Posted by Drugstore_Cowboy14 (05/03/17 10:09 AM)
Gonna try this out, I like automation thanks for the Tek
Posted by 86ericschwartz (06/15/15 10:38 PM)
[url=http://files.shroomery.org/files/15-25/442794254-20150616_000854.jpg][image]http://www.shroomery.org/forums/thumbs/15-25/442794254-thumb_20150616_000854.jpg[/image][/url]
 I'd made a fruiting chamber that is almost NO MAINTENANCE, it is a glass aquarium "terrarium". Plexiglass lid, drip shield, plexiglass tray for shrooms to site on, bubble stone in water for air in, modified air pump to pull co2 out.. just spray once a day. I've made this set-up 2month n no issues at all, i get 20 shrooms 2-3
Posted by Killstick69 (05/06/13 10:49 PM)
This sounds great, thanks for the info!
Posted by TelephonicEast (07/03/11 04:56 PM)
I just wanted to follow up on my post, having now had the setup for a while. IT'S AWESOME! EASY, CLEAN, effective. I would recommend it highly!
Posted by hotelvoodoo (06/13/11 09:32 AM)
I'm getting too much airflow as well! It's around 83% right now and around 80 degrees, but I too am going to stop the airpump for a few hours to see if that helps.  I'm really excited about using this tek, since we used the PF Tek last time and lost over a dozen cakes to green and cobweb mold. This tek just seems to be much cleaner. I have three cakes going in to the "mansion" today, so wish me luck!
Posted by PFunkadelic (01/19/08 08:22 PM)
I get too much airflow using this tek, lowering my humidity to 85-90%, so I cycle my pump on for a few hours a couple times a day instead of leaving it on.  No pins yet, so I can't really comment on it's effectiveness yet, but I like the setup so far.

Edit:  Also, two 25W blue lights raised the temperature from ~64F (My heater is broken) to around 83.  Too hot for ideal pinning conditions, and you don't want the lights on that much when you start growing.  I'm trying one bulb now, I'll try and remember to edit this when I get a good stable temperature.

In response to the first comment, I've never really researched it, but if I were going to build a hygrometer, I would build a bridge circuit to compare two thermisters (change resistance based on heat), one of which would be in a sealed environment with 0% humidity.  The enclosure would transfer heat very well to minimize temperature differences which do not result from humidity.  The thermister which is exposed to humidity would be exposed to a lower temperature due to the moisture on it's surface evaporating, and the difference in temperature, and therefore resistance, between the two thermisters would be directly proportional to the humidity content of the air being measured.  The scale would be set up empirically.  That's the only way I can think of building a hygrometer, and I would imagine at least basic ones are constructed in this manner.

And I don't know why you mentioned wire length at all, but unless you pull out a couple hundred feet of thin wire, your not going to affect the reading measureably.  Copper wire increases resistance at the rate of ~1.7 micro-ohms/ cm...insignificant.  I don't remember what gauge that number is for, but you get the idea.

Edited 1/19/2008 9:24 PM
Edited 1/19/2008 9:46 PM
Posted by meatcakeman (07/23/07 12:20 AM)
haha i like the last sentence

very nice
i will be trying this soon
Posted by SofaKingGood (07/10/07 04:04 PM)
This is the setup I use and I LOVE it. No complaints.
Posted by apokkalyps (10/06/06 12:57 AM)
I dont know how those humidity sensors work, probably some kind of transistor or variable resistor that limits the current flow across that wire depending on the moisture content.  If thats true, then adding wire to it could skew the reading by increasing the impedence on the wire and lowering the current.  Not sure how much of a problem this would cause, but to minimize the effects, use a low gauge (thick) wire and keep it as short as possible.