MAGIC LIQUEUR - the ultimate trip - update Many years ago PF experimented with alcohol extraction of dried magic shroom material. To make the story short, PF found the crystals. But, PF didn't mention that when PF wrote the PF mushroom extraction tek and puplished it in the PF TEK book (1996) and posted it at this website. EXTRACTION - included below
PF has monitored the WEB for all of these years and has seen no posts concerning this amazingly easy way to extract and seriously concentrate the shrooms magic. PF has always said that this extraction tek solves the "problems" of impotent or mediocre magic shrooms.
Then, finally, this post appeared at the MYCOTOPIA interactive myco hobbiest web site:
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SEARCHER By Searcher (Novice) on Saturday, November 16, 2002 - 06:29 pm: Edit
My most exciting piece of beginner's luck came when I got rid of some cakes that seemed stalled in their development (and/or had really uneven surface colonization) by splitting up and drying the mycelium for use in place of mushroom dust to create the liquer described in the following link:
http://www.fanaticus.com/liqueu~1.htm
By letting the resulting liquer continue to dry out, I wound up with amber colored crystals that could be crushed and placed in gel caps. A few hundred milligrams of this extract sent a curious fruend of mine into orbit, and now he's been bugging the shit out of me to butcher ALL of my cakes to concentrate on this extract and forget about trying to grow shrooms. He claims the trips he got were much "cleaner" (whatever that means) and that the stuff certainly tastes better than the shrooms themselves.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- By Searcher (Novice) on Monday, November 18, 2002 - 05:05 am: Edit As I recall, there were about 6 or 7 jarsthat seemed to have good mycelial development, but colonization was very uneven, or so slow, that I abandoned them to put better jars in my grow chamber. Rather than just tossing out the slow jars, I decided to break them up and try Prof PF's extraction technique. By the way, the alcohol seemed to absorb a lot of water from the air - it no longer smelled of alcohol, and the drying process slowed down a lot just before the amber tar and then the crystals appeared. I used no heat, but kept a large fan blowing on the liquid over a large, shallow cookie sheet.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- By Searcher (Novice) on Tuesday, November 26, 2002 - 12:53 pm: Edit Behold, cystals - little white snowflakes - just using 99% isopropyl---
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- By Searcher (Novice) on Sunday, December 08, 2002 - 02:55 pm: Edit Here are the results from my first methanol soak:
Yielded 3.85 grams of crystals from 8 ounces of mycelium. But wait, there's more! Remember we're doing three, consecutive soaks. Looks like we'll be getting even more residues out of soaks 2 & 3:
Miscellaneous notes on the methanol: You'll note that this residue us lighter in color than residue gleaned from the water soaks. Also, this residue comes out dryer - no intermediate "tar" stage.
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GOTTLIEB Then, after a little interaction at MYCOTOPIA web site, PF found this extraction tek taken from a book by Adam Gottlieb at the EROWID web site.
THE PSILOCYBIN PRODUCERS GUIDE by Adam Gottlieb 1976
EXTRACTION
Crumble and pulverize the dried mycelial material and combine each 100 mg of this material with 10 ml of methanol. Place the flask in a hot water bath for four hours. Filter the liquids with suction through a filter paper in a buchner funnel with Celite to prevent clogging. Collect and save the filtrate liquids. Heat the slurry (the mush in the filter paper) two more times in methanol as before, filter, and accumulate the liquids of the three extractions. To be certain that all of the alkaloids have been extracted do a small extraction with a portion of the used slurry and test with Keller's reagent (glacial acetic acid, ferrous chloride, and concentrated sulfuric acid). If there is a violet indication, alkaloids are still present and further extraction is in order.
In an open beaker evaporate the liquids to total dryness with a hot water bath or by applying a hair dryer. Be certain that all traces of methanol have been removed. The remaining residue should contain 25-50 percent psilocybin/psilocin mixture. Greater purification can be achieved, but would require other solvents and chromatography equipment and is hardly necessary.
Each 100 grams of dried mycelium should yield about 2 grams of extracted material. This should contain at least 500 mg of psilocybin/psilocin mixed or about fifty 10 mg doses. Theoretically psilocin should have the same effect upon the user as psilocybin. The only difference between the two is that the later has a phosphate bond which disappears immediately after assimilation in the body. In other words, in the body psilocybin turns into psilocin. Psilocybin is a fairly stable compound, but psilocin is very susceptible to oxidization. It is best to keep the extracted material in a dry air tight container under refrigeration. A sack of silica-gel can be placed in the container to capture any moisture that may enter.
DOSAGE
The standard dose of psilocybin or psilocin for a 150 lb person is a 6-20 mg dose. We will figure the average dose as 10 mg. The crude alkaloid extraction process given here yields a brownish crystalline powder that is at least 25 percent pure. Each mason jar should contain at least 50 grams of wet mycelium. After drying this would be about 5 grams of material. The crude material extracted from this should contain 25-30 mg of psilocybin/ psilocin or roughly 2-3 hits. This yield may very to some extent depending upon several factors. Many of these species contain less of these alkaloids than dose Psilocybe cubensis and the alkaloidal content of this species may very in different strains. Cultivation conditions have alot to do with yield too. Higher temperatures (75 degrees F.) cause more rapid growth but lesser psilocybin content than do lower temperatures (70 degrees F.) One must test each new batch of extracted material to determine the proper distribution of dosages. Depending on the potency of the mycelia and how well the extraction was conducted the dose may range between 25 and 100 mg. Also bear in mind that the dose varies for different individuals.
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STAMETS Paul Stamets even mentions extraction in his 1996 book - "PSILOCYBIN MUSHROOMS of the WORLD". Quote - page 50-51 "Another method I have seen is to soak crushed mushrooms in 75+% ethanol. AFter two to three days, the roughage can be filtered, leaving a dark- blue elixir that can be decanted accordingly. For every fresh 5 grams of mushrooms, 25-30 milliliters of alcohol is recommended. Psilocybin and psilocin dissolve into this solven, and the alcohol also acts as a preservative. I really don't have much experience with this technique, but have talked to people who say it is their preferred method. SOme call this "blue juice."
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Stamets tek is not very good for several reasons. He says to start with "fresh" shrooms. It is always the best way to first dry the material to be extracted. Water gets in the way of the solvent. "BLUE" is not good either. Blueing is evidence of the magic being broken down or compromised. I think it is the "fresh" material that does that. Dried material does not blue. Blueing is damage and occurs with bruising of the shroom flesh. Stamets again says on page 56 - "...the more the mushrooms are bruised (blued) the less potent they become."
But what is important about the Stamets quotes, is that he knows people that believe extraction is the superiour way to go for the magic.
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MEDIOCRE RATING FOR CUBENSIS The only criticism that has ever been directed towards the Psilcobye Cubensis specie is "On the psilometric scale of comparative potency, P.Cubensis gets a rating of "moderately potent," - P. Stamets. That is not the best. And it seems, that potency is the number one goal of all the seekers, accept the new cadre of shroom growers on the web that are more interested in the hobby of mushroom growing than any magic production. This extraction technique is the answer to the serious seekers of the magic. What PF would recommend is to extract with easy to get liquor store 190 proof ethanol, and make magic shroom liqueurs and elixers. The advantage of the liqueur is that it is a good way to preserve the magic cyrstals. Exposing magic crystals to the air is a quick way to breakdown. But in a freezer in an elixir of alcohol, the magic crystals can certainly last a lot longer. This way delivers potency far far beyond any natural magic shroom. When one considers the extract magic in doses of around .1 - .3 gram, no magic shroom can deliver that, unless extracted. So that puts the lowly Psilocybe Cubensis to the top, because of its one really great attribute - THE EASIEST TO GROW - by far.
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PF TEK mushroom liqueur extraction This technique describes how to extract psilocybin from magic mushrooms with pure 190 proof ethyl alcohol and make a magic mushroom liqueur of concentrated psilocybin to effect a powerful psychedelic dose as potent as desired. The entire process involves only the shrooms and alcohol. The alcohol is untainted with chemicals and poisons because it can be easily acquired from a liquor store (United States) either over the counter (in some states) or with a special permit (most states - see end of article section - "procuring 200 proof ethyl alcohol from a liquor store").
ALCOHOL EXTRACTION 1. Acquire quality psilocybe cubensis shrooms (harvested before or just as the veils open and cool dried with desiccant). The more shrooms used in the beginning, the more potent the concentration can be when finished. Use at least several grams of dried shroom material to make the process worthwhile and effective. The shrooms need to be thoroughly dry (rock hard) to allow pulverization. To pulverize the shrooms, put them into a small strong zip lock plastic bag (freezer bag), cover the bag with a magazine (for protection of the bag) and pound it with the rubber heel of a large shoe. After pulverization, pour the shroom material into a bottle that has a tight fitting leak proof cap. Add enough alcohol to cover the shroom material to make a loose slurry. Shake the bottle well and let it sit for 24 hours. Shake it now and then to activate the extraction.
2. After 24 hours of soaking, filter off the alcohol. Inexpensive dust-pollen masks make excellent filters for the slurry. These are available at hardware, drug and paint stores. They are usually white or tan colored, fit over the nose and mouth and are held on to the face by a rubber band attached to the filter. Fashion the filter over the mouth of a drinking glass. Shake up the bottle of slurry, and pour some slurry into the filter. Squeeze the filter and slurry to extract the alcohol. There are many details to deal with, but doing it once reveals them all. Experience is the best teacher. Store the extracted alcohol in a fresh bottle.
3. Retrieve the shroom material from the filters and resoak the extracted shroom material with fresh alcohol and repeat steps 1 and 2 (secondary filtration and reclamation).
EVAPORATION AND CONCENTRATION Combine the alcohol extracts into a glass. Place a small electric fan (small desk clip on fans are perfect) near the glass and point the air flow directly down into the glass until the surface of the alcohol ripples. This will speed the evaporation and concentration. The process will take several hours. The more alcohol extract - the longer the evaporation time. As the alcohol evaporates and the level recedes down into the glass, wash the residue that adheres to the inside of the glass back into the solution. Any fumes that are generated will be harmless because the alcohol is a non poisonous drinkable spirit. Keep flames away from the solution - pure alcohol is very flammable.
Evaporate the extract down to the concentration desired. 1 to 3 or more grams of dried shroom material to 1cc of alcohol is a potent brew. The more concentrated it becomes, the less alcohol needs to be consumed. When taking a dose, the alcohol can be evaported and the shroom extract taken. Dispense the psilo-liqueur with a syringe for accuracy. Accuracy is important, because a slight over calculation could put a slightly reluctant psychonaut on pluto when only the moon was targeted.
The concentrated shroom liqueur will have a pungent mushroomy aroma (like fungi perfume). Store it in small screw cap bottles or vials in the freezer. Alcohol doesn't freeze solid and will remain liquid.
PROCURING 190 - 200 PROOF ETHYL ALCOHOL FROM A LIQUOR STORE First, call a well stocked liquor store and ask if they have 190 proof ethyl alcohol. Full service liquor stores supply hospitals and laboratories with 190 - 200 proof ethyl alcohol.
If a permit is needed, call the state liquor board (usually in the State Capital) and ask for an application to get an ethyl alcohol permit. The fee is 5 or 10 dollars. On the application will be a question asking what the use of the alcohol will be. Write what they more or less want to hear. State that the use of the alcohol will be for "non-toxic surface sterilizing plus herb extraction - preservation - tincture - and perfume making" (or something to that effect). The poison warnings on the alcohol bottles and this idiotic red tape are just bureaucratic nonsense that results in the state making a big fat bundle off of the sale.
SUPPLY LIST shrooms 190 proof ethyl alcohol (GOLDEN GRAIN - EVERCLEAR ect) drinking glass (spoon - knife ect.) funnel bottles with tight caps (whiskey bottles - pop bottles - ect.) dust-pollen masks small desk fan 10cc syringe (measurement and dispensing)
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