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OfflineBlueLightRain
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Re: Oysters not pinning [Re: randy420rhoads]
    #14075327 - 03/06/11 12:08 PM (12 years, 11 months ago)

Nice Tapatio! Nice pins too, of course. Looks like you have some aborts at the bottom of the cake, and a couple of happy clusters fruiting from the middle region. I'm not sure how much nutrition those clusters have but looks like they can mature a bit more. Enjoy!


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Offlinerandy420rhoads
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Re: Oysters not pinning [Re: BlueLightRain]
    #14075391 - 03/06/11 12:23 PM (12 years, 11 months ago)

I sure hope so the biggest isn't even the size of my pinky! They should have plenty i'd assume being the first flush from a dunked cake. How can you tell they're aborts I think they're still growing.

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OfflineBlueLightRain
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Re: Oysters not pinning [Re: randy420rhoads]
    #14075468 - 03/06/11 12:41 PM (12 years, 11 months ago)

Yeah I hope they are still growing. They just have that appearance most aborts get from my experience. Please do tell if they develop more! I recommend taking some spore prints from your mature oyster mushrooms so you can start again.

If those cakes were inoculated with spore syringes then each cake may have anywhere from 1 to 1000 strains, each competing for a section of nutrients. The one that is fruiting probably has the largest territory of the cake. The advantage of isolating strains is that you give one strain an entire block of nutrients from which to grow, hence larger and more abundant fruits.


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Offlinerandy420rhoads
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Re: Oysters not pinning [Re: BlueLightRain]
    #14075816 - 03/06/11 02:13 PM (12 years, 11 months ago)

Wow did not know that. Greedy bastards don't share lol....



How long should I let it go before printing, How do you tell when it's no mature since there is no veil?

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OfflineBlueLightRain
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Re: Oysters not pinning [Re: randy420rhoads]
    #14076398 - 03/06/11 04:33 PM (12 years, 11 months ago)

Hmmm...To be certain I would say wait until the cap starts to make wrinkles or folds in the margin. If you've waited too long you'll probably still get some prints and if you pick it too soon you'll probably still get prints. You don't need a heavy spore load to have success making new strains but more spores from which to draw always helps. Oysters eject tons of spores for just about their entire fruiting cycle.

If you place your oysters over a dark colored table or paper you'll see it becoming covered with a cream, gray, or lilac film. Those are spores! I came home to my first batch absolutely coating my entire kitchen counter. It turned from white tile to gray tile.


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Offlinerandy420rhoads
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Re: Oysters not pinning [Re: BlueLightRain]
    #14076474 - 03/06/11 04:47 PM (12 years, 11 months ago)

I always liked knocking up jars with spore solution but I guess that would be stupid to continue to do. Just have to practice with the agar i'm not sure if mine is still good or if I need to order more...whole last (and my very first) batch of plates was trash.

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Re: Oysters not pinning [Re: randy420rhoads]
    #14076526 - 03/06/11 04:56 PM (12 years, 11 months ago)

I'm wondering if my agar wasn't sterile , or even if it was if it is now. I'm going to use it in jars instead of plates. I didn't have any sort of tape sealing the last batch of plates do you think that's why they all had contams? The loose lids?


I'm about the try the agar in 1/2 pints now would it be better to use the regular metal can lids or the plastic ones? I know the plastic are better for gas exchange but do I want that with agar too?

Edited by randy420rhoads (03/06/11 05:13 PM)

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OfflineBlueLightRain
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Re: Oysters not pinning [Re: randy420rhoads]
    #14079359 - 03/07/11 01:37 AM (12 years, 11 months ago)

There are a lot of questions to be answered, and in time you'll know what to do. I'll try and help along the way. First off, you have a bunch of time between when the oyster is ready to harvest, when your prints are made, and when it's time to make some cultures. Once the prints are made you can save and utilize them within a year, and reports have been made that prints have been utilized for several years after they were made. Once the prints are made there is no reason to rush the process. Consider the tortoise versus the hare.

My point is that because you have all of this time, now is a great opportunity to do some research. I'd like to see some pictures of your agar plates that were completely messed up. If you don't have any available can you describe them? Were they covered in streaks of pastel colored ooze? Or did they have symmetrical, circular growths? Description is key here because it will tell you what you are battling.

I've found when it comes to pouring and transferring agar a zen state of mind is necessary. When I'm in a hurry and I want it done as quickly as possible most often I cause contaminated plates. If I'm focused and careful my success rate is reassuring.

There is an easy fix to the fact that you don't have tape for your agar plates. When I first started I didn't have a lot of money to spend on the hobby so I discovered Flat Twine (the 2 inch wide variety), sold at Ace hardware, and probably several other stores, worked perfectly well to wrap plates. It stretches, allows the fungus to breathe, and sticks to itself. If you use plastic petri plates it works even more because it adheres to the plastic very well. Best of all, its cheap ($6-$7USD) for something like 170 feet versus parafilm which does the same thing but can be 3 to 5 times as expensive based on price and shipping and handling.

What kind of laboratory setup do you have? What does your glove box look like? Is it made out of plastic, cardboard, or some other material? How do you clean it, and how do you clean your tools? If you want to expand you ability to make mushrooms I highly recommend taking the time to sit down and do some research. What kind of recipe are you using for your agar? How do you sterilize it?

If you don't want to buy a sleeve of plastic petri plates, consider buying baby food jars like I did. At about 55 cents a piece, they did the job, they are fit for a pressure cooker, and they seal. They have disadvantages though: the inability to look directly down on your media, and the lack of surface area compared to a petri plate.

Yes you can use canning jars as your agar surface. You could simply pour a minute amount of agar into a few jars. Once you sterilize them allow them to cool on their side, then make careful transfers. This is a big use of space though, hence why petri plates are standard and most advantageous.

It's easy to get caught up in the rush of making more mushrooms but by making a plan and following through with care and quality you have the ability to make a whole lot more. Your most important step is making prints on aluminum foil within a container, which is as close to sterile as you'll get for prints, without an elaborate setup.

Take some prints and eat and enjoy the rest of the fruits of your labor!


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Offlinerandy420rhoads
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Re: Oysters not pinning [Re: BlueLightRain]
    #14080957 - 03/07/11 01:03 PM (12 years, 11 months ago)

The contam on my dishes was circual symetrical growth of clear slime. I can upload pics if you'd like but they are all trash. I started over and poured agar into 1/2 pints then resterilized jar and agar so shouldn't have any problems there. I think i'll just use jars from now on because I have a mini fridge with about 100 in it and they just take up that space empty anyway. Plus I never use more than a few seeing as I hope to get into rye gran in filter patch spawn bags. Jars just seem safer to me and the space is not an issue.


My gloves box is a clear rubbermaid container with 2 holes on one side in wich I put plastic PVC pipe for armholes and duct taped the heavy duty rubber cleaning gloves. On the other side I have another hole cover in duct tape I can open to pass a flame sterilized needle back and forth through should I happen to be using the pf tek. But for most things( Like agar) it's completely sealed off from and outside air.

The jars I poured yesterday apear to be free from contams. Since rye is so cheap and I have a bunch of bags... After I harvest and take prints could I crumble a spent pf cake into a bag as spawn just to kill time and mess around while i'm taking the tortoise approach.


I definately want to do it the slow way isolate a good strain to grow much better but in the mean time i'm getting hungry for whatever I can eat... :smile:

Edited by randy420rhoads (03/07/11 01:24 PM)

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OfflineBlueLightRain
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Re: Oysters not pinning [Re: randy420rhoads]
    #14084384 - 03/07/11 11:33 PM (12 years, 11 months ago)

Quote:

randy420rhoads said:
The jars I poured yesterday apear to be free from contams. Since rye is so cheap and I have a bunch of bags... After I harvest and take prints could I crumble a spent pf cake into a bag as spawn just to kill time and mess around while i'm taking the tortoise approach.



Yes and no. If the oysters were grown 100% in vitro without any exposure to air, then yes if you transfer them in a sterile glove box. Generally no though because you've already exposed your pf cake to the air, which means millions of mold spores have descended up on it, which when mixed around on your grain will germinate and contaminate the substrate.

Yeah the little slime spots on your agar appear to be bacteria.

If the ceiling of your glove box is tall enough, I have suggestion for you. Drill a hole about 1/2 inch to 1 inch in diameter in the ceiling and stuff it really good with some polyfil that you've soaked in hydrogen peroxide. You only need to soak it once to eliminate any dwelling contaminant spores that may descend upon your work area. Drill this hole directly above the area where your alcohol lamp will be so that when the lamp is burning it allows gas to escape through the polyfill. Caution, though, if the ceiling is too low then you will melt the polyfil, potentially make a mess, or even worse a fire.

The point of doing this is to allow you to sterilize your scalpel inside the glove box, which means you won't have to move it in and out of your glove box (which is what I picked up from your description of your transfer sessions - if I understood you correctly?) If the ceiling is too low, I recommend hunting for a larger plastic container or even using one that is wide and turning it on its side, as long as the side gives you enough work space surface area. The idea is to keep your work tools, instruments, and media all within the sterile environment.

Also - on your agar and jars...it's a great way to do it if you have the space, since you'll be able to sterilize the agar within the jar and allow it to cool on its side (or upright if they are shallow) without ever exposing it to air (until you make transfers). This might be overkill but I sterilize my batches of agar for 45 minutes on 15psi. Never had contaminant issues. I've heard other people doing it for 20 minutes. I haven't tested that, but I've found 45 minutes works, and it's really not an extensive period of time.


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