cyantific said:

they are going to grow in the direction of the back wall ... light in itself isn't that big of a factor anyway so much as the direction of it ... 32 watt floro be more than adequate

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Citizen13 said:

cyantific said:

they are going to grow in the direction of the back wall ... light in itself isn't that big of a factor anyway so much as the direction of it ... 32 watt floro be more than adequate

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naw man. the direction of your light is not important what so ever. the spectrum of it is however.

6500k is great, but what you have is just fine!

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Citizen13 said:

naw man. the direction of your light is not important what so ever.

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avorg said:

Citizen13 said:

naw man. the direction of your light is not important what so ever.

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I'm gonna have to call BS on that.

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avorg said:

Citizen13 said:

naw man. the direction of your light is not important what so ever.

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I'm gonna have to call BS on that.

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Citizen13 said:

avorg said:

Citizen13 said:

naw man. the direction of your light is not important what so ever.

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I'm gonna have to call BS on that.

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someone please explain to me why the direction your fruits grow matters at all? they could grow inside out and backwards for all i care as long as they are healthy and potent, neither of which is effected by the direction the light comes from.

i call bs on you calling bs. thats like saying the color of your tub is important because blue is prettier than black.

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If you wish to start a thread on that, we can debate it.

I'm not going to jack the OP's thread.

cyantific said:

vertical flushes are space efficient = more yeild ... twisted horizontal flushes lose space = less yeild ..

not to mention pin triggering the sub as a whole equally and not in one spot or another

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how would one part be triggered before another? is the light not shining on the whole tub?  regardless, light is a very small part of pinning, and the least important compared to FAE and RH. also, if they grow at a 45 degree angle, they wouldnt be any less "efficient" then if they grew straight up. thats like saying a forest of trees has less space in it when the wind blows them at an angle.

i suppose we can agree to disagree on this one. especially since neither of our opinions would negatively effect the OP's grow.

edit: and if what you said is true and there is less space in your fruiting chamber, wouldnt that mean more fungus is occupying said space? dont we want more? lol

Citizen13 said:

cyantific said:

vertical flushes are space efficient = more yield ... twisted horizontal flushes lose space = less yield ..

not to mention pin triggering the sub as a whole equally and not in one spot or another

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how would one part be triggered before another? is the light not shining on the whole tub?  regardless, light is a very small part of pinning, and the least important compared to FAE and RH. also, if they grow at a 45 degree angle, they wouldn't be any less "efficient" then if they grew straight up. that's like saying a forest of trees has less space in it when the wind blows them at an angle.

i suppose we can agree to disagree on this one. especially since neither of our opinions would negatively effect the OP's grow.

edit: and if what you said is true and there is less space in your fruiting chamber, wouldn't that mean more fungus is occupying said space? dint we want more? lol

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cyantific said:

Citizen13 said:

cyantific said:

vertical flushes are space efficient = more yield ... twisted horizontal flushes lose space = less yield ..

not to mention pin triggering the sub as a whole equally and not in one spot or another

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how would one part be triggered before another? is the light not shining on the whole tub?  regardless, light is a very small part of pinning, and the least important compared to FAE and RH. also, if they grow at a 45 degree angle, they wouldn't be any less "efficient" then if they grew straight up. that's like saying a forest of trees has less space in it when the wind blows them at an angle.

i suppose we can agree to disagree on this one. especially since neither of our opinions would negatively effect the OP's grow.

edit: and if what you said is true and there is less space in your fruiting chamber, wouldn't that mean more fungus is occupying said space? dint we want more? lol

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no it means more of the vertical space which is the majority of the space in your tub is not used lmfao come on man you re using effing forest references and I'm using personal grow references who's info you think is more useable ?

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you think im just pulling this out of my ass? come on man i was using the trees as real world reference outside of mycology that someone could imagine easily, not because im an amateur.

mushrooms will grow just as large at an angle as they will straight up, do you think they just STOP growing suddenly if they contact the side of the tub? i never put the windows on my tubs on top because they dont stack then.

here's how i have my recent setup so you can see how i do my windows, and although this one hasnt been tested, ive done similiar things on a slightly smaller scale that have worked out great in the past with amazing flushes.

cyantific said:

i know what you were trying to do but is wasn't relevant because a forest is well a fucking forest and under the great big blue sky and a tub has dimensions ... I'm not saying all this is mandatory shit , I'm just saying if you want to maximize your results you have to maximize your resources , space being one of them ... yes they will grow big in their race for light and then once the main beam of it becomes choked off by the twisting mass the rest of the mush on the other side are ass out on light and say fuck it and stunt ... it lop sides grows

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cyantific said:

no youre talking to someone whos been doing this shit for a good while and seen it all happen ... with wattage in the 100s on one side the maturation process will be lopsided for the flush ... once those big ones right on the light start opening the others will follow suit in w/e stage they are in and cap out

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Junkboxer said:

ok so i took some of what you guys said into account and made some changes. i put the tubs on a cardboard box so they are a foot off the ground. i also lined the sides of the walls with mylar. whattaya think?

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scottandrew said:

I think elevating them is a good idea, most agree that the majority of contams are on the the first foot of the floor.  Nice setup

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Citizen13 said:

cyantific said:

no youre talking to someone whos been doing this shit for a good while and seen it all happen ... with wattage in the 100s on one side the maturation process will be lopsided for the flush ... once those big ones right on the light start opening the others will follow suit in w/e stage they are in and cap out

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are you going to insist that light makes mushrooms grow faster? and that the closer to the light they are, the faster they will grow?

please don't.

edit: and since when did wattage have ANYTHING to do with anything? were talking about kelvins here, spectrums, not how much electricity your bulb uses.

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I think it's pretty damned obvious that mycelium is converting light into some other form of energy that is useful to it.  Mushrooms grown with proper lighting pin more prolifically, grow fatter and meatier with considerably more finish weight, and are more vigorous and healthy looking.

It's worthless to compare mushrooms to plants.  Mycelium is as different from plants as we are.  The absence of photosynthesis doesn't mean the mycelium isn't deriving energy from the light.

To answer the original poster, you'll get mushrooms from the HPS.  It will make up somewhat in intensity what it lacks in proper spectrum.  I've had excellent results with a 400 watt MH which was already running in the room anyway.  MH is around 4,000 Kelvin,  which is closer to what we're looking for than an HPS which tends to run around 2700 Kelvin.  As said above, unless you're already running the HPS for something else, get a fluorescent fixture and save the HPS for another day.
RR

yeah i insist ... and i just did