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Mushrooms, Mycology and Psychedelics > Mushroom Cultivation
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Quick casing question
    #1099991 -

i cased three cakes and put the three casings on top of perlite in my fish tank.on the side i have a fouth cake birthed onto a lid on the perlite whole. I light the fish tank 5 hours a day with a 40 watt bulb at nite. How long will it take for my casing to pin and should i mist the fish tank alot


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I hate to advocate drugs, alcohol, violence, or insanity to anyone, but they've always
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Re: Quick casing question [Re: Ska_mad_hatter]
    #1100008 -

how big is your terrarium and you do know that casing require 90-94% humidity for pinning and 80-84% for fruiting. cakes generaly in the peoples experiences likes any where from 90-high.

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Re: Quick casing question [Re: GLOCK_357]
    #1100014 -

the terrerium is 5.5 gallons. I don't have anything to gauge the humidty. what should i do


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I hate to advocate drugs, alcohol, violence, or insanity to anyone, but they've always
worked for me.
Hunter S. Thompson

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Re: Quick casing question [Re: Ska_mad_hatter]
    #1100019 -

also what do you do for air exchange. and buy a cheap hydrometer at walmart.

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Re: Quick casing question [Re: GLOCK_357]
    #1103294 -

i air the tank twice a day


--------------------
I hate to advocate drugs, alcohol, violence, or insanity to anyone, but they've always
worked for me.
Hunter S. Thompson

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Re: Quick casing question [Re: GLOCK_357]
    #1103354 -

just a note: this faq states that rh should be around 95 - 100 for pinning, 85 - 92 for fruiting casings. i think 80 - 84 is a little low but your mileage may vary.

http://shroomery.org/faq/faq.php?display=faq&nr=128&catnr=4&prog=1&lang=en


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Edited by Bilge (12/02/02 07:52 AM)

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Re: Quick casing question [Re: Ska_mad_hatter]
    #1103441 -

If the walls and lid of your terrarium are sweating and dripping constantly then you likely have 100% humidity. If you can get the moisture in your setup a little less than this, like maybe sweat on the walls in some places and a solid layer of fine condensation on the lid so that it isn't dripping on you casings, you should be at about 90% humidity which is want you want for the first stage. Leave it like this with the temps in the mid-80's ideally while the casing layer is colonizing. (Do not fan at all or expose to light during this time.) I like to let my casing surface colonize maybe 10 or 15% before I begin the next phase.

To begin primordia formation, you'll simply want to drop your temperature about 10 degrees, start fanning several times a day, and begin introducing a little light. Try not to go below 70 or above 80 at this time. Stamets says you should raise humidity to near 100% at this time but I've had problems with condensation on my casing when i've done this so I leave humidity the same and it works fine for me.
After about 7 days (give or take a few) of doing this, you will notice the mycellium forming tiny white dots, very dense and bright, all over the surface. This is primordia. Now you are ready to see some fruits.

Now drop your humidity to about 85 percent. This means you should have condensation on the walls and lid, but not enough for it to drip or sweat. You should be all right if the walls are sweating a little, though. You still want your temps in the mid to high 70's while the fruits are developing. Keep fanning! You should have little guys popping up for a while. Once your casings stop flushing you can clean your casing surface of all debris, possibly deep scratch and recase, cover it up and put it back into incubation as per the first paragraph.

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Re: Quick casing question [Re: Viveka]
    #1103548 -

Thanks alot evil eye....great help...

what is deep scratch... After my flush i know i have to prepare it again for the next, does this mean incubate it again?


--------------------
I hate to advocate drugs, alcohol, violence, or insanity to anyone, but they've always
worked for me.
Hunter S. Thompson

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Re: Quick casing question [Re: Ska_mad_hatter]
    #1103615 -

Yeah, you basically start again from the incubation phase........after you prepare your casing layer.

Deep scratching is when you take a sterilized fork and run it through the casing down to the substrate layer. It's most useful if you have a matted or condensated casing layer. The most important thing is to make sure you clean all the aborts, loose mycellium fibers and other remnants out of the casing layer before you put it back into incubation, cause that stuff can rot and cause problems. Sometimes i will remove most of the casing layer and recase with fresh 50/50+. I do this to make sure that the PH remains good and high because i use hydrated lime which is relatively short acting.

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