Posted by Fun.guy (10/16/16 03:21 PM)
Thank you so much.
Posted by spearsgary74 (03/04/15 08:19 PM)
I like it. 
Posted by MajikMaaan (06/01/14 08:47 PM)
I ended up finding hydrated lime(calcium hydroxide) at wal-mart in the canning section.. "mrs.wages pickling lime" ....took 10 bucks in gas to find that. might help someone
Posted by RossTmoney (07/24/13 09:47 PM)
I have inoculated some 40 jars with various strains (Golden Teachers, Thai, Colombian Rust, B ,Penis Envy, and Hawaiian) spores... I used both 1 pint rye substrate jars and 1 and 1/2 pint BRF substrate jars.. I am incubating at around 82-84 degrees and have set up my fruiting chamber. I understand the concept of the "dunk and roll" 100% if I were going to take my cakes dunk and roll them, put them upside down on a piece of aluminum foil in the fruiting chamber. But I want to use PF 50/50 casing Tek with the Peat Moss and Verm.. My Question is once they are done incubating and I dunk them if I plan on casing them should I skip the "roll stage"??? It doesn't seem to make sense to cover them in dry verm then put a casing layer over that... Does that seem logical?? I have looked up everything on everything and I cannot find this thread anywhere. So if you could give me some advice I would appreciate it. Thanks!
Edited 7/24/2013 11:47 PM
Posted by lunatuna (01/14/12 04:56 AM)
What kind of brands do you use for the calcium carbonate and the peat moss? And how would you pasteurize the peat / verm mixture?
Posted by Icesyn (08/03/11 04:49 PM)
One thing that I am unsure of is the peat moss for this tech. Around here, I can only find sphagnum peat moss. Is this ok for use?
Posted by mycellium (01/15/11 03:52 PM)
It's important to know that there is natural variation in pH. For instance, Vermiculite tends to be neutral-slightly alkaline, but depending on your source, it could be acidic, or extremely alkaline:  http://www.schundler.com/pH.htm

The same goes even more so for peat moss, which is a natural product and as such is subject to variation.

Do you need to test for pH each time you mix up a batch? I say no, but if you're having trouble you can't explain, this could be a place to start.
Posted by magicscrillamike (05/24/10 08:46 AM)
a little confused during

"As a general rule you do not want to mist your casing during this colonization period, provided you have adequate humidity and fresh air. The ideal humidity for casings is 82% -92%. The reason you don't want to mist your casing soil during this period is because water condensation build up on the mycelium is not good. It will slow down the growth of the mycelium and possibly introduce contaminants easier."

if it mists up on the sides, do you wipe down? dry?
Posted by Deej3987 (04/11/10 10:30 AM)
This is a pretty good tech, I have a few trays and one got a partially contaminated so i cut it out and put a fresh casing in place of it. Hopefully this works!
Posted by valleyboy (12/29/09 01:45 AM)
Fascinating, thank you!
Posted by FalconSun111 (10/22/09 02:34 AM)

Great tek!!! I will definatly put this knowledge to use in the near future, however I have a question. I recently constructed a shotgun terrarium for BRF cakes. My plan is to get a system going that works, harvest some fruit and then move onto bigger and better things like casings. Now from what I understand a shotgun terrarium built correctly and with a layer of perlite at the bottom creates100% humidity, now when dealing with casings as you also stated above you want your humidity to be somewhere between 82% and 92%. So my question to you is what can I do to modify my shotgun terrarium so that it is between 82% and 92% humidity? or if you know a better type of chamber or technique for casings that supports the proper humidity, what would that be?
Posted by _Silence_ (04/29/09 08:51 PM)
peat moss and vermiculite makes a perfect casing! PH buffed of course
Posted by shymanta (02/09/08 08:47 PM)
This tek is quite good.  I recomended it. However...

When I prepared casing material with the above recipe, I squeezed out 5 1/2 cups of water to achieve field capacity.  I have adjusted my notes and shell use maybe 10 cups of water next time. 

Your mileage may vary.  Keep good notes and you'll come to what works best for you.

Edited 2/9/2008 10:49 PM
Posted by drwatson (10/29/07 11:46 PM)
I plan on using this method for my first attempt!  
Posted by Craighead (10/29/07 10:37 AM)
I also had excellent success using this method. Wonderful Tek and much appreciated.
Posted by jdtwelve (10/17/07 01:35 PM)
I have had great success using only Perlite underneath the first layer of colonized substrate. I put about an inch of perlite soaked with Hydrogen Peroxide in the bottom of my casing.  The top layer is all vermiculite (about 3/4 of an inch) and I've had great success!

Thanks for the comments