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InvisiblePsilocelium
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Caespitosa Wrinklage- Pics
    #11334751 - 10/27/09 10:58 PM (7 years, 11 months ago)

Not sure if this is natural after being watered a bit too much, but my little clump of cacti started to wrinkle a little on a couple different spots.

I pulled the mass out of the pot it was in and discovered a pretty root-bound mess. I guess when I got it I didn't carefully inspect it.... well I had no clue about Lophophora's preferences. It appeared that the last person that had it, planted it in mostly peat moss and sand.

I was none the wiser at the time, but now have it in mostly perlite with a few pieces of volcanic rock under the surface There is also about 5% Humus, 10% Sand, and a solid cup of Calcium Carbonate for the PH buffer.

After overwatering after a move, the thing started to rot a little around the edges, I cut off some of the rot and let it dry overnight. I also untangled the mass of roots and got as much organic matter off it as I could. Now it is repotted with a new lighting setup. 2 1750 Lumen CFL's.



I thought maybe it was because of the heat from the lights and the fact that it has soaked up more water than it's used to and is shedding waterweight.







Thanks

Anyone know why it might be wrinkling? Is this bad? Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


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InvisiblePsilocelium
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Re: Caespitosa Wrinklage- Pics [Re: Psilocelium]
    #11334863 - 10/27/09 11:14 PM (7 years, 11 months ago)

That used to be one cacti by the way, the bridge connecting the two was about as thick as a pencil lead and half a Cm long so I disconnected them.

They have been sitting in about 55 degree weather in my room until I put them under the Flouros which made them pretty warm, prolly about 80-85 at the top surface.


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Re: Caespitosa Wrinklage- Pics [Re: Psilocelium]
    #11334905 - 10/27/09 11:21 PM (7 years, 11 months ago)

So have they shrunk after you separated?

At the moment I'm thinking a damaged root system that is having trouble taking up water so it is relying on its reserve water supply until the roots recover....Long shot but that's all I can add, something is not right though.


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Re: Caespitosa Wrinklage- Pics [Re: karode13]
    #11334939 - 10/27/09 11:27 PM (7 years, 11 months ago)

is that just pumice they are growing in??


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Re: Caespitosa Wrinklage- Pics [Re: scruffymafia]
    #11334997 - 10/27/09 11:37 PM (7 years, 11 months ago)

I was about to say the same.

It looks like it's cracking from over inflation which is usually caused from over watering and fertilizing.

However, with all that perlite I'd think that the water would flow right through.


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Re: Caespitosa Wrinklage- Pics [Re: Cactusdan]
    #11335447 - 10/28/09 12:46 AM (7 years, 11 months ago)

some do have that wrinkle look, even when hydrated.  i would watch that rot though.  also caestpisoa having so many crevices tend not to dry out as fast if you get water on the stems, they rot easy like that, so careful.

more light would be good, yours are stretching :smile:


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InvisiblePsilocelium
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Re: Caespitosa Wrinklage- Pics [Re: kadakuda]
    #11336217 - 10/28/09 03:59 AM (7 years, 11 months ago)

Ok, yeah i did just start them under those flouros the other day and the base you're seeing is prolly cuz I planted them high to keep the sides exposed to air.

That split on the top of the big one happened back in June when I first got em. I did overwater and ferted them maybe too much. I can see the root system isn't the greatest, I untangled it just yesterday so it prolly needs to get going again, I also split them up while doing that. I figured it was for the better in case one side took to rot more.

Should I just stop watering for a week or two? I dont think it needs anymore water at all. It is a bit soft, alot more soft than when I first got it.

It is mostly perlite in that container. Gypsum and humus are all I put in that new mix. It was in way too much peat and soil before I realized what they require. The same mix im using with my Bridgessi and they are just fine.

They definitely need to recover from my ignorance.:nonono:


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Edited by Psilocelium (10/28/09 04:01 AM)


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InvisibleMr. Mushrooms
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Re: Caespitosa Wrinklage- Pics [Re: Psilocelium]
    #11339149 - 10/28/09 04:46 PM (7 years, 11 months ago)

You'll have that.  All of us are still learning.  At this point, I wouldn't water it for a while.


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Re: Caespitosa Wrinklage- Pics [Re: Mr. Mushrooms]
    #11339386 - 10/28/09 05:12 PM (7 years, 11 months ago)

when using fluoros, its best to use the tubes instead of the compact ones. the compacts tend to give off more heat than the tubes.

and the light that close might have made them shrivel. thats my experience.


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Re: Caespitosa Wrinklage- Pics [Re: ferrel_human]
    #11339405 - 10/28/09 05:14 PM (7 years, 11 months ago)

An excellent point.  :thumbup:


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Re: Caespitosa Wrinklage- Pics [Re: ferrel_human]
    #11339424 - 10/28/09 05:17 PM (7 years, 11 months ago)

Quote:

ferrel_human said:
when using fluoros, its best to use the tubes instead of the compact ones. the compacts tend to give off more heat than the tubes.

and the light that close might have made them shrivel. thats my experience.




this man knows his lophs.


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Re: Caespitosa Wrinklage- Pics [Re: drift]
    #11339913 - 10/28/09 06:22 PM (7 years, 11 months ago)

Quote:

drift said:
Quote:

ferrel_human said:
when using fluoros, its best to use the tubes instead of the compact ones. the compacts tend to give off more heat than the tubes.

and the light that close might have made them shrivel. thats my experience.




this man knows his lophs.




it took many trials and many deaths and i still ain't got it right. i try to give info to the best of my knowledge. so i hope that helps.


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Re: Caespitosa Wrinklage- Pics [Re: ferrel_human]
    #11340815 - 10/28/09 08:34 PM (7 years, 11 months ago)

Why not just use good ol' natural sun? Thats what they evolved under all these millions of years.. Fluoros have a shitty color temperature (spectrum) at best.

If that top layer of soil is an indication of how much organic matter is in that soil, then you seriously need to reconsider your formula.

When you hear that lophs and other desert cacti dont need much organic matter, it doesnt mean they grow on fuck all of nothing. Your whole setup looks like Auschwitz for cacti, im serious. There is no way those poor fuckers are getting any where near their energy and nutritional requirements.

Perlite/pumice is simply glass, its shit. It has no nutritional value at all, you might as well have it grow in chipped plastic. When it is said they only need low amounts of organic matter, that is because they live in sand that is rich in minerals - which they have evolved to grow off.

If you want them to grow happily, you need to replicate their natural habitat. That means soft sands (sedimentary rock), natural light, warm temps and fine particle organic matter (sieved soil and peat).

20-40% organic matter is about right.


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Re: Caespitosa Wrinklage- Pics [Re: scruffymafia]
    #11341536 - 10/28/09 10:30 PM (7 years, 11 months ago)

Alright, I guess I was under the impression they didn't like anywhere near even 20% organic matter. I have read lots of posts with very experienced growers saying 5-10%.

Maybe I will switch it up to mostly sand and a better organic source. I'll prolly switch most of the perlite with small river rock.

Before this, those cacti did have at least 40% organic matter and things got out of hand with rot.

I'll also raise the lighting. I'm actually gonna construct a grow box for all my cacti. I live in Minnesota, and right now the temp swings from 40-20 degrees F. I cant risk leavin em outside. They will surely croak. I did have them out for a majority of the summer and they were lovin it.

Thanks for your help guys. I appreciate it. Any other tips?


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Re: Caespitosa Wrinklage- Pics [Re: Psilocelium]
    #11341660 - 10/28/09 10:52 PM (7 years, 11 months ago)

Look into some formulas for mineral soils that combine things like grit, clay, lavarock, limestone, and perlite.


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Invisiblescruffymafia
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Re: Caespitosa Wrinklage- Pics [Re: Cactusdan]
    #11341778 - 10/28/09 11:13 PM (7 years, 11 months ago)

Well the organic matter composition depends on how well draining the soil is and how hot the surrounding environment is. Where i am, with the mix i use - the soil is completely bone dry within about 4-5 days (pots soaked for 2-3 hours) - nowhere near enough time for rot to form and do damage.

My desert species are in about 40% organic matter and my columnars are in about 60% - they are all doing brilliantly.


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This is the strangest life I've ever known.

When you realize how perfect everything is you will tilt your head back and laugh at the sky.


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InvisiblePsilocelium
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Re: Caespitosa Wrinklage- Pics [Re: scruffymafia]
    #11341996 - 10/28/09 11:44 PM (7 years, 11 months ago)

Cool, well I definitely will look into changing up this entire substrate.

Thank you guys very much for your intelligence. You may have just saved a couple Lophophora in this world.:grin::thumbup:


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Re: Caespitosa Wrinklage- Pics [Re: Psilocelium]
    #11342239 - 10/29/09 12:14 AM (7 years, 11 months ago)

Hoping for the best for you and your babies.

Here's something to read about cactus soil.  It isn't the answer just one man's opinion.  I consider it advice for the beginner.  My favorite line is:

Quote:

Experienced growers will assure you that this is not the case and that no soil mix  is ideal for all cacti species. Beyond that, these commercially available mixes are not just inadequate for some cacti, they don't work for most cacti.




http://cactiguide.com/article/?article=article8.php

At 5% you probably need a little more organic material.  The "perfect" mix for Lophs deserves to be a thread of its own.


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Re: Caespitosa Wrinklage- Pics [Re: Mr. Mushrooms]
    #11342966 - 10/29/09 02:13 AM (7 years, 11 months ago)

Thanks for the link brother.:gethigh:


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Re: Caespitosa Wrinklage- Pics [Re: Psilocelium]
    #11344773 - 10/29/09 01:50 PM (7 years, 11 months ago)

over exposure to sun.


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Mushrooms, Mycology and Psychedelics >> The Ethnobotanical Garden

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