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Invisiblejokefox
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san Pedro . blue m. and brigssi question
    #14110032 - 03/12/11 05:11 PM (12 years, 10 months ago)

Sorry for the mispelt names
But how Do these cacti grow if there topped .
Like if i cut off the tip


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Invisiblekarode13Facebook
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Re: san Pedro . blue m. and brigssi question [Re: jokefox]
    #14110044 - 03/12/11 05:14 PM (12 years, 10 months ago)

They will grow an offshoot or pup from an areole.


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InvisibleDety
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Re: san Pedro . blue m. and brigssi question [Re: jokefox]
    #14110048 - 03/12/11 05:15 PM (12 years, 10 months ago)

General Grafting Stock Species

Although the new expanded introduction at the top of the page provides some good general recommendations, you can find additional information below regarding individual species of grafting stock. If I had to recommend just one type of grafting stock for all types of cactus, it would be any of the more robust taller growing forms of cold hardy Echinocereus coccineus or Echinocereus triglochidiatus. Whenever possible, choose a stock which has open type spination, meaning that the spine clusters which grow from each tubercle are spaced far apart from each other. Open spination type stocks are usually easier to cut and often have more oozing juice upon cutting (which is very desirable).

Cereus: Many of these fast growing species make good grafting stock. The optimum height for grafting stock is between 8 cm to 12 cm tall. C. peruvianus is commonly suggested, although many other fast growing Cereus species can be used, especially those with open type spination.

Echinopsis: Good acceptance of many species, but the root stock is not very resistant to disease, fungus and bug infestations. Usually employed as a temporary graft when nothing better is available.

Echinocereus: Echinocereus coccineus is recommended as a good cold hardy stock, along with the more common Echinocereus triglochidiatus. Echinocereus have a tendency to offset freely and may require more maintenance until the scion gets to a reasonable size. They are an excellent grafting stock for Epithelantha species. Taller robust growing forms with open type spination are an excellent choice when more natural type growth is desired.

Eriocereus (Harrisia) jusbertii: Very universal stock with excellent life span and rot resistance. However, cold hardy scions may look more natural on Opuntia fragilis or any robust growing cold hardy Echinocereus.

Harrisia: The most commonly used species are H. grandiflora and H. jusbertii. These and many other robust, fast growing Harrisia species work well. See comments under Eriocereus.

Hylocereus: Highly recommended stocks for very fast growth and well suited for grafting seedlings or very small young offsets. Sometimes considered a temporary stock for many species unless grown in warmer climates where it has very better longevity in porous soil. If you have a cooler climate, Selenicereus grandiflorus is a better choice for fast scion growth. Whether you use Hylocereus or Selenicereus, best results come from single fully rooted cuttings which are cut to a height of 6 cm to 8 cm. If branching side shoots develop near the base of the grafting stock, let them grow no longer than 6 cm to 8 cm before removing them to use as new cuttings. Any side shoots which start to grow closer to the graft should be removed immediately.

Lemairocereus: (See the Stenocereus section further below).

Myrtillocactus geometrizans: This is probably the safest species to use if you are growing indoors or in milder climates. Very popular and widely recommended, mainly because it is readily available and works well for grafting most species. I use this species frequently, along with more robust forms of Trichocereus bridgesii, Trichocereus peruvianus and Trichocereus werdermannianus for most of my more permanent indoor or mild climate type grafts.

Opuntia: Disease and rot resistant species are best, as long as they are fast growing. Opuntia fragilis is often recommended for grafting cold hardy species. You can use younger Opuntia pads (new shoots) which are cut close to the bottom of the pad, graft scions onto the flat cut surface and then detach the pad 6 to 12 months later to root on its own. Older pads which are still actively growing, but not yet producing a new shoot (new pad) can still be cut very close to the tip and grafted at that point as long as they are juicy upon cutting. Be sure to visit the new excellent web site on Opuntia Compressa as a grafting stock by Valentino Vallicelli of Italy.

Pereskiopsis: A common and temporary grafting stock that produces very fast growth with an increased tendency for the scion to offset freely. A useful stock for very small or young scions. The tips of the young shoots are best for grafting very young seedlings. Because of the thin diameter of the stem, this is a useful stock for many tiny or very young species (including areole grafting which is sometimes called tubercle grafting). "Grafting With Pereskiopsis" by Malcom Burleigh is an excellent article on the subject, just one of many grafting articles in the CSSA publication Special Grafting Issue, vol. 69, #1. Also check out the David Rushforth article for grafting young Ariocarpus seedlings. The same technique can be used with Selenicereus grandiflorus grafting stock when kept in a high humidity environment for up to 10 days after grafting. For more advanced grafting using Pereskiopsis, see the article by by Irina V. Ovchinnikova.

Selenicereus grandiflorus: A useful stock for grafting very small pups or very young seedling scions. Roots quickly from cuttings, especially when the cutting has one or more aerial roots. Aerial roots will form more quickly in a higher humidity enclosure, which will allow the cuttings to grow more quickly after planting. Once the grafted scion becomes larger, it can be degrafted by cutting just above the point of union and allowed to root like a regular cutting. This will allow the degrafted plant to grow on its own roots and begin to take on more of the natural characteristics of the native plant.

Stenocereus: Stenocereus pruinosus (Lemairocereus pruinosus) and Stenocereus victoriensis (Stenocereus griseus) are the most common species and usually available almost anywhere cacti are sold. However, the wider bodied species can have a significant amount of surface shrinkage and are probably best used for grafting offsets rather than seedlings. Taller thinner bodied species are less prone to surface shrinkage and are more suitable for grafting seedlings. Be sure to use adequate pressure upon the scion for proper bonding. Some of the species are sensitive to excess fertilizer, so water only with plain water prior to grafting. Do not use unless they are in an active growth period.

Trichocereus: Many of the open spination types of Trichocereus species work well as fast growing columnar stocks and have a good success rate for lasting a long time. Trichocereus pachanoi (San Pedro Cactus) is commonly suggested as a universal grafting stock. Any of the shorter spined strains of Trichocereus bridgesii or Trichocereus peruvianus will also work just as well or even some faster growing strains of Trichocereus werdermannianus. Trichocereus macrogonus and Trichocereus pasacana are often recommended for colder climates. Scions grafted on Trichocereus might initially take slightly longer to begin their growth burst (when compared to other grafting stocks), but usually have a very good life span of steady fast growth.


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InvisibleDety
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Re: san Pedro . blue m. and brigssi question [Re: Dety]
    #14110062 - 03/12/11 05:17 PM (12 years, 10 months ago)



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Invisiblekarode13Facebook
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Re: san Pedro . blue m. and brigssi question [Re: Dety]
    #14110076 - 03/12/11 05:18 PM (12 years, 10 months ago)

I don't think the question was about grafting but how the cactus grows once topped.


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Invisiblejokefox
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Re: san Pedro . blue m. and brigssi question [Re: Dety]
    #14110085 - 03/12/11 05:20 PM (12 years, 10 months ago)

So will they colomn out. Like of you top weed it bushes

The reason i ask is a peyote san Pedro graft dident
work and the Pedro shoot out two pups and i want
To know what they will do

The one peyote graft that did with is growing faster then
i could have dreamed


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InvisibleDety
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Re: san Pedro . blue m. and brigssi question [Re: Dety]
    #14110091 - 03/12/11 05:21 PM (12 years, 10 months ago)

Here is another Link for ya with lots of good info on grafting and such.

Hope this helps. :thumbup:


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Invisiblekarode13Facebook
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Re: san Pedro . blue m. and brigssi question [Re: jokefox]
    #14110098 - 03/12/11 05:22 PM (12 years, 10 months ago)

Quote:

The reason i ask is a peyote san Pedro graft dident
work and the Pedro shoot out two pups and i want
To know what they will do





The pups will continue to grow into single columns. Once they get large enough you can chop them off, callus and replant.


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Invisiblejokefox
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Re: san Pedro . blue m. and brigssi question [Re: karode13]
    #14110199 - 03/12/11 05:41 PM (12 years, 10 months ago)

Since we have all the grafters here can i graft
A peyote to a Pedro to a blue m. Or is there a limit
what about Pedro .blue m then Pedro and so on back and forth

So back to my actual question
Quote:

karode13 said:
Quote:

The reason i ask is a peyote san Pedro graft dident
work and the Pedro shoot out two pups and i want
To know what they will do





The pups will continue to grow into single columns. Once they get large enough you can chop them off, callus and replant.




If i leave them can i keep topping to branch it
Or will these pups Need to be cut


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Invisiblekarode13Facebook
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Re: san Pedro . blue m. and brigssi question [Re: jokefox]
    #14110259 - 03/12/11 05:53 PM (12 years, 10 months ago)

Quote:

can i graft
A peyote to a Pedro to a blue m. Or is there a limit
what about Pedro .blue m then Pedro and so on back and forth




In theory, yes.

I wouldn't know why you'd want to as it wouldn't speed up growth but I suppose bragging rights are enough.



Quote:

If i leave them can i keep topping to branch it
Or will these pups Need to be cut





Yes you can but this would slow the growth down considerably and I don't see the point. You would be best to wait for those pups to get to a good size before you remove them to propagate. The main plant will send out more pups once these are removed.


Topping columnar cactus can be a good way to get multiple pups from the one plant but not always. They can just put out single pups once topped which is a letdown. More often than not you get at least Two.


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Invisiblejokefox
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Re: san Pedro . blue m. and brigssi question [Re: karode13]
    #14110300 - 03/12/11 06:01 PM (12 years, 10 months ago)

Quote:

karode13 said:
Quote:

can i graft
A peyote to a Pedro to a blue m. Or is there a limit
what about Pedro .blue m then Pedro and so on back and forth




In theory, yes.

I wouldn't know why you'd want to as it wouldn't speed up growth but I suppose bragging rights are enough.



Quote:

If i leave them can i keep topping to branch it
Or will these pups Need to be cut





Yes you can but this would slow the growth down considerably and I don't see the point. You would be best to wait for those pups to get to a good size before you remove them to propagate. The main plant will send out more pups once these are removed.


Topping columnar cactus can be a good way to get multiple pups from the one plant but not always. They can just put out single pups once topped which is a letdown. More often than not you get at least Two.




Thanks that answered it all

And where do i look about trasplanting pups and such


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Invisiblekarode13Facebook
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Re: san Pedro . blue m. and brigssi question [Re: jokefox]
    #14110367 - 03/12/11 06:15 PM (12 years, 10 months ago)

If you mean how to get them to grow roots. Try here


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Invisiblejokefox
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Re: san Pedro . blue m. and brigssi question [Re: karode13]
    #14110860 - 03/12/11 07:37 PM (12 years, 10 months ago)

Sweet. Thanks bro


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