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Amazon Shop: ½ Pint Jars, Gypsum, Peat, Pressure Cooker, Scales, Vermiculite

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OfflineSS32
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Pasteurizing 50/50 Casing
    #11352885 - 10/30/09 06:04 PM (7 years, 11 months ago)

I want to have a run at some bulk.  I've read about a couple different methods for pasteurizing the soil.  One says to put it in the oven on 200 and wait for the soil to get to 160, and another says you can put it in a bag and put that in boiling water, although I'm not sure how you could watch the temp.  Any suggestions?


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Did he dream about dragons? Did he dream about deer? Did he whisper  he names of friends who were near?
What songs did they play, and how far away? Why did he whisper, why did she scream?
What does the sound of a screen door mean?
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How far are the mountains? Where do they end? Why would the church?
Did the service begin? Tell me who died, and tell me who cried.
Help me hide in the skin of a deer, my zippered-up bag in the mouth of a stag so swiftly I go through rows of does,
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OfflineThyrax
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Re: Pasteurizing 50/50 Casing [Re: SS32]
    #11352900 - 10/30/09 06:06 PM (7 years, 11 months ago)



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Offlinecyb3rtr0n
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Re: Pasteurizing 50/50 Casing [Re: SS32]
    #11352922 - 10/30/09 06:11 PM (7 years, 11 months ago)

here is the method I've printed out and used,

Quote:

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6020110#6020110

Here's my casing and pasteurization tek of choice.
RR

Casing tek

Measure the appropriate amount of dry peat moss for your application. For the first few times you make up casing mix, you’ll just have to take an educated guess as to how much to prepare, then add or subtract from that amount as needed for future projects.

Place the dry peat into a large bowl, five gallon bucket, wheelbarrow, etc., depending on amount. Leave room for the quantity to double, and still allow space to stir. Break up the dry peat very well. There should be no chunks when you get finished, having carefully broken up the peat until it’s all the same consistency. To each cup of peat moss, add one teaspoon of hydrated horticultural lime, and one to two tablespoons of gypsum. Certain species can benefit from two tablespoons or even more of gypsum per cup, so don’t be afraid to experiment, up to ten percent of the amount of peat.

Mix these dry ingredients together well. After mixing, slowly add water to the mix, stirring constantly. Add moisture until field capacity is achieved. I define field capacity as being reached when you can pick up a handful of the mix and no water drips out. If you squeeze lightly a few drops will come out, and if you squeeze very hard, a small rivulet or stream will flow out. Remember, the peat will not absorb all the water at once, so when you reach field capacity, let the mix sit for ten minutes and check again. Chances are, you’ll have to add more moisture.

In a separate bowl, place an equal amount by volume of vermiculite. Fill the bowl with water so the vermiculite begins to float a bit. Turn the bowl over and allow all the water to drain off. A fine mesh strainer works well for larger amounts.

Mix the moistened vermiculite with the moistened peat/lime/gypsum very well and pasteurize at 140F to 160F for one hour. Use as soon as it’s cooled. If you don’t use it all, it’s best to discard or use for your houseplants. Make a fresh batch every time for best results.
RR




Pasteurization tek

Load the pre-moistened to field capacity casing mix, compost or manure into quart mason jars. Place a lid and/or foil over the top. Put the jars into a large covered pot of cold water, with the water filled to 2/3 to ¾ of the way up the jars. A large kettle or pressure cooker works well. If necessary, put a plate or some other weight over the jars to prevent them from floating. Make sure you have a spacer or dishtowel under the jars to prevent the direct heat of the stove burner or flame from cracking your jars. Place the lid on the pot and turn on the stove. Bring the water to a boil, but watch over it and as soon as the water actually reaches a boil, shut off the stove, but leave the pot sitting on the burner. The preceding is for an electric stove that will remain hot for a little while after shutting off power. If you use gas, allow the water to boil for one to two minutes before shutting off the stove. After a couple of hours when they’ve cooled, the jars can be removed and used.

The first time or two you use this technique, monitor the interior of your jars with a meat thermometer. Place it right into the center of the peat or compost. You want to make sure the center of the jar reaches at least 140F and stays there for an hour, but don’t allow it to exceed 170F. Depending on the thickness and capacity of your kettle and lid, you may need to adjust the above times slightly. This tek works because glass is an insulator, so the temperature inside the jars lags the water in the kettle. When I use the above procedure with 7 full quart jars in my All American 921, it comes out perfectly just as written. If you use a smaller pot, you may need to turn the stove on briefly at the ½ hour mark for a few minutes.

The advantage to this tek is there is no pillowcase, etc., to drain and little to no mess or stink is made in your kitchen or pressure cooker. The disadvantage is you have a bunch of jars to wash when you’re done.
RR








the only part I did differently was the actual pasturising process.  but I like this method for prepping the mix.

I used a 5 gallon bucket, and a paint strainer bag.  I put all the ingredents in the mesh bag, and poured boiling water into the bucket and let it soak for a couple hours with the lid on.  it maintained 180 the whole time.

I then drained out the water and let the bag sit, whikle it cooled and drained in the bucket.  when the casing temp reached about 80 degrees F, I squeezed off excess moisture and applied it to my trays.


Edited by cyb3rtr0n (10/30/09 06:17 PM)


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OfflineBrandNewbie
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Re: Pasteurizing 50/50 Casing [Re: cyb3rtr0n]
    #11353299 - 10/30/09 07:05 PM (7 years, 11 months ago)

I always use this method which works like a charm. I don't do large grows though.

Quote:

RogerRabbit said:
My pasteurization tek.
RR



Pasteurization tek

Load the pre-moistened to field capacity casing mix, compost or manure into quart mason jars.  Place a lid and/or foil over the top.  Put the jars into a large covered pot of cold water, with the water filled to 2/3 to ¾ of the way up the jars. A large kettle or pressure cooker works well.  If necessary, put a plate or some other weight over the jars to prevent them from floating.  Make sure you have a spacer or dishtowel under the jars to prevent the direct heat of the stove burner or flame from cracking your jars. Place the lid on the pot and turn on the stove. Bring the water to a boil, but watch over it and as soon as the water actually reaches a boil, shut off the stove, but leave the pot sitting on the burner.  The preceding is for an electric stove that will remain hot for a little while after shutting off power.  If you use gas, allow the water to boil for one to two minutes before shutting off the stove.  After a couple of hours when they’ve cooled, the jars can be removed and used.

The first time or two you use this technique, monitor the interior of your jars with a meat thermometer.  Place it right into the center of the peat or compost.  You want to make sure the center of the jar reaches at least 140F and stays there for an hour, but don’t allow it to exceed 170F.  Depending on the thickness and capacity of your kettle and lid, you may need to adjust the above times slightly.  This tek works because glass is an insulator, so the temperature inside the jars lags the water in the kettle.  When I use the above procedure with 7 full quart jars in my All American 921, it comes out perfectly just as written.  If you use a smaller pot, you may need to turn the stove on briefly at the ½ hour mark for a few minutes.

The advantage to this tek is there is no pillowcase, etc., to drain and little to no mess or stink is made in your kitchen or pressure cooker.  The disadvantage is you have a bunch of jars to wash when you’re done.
RR




--------------------
Question: Why do women wear make-up and perfume? 
Answer: Because they're ugly and they stink.


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OfflineThyrax
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Re: Pasteurizing 50/50 Casing [Re: BrandNewbie]
    #11353348 - 10/30/09 07:15 PM (7 years, 11 months ago)

yeah rr tek is perfect for low scale pasteurization. But I like mine for very large scale! :laugh:


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OfflineSS32
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Re: Pasteurizing 50/50 Casing [Re: Thyrax]
    #11354955 - 10/31/09 12:28 AM (7 years, 11 months ago)

Good stuff, thanks guys


--------------------
Did he dream about dragons? Did he dream about deer? Did he whisper  he names of friends who were near?
What songs did they play, and how far away? Why did he whisper, why did she scream?
What does the sound of a screen door mean?
Who talks on the hill? Who goes to the cellar, can you feel the chill? Where does the river, when will the wind?
How far are the mountains? Where do they end? Why would the church?
Did the service begin? Tell me who died, and tell me who cried.
Help me hide in the skin of a deer, my zippered-up bag in the mouth of a stag so swiftly I go through rows of does,
it flows, it flows, it flows, it flows all over the hill where the green grass grows.


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Offlinemushking
ALL GLORY TO THE HYPNOTOAD
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Registered: 03/24/09
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Last seen: 2 years, 7 months
Re: Pasteurizing 50/50 Casing [Re: SS32]
    #11354996 - 10/31/09 12:41 AM (7 years, 11 months ago)

i always pressure cook my casing in jars. i dont trust other forms of sterilization.


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Offlinesecondhand
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Re: Pasteurizing 50/50 Casing [Re: SS32]
    #11355929 - 10/31/09 07:21 AM (7 years, 11 months ago)

Use a turkey thermometer with probe.

Stick probe in casing mix, attach probe to reader, and place reader outside of oven.

Monitor reader for temp.

Good luck.


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Amazon Shop: ½ Pint Jars, Gypsum, Peat, Pressure Cooker, Scales, Vermiculite

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