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OfflineSHROOMpimp
719 Colorado 719
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Registered: 03/04/05
Posts: 400
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Last seen: 12 years, 1 month
How do I get a really heavy pinset?
    #4606844 - 09/01/05 12:30 AM (18 years, 6 months ago)

I've been at this a while and I'm doing OK, getting some decent fruits, and great total yeilds. But, how do I get the really heavy pinset that some of the people on here have? I spent TONS of time with my little buddies and I care for them quite well, I colonize at about 83-86 F and I fruit at about 70-73 F. I use a buffalo poo/ wheat straw mix. I fan about once an hour, no misting. The humidity looks high to average on the walls, but there is A LOT of fluffy myc. growth on the bottom half of the mature fruits. I use a white rope light for lighting purposes. Well, i'm not sure of what else I should put to help you guys help me. Oh, if it matters, i use WBS, and I mess with many strains, so i'm kinda speaking in general.


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:safesex: Just My $0.02... :safesex:

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Invisibledog
straw dog

Registered: 06/20/02
Posts: 2,790
Loc: Route 66
Re: How do I get a really heavy pinset? [Re: SHROOMpimp]
    #4606901 - 09/01/05 01:02 AM (18 years, 6 months ago)

Getting a good pinset takes practice. It is achieved by optimally providing the 3 basic triggers (light, fresh air, temperature drop) and moisture. It also helps tremendously to make your substrate surface as level as possible before casing, and then apply your casing at a uniform depth throughout. No one can tell you exactly how to achieve a great pinset because what is optimal will vary according to your location and cultivation technique. You already know how to get mushrooms; read up on patch casing and keep tweaking your variables until you achieve the pinsets you want. You'll get there. Good Luck.


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Fascism (fash'izem) n. A governmental system marked by a centralized dictatorship, stringent socioeconomic controls, and often belligerent nationalism. see also: the Bush Administration.

Edited by dog (09/01/05 01:37 AM)

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OfflinePooGrowerPart2
semi pro

Registered: 03/09/05
Posts: 116
Last seen: 18 years, 5 months
Re: How do I get a really heavy pinset? [Re: dog]
    #4606986 - 09/01/05 01:57 AM (18 years, 6 months ago)

Yea he listen to him, i did.


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Now listen hear mush babys, i just beleive its the right thing to do.... I got a brand new bitch corporate america, shes showing me alot of action right now.
But i know you put me on my feet and all, but you know, its time for me to grow.... You gotta let me go baby gotta let me go.. Im done for now so 1 for now, like all good things we must come to an end SO please show the same life to my friends.... DEAR MUSH MUSH

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Invisibleagar
old hand
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Registered: 11/21/04
Posts: 9,056
Loc: Somewhere Else
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Re: How do I get a really heavy pinset? [Re: SHROOMpimp]
    #4606999 - 09/01/05 02:15 AM (18 years, 6 months ago)

Optimal spawn, substrate, substate depth, casing material, casing depth, tray size, incubation, temps, rh & pinning triggers. The key word is OPTIMAL. Once I automated optimal FAE with an impeller type coolmist (backed up with an ultrasonic humidifier), pin sets increased greatly.


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OfflineHopeful_newbie
up and cominggrandmaster
Registered: 06/16/05
Posts: 7
Last seen: 18 years, 5 months
Re: How do I get a really heavy pinset? [Re: agar]
    #4607151 - 09/01/05 04:26 AM (18 years, 6 months ago)

:whoah: now that is what I am going to shoot for agar, hell of a pic..
  :imslow:


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Toungue tied and twisted, just an earth bound misfit...I.

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OfflineBamaman
...has issues.

Registered: 08/04/05
Posts: 657
Loc: Down the rabbit hole...
Last seen: 8 years, 7 months
Re: How do I get a really heavy pinset? [Re: Hopeful_newbie]
    #4607180 - 09/01/05 05:04 AM (18 years, 6 months ago)

Agar, I seem to be hearing conflicting info.

Dog above mentions fresh air, but I have heard other vets say that CO2 is essential during pinning and that you shouldn't fan until the fruiting stage. So, what's the truth of the matter??


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Diabetes causes hamsters.

Edited by Bamaman (09/01/05 05:06 AM)

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Invisibledog
straw dog

Registered: 06/20/02
Posts: 2,790
Loc: Route 66
Re: How do I get a really heavy pinset? [Re: Bamaman]
    #4607201 - 09/01/05 05:58 AM (18 years, 6 months ago)

This is a quote from The Mushroom Cultivator, page 140, under Basic Pinning Strategy: "Primordia have a low tolerance to CO2 and need ample fresh air." Which raises the question 'How much fresh air is "ample"?'

Page 199 under Primordia Formation strategy for cubensis states "fresh air exchanges: 1-3 per hour."

The "vet" who told you that CO2 was essential for pinning was obviously sadly mistaken.


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Fascism (fash'izem) n. A governmental system marked by a centralized dictatorship, stringent socioeconomic controls, and often belligerent nationalism. see also: the Bush Administration.

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Offlinehyphae
born to grow
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Registered: 12/13/02
Posts: 6,228
Loc: the rain forests
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Re: How do I get a really heavy pinset? [Re: Bamaman]
    #4607202 - 09/01/05 06:01 AM (18 years, 6 months ago)

Read my pinning strategy it will give you a better idea whats going on here. Pinning IS the beginning of the fruiting stage. Lowering CO2 helps pins tremendously as well as transpiration and a very moist casing.


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Getting the most out of your casings!, A pinning strategy.
Oyster Shell "Flour" $2 for 1lb. a hell of a deal :wink:
Not what is overlay but rather what overlay is
Gas Exchange vs. FAE

"We all have priorities. I used a closet once setup a nice little lab trouble was all the shit that was in there ended up in the bedroom that pissed off the GF then I ended up dumping her as she was getting in the way of my sterile culture technique! Ya I got priorities too!!!"

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Invisibleagar
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Re: How do I get a really heavy pinset? [Re: Bamaman]
    #4607433 - 09/01/05 09:16 AM (18 years, 6 months ago)

Quote:

Bamaman said:
Agar, I seem to be hearing conflicting info.

Dog above mentions fresh air, but I have heard other vets say that CO2 is essential during pinning and that you shouldn't fan until the fruiting stage. So, what's the truth of the matter??





Just my opinion, once you have hyphal knots turned into a good even formation of fully formed primordia, I give them FAE. Not before.


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Offlinemycomatt024
Stranger
Registered: 08/24/05
Posts: 92
Last seen: 11 years, 3 months
Re: How do I get a really heavy pinset? [Re: agar]
    #4607686 - 09/01/05 10:43 AM (18 years, 6 months ago)

hey shroompimp how did you like those south african transkei's and it seems you've been using buffalo poo how's that workin out for you have you used h'poo before?

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OfflineSHROOMpimp
719 Colorado 719
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Registered: 03/04/05
Posts: 400
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Re: How do I get a really heavy pinset? [Re: mycomatt024]
    #4608005 - 09/01/05 12:01 PM (18 years, 6 months ago)

well, I'm glad to hear I'm still on the right track. I've been getting down in the dumps because I've been having good flushes, but not quite the pinset I'm looking for. I haven't been using a casing layer though, and that might be hurting my flushes. I just use a mix of like 80-90% straw and 10-20% buffalo poo. I spawn colonized WBS to the pasteurized straw/BUFFpoo via crumbling 4 pints of WBS spawn in the bottom of a 10gal. tub. then i place the straw/poo mix over the spawn and slightly mix. i then pat down my surface layer very slightly, just to level it out and make sure there are no air pockets. I don't mist or place any kind of layer over the poo/straw mix.... should i be doing something different there? i think that the light and temps are OK, and my fanning should be fine, but something needs some tweaking.

OK, now to AGAR thanx for the insight, and forgive my stupidity but what's FAE? i feel like i should know what it means... maybe just an acronym I'm not familiar with.. anyways, are you saying that "in your opinion" you like to fan after the knotting turns to primordia??? well, again, thanks!

to mycomatt... south africans in my exp. are prone to contams, slow colonizing, slow growing, and somewhat hard to initiate pinning on. but, they are more beautiful than any other shroom I've had the chance to work with and very rewarding in the end. and about the buffalo poo, yeah I've been using it for a while, and having good luck but I'm curious if that's my problem with pinning.. I've never gotten to work with horse poo, but I'm nearing my end of my 60 pound stash of buffalo shit, so no i must journey out again and find some horse poo. is it common for CO-OPs to carry horse poo? hope i get to grab some soon, I've got some jars getting almost done...

thanks to all that replied,
SHROOMpimp


--------------------
:safesex: Just My $0.02... :safesex:

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OfflineBamaman
...has issues.

Registered: 08/04/05
Posts: 657
Loc: Down the rabbit hole...
Last seen: 8 years, 7 months
Re: How do I get a really heavy pinset? [Re: mycomatt024]
    #4608027 - 09/01/05 12:09 PM (18 years, 6 months ago)

Thanks folks.


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Diabetes causes hamsters.

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Invisibleagar
old hand
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Registered: 11/21/04
Posts: 9,056
Loc: Somewhere Else
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Re: How do I get a really heavy pinset? [Re: SHROOMpimp]
    #4608249 - 09/01/05 12:58 PM (18 years, 6 months ago)

FAE = FRESH AIR EXCHANGE :wink:


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Offlinemycomatt024
Stranger
Registered: 08/24/05
Posts: 92
Last seen: 11 years, 3 months
Re: How do I get a really heavy pinset? [Re: agar]
    #4608685 - 09/01/05 02:12 PM (18 years, 6 months ago)

yaeh maybe next time u could use more poo and less straw since you said u use 80-90 percent straw and 10-20 percent poo cuz i get a pretty good even pinset with rye spawned with 50/50 straw/hpoo and then case with 50/50 cococoir/verm and see if that helps the pinset goodluck!

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Offlinemycomatt024
Stranger
Registered: 08/24/05
Posts: 92
Last seen: 11 years, 3 months
Re: How do I get a really heavy pinset? [Re: mycomatt024]
    #4608693 - 09/01/05 02:14 PM (18 years, 6 months ago)

also do you coldshock after incubation and before fruiting?

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OfflineSHROOMpimp
719 Colorado 719
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Registered: 03/04/05
Posts: 400
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Re: How do I get a really heavy pinset? [Re: mycomatt024]
    #4608723 - 09/01/05 02:21 PM (18 years, 6 months ago)

thanks agar, i shoulda known that's what that meant, but as for the upping the amount of poo/straw, that would not be a good thing from what i know. horse poo is OK to do that with because of certain nutes that it has. and the fact that horse poo contains more digested straw,grain,etc. and buffalo has very little, it's mostly grass, etc. that's why you add so much straw. but i could be wrong. oh, and yes i cold shock, down to about 55 degrees F.

thanx all,
SHROOMpimp


--------------------
:safesex: Just My $0.02... :safesex:

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Invisibleyousuck
Stranger

Registered: 05/22/05
Posts: 616
Re: How do I get a really heavy pinset? [Re: SHROOMpimp]
    #4608976 - 09/01/05 03:22 PM (18 years, 6 months ago)

Quote:

The humidity looks high to average on the walls, but there is A LOT of fluffy myc




fluffy myc means theirs too much humidity. there should be no condensation on the walls of the terrarium ( if your using casings ). RH can easily stay at 100% without condensation occuring. This of course depends on the ambient room humidity and temp. Living down in the south, i find this to be true. casings seem to make their own excessive humidity without the addition of misting, bubblers, hypersonics etc... of course, always saturate your casings between flushes, but not during.

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Offlinehyphae
born to grow
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Posts: 6,228
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Re: How do I get a really heavy pinset? [Re: yousuck]
    #4609396 - 09/01/05 05:04 PM (18 years, 6 months ago)

Quote:

yousuck said:
Quote:

The humidity looks high to average on the walls, but there is A LOT of fluffy myc




fluffy myc means theirs too much humidity. there should be no condensation on the walls of the terrarium ( if your using casings ). RH can easily stay at 100% without condensation occuring. This of course depends on the ambient room humidity and temp. Living down in the south, i find this to be true. casings seem to make their own excessive humidity without the addition of misting, bubblers, hypersonics etc... of course, always saturate your casings between flushes, but not during.




Condensation will occur if there is any noticable difference in temps between the inside and out. 100% from casings alone? I don't think so. Casings need environmental moisture as well as proper water delivery as every casing I've ever done has sucked up a ton of water producing fruitbodies. I've also never had to dunk a casing because of proper water delivery. BTW NEVER SATURATE A CASING! near saturation is what mycelium thrives in, contams will thrive in a saturated casing. Once pins are set you can certainly lightly mist throughout the cropping cycle, this will take the demand for water off of your substrate and will keep shrinking to a minimum. This is fine tuning your cultivating skills nothing more, do it or not it's your guys choice. Nothing personal yousuck. GL


--------------------
Getting the most out of your casings!, A pinning strategy.
Oyster Shell "Flour" $2 for 1lb. a hell of a deal :wink:
Not what is overlay but rather what overlay is
Gas Exchange vs. FAE

"We all have priorities. I used a closet once setup a nice little lab trouble was all the shit that was in there ended up in the bedroom that pissed off the GF then I ended up dumping her as she was getting in the way of my sterile culture technique! Ya I got priorities too!!!"

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OfflineSHROOMpimp
719 Colorado 719
Male User Gallery

Registered: 03/04/05
Posts: 400
Loc: Between the turntables...
Last seen: 12 years, 1 month
Re: How do I get a really heavy pinset? [Re: hyphae]
    #4612662 - 09/02/05 01:50 PM (18 years, 6 months ago)

thanx hyphae! very good info. I'm doing things mostly right, but i haven't been putting a casing layer over my bulk substrate, i think that's my problem with pinning. and what would you recommend for the fluffy myc/high humidity prob? I use 10 gallon tubs, about 4" deep w/ 85%straw:15%buffPOOH, and i do no spray/misting through any of the life cycles, and i fan 1-2 times per hour or so, all day long, except at night when i get up every 3 hours to fan... anywayz, thanx for the thoughts...

SHROOMpimp


--------------------
:safesex: Just My $0.02... :safesex:

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OfflineDarkDisciple
The Ninja

Registered: 08/18/05
Posts: 46
Last seen: 18 years, 1 month
Re: How do I get a really heavy pinset? [Re: SHROOMpimp]
    #4612776 - 09/02/05 02:32 PM (18 years, 6 months ago)

<b> Check this out Bro </b> best thing i have read about getting a pin set

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat...0&fpart=all

Paul Stamets and J.S Chilton: The Mushroom Cultivator
CHAPTER IX:
STRATEGIES FOR MUSHROOM FORMATION (PINHEAD INITIATION)

Excerpt

Basic Pinning Strategy
Mushrooms fruit indoors in response to much the same conditions that trigger fruiting in the wild. Several environmental factors, working in combination, provide an ideal environment in which mushrooms flourish. Most, if not all cultivated mushrooms fruit at lower temperatures than the optimum for the growth of mycelium. Usually, a drop in temperature is accompanied by rain or an increase in humidity. Water is essential for the absorption of nutrients by the mycelium. And vaporous water creates the humid microclimate that is so critical for the developing primordia. Primordia have a low tolerance to CO2 and need ample fresh air. And while the mycelium has no requirement for light, many species need light to initiate pinheads and to mature into healthy mushrooms. Mushrooms form only when there is a coincidence of all these factors. Cultivators create an artificial environment that prolongs these optimum conditions so that mushrooms are given the best possible environment in which to grow.
Primordia formation strategies are well defined for species now under cultivation. These procedures are similar in their approach and differ only in certain environmental requirements. Given that the substrate has sufficient nutrients, the interaction of water, humidity, temperature, fresh air, CO2 and light all play determining roles in the fructification process. (In some cases, specific microorganisms must be present before fruiting can occur). The modification of any one of these factors beyond the fruiting requirements can inhibit or stop the process. Hence, the cultivator must have precise control over conditions within the growing room if this critical phase is to be carried out successfully.


PRIMORDIA FORMATION PROCEDURES
Agaricus brunnescens culture illustrates the interplay of environmental factors in pinhead initiation. It serves as a useful model for setting primordia in many species, especially those using a casing layer. In each of the following stages, the main considerations are highlighted and then discussed in detail. Although Agaricus does not require light, and since most cultivated mushrooms do, this requirement has been listed as the last parameter.


Stage I: Preparation
Following its application, the casing is conditioned to allow even mycelial growth into it. Once mycelial growth is well established, the casing layer microclimate and the growing room are carefully managed to meet the following requirements.

1. The casing layer is at optimum moisture capacity.
2. The casing layer surface is rough and porous.
3. The relative humidity of the growing room's air is 95%.
4. The substrate is incubated in total darkness.


During the casing colonization period, the casing layer is being conditioned for pinhead initiation. Gradually, the moisture content is brought up to the optimum and a microclimate with high relative humidity is carefully maintained. Water in the casing moves by capillary action to the surface where it is drawn into the air by evaporation. This constant movement slowly depletes the casing of the moisture needed to protect pinhead development. Therefore, in conjunction with an optimum casing moisture level, the relative humidity of the room must be held at 95%. Lower humidities must be accompanied by light but regular waterings. The higher the humidity (rH), the less water will be lost to evaporation.
Given optimum moisture conditions in and directly above the casing layer, the next step is to prepare the casing surface. Whether by initial application or by ruffling at a later time, the casing surface should be rough and open - with minute mountains and valleys. A rough open casing has more surface area where pinheads can form, provides a humid environment conducive to that formation and allows the diffusion of metabolic gases.


Stage II: Environmental Transition?The Prelude to Setting Primordia
Pinhead initiation techniques should begin when the mycelium reaches the valleys of the casing surface. Once the mycelium is clearly established in the valleys, the cultivator can begin the first steps leading to the setting of pinheads. Within this one to two day period, the


1. Substrate and air temperatures are lowered to the fruiting range.
2. The humidity is maintained at the 95% level.
3. The carbon dioxide content of the room is reduced by the introduction of fresh air.
4. The room is lighted on a 12 hour on/off cycle.
Mycelium breaking through the casing surface early should be lightly sprinkled with moist casing. Uneven growth through the casing layer is usually an indication of a casing with irregular depths. By "patching" shallow areas, an even mycelial spread is assured. Note that the more even the distribution of the mycelium in the valleys of the casing's surface, the more even the pin-set and the greater the first and second flushes.
The exact time for initiation varies with the strain and according to the experience of the individual grower. Some strains continue to grow vegetatively for a period after the initial temperature shock whereas others stop immediately. For this reason, some cultivators initiate when 20% of the valleys show mycelial growth while others wait until 90% are run through with mycelium. Normally within 12-48 hours from the time the mycelium is first visible in the valleys, the initiation sequence is started.
The first step in the pinhead initiation process is to lower the substrate and air temperature from the mycelial growth optimum to the fruiting range. This temperature "shock" is accomplished by ventilation with a large volume of cool fresh air, thereby lowering the room's temperature to a point 5-20? below the optimum for spawn running. (For Agaricus brunnescens, this would mean dropping air temperature from 70 ?F. to 64 ?F.). Whatever the air temperature may be, the bed temperature is normally several degrees warmer. The length of time needed to affect this change is determined by the total volume of substrate and the temperature of the air being introduced. Within 48 hours, the substrate temperature should fall to fruiting temperatures, effectively slowing vegetative growth. This change signals to the mycelium that it is time to fruit.
Fresh air also removes high concentrations of carbon dioxide and other metabolic gases from the room. Since Agaricus brunnescens does not pin properly at CO2 concentrations above 2000 ppm, lowering the carbon dioxide content of the room's air to under 2000 ppm is critical. The inhibitory effect of carbon dioxide on mushroom formation gives Agaricus growers a high degree of control over the pinning process. Not until carbon dioxide is removed will pinheads form. If carbon dioxide levels remain high, the mycelium will totally cover the casing surface, a condition called overlay.
The mycelial mat formed by overlay makes the casing impervious to water and produces few pinheads. Overlay also occurs if the casing surface is too dry, the humidity (rH) is too low or the air temperature remains too high. Overlay can be counteracted by patching, but the cause must be diagnosed and carefully corrected if the culture is to be revived. Few flushes will be as great from a casing with overlay as from a casing properly managed.


Stage III: Primordia Formation (Knotting)
Once substrate temperatures have been lowered and CO2 levels have been reduced, primordia will begin to form. Maintain:


1. A constant fresh air supply to remove metabolic gases, and CO2 at levels less than 1000 ppm.
2. A constant temperature in the growing room that is within the fruiting range.
3. A relative humidity of 95%.
4. A 12 hour on/off light cycle.


The combination of temperature drop, high humidity and reduction of metabolic gases by a constant supply of fresh air now provides an environment conducive to pinhead formation. These parameters should be held constant until the pins are set. Any abrupt changes in temperature or humidity will be harmful to primordial growth. Pinhead initials form in the humid valleys of the casing layer and are visible as small knots of mycelium. This is the earliest stage of fruiting. Within five days these knots enlarge into small mounds or buttons that soon differentiate into mushrooms.
Due to slowed mycelial growth in the cooled substrate, carbon dioxide evolution is greatly reduced. Consequently, the fresh air supply can be moderated to the minimum level necessary to maintain 1000 ppm of carbon dioxide. At this time, oversupply of fresh air can lead to high evaporation rates and excessive drying. The humidity should never be allowed to fall below 90%. If dry air becomes a problem, a light misting of the casing surface, two to five times daily, should keep the microclimate moist. In fact, some growers knock down the mycelium with a forceful watering on the first day of initiation. Others mist daily as a standard practice. However, once pinning has begun, any forceful watering will kill a number of developing pins, and damage others. Given sufficient casing moisture and a high humidity, these watering practices become unnecessary.
Stage IV: Pinhead Development
After the pinheads have grown to pea size (3-5 mm.), their further development is primarily dependent on air temperature and relative humidity. To insure that they mature into healthy mushrooms, the

1. Air temperature is held constant within the fruiting range.
2. Relative humidity is lowered to 85-92%.<
3. A constant fresh air supply with CO2 below 2000 ppm
4. A 12 hour on/off light cycle

The humidity is lowered to 85-92%, thereby increasing the evaporation rate, an essential requirement for pinhead maturation. If humidity remains too high, pinhead development will be retarded. The easiest way to reduce humidity is to raise the air temperature by 1 -2 ?F. or to increase air movement within the room. Under no circumstances should pockets of stagnant air be allowed to form. Evaporation is negligible in stagnant air pockets which are also excellent breeding grounds for mushroom pathogens.
At this time, a slightly higher level of carbon dioxide is desirable (in the 1500-2000 ppm range) and fresh air can be cut back accordingly. Given proper CO2 levels, and sufficient evaporation, the pins continue to develop. The exact rate of growth depends on the air temperature in the room. Work done by Lambert (1938) has shown that a pinhead of Agaricus brunnescens with a diameter of 2 millimeters fully develops into a mature mushroom in twenty-two days at 50 ?F., in ten days at 60 ?F. and in six days at 70 ?F. Although mushrooms develop more quickly at 70 ?F., overall yields diminish. Optimum temperature for cropping in Agaricus brunnescens is 62-64?F.


--------------------
Pride is a Fool's Version of Wisdom
-Anonymous

"Don't study the idea to death with experts and committees. Get on with it and see if it works."

-Ken Iverson

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