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Offlineopensourceguy
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50/50+ tek minus oyster shells
    #5846209 - 07/11/06 09:26 AM (17 years, 8 months ago)

I can't seem to find any crushed oyster shells.. I've checked everywhere, but I just can't find it. I've got everything else, can I still case without it. I'm sure it will reduce yield and potency, but my jars have been ready for a few days, and I am afraid if I wait any longer they won't be good anymore. Or maybe there is something else I can substitue it with?

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Invisiblecreamcorn
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Re: 50/50+ tek minus oyster shells [Re: opensourceguy]
    #5846243 - 07/11/06 09:44 AM (17 years, 8 months ago)

it has nothing to do with potency and little to do with yield. buffering your casing keeps it near neutral so that it will not contaminate easily.

crushed oyster shells are basically a source of calcium carbonate. you can use agricultural lime - aka ground limestone (not the hydrated kind, you want the slower acting agricultural lime), crushed coral, or even egg shells (yes like the kind you eat, save 'em and boil them so they're clean of the membranes, and grind into a powder in a blender or coffee grinder)

even though you should be able to find the stuff in garden centers... have you checked pet stores? crushed oyster shells are also used as bird feed.

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OfflineRogerRabbitM
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Re: 50/50+ tek minus oyster shells [Re: creamcorn]
    #5846265 - 07/11/06 09:56 AM (17 years, 8 months ago)

Quote:

creamcorn said:
aka ground limestone (not the hydrated kind, you want the slower acting agricultural lime),




Actually, you want hydrated garden lime. Ground limestone takes too long to break down and go to work. Hydrated lime is water soluable and goes to work right away. A combination of hydrated lime and gypsum is the best way to buffer a casing layer. The most critical time for contaminants to enter a casing is during the initial colonization and first flush stages. Once the layer is fully colonized, it's very contaminant resistant. Hydrated lime and gypsum protect your casing layer during this critical early stage, where ground limestone or other buffers that take weeks or even months to break down do not.
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Offlineopensourceguy
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Re: 50/50+ tek minus oyster shells [Re: RogerRabbit]
    #5846285 - 07/11/06 10:04 AM (17 years, 8 months ago)

So crushed egg shells will work fine too? Sweet, looks like I am going to be eating a lot of eggs this week. Also is it alright for a fully colonized jar to sit and wait for a few more days? I haven't had pin heads showing, but they don't see light [very limited at least].

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Invisiblecreamcorn
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Re: 50/50+ tek minus oyster shells [Re: RogerRabbit]
    #5846299 - 07/11/06 10:09 AM (17 years, 8 months ago)

Quote:

RogerRabbit said:
Actually, you want hydrated garden lime. Ground limestone takes too long to break down and go to work. Hydrated lime is water soluable and goes to work right away. A combination of hydrated lime and gypsum is the best way to buffer a casing layer.




I guess I didn't explain that very clear... the hydrated lime is definitely what you want for the fast action to balance pH at the beginning, and wouldn't agricultural lime then take the place of oyster shells for the longer term? (So you're basically using some of each is what I meant to get at) I've never used it myself but they're essentially the same thing (agri lime and crushed oyster shells) so I wouldn't see a problem with it.

Quote:

opensourceguy said:
Also is it alright for a fully colonized jar to sit and wait for a few more days? I haven't had pin heads showing, but they don't see light [very limited at least].




Its probably fine to let it sit a few more days, if you're worried you can stick it in the fridge and that will safely stall it for as long as you need.

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