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fundamentalchair
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Registered: 07/13/09
Posts: 801
Last seen: 12 years, 11 months
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Ghetto Tek: Automated Light + FAE in a mono (or whatever, really) - Rewrite 10/25
#11248428 - 10/14/09 07:36 PM (14 years, 7 months ago) |
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Okay, I'm doing a total re-write on this. More pics, better pics, and a tub from the start.
First off, I started making a mono from pretty much this process. http://www.shroomery.org/forums/remlinker.php?Cat=&Entry=95933&F_Board=255&Thread=5930161&Main=5930161
I wanted to automate light and FAE, while not having to worry about having a clear tub or having a well lit room. This is what I've come up with.
First I start with a tub and put 4 holes in it. I am only using the bottom holes, as there will be a vent on the lid.

In the inside of my tub, there were some vent holes, and I didn't like em, so I filled them in with some silicone.

From here, it was time to start cutting up some plexi. I am going to add a window, a box with a fan and filter in it. Here are some of the materials needed for plexi work.

-Straight edge -Plexi cutting (scoring) tool -Utility knife -Clamps -Yo-yo (Tape measure)
The process is to clamp a straight edge onto the plexi, and use the scoring tool followed by a utility knife to cut a small groove into the plexi so it is breakable on that line. For this project, I am using:
2x 5"x5" 4x 5"x2"
This will give me enough plexi for the window and the box for the fan (120mm Case fan for a computer).
To do the cuts, measure out 5" off the plexi, and clamp it down like such.

Run the scoring tool along the straight edge with gentle pressure from one end to the other. Be slow but fluid and don't press too hard. If you press hard and you feel the blade 'studder', you will have the cutter fall out of the groove and mark up your plexi. Once you have used the scoring tool about 6-8 times, switch to a utility knife. I do this another 6-8 times.
Once properly scored, it should look like this.

It is important to have a corner on a table, and line the score up with the edge. This gives the break line a much much better chance of breaking correctly and cleanly. Also, it is important that your table is at least as long as the plexi cut. Hold down the plexi on the table close to the edge and give the hanging off piece a nice whack. If you did it right, it won't look like this.
 (This is what you don't want your cut to look like)
Once you're done getting all the pieces cut, its time to bust out the hole saw. I personally like to use the flat cheap-o ones rather than the circular sawtooth design. Plexi likes to chip, and a regular drill bit often causes it to shatter. Get a drill stop and a glove.

When drilling a hole in 1 of the 5"x5", make sure not to press hard into the plexi when drilling. You need to press into it a little bit, but don't lean on it. If the center tip pierces the plexi and 'drops' the outter cutter part on it, it will likely yank the plexi out of your hand (gloves, people...) and quite possibly shatter it. You want to put as many big holes as you can in there, these will be stuffed with poly for a filter later.

Once you have all the pieces cut, it's time to grab your fan and start assembly. If you haven't yet, it is important to remove the cling film from the plexi now.
Place the fan on its side, and put silicone down one of the edges (vertical) and stick a piece of the 5"x2" plexi on it.

Continue rotating the fan around, putting silicone on the fan and the edges where the plexi meet. Each piece of plexi should have one end on another piece of plexi, and one piece lying on it. This allows the pieces to be over-sized and still fit together. Once the 4 sides are on, I put some clamps on to keep it together while it cures.

From here, I went and prepped a CFL by putting silicone around the bulb and the housing to help extend its life.

Next its time to cut some holes in the lid to begin assembly. I used another fan as a stencil for the vent and window.

I then took a utility knife and made a light score (freehand) along the lines. After about 4 passes, I could plunge the blade all the way through the lid and cut the parts out. Also, I drilled a 1" hole in the lid for the CFL. This will leave the bulb in the tub with a lamp-kit outside powering it.
From there, all that is left is to glue the fan box and the window to the box and install the lighting. (see the bottom of the post for a diagram for a lamp kit for wiring)

Now we need to power the fan somehow. Being as how its a PC fan, it has a 12v molex input. This can be completely workable.
First thing you'll need is some sort of power-brick. Like this one.

This sticker will tell you a lot of things you will need to know in order to make sure you don't burn the house down. The major things you need to look for are the output (voltage and amperage) and the orientation of the wiring.
The one I have is a 12v output at 300 mA (0.3 Amps). My fan at max speed (its a 3 speed fan) uses 220 mA. If I were to go over that 300 mA limit, I could blow a fuse / overheat the brick / burn down the house. Don't do it.
The little picture at the bottom of the sticker shows which portion of the end plug is what. There is a little 'C' with a dot in the middle, and a '-' with a line to the 'C' and a '+' to the dot. This would be called a positive pin. Quite frankly, I could care less what way the electrons flow, but this information will become useful later.
Once I got my power brick, it was time to play hack-n-slash on a molex Y cable.

Cut off the end that is different from the other 2 right at the base. Take one of the other ends and cut off the two wires (red and black) that aren't the yellow and black that are next to each other.

The reason I am trying to leave gender out of this portion isn't to be confusing, but rather molex connectors are funky. On the male housing the pins inside are female, and on the female housing the pins are male. If you can't figure out what end not to clip based on the end on the fan, you shouldn't be doing this anyhow, let along playing with this ghetto electrical engineering.
Looking at the below chart, and referencing the sticker on the back of the power brick, I now know how to wire this thing.

All I have to do is strip a little bit of the yellow wire and stick it in the hole in the end of the connector, then glue in with a bit of silicone. Silicone is non-conductive as well as removable; I don't plan for this to be this ghetto forever...

Now I strip a bit of the black wire and attach it by using an insulated twist tie to the outside and wrap with electrical tape.

Stand back, plug it in, and hope you don't get any fireworks. Next, either throw up some horns or go grab the fire extinguisher.


If you aren't adament to build any of this, check out my tradelist, I have the fan/light for trade and will be adding some wired DC power (molex plugins) when I get around to it.
-------------------- semper necessitas probandi incumbit ei qui agit Sclerotia FAQ... If ya ain't got any stones, grow some. Will work for Laetiporus sulphureus culture/spores (or any other Laetiporus actually),  me. My Trade list. Ghetto Tek: Auto FAE & Light
Edited by fundamentalchair (10/31/09 12:57 PM)
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Doc_T
Random Dude




Registered: 03/06/09
Posts: 42,395
Loc: Colorado
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Re: Ghetto Tek: Automated Light + FAE in a mono (or whatever, really) [Re: fundamentalchair]
#11248446 - 10/14/09 07:38 PM (14 years, 7 months ago) |
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So you have the bulb- and the fitting- inside the humidity?
-------------------- You make it all possible. Doesn't it feel good?
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Slimz
.-~*´`*·~-experience-~*´`*·~-.




Registered: 10/03/07
Posts: 3,588
Loc: Maryland
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Re: Ghetto Tek: Automated Light + FAE in a mono (or whatever, really) [Re: Doc_T]
#11248693 - 10/14/09 08:12 PM (14 years, 7 months ago) |
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CFL do OK in humidity actually.. but they do better when you seal all cracks with silicone FYI..
-------------------- Lazy Drywall Tek (no powdery mess) This series will blow your mind and confirm what you already know to be true. The Pharmacratic Inquisition Best Thread Ever ! ! !
me if you have questions about lasers Although i may advise others in a general way regarding all types of mushroom grows, and may even post question from other forums about growing "active" mushrooms, i only grow non-"active" mushrooms and edibles. FeelFamily resident tech guru
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fundamentalchair
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Registered: 07/13/09
Posts: 801
Last seen: 12 years, 11 months
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Re: Ghetto Tek: Automated Light + FAE in a mono (or whatever, really) [Re: Slimz]
#11251100 - 10/15/09 05:05 AM (14 years, 7 months ago) |
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Quote:
So you have the bulb- and the fitting- inside the humidity?
The 'bulb' is inside the humidity, while the 'lamp kit' is outside.
I probably should have put some silicone around the glass of the cfl to the body of it, but alas, I didn't.
The bulb seals up against the tub lid much tighter than the lid seals to the rest of the tub, btw.
Quote:
CFL do OK in humidity actually.. but they do better when you seal all cracks with silicone FYI..
One's flickerin already. If they last a month, it'll still be worth it.
-------------------- semper necessitas probandi incumbit ei qui agit Sclerotia FAQ... If ya ain't got any stones, grow some. Will work for Laetiporus sulphureus culture/spores (or any other Laetiporus actually),  me. My Trade list. Ghetto Tek: Auto FAE & Light
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fundamentalchair
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Registered: 07/13/09
Posts: 801
Last seen: 12 years, 11 months
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Re: Ghetto Tek: Automated Light + FAE in a mono (or whatever, really) [Re: fundamentalchair]
#11320067 - 10/25/09 05:56 PM (14 years, 6 months ago) |
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for re-write.
-------------------- semper necessitas probandi incumbit ei qui agit Sclerotia FAQ... If ya ain't got any stones, grow some. Will work for Laetiporus sulphureus culture/spores (or any other Laetiporus actually),  me. My Trade list. Ghetto Tek: Auto FAE & Light
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Oatman2000
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Re: Ghetto Tek: Automated Light + FAE in a mono (or whatever, really) [Re: fundamentalchair]
#12082969 - 02/23/10 11:59 AM (14 years, 2 months ago) |
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somewhat of an aged post (but is being linked in a signature)
I use a greenhouse type setup and kick on a inflatable air mattress pump for 15 min each day with a cheap timer.
also lots of holes (slits) in the greenhouse
it's loud, but i don't care... this thing really pumps out some air! (exchange) (bottom is open for co2 to escape)
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Spawning to COIR
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fundamentalchair
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Registered: 07/13/09
Posts: 801
Last seen: 12 years, 11 months
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Re: Ghetto Tek: Automated Light + FAE in a mono (or whatever, really) [Re: Oatman2000]
#12129521 - 03/02/10 06:19 PM (14 years, 2 months ago) |
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Was it in my sig or someone else's?
I'm working on a much more in depth automation project, which will be much less ghetto. That system above seems to work okay, but it isn't any good at keeping in the humidity. Seems to be okay in the spring and fall, but the winter it's just too dry.
-------------------- semper necessitas probandi incumbit ei qui agit Sclerotia FAQ... If ya ain't got any stones, grow some. Will work for Laetiporus sulphureus culture/spores (or any other Laetiporus actually),  me. My Trade list. Ghetto Tek: Auto FAE & Light
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