> a batch = 12 half pints
each batch gets 4 heaping cups vermiculite , medium horticultural grade. 2 heaping cups coarse freshly ground rice 2 level cups lake water 'tea'
then i add
1 teaspoon of nutritional yeast, 1 tablespoon bee pollen, 1 tablespoon flax seed 1 tablespoon shredded coconut meat/flour 1 tablespoon blue corn meal 1 tablespoon coarse yellow corn meal 1 tablespoon of powdered/ground kelp meal 1 tablespoon of cottonseed meal
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Edited by dankakanat (04/28/11 11:28 PM)
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The shroomy 1
Luminous beings surround me




Registered: 03/27/07
Posts: 5,543
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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: wildernessjunkie]
#14370289 - 04/28/11 11:18 PM (12 years, 9 months ago) |
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I get the fact that you doing your part in contributing to the community. It would be so much more "Powerful" and "Meaningful" if YOU used these teks and posted your own results. I applaud your enthusiasm! Now put your words into action! Post pics of your own grows based on teks you have posted. That is much more powerful and meaningful.
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AMU Q&A thread.
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dankakanat
Never a failure, Always a lesson



Registered: 06/08/08
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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: The shroomy 1]
#14370340 - 04/28/11 11:30 PM (12 years, 9 months ago) |
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i plan to i got alot of ideas for tek's
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Edited by dankakanat (04/30/11 11:19 AM)
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Doc_T
Random Dude




Registered: 03/06/09
Posts: 42,395
Loc: Colorado
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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: dankakanat]
#14371105 - 04/29/11 03:42 AM (12 years, 9 months ago) |
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This thread is like a time machine that takes you back before people understood much about growing mushrooms at home.
-------------------- You make it all possible. Doesn't it feel good?
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Mycowlogist
Freethinker



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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: Doc_T]
#14371318 - 04/29/11 06:05 AM (12 years, 9 months ago) |
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Thanks a lot! That is some very interesting reading.
-------------------- "And in the end, it's not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years." Honest Abe
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Mycowlogist
Freethinker



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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: Mycowlogist]
#14371320 - 04/29/11 06:07 AM (12 years, 9 months ago) |
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LOL... Plus it saves you a lot of time when "helpful" people tell you to just use the search function!
-------------------- "And in the end, it's not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years." Honest Abe
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k00laid
NEMO


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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: Mycowlogist]
#14371569 - 04/29/11 07:55 AM (12 years, 8 months ago) |
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i cant believe he posted the shroom blotter paper tek...
-------------------- AMU - AMU Q & A - MyVideo Teks!
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dankakanat
Never a failure, Always a lesson



Registered: 06/08/08
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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: k00laid]
#14371861 - 04/29/11 09:50 AM (12 years, 8 months ago) |
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lol whys that
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dankakanat
Never a failure, Always a lesson



Registered: 06/08/08
Posts: 423
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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: dankakanat]
#14372028 - 04/29/11 10:47 AM (12 years, 8 months ago) |
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another good pic i found for brf dunking.
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k00laid
NEMO


Registered: 05/03/10
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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: dankakanat]
#14372202 - 04/29/11 11:30 AM (12 years, 8 months ago) |
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Quote:
dankakanat said: lol whys that 
you really think that shit worked?
-------------------- AMU - AMU Q & A - MyVideo Teks!
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dankakanat
Never a failure, Always a lesson



Registered: 06/08/08
Posts: 423
Loc: Unknown
Last seen: 1 year, 3 months
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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: k00laid]
#14372225 - 04/29/11 11:36 AM (12 years, 8 months ago) |
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if u can drink it why would it not work if u soak it up nobody said it didn't work that i seen lol and it looked cool
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zydisqwap
Zimmer Fingers


Registered: 11/27/10
Posts: 179
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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: dankakanat]
#14372345 - 04/29/11 12:12 PM (12 years, 8 months ago) |
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thanks for the interesting read...fun little time looking at all the pictorial teks
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k00laid
NEMO


Registered: 05/03/10
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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: dankakanat]
#14372561 - 04/29/11 01:08 PM (12 years, 8 months ago) |
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Quote:
dankakanat said: if u can drink it why would it not work if u soak it up nobody said it didn't work that i seen lol and it looked cool 
try evaping some tea to get some "psilocybin crystals"
you'll see.
-------------------- AMU - AMU Q & A - MyVideo Teks!
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Hive Node
Stranger


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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: k00laid]
#14372874 - 04/29/11 02:25 PM (12 years, 8 months ago) |
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Will using lakewater in BRF cakes actually improve the yeilds/potency? The logic is sound to me but I've no experience beyond my first grow which still hasn't finished.
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wildernessjunkie
Reshitivest



Registered: 06/13/10
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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: Hive Node]
#14372904 - 04/29/11 02:30 PM (12 years, 8 months ago) |
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Quote:
Hive Node said: Will using lakewater in BRF cakes actually improve the yeilds/potency? The logic is sound to me but I've no experience beyond my first grow which still hasn't finished.
No.
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Doc_T
Random Dude




Registered: 03/06/09
Posts: 42,395
Loc: Colorado
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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: wildernessjunkie]
#14372912 - 04/29/11 02:31 PM (12 years, 8 months ago) |
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Quote:
wildernessjunkie said:
Quote:
Hive Node said: Will using lakewater in BRF cakes actually improve the yeilds/potency? The logic is sound to me but I've no experience beyond my first grow which still hasn't finished.
No.
Maybe if everything else was perfectly perfect you might possible see a difference.
-------------------- You make it all possible. Doesn't it feel good?
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dankakanat
Never a failure, Always a lesson



Registered: 06/08/08
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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: Doc_T]
#14377137 - 04/30/11 11:31 AM (12 years, 8 months ago) |
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i found this, this is not mine
General Cultivation Questions
What is Perlite? Perilite is made of small white volcanic mineral pebbles that can be used in substrates for aeration and fruiting chambers for higher levels of humidity. Commonly found in potting soils.
What is Vermiculite? Weathered Mica that has been heated until its expanded. Great additive to prevent substrate and/or casing compaction - helps with aeration and water retention - Ever wondered what that glittery stuff in your bag of shrooms was? Thats the stuff!
Where do I get Mason Jars? Many places. Lowes, Walmart, Home depot, Anywhere they sell canning supplies should have them. Spores 101 sells them too!
What is tyvek and where can I buy it? It is a weather resistant media that is breathable and has many different uses....as for use in this hobby it is primarily used as a filter as you may see in many applications in "teks" for wbs(wild bird seed) jars,grain jars, and even is incorporated into some peoples fc's...You can obtain this material free of charge via the local postal office per envelopes....better yet you can have them shipped to your door to save you the hassle...free of charge never-the-less! Where can I buy my supplies? Most of your supplies can be found at mushbox.com or spores101.com. You can also find most of your more common supplies at walmart, or Lowes. I have found everything I need at these shops. These are the only places I have shopped for supplies no need to go anywhere else.
What are some common casing soil ingredients? Peat moss, vermiculite, and coco coir are the most common. Credit to Sungirl69's Archived FAQ
What are some common pH buffers? Calcium carbonate is a natural substance and can be purchased in many forms. One of the most common and easy to find source for calcium carbonate is crushed oyster shell found in the bird supplies section at the pet store. Another common ingredient is calcium hydroxide can be purchased in the form of pickling lime,or quick lime, pickling lime is found in walmart near the canning jars. Some other pH buffers are gypsum, and chalk. Credit to Sungirl69's Archived FAQ
What is the difference in strain potency? All p. cubensis mushrooms primarily have the same psychoactive chemicals know as psilocybin and psylocin. The mixture of these psychedelic alkaloids as well as cultivation methods make the difference. It is hard to say for sure which p.cubensis strain is more potent then another and to most people they find a favorite for one reason or another. Some members on this forum are fond of South American strain while others like Tasmanian. I am particularly fond of Cambodian. The fact is that it is a personal preference. I am sure no matter which p. cubensis strain you choose to study, you will not be disappointed.
What is the difference in a spore syringe and spore print, and which one should I buy? A spore print is the actual spores released by the mushroom that has been collected on a piece of paper and will need to be prepared following a tek to make a syringe before use. A syringe is an inoculant that has already been prepared using a print. If you are new to cultivation you will want to purchase a syringe as there is no preparation work needed to use a syringe. Once you are familiar with cultivation you will be able to collect your own spore print and make your own syringes.
My spore syringe looks like there are no spores in it, why? Spores are microscopic, so tiny that sometimes they will not be visible. In most cases when you see spores in your syringe you are actually looking at clumps of spores that have stuck together. If your syringe looks like there is nothing in it but water, rest assured there are spores there you just cant see them. Credit to Sungirl69's Archived FAQ
My buddy only boils his jars and has never seen contams,can't I do that? A Pressure Cooker(PC) is the preferred method - Some people do get by with no pressure cooker and they're lucky. To be consistently succesful, pony up and get a Pressure Cooker!
What is the difference in a cake and a casing, and which method should I use? A casing is an advanced method for cultivation using a grain based substrate, the fully colonized substrate is crumbled and layered in a pan with casing soil layered on top used to simulate nature, the casing soil provides a micro-climate and nutrients to help with fruiting, it involves many variables thus increasing the risk of human error. A cake is an easier method of colonization using brown rice flour and vermiculite as a substrate, the fully colonized substrate is gently removed from the jar whole and has the appearance of a cake thus the name. The cake is introduced to fruiting conditions and fruited as is, without added soil. If you are new to cultivation I would recommend using the cake cultivation method as there are less variables thus less risk of human error and a higher success rate. Credit to Sungirl69's Archived FAQ
What is the difference in pasteurizing and sterilizing? Sterilizing kills all organisms and their spores and pasteurizing kills only heat susceptible harmful organisms while leaving helpful micro organisms that may be beneficial. Heat sterilizing involves temperatures of over 250 deg for extended periods of time. Pasteurizing involves temperatures of 160-179 deg for shorter periods of time. Substrates that do not contain helpful micro-organisms such as grain should be sterilized, while bulk substrates that do contain helpful micro-organisms such as dung and straw should be pasteurized.
What is the best light to use for growing mushrooms? Pretty much any light source which looks "white" should work well to show the mushrooms which direction to grow. Some sources which are known to be effective are: diffuse sunlight; fluorescent lamps labelled as Daylight/xxxxK, Cool White/xxxxK, or Full Spectrum; uncoloured incandescent lamps (the heat they generate can be a problem though), battery operated, stick-on, white light LED based fixtures sold as undercounter or closet lights. Some sources which don't appear to put out enough energy in the required wavelength(s) are: Warm White/xxxxK and Soft White/xxxxK fluorescent lamps; blue LED Christmas lights; most lamps which look to be red, orange, or green.
What growing method will give me the BIGGEST yield? There is no substitute for experience. But a good rule of thumb = Cake- low. Casing/Bulk - medium to high.
Can I re-use my old syringes? When it comes to sterilizing syringes this is ultimately the safest way. Wrap them in foil and PC them for 30 min @ 15psi.
This is likely the 2nd safest method of sterilizing syringes: 1. Bring a small pot of water to a rapid boil. 2. Allow to boil for at least 3 minutes (time it). Once the time is up turn the heat down. 3. Suck up enough water to fill the syringe, let sit for about 15-30 seconds, and then shoot the water out into the sink. 4. Repeat step #3 about 5 times. 5. Flame sterilize the needle and now you can use your syringe.
How much is 1cc? 1cc is equal to 1ml.
What are the benefits of using a humidifier? The benefits of using a humidifier are that you will have to fan and spray your fruiting chamber much less.. or not at all. Oftentimes a humidifier setup will be completely automated or low maintenance.. i.e - once you reach a certain stage.. you may not have to do anything besides add water to the humidifier and pick mushrooms. It often eliminates the need for fanning or misting.
A cool mist humidifier provides almost ideal humidity levels for casings, and more importantly, constant gas exchange. Unless you have a very large terrarium, a cool mist is usually enough to provide adequate humidity levels.
If you are going the humidifier route is recommended that you invest in a quality hygrometer to monitor the humidity levels.
What can I do to ensure the water in my humidifier is clean and minimize contaminants? Use distilled, bottled, filtered, or even (cooled) boiled water. Tap water is generally to be avoided. A small amount of iodine can also be safely added (1-2 drops per gallon). Make sure your humidifier air intake has a clean filter on it. If it did not come with one, tape a HEPA or micron filter over it. Practice general sterile procedure and keep yourself and your grow room clean.
What are the ideal humidity levels for cakes and casings? For cakes: 95%-100% relative humidity For casings: 92% dropped to as low as 82% during fruiting.
Do i need to do 12/12 hour light? is 24 hours ok? 12 hours or 24 hours both work fine.
My mushrooms have turned black while growing, have they gone bad? If it rubs off the caps, its just spores and is a normal part of the process.
Should I flame sterilize the syringe needle right before inoculation, with every jar? Yes you should flame sterilize the syringe needle right before you inoculate each substrate jar to eliminate risk of contamination that potentially resides on the needle even if the needle was sealed prior to use. Credit to Sungirl69's Archived FAQ
How long can I safely store my pre-sterilized substrate jars? Pre-sterilized substrate jars should be used as soon as possible. However they have the potential to last several months in the refrigerator. Make sure they are in a ziplock bag to help eliminate the risk of contamination, and place them in the refrigerator. Credit to Sungirl69's Archived FAQ
How long can I safely store my spore syringes? Spore syringes can be stored a very long time in the refrigerator. I have stored them as long as 6 months and they were still good. I would not recommend this, however, as it is better to order them as you need and use them as soon as possible. But yes, they will last in the refrigerator without any problem. Credit to Sungirl69's Archived FAQ
What is the difference between jars and growbags, which one should I buy? The main difference is that jars are reusable and growbags are not. Both are good to use for grain substrates. I have found that jars are a little easier to work with when making your own. If this is your first grow I would recommend you make or buy the pf style substrate jars for your first grow as they are easier and have a higher success potential for beginner cultivators. Credit to Sungirl69's Archived FAQ
Do i have to incubate? What tempature should my colonizing jars be at? No incubation is not necessary jar can and will incubate at room tempature. BUT tempatures around 82* are said to have faster growth, while temps below 75* might have slower growth.
Am I supposed to use a humidifier when incubating my jars? No, absolutely not. You do not need or want any humidity in your incubator, this could invite contaminants as they thrive in warm wet places. It is important to have No added humidity in the incubator. Credit to Sungirl69's Archived FAQ
How long will it take my jars to become fully colonized once inoculated with the spore solution? Depending on the size of the jar, anywhere between 14-20 days is common. There are a few rare occasions where the jar may take longer, I have had a jar take as long as 62 days to become fully colonized. The main thing is to be patient and try not to disturb your colonizing jars too much. Credit to Sungirl69's Archived FAQ
When do I harvest my fruits? This is personal preference as much is in this hobby...but most prefer to do as the veil breaks/tears from the cap. You may do this as each individual fruit tears....or you may want to do this as the majority of the fruits have done this....often once the veil breaks and the caps start to "flaten out"....they will start to sporulate....causing a deep purple to black in appearance on the caps and the surface of the substrate....not to be alarmed as this will rinse off under running water and gently rubbing with your finger.
The preferance is largely do to space constrictions amongst the fruits....as to not disturbed a "unripe" fruit....some do so as to avoid the mess spores can cause....and if not washed away before the next flush....can inhibit latter pinsets....HOWEVER.....most people rinse/dunk between flushes and this often doesn't present a problem.
What do i have to do to make my second flush come? Nothing, its going to come anyway if there is sufficient moisture in the sub. but you will have better results, if you dunk your substrate, and re-case.
Do i have to dunk for 24 hours? cant i dunk for less? You could, but if your going to do it, why not do it right?
It's almost time to pick my fruits, how do i dry them? You should lay them out under a fan on low on top of newspaper, or place them in a dehydrator that has a temerature setting. This should take about 3 to 5 days. Then store them in a sealed container with a desiccant such as damprid, or silica gel to suck the last remaining moisture out.
How much will my wet fruits dry to? Usually slightly less the 10% of the wet weight. (200g wet will usually dry to around 18g dry)
What are some possible causes for aborts and how can I prevent them? First flush usually has tons of aborts. just expect it. the second flush will have a few. and the third and forth flushes will have little to none.
How much do I really need to fan daily? 3 times a day at least. (once in the morning. second time after coming home from work/school third time before bed.) fan with the lid of your fruiting chamber its also a good idea to mist if your going to have the lid off.
I think my cake or casing has contamination, Is there anything I can do to stop it? This depends on the type of contamination and the severity of it. The most common types of contamination are cobweb mold and Trichoderma also called green mold. If it is cobweb mold characterized by a fuzzy gray cobweb looking growth then you can make a solution of h2o2 and water and mist the cobweb mold, if caught early enough you may be able to salvage your work. If it is green mold than unfortunately there is really nothing you can do, get rid of the infected cake or casing immediately before it spreads to your other projects. Trying to remove the green mold from the cake or casing is a futile attempt at trying to salvage your work. It is not healthy because it will keep coming back and spreading, and can potentially release mold spores into the air. For more information on contamination check out this link originally posted by Dr.Gonzo: Credit to Sungirl69's Archived FAQ
Commonly asked Questions about Cakes
Is it necessary to dunk my cakes? Yes, if you want a good flush. Mushrooms are about 90% watter and 10% solid matter, so you see how important water is in this equation.
Is it necessary to "cold shock" my cakes? No, but some people do believe it helps initiate pinning when placed in the fruiting chamber due to the temperature difference.
Do I have to roll my cakes in vermiculite after dunking? No, but it does help as a contaminate barrier.
I don't have the time to wait for mushrooms, is it OK to eat my cakes? No, you will get nothing out of it except a stomach ache.
For my second dunk and roll, after my first flush, how long do I need to soak my cakes or do i just dip them in water and roll them in vermiculite (and is this even necessary)? It is not "necessary" you could just mist your cakes, and they will continue right on into the second flush. But for the best performance. dunking and rolling will re-hydrate your myc.
Why are my cakes turning blue after I dunked them? The bluing you see is actually bruising caused by the dunking process. Mycelium contains psilocybin which turns blue when it oxidizes. Mycelium is very sensitive, and easily bruises anytime it experiences stress. The most common reasons for the bruising includes being handled roughly, too dry, or too cold. The main thing to remember is that bruising will not effect the growth process at all. Credit to Sungirl69's Archived FAQ
There is purplish black stuff all over my cakes and fruiting chamber what is it, is it safe? This is what is called sporulation. When a mushroom is allowed to mature fully the veil will break and shortly after the veil breaks the mushroom will attempt to reproduce by dropping spores everywhere. The purplish black stuff is spores. Don't worry it will not affect anything, mushrooms that have spores on them are still ok to consume. And to answer your next question, no the spores that drop in your fruiting chamber will not grow new mushrooms. Credit to Sungirl69's Archived FAQ
Bulk Substrates
When do i shake my jars? do i have to? Shaking isnt necessary but people that shake, shake at 25-30%.This will help speed up the colonization process. BUT others have been burned by jars that get shaken and never recover, and then stall. So shake at your own risk.
How long do i soak my WBS/RYE? 24 hours. any longer and too many of the grains will split during pressure cooking.
Some Fruiting FAQ's
I just placed my cake or casing in the fruiting chamber,how long until it pins? Pin formation can take anywhere from 5-15 days given the proper fruiting conditions. I have seen pins form in as little as 3 days and sometimes take as long as 17 days it really is a variable and there is no exact answer as each grow is different. Credit to Sungirl69's Archived FAQ
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Edited by dankakanat (04/30/11 11:33 AM)
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Mycowlogist
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Registered: 06/29/08
Posts: 534
Loc: in a galaxy far far away....
Last seen: 10 years, 27 days
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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: dankakanat]
#14381548 - 05/01/11 07:22 AM (12 years, 8 months ago) |
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"One post to rule them all, One post to find them, One post to bring them all and in the darkness bind them"
Had to do it! Some of these teks/info can be a little outdated, be careful, but thanks again for the link search.
-------------------- "And in the end, it's not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years." Honest Abe
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