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Amazon Shop: ½ Pint Jars, Coir, Gypsum, Peat, Rye Grain, Scales, Vermiculite, Wild Bird Seed

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InvisibleJunkboxer
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Monotub question
    #11220588 - 10/10/09 02:27 PM (8 years, 13 days ago)

ive decided to switched my grow from a shotgun to monotub. i currently have 5 big jars colonizing right now. im confused about one thing when it comes to monotubs. how do i layer it? would i do it as i would a small try but on a bigger scale? like, layer the bottom with 50/50 verm and peat moss, then a layer of my colonized WBS all broken up and finally another layer of verm and peat moss? and patch as a week or so goes on?


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OfflineDamion5050
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Re: Monotub question [Re: Junkboxer]
    #11220626 - 10/10/09 02:36 PM (8 years, 13 days ago)

Do 60% coir and 40% verm or something around there..  Go to my signature and click the link that says useful information then scroll down to Coir section and click the revised large doses coir tek.. Just follow that one..


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OfflineProject
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Re: Monotub question [Re: Junkboxer]
    #11220636 - 10/10/09 02:38 PM (8 years, 13 days ago)

You're going to want to use a bulk substrate.

Build your monotub and have your substrate prepared (horse poo, coir, or a mix of whatever).  You can just lay down some bulk, then some grain and lightly mix it around, then another layer of bulk, another layer of grain, spreading it out a little.  Do this until your substrate is as deep as you want it with whatever ratios you're wanting.  The top layer should be bulk substrate covering up any visible grains.  Let this fully colonize.  At this point you can case it and then later patch and fruit, or just fruit uncased.

Check out the monotub tek in my signature.


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InvisibleJunkboxer
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Re: Monotub question [Re: Project]
    #11220653 - 10/10/09 02:42 PM (8 years, 13 days ago)

isnt my substrate, the WBS, colonizing now? i need another type of substrate to layer around and colonize it IN the monotub?


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Offlinefundamentalchair
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Re: Monotub question [Re: Project]
    #11220656 - 10/10/09 02:42 PM (8 years, 13 days ago)

For an idea of a bulk mixture:

1 brick coir, 2 qts verm, 2 qts worm castings, 1 cup gypsum, 5 qts water, 6 qts spawn (8 jars) runs a nice 4-4.25" in a 70 qt mono.


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Sclerotia FAQ... If ya ain't got any stones, grow some.

Will work for Laetiporus sulphureus culture/spores (or any other Laetiporus actually), :pm: me.

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InvisibleJunkboxer
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Re: Monotub question [Re: fundamentalchair]
    #11220716 - 10/10/09 02:58 PM (8 years, 13 days ago)

i just read "The Ohmatic Monotub wins again - A step by step pictorial" and that pretty much cleared everything up for me. im going to do his coir method as well. one last thing, theres no misting or fanning involved? once everythings mixed up and layered nicely i just close it until harvest? how do i get the right moisture content in there?


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Invisiblem00nshine
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Re: Monotub question [Re: Junkboxer]
    #11220719 - 10/10/09 02:59 PM (8 years, 13 days ago)

Quote:

Junkboxer said:
ive decided to switched my grow from a shotgun to monotub. i currently have 5 big jars colonizing right now. im confused about one thing when it comes to monotubs. how do i layer it? would i do it as i would a small try but on a bigger scale? like, layer the bottom with 50/50 verm and peat moss, then a layer of my colonized WBS all broken up and finally another layer of verm and peat moss? and patch as a week or so goes on?




What you're saying will work, it's just that it's better to use a bulk substrate to spawn to. If you just case it you won't get as good results as spawning it. Instead of pasteurizing you 50/50 mix just go ahead and pasteurize some manure you can buy from the store. Use a 1:3 ratio of spawn to bulk when mixing. Then, when cooled, take it and mix it in with your spawn in the tub. Make sure you mix it around real well and use a trashbag or duct tape to cover the bottom of the container so you don't get side pinning. You also want to put some holes in your monotub.


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Invisiblem00nshine
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Re: Monotub question [Re: Junkboxer]
    #11220726 - 10/10/09 03:00 PM (8 years, 13 days ago)

Quote:

Junkboxer said:
i just read "The Ohmatic Monotub wins again - A step by step pictorial" and that pretty much cleared everything up for me. im going to do his coir method as well. one last thing, theres no misting or fanning involved? once everythings mixed up and layered nicely i just close it until harvest? how do i get the right moisture content in there?




If constructed correctly a monotub will provide for good conditions by itself. Just make sure you have the right moisture content in your sub before spawning. You'll only have to mist if you have extreme conditions of 90+ F for temps.


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OfflineDamion5050
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Re: Monotub question [Re: m00nshine]
    #11220745 - 10/10/09 03:04 PM (8 years, 13 days ago)

As all ready stated if you set up the mono tub properly there is no need to mist or fan, it is a set and forget method so to speak..


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InvisibleJunkboxer
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Re: Monotub question [Re: Damion5050]
    #11220773 - 10/10/09 03:11 PM (8 years, 13 days ago)

how do you get the right moisture content BEFORE closing it up though? do i make sure my substrate is at Field capacity and that will be enough moisture to provide?


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Offlinefundamentalchair
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Re: Monotub question [Re: fundamentalchair]
    #11220775 - 10/10/09 03:12 PM (8 years, 13 days ago)

Quote:

isnt my substrate, the WBS, colonizing now? i need another type of substrate to layer around and colonize it IN the monotub?




Yep, at least that's the idea anyhow.

The idea is to take grain (highly nutritious, fast growing, but succeptable to contamination) and sterilize it to get the mycelium growing, then toss it into a bulk substrate (fairly to highly nutrious, medium-fast growing, much less succeptable to contamination) to give the fungi more food. Pound for pound, bulk substrates are MUCH cheaper than grains are, and most cubes won't fruit off of straight grains (without casing).

As an idea for cost of substrates.

Rye runs me about $1/lb, or about $0.50-0.70 a quart
Coir is $7 for 3 bricks (3 gal per brick, or $0.20 a qt)
Coffee grounds are free from starbucks
Worm castings are $7 for 8 lbs (about 2 gallons, or $0.88)

All in all, bulk is cheap food, but you can't put spores on it and get it to start growing, which is why we use grains.

You can case straight grains (peat/verm/hydrated lime), but for the cost of the bulk, it's easy and provides more fruits.

Quote:

...Instead of pasteurizing you 50/50 mix just go ahead and pasteurize some manure you can buy from the store.




I would suggest against anything except verm+coir+small ammounts of additives. Coir is almost contam proof, and is much less likely to get messed up if field capacity is a little off. Not to mention that the pasturization window with coir is much much more forgiving (1 brick of coir, 2 qts verm + 4.5 quarts of near boiling water in a 5 gallon bucket, let it sit).


--------------------
semper necessitas probandi incumbit ei qui agit


Sclerotia FAQ... If ya ain't got any stones, grow some.

Will work for Laetiporus sulphureus culture/spores (or any other Laetiporus actually), :pm: me.

My Trade list.

Ghetto Tek: Auto FAE & Light


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Invisiblem00nshine
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Re: Monotub question [Re: fundamentalchair]
    #11220795 - 10/10/09 03:15 PM (8 years, 13 days ago)

Quote:

fundamentalchair said:
Quote:

isnt my substrate, the WBS, colonizing now? i need another type of substrate to layer around and colonize it IN the monotub?




Yep, at least that's the idea anyhow.

The idea is to take grain (highly nutritious, fast growing, but succeptable to contamination) and sterilize it to get the mycelium growing, then toss it into a bulk substrate (fairly to highly nutrious, medium-fast growing, much less succeptable to contamination) to give the fungi more food. Pound for pound, bulk substrates are MUCH cheaper than grains are, and most cubes won't fruit off of straight grains (without casing).

As an idea for cost of substrates.

Rye runs me about $1/lb, or about $0.50-0.70 a quart
Coir is $7 for 3 bricks (3 gal per brick, or $0.20 a qt)
Coffee grounds are free from starbucks
Worm castings are $7 for 8 lbs (about 2 gallons, or $0.88)

All in all, bulk is cheap food, but you can't put spores on it and get it to start growing, which is why we use grains.

You can case straight grains (peat/verm/hydrated lime), but for the cost of the bulk, it's easy and provides more fruits.

Quote:

...Instead of pasteurizing you 50/50 mix just go ahead and pasteurize some manure you can buy from the store.




I would suggest against anything except verm+coir+small ammounts of additives. Coir is almost contam proof, and is much less likely to get messed up if field capacity is a little off. Not to mention that the pasturization window with coir is much much more forgiving (1 brick of coir, 2 qts verm + 4.5 quarts of near boiling water in a 5 gallon bucket, let it sit).




I used store bought manure the first time I spawned and had a 100% success rate. And also consider I spawned about 60 pf jars into different containers...


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Offlinefundamentalchair
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Re: Monotub question [Re: fundamentalchair]
    #11220899 - 10/10/09 03:37 PM (8 years, 13 days ago)

Quote:

how do you get the right moisture content BEFORE closing it up though? do i make sure my substrate is at Field capacity and that will be enough moisture to provide?




Most bulk pasturization teks rely on using a pillow case. Some say to drain over night, some say to wring it out to some degree, and both often use some degree of messing around (getting water in, getting water out) to reach field capacity.

If you get a brick (I buy 3 packs) of reptile bedding, the instructions are to add 4 qts of water to a brick. That is field capacity (or damn close).

To pasturize and hit field capacity with my bulk, I put a brick of coir and 2 qts of verm + 1 cup of gypsum in a 5 gal bucket. I heat up 4.5 liters of water till where it just starts to boil (not rolling boil. tested with a meat thermometer it runs about 190). I dump the water into the bucket and put the lid on. The next day, I pick up the bucket, hold the lid on, and shake the hell out of it.

Quote:

I used store bought manure the first time I spawned and had a 100% success rate. And also consider I spawned about 60 pf jars into different containers...




While i don't disbelieve you, I am fairly certain that coir is much more contam resistant than poo. Keep in mind that no one wants to botch their first grow, that's why I suggest techniques that offer the highest level of fault tolerance to keep the possibility to a minimum until someone has more experience.


--------------------
semper necessitas probandi incumbit ei qui agit


Sclerotia FAQ... If ya ain't got any stones, grow some.

Will work for Laetiporus sulphureus culture/spores (or any other Laetiporus actually), :pm: me.

My Trade list.

Ghetto Tek: Auto FAE & Light


Post Extras: Print Post  Remind Me! Notify Moderator
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Amazon Shop: ½ Pint Jars, Coir, Gypsum, Peat, Rye Grain, Scales, Vermiculite, Wild Bird Seed

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