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 TheEggman
Mind-expandingStudent
Registered: 01/30/03
Posts: 143
Loc: Central California
Last seen: 20 years, 9 months
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 Growing P.azurescens 
#1380246 - 03/16/03 06:52 AM (22 years, 9 months ago) |
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http://www.sunshine.net/www/1700/sn1730/pscyangg.htm
Once the substrate is cut into marble-sized balls, placed into the deep plastic tray, and covered with cardboard (in step 15), where should the tray be put? It is covered with saran wrap to prevent evaporation while allowing gas exchange. Should I place the tray in a dark location? A location with filtered sunlight? A location with 12 hours of direct sunlight?
Any help (and/or explanation) would be greatly appreciated.
Peace and love,
Tim.
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Peace and love,
Tim.
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CockyMandrill
addict
Registered: 01/31/03
Posts: 404
Last seen: 21 years, 11 months
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 Re: Growing P.azurescens [Re: TheEggman]
#1380332 - 03/16/03 07:17 AM (22 years, 9 months ago) |
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It doesn't need any light. Just leave it somewhere with moderate temperatures (id guess around 70) until the cardboard gets colonized.
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 woodrow
journeyman
Registered: 03/17/03
Posts: 142
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Re: Growing P.azurescens [Re: TheEggman]
#1393563 - 03/19/03 11:39 PM (22 years, 8 months ago) |
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A good method is to put several layers of moist cardboard at the bottom of the tray. These serve as a resivor for moisture and let the mycelium colonize both upward and down. They also let the spawn layer drain. If the spawn becomes too wet, it will quickly turn funky and this can be fatal. When the mycelium grows through the cardboard cover, add your wood chips and cover with another layer of moist cardboard. It is best to add the wood chips in several thin layers rather than all at once. A sheet of plastic over the tray is good for keeping the moisture in and insects out. Light is only necessary when you want to induce fruiting. The colonized wood can be used to make an outdoor bed but I prefer to colonize the wood right from the start in a deep container, such as a styrofoam box, and simply move the box outside and use it as a fruiting chamber. Just remove the cardboard cover and case with a thin later of peat moss or bark chips. I have found this method works and fruiting is possible even in warm weather.
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comario2
amateur
Registered: 09/06/02
Posts: 1,352
Loc: between places
Last seen: 12 years, 10 months
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Re: Growing P.azurescens [Re: woodrow]
#1394045 - 03/20/03 03:28 AM (22 years, 8 months ago) |
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woodrow, that's interesting, how warm? could you provide more details, please?
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comario
"crusaders against emotional poverty"
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Suntzu
Geek
Registered: 10/14/99
Posts: 1,396
Last seen: 2 months, 1 day
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Re: Growing P.azurescens [Re: TheEggman]
#1394477 - 03/20/03 05:51 AM (22 years, 8 months ago) |
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Both azures and cyans do well with the fred meyer aspen shavings; I've never had to pressure cook it, simply boil for an hour or so, drain well. This colonized in less than two weeks with one quart of birdseed spawn. This is multispore azurescens; It doesn't fruit readily on shavings alone, but this is a great way to build up spawn for outdoor chip beds.
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comario2
amateur
Registered: 09/06/02
Posts: 1,352
Loc: between places
Last seen: 12 years, 10 months
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Re: Growing P.azurescens [Re: Suntzu]
#1394489 - 03/20/03 05:56 AM (22 years, 8 months ago) |
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hi sunzu,
you proved that aspen shavings work fine to build up azure spawn. what about fruiting? any luck going from aspen to outdoor woodchip beds?
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comario
"crusaders against emotional poverty"
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Suntzu
Geek
Registered: 10/14/99
Posts: 1,396
Last seen: 2 months, 1 day
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Re: Growing P.azurescens [Re: comario2]
#1394515 - 03/20/03 06:05 AM (22 years, 8 months ago) |
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Finding good woodchips is something that has been difficult. This is the only pic I have uploaded from the cyans that grew straight from the shavings laid outside, a thin layer of soil overtop:
Same thing with these azures. . .
They need sizeable woodchips; Combined with the right environment, of course . It's not looking great for finding any good chips this year either 
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Anonymous
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Re: Growing P.azurescens [Re: Suntzu]
#1403860 - 03/23/03 03:27 PM (22 years, 8 months ago) |
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I know this is a dumb question: But do these methods assume outdoor cultivation, or can azures be grown indoors. Sorry for bringing down the intellectual value of this thread
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Racer6908
Intemediatecultivator
Registered: 03/23/03
Posts: 19
Last seen: 20 years, 6 months
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Re: Growing P.azurescens [Re: Anonymous]
#1404196 - 03/23/03 05:42 PM (22 years, 8 months ago) |
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Ok look I've checked everywhere on this site for a thread relating to my question by couldn't find one, my question is: If I was to get 2 ultrasonic humidifiers or maybe 3 well however many I need and am using 3ft. X 2ft X 1.5ft. tupperwares as terriums after the initial innoculation and pinning how many 1/2 pint cakes would I need to produce a 1/2lb or so of dry mushrooms every 2 weeks. Me and a friend of mine have experimented with smaller amounts but have recently found the need to grow in bulk conditions but need to keep a low profile (thus the easily hidden tupperwares.) plus that methods we are using now seems to work GREAT and produce rapidly. Please give me all the information and ideas possible. Thanks. You can e-mail me at Racer6908@aol.com if you need to, actually I would prefer it so I could check it out more often. Thanks again.
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If It can grow in nature, than it's not a Drug.
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Racer6908
Intemediatecultivator
Registered: 03/23/03
Posts: 19
Last seen: 20 years, 6 months
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Re:HELP HAVE QUESTIONS BUT NO ANSWERS..... [Re: Anonymous]
#1404200 - 03/23/03 05:43 PM (22 years, 8 months ago) |
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Ok look I've checked everywhere on this site for a thread relating to my question by couldn't find one, my question is: If I was to get 2 ultrasonic humidifiers or maybe 3 well however many I need and am using 3ft. X 2ft X 1.5ft. tupperwares as terriums after the initial innoculation and pinning how many 1/2 pint cakes would I need to produce a 1/2lb or so of dry mushrooms every 2 weeks. Me and a friend of mine have experimented with smaller amounts but have recently found the need to grow in bulk conditions but need to keep a low profile (thus the easily hidden tupperwares.) plus that methods we are using now seems to work GREAT and produce rapidly. Please give me all the information and ideas possible. Thanks. You can e-mail me at Racer6908@aol.com if you need to, actually I would prefer it so I could check it out more often. Thanks again.
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If It can grow in nature, than it's not a Drug.
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woodrow
journeyman
Registered: 03/17/03
Posts: 142
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Re: Growing P.azurescens [Re: comario2]
#1404425 - 03/23/03 07:33 PM (22 years, 8 months ago) |
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How warm? I incubated my azures at 85 to 95 degrees and fruited them by moving the styrofoam incubation containers outside for both exposure to light and coldshock. I coldshocked them by exposing the beds to the cool night air and was able to get successful fruitings in August two years in a row. The lowest temps for the cold shock periods were 68 one year and 72 the next. Daily high temps for the same period were often over 100. This was done in a desert climate where the low humidity makes true outdoor beds impossible.
My original intention was to have winter and summer shrooms that could be cultivated using the ambient temps of an outdoor shed. I chose to grow Cambodians because they thrive at high temps and azurescens because they do well in the cold. I started by growing both on dog food agar and they grew equally fast at 85 degrees. Later I grew them at different temperatures on grain. Wheat and WBS. Neither one did well at 75 degrees but they really took off when the temps were anywhere between 85 and 100. There were some cultural differences. The azures were more rhizomorphic and strongly bluing but, as for growth rates, I could not tell one from another. As a result, azurescens became my summer shroom and this is why the high incubation temps. I have read that azures do not grow well on grain, their optimum incubation temp is about 75 degrees, they are not fast growers, and they need 50 degree temps for fruiting. I have not found any of these to be true. I wonder if anyone else has had similar experiences?
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Anno
Experimenter
Registered: 06/17/99
Posts: 24,168
Loc: my room
Last seen: 2 months, 3 days
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Re: Growing P.azurescens [Re: woodrow]  1
#1404511 - 03/23/03 08:59 PM (22 years, 8 months ago) |
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Are you sure your azures were really P. azurescens?
You wouldn?t be the first who accidentally grew P. cubensis instead (including me one time...)
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shaggy101
Registered: 08/16/00
Posts: 1,816
Loc: ..still waiting for godot
Last seen: 12 years, 8 months
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Re: Growing P.azurescens [Re: Anno]
#1404552 - 03/23/03 09:56 PM (22 years, 8 months ago) |
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wow man growing Azures..Its time for me to come home
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woodrow
journeyman
Registered: 03/17/03
Posts: 142
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Re: Growing P.azurescens [Re: Anno]
#1404560 - 03/23/03 10:12 PM (22 years, 8 months ago) |
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The azure spores came from Ralph's FSR so I have some question as to their ID. The donor said they were collected from the wild. They had much the same shape as the Cambodians but the stems were a mottled cream and tan color and the caps were exactly the same color as the stems. They had a slight reddish color when grown on bark chips and appeared to take up some of the color from the bark. The caps were occasionally umbilliform. They grew well on wood chips, bark chips, and pine cones. They were extremely rhizomorphic on wood and some of the mycelia even looked like kite string. I was able to take colonized wood and use the wood to colonize more wood (unpasteurized) and then use that to colonize even more wood (and on and on) so they were true wood lovers.
Is there a key for ID'ing P. azurescens? I have never been able to find one.
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Anno
Experimenter
Registered: 06/17/99
Posts: 24,168
Loc: my room
Last seen: 2 months, 3 days
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Re: Growing P.azurescens [Re: woodrow] 2
#1404591 - 03/23/03 10:52 PM (22 years, 8 months ago) |
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>Is there a key for ID'ing P. azurescens?
From
http://www.tacethno.com/info/psilocybe/astoria.txt
"Macroscopic Features:
Pileus 30-100mm in diameter, conic to convex, expanding to broadly convex and
eventually flattening with age with a pronounced, persistent broad umbo;
surface smooth, viscous when moist, covered by a separable gelatinous
pellicle; chestnut to ochraceous brown to caramel in color often becoming
pitted with dark blue or bluish black zones, hygrophanous, fading to light
straw color in drying, strongly bruising blue when damaged; margin even,
sometimes irregular and eroded at maturity, slightly incurved at first, soon
decurved, flattening with maturity, translucent striate and often leaving a
fibrillose annular zone in the upper regions of the stem. Lamellae ascending,
sinuate to adnate, brown, often stained info-black where injured, close,
with two tiers of lamellulae, mottled, edges withish. Spore-print dark
purplish brown to purplish black in mass. Stipe 90-200mm long by 3-6mm thick,
silky white, dingy brown from the base or in age, hollow at maturity.
Composed of twisted, cartilaginous tissue. Base of stem thickening downwards,
often curved, and characterized by coarse white aerial tufts of mycelium,
often with azure tones. Mycelium surrounding stipe base densely rhizomorphic,
silky white, tenaciously holding the wood-chips together, strongly bruising
bluish upon disturbance. Odor none to slightly farinaceous. Taste extremely
bitter.
Microscopic Features:
Clamp connections abundant. Ixocutis gelatinous, hyaline hyphae, 1.5 - 5.5um
in diameter. Sub-pellis a brownish band, more highly pigmented than pileal
trama. Lamellar trama regular, composed of hyphae 5 - 15 um in diameter,
slightly encrusted with brown pigments; subhumenium a subcellular compact
layer, 10um thick. Pileal trama 5 - 15um thick. Pleurocystidia abundant,
fusoid-ventricose, tapering to a narrow but short neck, bluntly papillate,
23-35 x 9-10 um. Cheilocystidia forming a nongelatinized sterile band, nearly
identical to pleurocystidia measuring 23-28 x 6.5-8.0 um. Basidia 4-spored,
measuring 27-30.5 x 6.3-7.2 um. Spores 12-13.5 x 6.5-8.0 um, rich reddish
brown in KOH and light purplish vinaceous in aqeous ammoniacal solutions.
Wall thickness less than 1 um. Caulocystidia abundant above the annular zone
and similar to pleurocystidia but thicker walled and more irregular,
measuring 43um long with undulated necks. Cortial hyphae on stipe slightly
thickened, almost subgelatinized walls, 3 - 5 um in diameter with clamps and
brown intra-perital pigment. Caulocystidia absent below annular zone. Tissue
notably awash with bluish tones."
       
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ATWAR
Connoisseur
Registered: 01/26/03
Posts: 1,640
Loc: #108768 in line...
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 Re: Growing P.azurescens [Re: woodrow]
#1404593 - 03/23/03 10:54 PM (22 years, 8 months ago) |
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If you have a warm fruiting P. Azurescens, then is there any way you would like to get off a print? Interesting that they fruited at much higher than normal temperatures.
I am with anno on this one, are you absolutely sure they are P. Azures? Somehow I do not think they are.
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To give is to live...
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Anno
Experimenter
Registered: 06/17/99
Posts: 24,168
Loc: my room
Last seen: 2 months, 3 days
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Re: Growing P.azurescens [Re: woodrow]
#1404631 - 03/23/03 11:27 PM (22 years, 8 months ago) |
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>They had much the same shape as the Cambodians
Did they have a veil?
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mjshroomer
Sage
Registered: 07/21/99
Posts: 13,774
Loc: gone with my shrooms
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Re: Growing P.azurescens [Re: woodrow]
#1404941 - 03/24/03 04:19 AM (22 years, 8 months ago) |
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That would be corregated cardboard.l You have to separate the cardboard and open it in half. than use those layers.
mj
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mjshroomer
Sage
Registered: 07/21/99
Posts: 13,774
Loc: gone with my shrooms
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Re: Growing P.azurescens [Re: mjshroomer]
#1404968 - 03/24/03 04:37 AM (22 years, 8 months ago) |
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ANd here is a large cluster of P. cyanescens on the left and P. azurescens on the right
Color is a little off becasue of lighting.
and a close-up of that large cluster of P. cyanescens. This was a man made patch in a publich place in Astoria, Oregon.
That large cluster ewweighed over three pounds fresh.
mjshroomer
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deanofmean
mycophagous
Registered: 12/06/02
Posts: 2,017
Loc: PNW
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Re: Growing P.azurescens [Re: mjshroomer]
#1405197 - 03/24/03 06:20 AM (22 years, 8 months ago) |
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Quote:
That would be corregated cardboard.l You have to separate the cardboard and open it in half. than use those layers.
mj
i have found that shredded egg cartons work much better . it colonizes faster then grain .
when the cardboard is colonized, mix it in wood chips 1:5 and it takes off .
no grain or sawdust is needed .
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