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Kaydren
Mystic Hunter
Registered: 01/31/05
Posts: 106
Last seen: 13 years, 6 months
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More Casing ?'s
#4067920 - 04/18/05 05:00 AM (18 years, 11 months ago) |
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Using the search button, so dont yell at me! >_<
All the peat casing teks call for different pH buffers. Some say Horicultural Hydrated Lime, some say Calcium Carbonate, some say Oyster shell, and some say combinations of the 3... So Im asking, for a Sphagnum Peat Moss pH buffer, which would be better? Calcium Carbonate, Hydrated Lime, Crushed Oyster Shell, or does it have to be a combo of all 3?
---Thx Shroom gurus!
-------------------- ----I excel in not giving a shit...
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lonebuddha
whats it allabout?
Registered: 11/01/04
Posts: 255
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Re: More Casing ?'s [Re: Kaydren]
#4067943 - 04/18/05 05:35 AM (18 years, 11 months ago) |
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oyster shells is a source of calcium carbonate. you have a long term buffer and a short term buffer. hydrated lime is the short term buffer. It adjusts the ph of the casing immediately. over time though mycelium creates waste that lowers the ph of your casing this is where a long term buffer like calcium carbonate or oyster shells come in to play. I'd go with hydrated lime and one of the long term buffers, which ever one you find first. If its oyster shells, it would be best if its powdered. when adding lime it would be best to have some way to test the ph of the casing. If I'm not mistaken 7.5 is optimal.
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kronnyQ
SuperstudExtraordinaire
Registered: 07/22/04
Posts: 2,488
Loc: Anytown USA
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Re: More Casing ?'s [Re: lonebuddha]
#4067951 - 04/18/05 05:40 AM (18 years, 11 months ago) |
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Chances are you don't even need a buffer for your sphagnum, if it is good canadian sphag the pH will already be 7 which is optimal.
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Mindzpore
Psychedelicious
Registered: 04/05/05
Posts: 319
Loc: Reject the concept of loc...
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Re: More Casing ?'s [Re: kronnyQ]
#4067985 - 04/18/05 06:17 AM (18 years, 11 months ago) |
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what about ordinary bakingpowder? would that work?
-------------------- Mindzpores words of wisdom: "If you think something is foolproof, you just haven't met proper fools". Wiccan_Seeker said: "It is better to adjust to become a better listener than to keep on cranking up the volume".
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FleaAccela
Hip-HopEncyclopedia
Registered: 03/17/05
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Re: More Casing ?'s [Re: Mindzpore]
#4068617 - 04/18/05 12:35 PM (18 years, 11 months ago) |
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Quote:
Mindzpore said: what about ordinary bakingpowder? would that work?
that actually isnt a bad question. id like to know the same.
-------------------- I love rolling... my Katamari!!!
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Mindzpore
Psychedelicious
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Re: More Casing ?'s [Re: FleaAccela]
#4071640 - 04/19/05 06:06 AM (18 years, 11 months ago) |
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bump.
-------------------- Mindzpores words of wisdom: "If you think something is foolproof, you just haven't met proper fools". Wiccan_Seeker said: "It is better to adjust to become a better listener than to keep on cranking up the volume".
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agar
old hand
Registered: 11/21/04
Posts: 9,056
Loc: Somewhere Else
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Re: More Casing ?'s [Re: Kaydren]
#4071644 - 04/19/05 06:10 AM (18 years, 11 months ago) |
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Casing material pH & why it is important.
"pH", is a measure to describe the acidity of a medium. pH 7 is neutral; higher means alkaline, lower acidic.
Peat is a major constituent of preferred casing mixes. The pH of peat is variable, dependent on the source it came from. Meaning, the pH of peat differs from various sources.
The preferred pH range of a casing mixture is 6.5 to 8. 7.5 is optimal. Peat is acidic. Consequently, to achieve an optimal pH range of a casing mix, the pH of the casing mixture must be adjusted accordingly (within the range of 6.5 to 8).
The pH of the casing must be within certain limits to support strong mycelial growth. An overly acidic or alkaline casing mixture will depress mycelial growth and supports unwanted competitors.
It is generally easier to make casing materials more alkaline (i.e., increasing the pH) than it is to make them more acid (i.e., reducing the pH).
A movement of 0.5 is easy but, because the pH scale is logarithmic, a movement on the order of, 2.0 points becomes more difficult because there is a factor of 10x between each full point, so pH 5.0 is actually 100 times more acid than pH 7.0.
There are several common types of lime available for use, though care should be exercised with all of the products. Lime is caustic and a skin and eye irritant and can be dangerous if misused. If you choose to use such products, carefully read and follow all manufacturer directions exactly. The major types of lime products include:
Hydrated Lime: fast acting, but not long lasting. It is very effective to produce a fast change in pH level. It is also the "strongest" form of lime generally available, and you must follow all manufacturer precautions, since your skin and eyes can be easily irritated or burned if the product is misused.
Ground Limestone: a naturally occurring type of limestone that has been ground to a fine powder. How quickly it will act to modify pH and how long it will persist depends on how finely it was ground.
Generally, ground limestone is weaker than hydrated lime, needing about 30% more to raise the pH by the same amount. It has the advantage, however, of usually being significantly cheaper than the hydrated lime, and usually works more slowly and lasts much longer.
Mixed Lime: usually sold under a brand name. Most brands contain a variety of particle sizes to provide some immediate benefits, as well as a longer persistence. (this is often referred to as "time released" lime).
pH gradually falls to less than optimal by the end of cropping due to acids secreted by the mushroom mycelium. Consequently, a long lasting buffering agent is preferable.
If you wish to achieve optimal results, when adjusting pH? It is highly advisable to use litmus strips (with color chart), or acquire a pH test probe (available at most garden supply stores, under $20) to accurately test, and adjust the pH of your casing mix, prior to application.
Doing all other cultivation steps properly. Then, applying a casing mixture outside the proper pH range, most often creates poor cropping results.
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hyphae
born to grow
Registered: 12/13/02
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Re: More Casing ?'s [Re: agar]
#4072419 - 04/19/05 11:43 AM (18 years, 11 months ago) |
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-------------------- Getting the most out of your casings!, A pinning strategy. Oyster Shell "Flour" $2 for 1lb. a hell of a deal Not what is overlay but rather what overlay is Gas Exchange vs. FAE "We all have priorities. I used a closet once setup a nice little lab trouble was all the shit that was in there ended up in the bedroom that pissed off the GF then I ended up dumping her as she was getting in the way of my sterile culture technique! Ya I got priorities too!!!"
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Mindzpore
Psychedelicious
Registered: 04/05/05
Posts: 319
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Re: More Casing ?'s [Re: hyphae]
#4075879 - 04/20/05 05:07 AM (18 years, 11 months ago) |
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thank you agar, as always very thorough.
-------------------- Mindzpores words of wisdom: "If you think something is foolproof, you just haven't met proper fools". Wiccan_Seeker said: "It is better to adjust to become a better listener than to keep on cranking up the volume".
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crazytalken
SELECT
Registered: 04/06/05
Posts: 122
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Re: More Casing ?'s [Re: Mindzpore]
#4076479 - 04/20/05 10:22 AM (18 years, 11 months ago) |
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Does anyone know the pH of Jiffy Mix. Im using 50% verm 50% jiffy mix. How much adjustment is needed? Could this explain poor pin sets?
-------------------- **"Both the psychedelic dream state and the waking psychedelic state acquire great import because they reveal to life a task: to become familiar with this dimension that is causing being, in order to be familiar with it at the moment of passing from life." -Terence McKenna
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DK1
Registered: 11/21/04
Posts: 247
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Instead of using Hydrated Lime I am using Espoma Garden Lime, on the bag it says Safer Than Hydrated Lime Pelletized for Easy Application on the front and the lable reads, "New and Improved Espoma Garden Lime is the finest grade of pelletized, dolomitic limestone available. It's fine pellets spread easily, react quickly, and do not pose the hazards associated with hydrated lime." So this would also work as an alternative to hydrated lime and for calcium carbonate substitute I am using aquarium substrate that mainly consists of small shells. There's also something called calcisand or something like that for lizards and it contains a lot of calcium carbonate but it's way more expensive than the aquarium substrate.
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scatmanrav
Brainy Smurf
Registered: 05/08/04
Posts: 11,483
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Re: More Casing ?'s [Re: DK1]
#4076868 - 04/20/05 12:05 PM (18 years, 11 months ago) |
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Quote:
DK1 said: Instead of using Hydrated Lime I am using Espoma Garden Lime, on the bag it says Safer Than Hydrated Lime Pelletized for Easy Application on the front and the lable reads, "New and Improved Espoma Garden Lime is the finest grade of pelletized, dolomitic limestone available. It's fine pellets spread easily, react quickly, and do not pose the hazards associated with hydrated lime." So this would also work as an alternative to hydrated lime and for calcium carbonate substitute I am using aquarium substrate that mainly consists of small shells. There's also something called calcisand or something like that for lizards and it contains a lot of calcium carbonate but it's way more expensive than the aquarium substrate.
You'd probably do better using a different source of a buffer. Try oyster shell powder. What your using probably contains to much Mg...
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