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OfflineBPEmpire
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Registered: 09/30/08
Posts: 22
Last seen: 10 years, 8 months
Spore to Rye to Pre-Pasteurized Manure Based Growing Substrate in Spawn Bags (Mycobags) * 1
    #9011169 - 09/30/08 11:10 PM (15 years, 5 months ago)


10/01/08: First post. Now, I don't claim to be a professional at this stuff or anything. In fact, I have very little experience besides a few attempts a couple years ago. I have just been doing a bunch of reading, really. I wrote a procedure for myself and people in similar conditions. A lot of it is just coming from other methods, other parts are coming from what people have told me on #cultivation, and some of it might be a misinterpretation of the above. I am actually posting this procedure to get feedback from you guys. Please tell me what you think. Now, I don't want to have to make an entirely new procedure, but if you see any parts where I am wrong please correct me or insult me or whatever. Just let me know. I plan on editing this post every time I get a correction.

Edit 01/14/09: So I had the right idea for the most part but changed chunks of the main procedure to be more accurate based on what I have learned. Hawaiians yielded very well with multiple flushes when following my initial procedure written in 2008, while it did take longer than normal (compared to other grows I have seen on this site). In any event, I will continue to edit this as I figure things out to be different than stated, since I am sure the current procedure isn't perfect.

Edit 01/09/13: Time to make this more up to date. Updating info, links, etc.

Alright here it is:


Growing Psilocybe Cubensis

Before I get started I want to clarify that this was written for the average Joe and not necessarily the large scale grower. You should read this document entirely and thoroughly before you decide to go off and do this. Anyways, I’ve been doing quite a bit of research in the methods of mushroom cultivation on and off for the past year or so, and have examined several ways of going about doing it.  I’ve found some methods to be better than others,  some to be less work than others, and so on.  They all have their ups and downs I suppose but what I am going to write here is what I found to be the most effective and efficient way to grow mushrooms as a lower scale grower (no labs, grow rooms, terrariums, etc), and to be honest the most appealing in my opinion. This is a pretty long read, so I will cut to the chase and start from the beginning. Warning: this is NOT the PF Tek method. Yes the PF Tek is simpler and more idiot proof, but I believe this method of cultivation will give you better results and larger yields in the long-run so long as you don’t deviate from the recipe. If you do want the PF Tek instead, just look it up online.

To start, here’s a brief explanation of the mushroom life cycle. A live mature mushroom has gills under its cap. These gills holster billions of microscopic spores which are dropped over time. In nature the wind carries these spores to other places. When they meet a substrate they like with the right consistency (such as wet vermiculite, rye grains, wood, manure, etc), they will germinate and spread white cottony/stringy material called mycelium throughout this substrate. After a while that mycelium will knot up and start forming pins, and some of those pins will mature and grow into large healthy mushrooms. When the mushrooms mature, the veil that attaches the cap to the stem will eventually tear and the cap will continue to open up, exposing the gills. Again spores are produced under the cap, and so with these spores the mushroom life cycle can continue. Now these phases of mycelium spreading and mushroom fruiting are aided with certain triggers and conditions, and you as the cultivator will be in control of this. In our case, we will be cultivating with the species known as Psilocybe Cubensis, so we will be using methods that are proven to work with that particular species. That being said, the conditions for mycelium colonization is high humidity, gas exchange (release of built up CO2 gases), and a moist (as in not sopping wet) and nutritious substrate. Triggers for fruiting are a mild drop in humidity, the introduction of light, increased fresh air exchange, and, for cultivated mushrooms, a fully colonized substrate. Notice I didn't mention temperature drop. It has been proven that this isn't necessary, despite claims in the past. Note that the optimal temperature for colonizing and fruiting cubensis mushrooms is 74-78F, so basically room temperature. Thermal death for cubensis mycelium starts around 95/96 (I believe). Also, there are many different strains of Psilocybe Cubensis such as B+, Pink Buffalo, Ecuadorian, Hawaiian, Penis Envy, Golden Teacher, etc. I will be using the Hawaiian strain for this procedure. Some strains have been said to work better than others for this method I will be describing. For example I have had much success with the Hawaiian strain, but very little success with the Ecuadorian strain. Your results may vary.

A general description of how this procedure is structured is as follows:

1) Obtain the materials
2) Prepare grain in jars and sterilize the jars
3) Inoculate the sterilized grain jars with spores
4) Allow the grain jars to fully colonize with mycelium
5) Spawn the colonized grain jars to manure based mushroom growing substrate in spawn bags (mycobags)
6) Allow the bags to fully colonize with mycelium
7) Wait for the mushrooms to mature and harvest when ready
8) Select caps for creating spore prints/syringes (optional)
9) Dry the mushrooms

Getting Started

There are several tools you will need right off the bat. One of the more important tools is a pressure cooker. A pressure cooker is used to sterilize, which is VERY important in mushroom cultivation to prevent contaminants (unless you don’t mind getting spinal meningitis or handling deadly black molds). Now, pressure cookers can cost around 70-90 bucks and a top-of-the-line one can cost up to 300. Pretty steep but very important. A 15.5 QT All American brand pressure cooker costs around $160 dollars on amazon.com which is a hell of a deal for a brand new one (fits eight pint jars). If you want to grow mushrooms without a pressure cooker look up the PF Tek, but don't expect spectacular results. PF Tek without a pressure cooker generally works about half the time, to give you an idea.

Now’s where the fun begins. Here are the materials needed at this point. I will organize by stores where the materials can be found:

Amazon.com: All American (or Presto) brand pressure cooker. I bought the All American 910. It fits 8 pint jars.

Target: strainer that is roughly 10" diameter or more, large pot for boiling, clear storage bin roughly 3'x2'x2' (grab lid too, can be opaque), duct tape, aluminum foil, lighter, isopropyl alcohol, hydrogen peroxide, hand sanitizer, face masks, disposable latex gloves, band aids, cotton balls, clothes pins, zip-lock sandwich bags (optional, for making spore prints and syringes).

Home Depot: two empty spray bottles, paper sized plexiglass window, two 5 gallon buckets.

USPS Office or Office Supply Store: tyvek express or priority mail envelopes.

Mycosupply: 5-10 lb bag of organic rye grain (your local feed store should also have this for cheap).

Menard's (or Ace Hardware): 12 1 pint wide mouth mason jars (plumbing section, wouldn't hurt to get a box or two of wide mouth jar lids as well in case the others get rusted), hammer + nail or power drill with set of drill bits.

Out-Grow.com: empty sterile syringes with needles, petri dishes (syringes and petri dishes are optional, for making spore prints), pair of tyvek sleeves, 1 lb manure based mushroom growing substrate in filter patch bags (store in freezer if not ready for immediate use). buy as many of these as you need, the ratio is 2 pint jars to one 1 lb mix in filter patch bag (otherwise known as a mycobag). since we are preparing 8 jars, we will need 4 of these 1 lb mycobags.

Spore Vendor: one or two cubensis spore syringes - as mentioned before I will be using the Hawaiian strain, so you might want to get that strain too as it is one of the strains that works well with the mycobag method. please use the sponsors for this site for spore syringes. there is one popular vendor that accepts cash or money order only which i highly recommend (google "ralphster").

So figure a rough estimate of $200-300. Yeah, that’s a significant chunk of money, but you can get a friend involved to help you out with funds if it's an issue. Also, a lot of this stuff only needs to be bought once, so that will go a long way. Furthermore if you are willing enough to spend that much money on this hobby, you will probably do whatever it takes to get this to work.

Sterility

As I said before, sterility is very important in mushroom cultivation. There is a reason for this. When we prepare our substrate, we prepare it as a substrate that our spores will favor and want to take hold in order to spread mycelium. The problem is, this same substrate is favorable for thousands of other kinds of molds and bacteria. If those other mold spores get in contact with the substrate along with our mushroom spores, then it is considered contaminated and must be disposed of. The idea behind this is our mushroom fungus as well as other mold and bacteria just want to survive and will do whatever they can to do so. This turns out to be a conflict when two different things are growing in the same substrate jar. Basically, it does us no good to have a jar with a patch of mold on it. So, you want to do whatever you can to keep potential contaminants away from the mushroom mycelium and spores. This would include wearing latex gloves, a face mask, and cleaning surfaces you will be touching with alcohol, flame sterilizing metallic equipment (syringes), wiping equipment/surfaces down with alcohol soaked paper towels. Do whatever you need to do. Contaminants are airborne, can be on your skin, clothes, hair, tools, etc. Some people go as far as using HEPA filters and exhaust fans, but as a home grower this is rather impractical. A cheap alternative is to make a glove box (still air box), which is basically a box with holes in the side to put your arms through and an openable window on top. You open the top window of the glove box, spray the inside with alcohol spray and wipe down, put all your stuff in (IE jars, syringe, and alcohol soaked cotton balls), close the window, put your hands in the tyvek sleeved holes and do your work while watching through the overhead window. In the next section we will go over how to create a glove box. Even after taking all these precautions, you will still get the occasional contamination - especially if you’re a home grower like most. So, keep a vigilant eye and nose. Anything that isn’t white or the color of the substrate is probably a contaminant, with the exception that the mushrooms bruise blue when handled or bump against anything. Stalled colonization can also be a hint of a contamination (or insufficient gas exchange). Non visible contaminants can have a very strong garbage/vomit-like smell to them, and can sometimes permeate a room pretty easily. The strong smell is a good enough heads up. Don’t go trying to breathe the stuff or you’ll end up with a possible lung infection, or worse. A sniff is good enough. If a jar contaminates, it cannot be saved and MUST be disposed of. It is a potential hazard to both you and your cultures. Just dispose of it into a garbage bag, tie it up, and get rid of it jar and all. Jars are cheap and I don't think are worth salvaging. For future reference, mycelium and mushrooms smell very earthy and shroomy, so look for that. You'll know what I mean when you smell it.

Glove Box

All you need to make a glove box is a clear storage bin with lid, a plexiglass window, tyvek sleeves, and some duct tape. First, put your lid on the storage bin and flip it upside down so the lid is facing down. This is how your glove box will sit. Since the storage bin is clear, you can clearly see through the glove box at any angle and the inside will be well lit. Next, we will cut a rectangular hole on top of the glove box. This will be a couple inches shorter than both dimensions of your plexiglass sheet. For instance, my plexiglass sheet was cut down to 14"x10", so I cut a 12"x8" hole on top. Next, place the plexiglass on the glove box so it is centered with respect to the hole. Take your duct tape and put a strip down that halfway overlaps one of the long edges of the plexiglass and overlaps the tub with the other half of the duct tape. This will serve as a hinge for the plexiglass. Flip the plexiglass window up and do the same thing under the seam so the hinge is "double sided". Next we will try to create a "seal" for the remaining three edges of the plexiglass to prevent moving air from getting underneath the plexiglass and into the glove box while closed. Take a piece of duct tape so that it flaps over one of the three remaining edges of the plexiglass. Fold the strip into half its width so the tape sticks on the top and bottom of the plexiglass edge. When doing this, make sure the duct tape sticks out a decent amount so when the duct tape is folded in half you will have a "flap". This flap is what will help to slightly seal your glove box from outside air when the window is closed. Create a seal on the two remaining edges of the plexiglass. Next you want to create the arm holes. Cut two 3-4 inch diameter holes spaced roughly 18 inches on center from each other on one of the long sides of the storage bin, preferably the side that isn't nearest to the plexiglass hinge. Check to make sure the holes fit for your forearms. In the holes you will tape your pair of tyvek sleeves. The end of the tyvek sleeves will be duct taped into place and the sleeves themselves will extend into the glove box. Cover the seams with tape where the arm holes meet the tyvek sleeves so outside air cannot easily leak into the glove box in this region. Search "glove box" on Google Images to see examples of decent glove boxes to give you an idea of what it should look like. Your glove box will basically look like a cheap version of what you see. Your glove box will also not have attached gloves interestingly enough. Instead, you will put on disposable latex gloves and slide your arms through the tyvek sleeves to do your sterile work. That's it, you now have a working and durable glove box. I mostly made this glove box design up based on seeing what professional glove boxes look like. I just came up with a cheap version that would work for our application. There are other glove box designs available on this website if you don't like mine. I will say though, that I rarely get a contaminant using my glove box (personally I believe any contaminant I've had was a result of something surviving the pressure cooking due to not rinsing the grain well enough).

Organic Rye Grain Method

This method allows for a very fast mycelium growth rate. You aren’t looking to get cakes in this method, you are just looking to spread mycelium in bulk so that you can use it to set up mycobags (or alternatively, casings) - which is what will ultimately yield your mushrooms. That comes later though. We are going to prepare 8 pint jars, so make sure you have a pressure cooker that can hold that many at once. First, get your bag of rye grain and your mason jars. Scoop out about two and a half pints of grains and put them in a bucket. Fill the bucket with HOT water. After that, skim off any floating stuff and discard whatever you catch. Agitate the grain so more stuff floats to the top and skim that off as well. Repeat this process until most of the debris and what not stops floating to the top. Let the grains soak in the dark** overnight. Rye grain contains a lot of bacteria, so by allowing the grains to soak for 24 hours with hot water you allow those bacteria spores to start germinating. Bacteria spores can survive pressure cooking if you don’t allow them an attempt to germinate first. During this 24 hour wait you can prepare your lids and tyvek. Take the lids and poke two holes in the lid – one small one for breather (use a nail or small drill bit, I recommend drill bit) and one larger one (about the size of a dime) for a general area for the syringe to go. I generally put the big hole right in the middle. When making these holes I typically stack the lids and drill through a bunch of them simultaneously, as that saves a lot of time. You will need a piece of tyvek for each jar that is the same size and shape as the jar lid (trace the lid on the envelope and cut it out). The tyvek will act as a filter for gas exchange and to keep contaminants out. After 24 hours the water you used to soak should have some color change in it. This is proof of whatever bad stuff was already in there. Dump all your grain into a relatively large strainer. Run water over it and rinse well. When done rinsing all the grain put it in a large pot (or two medium sized pots) that is filled almost to the top with water. Make sure there is a couple inches of gap between the top of the grains and the top of the water level. The grains will expand in size significantly from this next step and will need the extra water and room to grow. Simmer the grain (NOT boil) and stir occasionally for 40-45 minutes. While you're simmering, you should sanitize your mason jars with alcohol soaked paper towels if they aren't clean at this point (pressure cooker will take care of whatever the alcohol doesn't get). If you haven't used the jars before then you're probably fine to use right out of the box. Turn off the stove when the grain is ready, put the grain through the strainer to get rid of the hot water, and rinse the grain VERY well this time with warm or cold water. Shake the grain in the strainer for a bit until there's only a couple drips coming from the bottom. A good rule of thumb of knowing that your grain is dry enough is checking to see if they stick to each other. If they don't stick to each other much, they are ready. Another rule of thumb is when you distribute the grain to the jars you shouldn't see a noticeable pool of water at the bottom of the jar (a tiny amount is okay though). Evenly distribute your grain to your jars. Leave enough empty space at the top of the jar to allow you to shake and agitate the grain. Place the lids on top of the jars with the rubber seal facing up. Put your piece of tyvek over the lid and screw the rings on (tyvek will be pinched in between lid and ring) but don't tighten them up too much. Just thread the ring until it stops spinning. Now mark on the tyvek approximately where the big hole for the syringe is with a dot. Repeat for each jar. Cover the jars with aluminum foil on top and just wrap it over so the foil extends about an inch below the bottom of the mason jar ring. Put the rack in your pressure cooker. At this point I like to put 7 jars and use the empty space to fill with water. I usually stop filling when the water level reaches just under an inch and a half up the jars. After that I put in the 8th jar. If you have a bigger pressure cooker and have space, I suggest putting in empty pint jars as placeholders so that the other jars won't tip over (that is, unless you wanted to prepare more rye jars at once). Set up your pressure cooker for use (read the manual if you haven't used it before, depending on the pressure cooker this could be a little more complicated than you think) and cook the jars for 90 minutes @ 15PSI. Start your countdown when you reach 15PSI. Turn off the stove when 90 minutes have passed and let the jars sit in the pressure cooker overnight to cool so you can inoculate in the morning or the next night. DO NOT open the pressure cooker after turning off the heat as there is still pressure and scalding hot steam built up in there. You should also wait until the pressure gauge reads zero before you attempt to move it (about a half hour after you turn off the heat). For inoculation you want to wait at least 8 hours after pressure cooking because if you inoculate a substrate jar when it’s too hot then the spores will probably die from the high temperatures. So, pressure cooking at night and waiting overnight to inoculate is usually best.

**Why soak in the dark? Well, quick story. I soaked some grain out in the open once for a grain to grain transfer. After 24 hours of soaking the grain smelled like vomit. Still smelled like vomit after pressure cooking. End result 7 out of 8 jars contaminated. Moral of the story soak in the dark and throw out the grain if it smells like vomit after soaking. Don't waste your time. Even the pressure cooking won't help if it smells foul after soaking.

Inoculation Via Spore Syringe

You are now ready to inoculate. Sterility is important in this step so make sure your working area is clean (a non carpeted room is ideal). Some people swear by using disinfecting spray like Lysol or Ozium but I've found that filling a spray bottle 50/50 with isopropyl alcohol and water works just as well and is way cheaper. Have your pressure cooker, a lighter, some band aids, hand sanitizer, isopropyl alcohol (pure store bought as well as your spray bottle), paper towels, and cotton balls within the work area. Remove items in the room that don't need to be there, close windows/vents in the room and turn off any ceiling fans, wipe all working surfaces with alcohol soaked paper towels or a bleach solution, and spray the inside and outside of glove box with your alcohol spray. Wipe off the alcohol spray with a paper towel and close the glove box. Rub your hands with hand sanitizer and put your gloves and mask on. After your latex gloves are on apply hand sanitizer to those too. Lay down a couple of paper towels next to the glove box. Put the band aids in this general area too. Take a jar out of your pressure cooker and dab the bottom of the jar on the dry paper towels you laid down. Remove the aluminum foil and set it aside. Take the jar and quickly put it in the glove box via the hinged door on top. Repeat this for all 8 jars. Wipe your gloved hands with an alcohol soaked paper towel or hand sanitizer. Soak about 8 cotton balls in alcohol (regarding the cotton balls I actually take an oral syringe filled with alcohol and some dry cotton balls and put them the glove box, so I can soak cotton balls as I need them). Open the glove box and put in the cotton balls, the lighter, the hand sanitizer, and the spore syringe. Side note don't put your bottle of rubbing alcohol in there. (We will be using a lighter. Lighter + alcohol = lots of fire.) Put your hands in the two holes of the glove box and slide them in until your gloved hands are sticking out of the ends of the tyvek sleeves. You are now ready to begin working in your sterile, still-air glove box. Wipe your gloved hands with hand sanitizer again. Uncap and shake the syringe to get the spores moving in the syringe. Flame sterilize the tip of your syringe needle for 5-10 seconds and wipe with an alcohol soaked cotton ball. Take a jar and penetrate the tyvek lid where you put the dot earlier, inject 1.5ccs of fluid (assuming you have a 12cc syringe), and pull it out. Repeat for however many other jars you decided to prepare (in our instance, we prepped 8). Set that jar aside. Repeat for all jars. Flame sterilize and wipe the needle with an alcohol soaked cotton ball after inoculating each jar, as to prevent a possible cross contamination between jars. Wipe your hands occasionally with hand sanitizer between jars too. When you’re all done inoculating the jars you shouldn't have any fluid left in the syringe, but if you do then flame sterilize your needle and put the cap back on (otherwise just throw the syringe out). Pull your hands out of the glove box and remove your latex gloves. Prepare your band aids for use. Open the glove box, take a jar out, and close the glove box. Put a band aid over the puncture hole on the tyvek lid and set the jar aside. Do this for all of your jars. When finished with that, shake all of the jars very well to agitate the grain and distribute the spores throughout the grain. Take a sharpie and label each tyvek lid with the date (with room to post more dates) and also the name of the strain. Then, take your jars and put them wherever you intend to have them colonize. I like to put them in a place where they get indirect sunlight such as on a clean floor area in the corner of a room or on the shelf of an open closet. As long as it is room temperature with a bit of light (not bright and not complete darkness) you should be fine. If you are at optimal temperatures
(74-78F) you should see signs of growth within a few days to a week, at which point I like to mark the jar again with the date that I first see growth in which jar. Some people (I used to as well) shake the grain up when the jars are about 25% colonized, and then shake again when they are around 50-75% colonized. These days I feel as though shaking them once in the beginning is enough to put the spores in random parts throughout the jars. After that I just leave them alone until they are done colonizing. Colonization will probably take around 2-3 weeks. I've had jars take shorter and longer than that so it just depends. As you get more experienced the colonization time does tend to decrease though. At this point if you don't have all your materials yet (mycobags particularly) now would be the time to order them.

Spawn Bags (Mycobags)

I was really impressed when I first saw this method. It requires little work and yields a significant amount of mushrooms, which is perfect for the home grower. At this point your jars of rye should be fully colonized. For this you will need your unopened mycobags of manure based mushroom growing substrate from out-grow.com. Note that you might not spawn all your jars at the same time since some jars probably will have colonized faster than others. For each mycobag of 1 lb growing substrate, you will take 2 pint jars and mix them in thoroughly. To do this just open two colonized jars, cut the top of the bag open just below the seal, and dump the contents of the jars into the bag. From the outside of the bag, thoroughly massage the colonized grain into the growing substrate. When finished, fold the top of the bag over a few times and clip on two clothes pins. You can also seal it by some other means if you want but I've found this to be easiest. Just remember to leave some air in the bags so they are somewhat inflated to make room for growing mushrooms. For each bag I use the filter patch to label the date that I spawned the jars to the bags, the strain used, and I identify each of the bags by a number. In this instance I would identify the bags as 1, 2, 3, and 4, all Hawaiian, with their respective spawn dates. I do this because I like to collect data of the wet and dry weight of each flush I harvest so I can monitor how well I'm improving as time progresses and see which bags are doing well. Store the bags upright in the same area as your jars for 1-2 weeks to colonize. You can tell a bag is done colonizing when the top surface (where the mushrooms will sprout from) is mostly white. After the bags are put away, wash your jars in the kitchen sink with soap and water and store them for future use.

Fruiting/Harvest

Your bags should be fully colonized at this point. As mentioned before, yield can be maximized by two simultaneous triggers: the introduction of light and increased fresh air exchange. For the introduction of light, take the colonized bags and set them out near an open window. I advise against closets as that tends to make mushrooms less meaty and healthy looking, but I leave that to you. If you can't put it by a window for light, use a 5500K white fluorescent bulb with good intensity (Home Depot) 12 hours on 12 hours off to give the bags light. Fresh air exchange is taken care of by the filter patch on the spawn bag and the open window. An indirect ceiling fan is good too if you can't open the window to get the air in the room moving. If you are still concerned with a lack of free air exchange at this point you can cut a few one inch slits into the bag and stuff them with some polyfill, available at out-grow.com. After about a week you will develop pins. After that just keep a close watch because you will be harvesting soon. A tip when harvesting is wait for the veil between the stem and cap to begin to tear. This is said to be when the mushroom is at it’s highest potency relative to its mass (a debatable topic, however). Now, it has been disputed whether to harvest as they mature or to harvest all at once. I used to think that it was best to harvest as they mature while being careful not to harm the other younger fruits. However, I feel now that it is more practical to harvest all at once. Harvesting larger fruits tends to pull out smaller fruits with them anyway so you aren't really saving much. One thing I will say though is you should try to harvest before the mushroom caps open up wide and drop a ton of spores, otherwise it gets to be quite a mess (remember, each mushroom drop billions of spores). If it does get messy with spores, you can wipe the mushrooms with a wet paper towel to remove the spores and make it less unsightly. The decision whether to harvest all at once or as they mature is up to you (you won't be disappointed either way), but for this procedure we will be harvesting all at once. Anyways, take off the clothes pins to proceed with harvesting. For harvesting I like to pull out the whole mycelium mass with the mushrooms altogether out of the bag and onto a plate (don't break the big clump of mycelium when pulling it out! be careful!). We are not too worried about contaminants at this point because the mycelium and mushrooms are strong and well established. Still, stay clean as always. Note that psilocybe cubensis bruises blue when handled, so don’t think this is some kind of weird contaminant. Also, don't pull the mushrooms. Twist or pivot them off at the base instead. As you remove each mushroom, take your fingernail and remove any leftover substrate stuck to the bottom of the mushroom and discard. We want clean mushrooms without stuff stuck on the bottom of the stem. You’re now ready to dry your first harvest (or flush) of mushrooms, but before we do that I want to point out why we decided to remove the whole mass of mycelium with the mushrooms instead of just leaving the mycelium mass in the bag and plucking the visible mushrooms. Well there's a couple of reasons. First reason is any bag is pretty much guaranteed to get side pinning and mushrooms that come out the side and press against the bag, which can't be reached without taking the whole mycelium mass out. The other reason, is it gives us the opportunity to dunk the mass of mycelium in cold water for 24 hours to rehydrate. This will allow us to flush each bag multiple times and get a good yield for each flush. To do this, simply fill a 5 gallon bucket with cold water about 1/2 to 2/3 the way full. Put your mycelium mass in the water and use a good sized round dinner plate to completely submerge the mass. Since the bucket is tapered, the sides of the plate will catch the sides of the bucket at some point and become wedged. This will keep the mass underwater by itself for 24 hours. After that I remove the dinner plate and put the mycelium mass on another plate to drip dry a bit. I dump the water from the bucket down the toilet and rinse the bucket in the bathtub and set the bucket aside for future use. The mycelium mass should be done drip drying at this point so we put it back in its original bag. We also spray the bag with a spray bottle that is a mix of 1 part peroxide to 10 parts water (peroxide helps clean the mycobag up a bit). I usually spray the inside of the bag about 8 times with a strong squeeze of the handle to create a strong mist. Put the clothes pins back on and put the bag back where it was. A side note is I usually harvest two bags at a time so when I dunk I use two separate buckets - one for each mycelium mass. If you are going to do this just remember to put the masses back in their original bags in case you are collecting data, otherwise your data will get mixed up. After dunking, the next two flushes in a bag are pretty comparable to the first flush. After that they tend to diminish. You can get up to around 5 flushes for a single bag, depending. You can tell a bag is ready to be thrown out when the bottom of the mycelium mass gets sort of slimy to the touch and there are only a few weak mushrooms that sprout out of the mass for the final flush.

Drying

You can do this by putting the mushrooms on a screen and blowing an office fan or ceiling fan in their general direction. Desiccant is sometimes recommended to dry mushrooms, but when you have a lot of mushrooms it is rather impractical as desiccant tends to get saturated pretty easily. Leaving the mushrooms out on a screen or plate for a few days is fine. A dry mushroom should be cracker dry (or at least pretty close). Try to snap one of the mushrooms in half. If it breaks pretty clean and doesn’t bend all the way instead then your mushrooms are dried and ready to store away in a bag or whatever. Congratulations, you did it! Get a scale and see how much you have.

General Overview

I set the above procedure up so that the reader could try the method once over and get successful results. At this point the reader should have learned to cultivate from spores to colonized rye to spawn bags to fruits. However, based on what was explained about the mushroom life cycle earlier, this cycle is incomplete. In order to complete this cycle we need to get spores again, which as mentioned before come from the caps. Since not everyone may want to complete the cycle and go through the grow process multiple times for whatever reason, I added an optional additional information section. In that section are multiple ways to stay in a state of constant growth if one so desired. In any event, just remember to stay as sterile as you can and keep a vigilant eye and nose for contaminants throughout your work if and when you get them. Special thanks again to the folks at shroomery.org. Peace.

                                                                                                    -BPEmpire


Additional Information:

Spore Print

Taking a spore print is as simple as letting a cap drop spores on a square piece of aluminum foil. At this point we will need a healthy mushroom specimen, our glove box, latex gloves, hand sanitizer, a needle, a pint jar, aluminum foil, paper towels, a CD jewel case, a sharp non serrated knife, alcohol, and a petri dish. If you don't have petri dishes, then a rocks glass for liquor works well too. I actually prefer a rocks glass because they are taller and not flimsy enough to fall over when carried. Petri dishes are shorter but can be stacked so, your call. The purpose of the petri dish/rocks glass is to protect the print from contaminants while the spores drop from the cap. A side note, I recommend you take prints at the same time you intend to harvest a batch of them. First we want to prepare some squares of aluminum about 4" X 4". Before that though, preheat the oven to 500F (250C). Put on some latex gloves and put on some hand sanitizer so you don't get finger prints on the aluminum. If you're using a 12" roll of aluminum you can just roll out 4" worth and cut that strip into thirds. Prepare about 12 squares. Stack the squares and put them in the pint jar. You may have to flex them a bit to fit, but try not to deliberately fold them in half. When finished, cover the jar opening with aluminum foil like we would with our grain jars, only this time we won't be using the jar lid and ring. When the oven is done preheating put the jar of aluminum squares into the oven for an hour. Go ahead and take your latex gloves off as it will be a while before you will be handling anything project related. Turn the oven off when finished and open the oven door so the jar can cool and be handled quicker. When you are able, remove the jar with an oven mitt and place out in the open so it can cool even quicker. When it is cool to the touch we are ready to proceed. At this point we should also get our tools together and ready. Go ahead and put your latex gloves back on. Take your CD jewel case and wrap it in a paper towel like a birthday gift. It won't make a complete wrap but just make sure the top surface is completely covered in paper towel. This is the portable surface where we will place the spore print on top of. Clean the glove box with alcohol spray as you normally would and wipe it down. Put the wrapped CD jewel case, a few paper towels, rubbing alcohol, knife, needle, 6" X 6" square of aluminum, petri dish (or rocks glass), and jar of now sterilized aluminum squares in your glove box and close the glove box lid. Put the large square of aluminum by itself since this will be the temporary spot where we put our harvested mushroom. Take a look in your mycobag and locate which mushroom you think would be best for a print. What you are looking for is a mushroom whose veil just tore. Veils that have been open too long make for weak prints. Open the bag and pull the mushroom from its base. Quickly move it into the glove box and place it on top of that 6" X 6" aluminum square. Close the glove box. Put your hands in the arm holes. Apply hand sanitizer to your gloved hands. Wipe your knife with an alcohol soaked paper towel and cut the stem from the cap. You want to cut as close as you can to where the cap meets the stem. Put the stem aside and have the cap lay there upside down (we will lay the stem out for drying after we are done here). Take the petri dish or rocks glass and clean out the inside surfaces with an alcohol soaked paper towel. Rub on some more hand sanitizer. Open your jar of sterile aluminum squares, pull out a square, and close the jar back up. Place the aluminum square on top of the wrapped CD jewel case with its shiny side up. Place the cap with the gills facing down and centered on top of the aluminum square. Using the needle should make this task a bit easier for you as the top of the cap is a bit too slimy to grasp. Place your petri dish or rocks glass upside down on top, and make sure that the rim is only in contact with the aluminum foil. Take your arms out of the glove box. Open the top of the glove box and carefully remove your soon to be print. Place it wherever you like so it may drop its spores onto the aluminum foil. After about 48 hours your print should be ready. Take note that you don't have to do just one print in the glove box at a time. I usually do about 3 prints in the glove box at a time. I'll do that twice to get a total of 6 prints. If you wanted to do 6 prints you would need 6 wrapped jewel cases, 6 sterile aluminum squares, and 6 petri dishes or rocks glasses, and 6 ideal mushrooms for creating 6 prints. At this point I could tell you what you would need to do to store the spore print you made, but instead I am going to go into detail on how to make a spore syringe. You may be interested in knowing how to store a print though and might not necessarily want to create a spore syringe. Whether you intend to store a print or create a spore syringe, the information for both is contained in the following chapter.

Spore Syringe

If you intended to make spore syringes then you will need a new unused syringe with needle (one syringe for every print you made). As a note you will need about three hours of cooling time for the prepared syringe before you can use it, so if you want to prepare the syringe on the same day you make the print then that would work. Take a pot of water and start boiling it. Twist the needle onto the syringe. When the water is boiling, suck the water into the syringe and let it sit for 5 minutes. Do this for however many syringes you want to prepare. After 5 minutes eject the first syringe back into the pot of boiling water and suck boiling water into the syringe again and let it sit another five minutes. Do this for your other syringes if applicable. Repeat this process a third and final time. Make sure this time the syringe is filled all the way with little to no air bubbles. Flame the tip of your syringe or syringes and cap the needle. You now have sterilized syringes. The syringes will be cool and ready by the time the spore prints are ready. Jumping a bit into the future, its been 48 hours since you placed the cap on the foil to make the spore print so your spore print should be ready. You want pretty much the same equipment as the last chapter, plus a pair of scissors, an unopened ziplock bag, sterile syringe that you made, lighter, and minus the jar of aluminum squares. Put your latex gloves on and spray the inside and outside of the glove box with your alcohol spray and wipe it down. Put all of your equipment and new spore print (carefully) into the glove box. Put your hands into the glove box and use some hand sanitizer when you get in there. Wipe your scissors down with an alcohol soaked paper towel. Take your petri dish or rocks glass off of the print. Use the pin to remove the mushroom from the aluminum foil and put it to the side (this cap can be put out for drying later). On the aluminum foil you should see a dark print of spores. Cut the foil square into a smaller square with the scissors. The edges of the smaller square should run pretty close to tangent with the round outer circle of the print. Keeping the spores on the inside, fold the print in half down the center of the print and wipe the outside surface of the foil with an alcohol soaked paper towel**. Unfold the foil and place in the ziplock bag. Keeping some air in the bag, close the bag. Uncap your syringe and get it ready for use. Hold the bag upright so the ziplock edge is facing upward. Now rotate it 45 degrees so the corner of the bag is facing upward. This is how you will be holding the bag for the next few steps. Wipe a region of the outside of the bag near the top with an alcohol soaked paper towel. Carefully puncture that same region of the bag with your sterilized syringe. Inject the sterilized water into the bag. From the outside of the bag rub the water against the spores to break them loose from the foil. This will result in the water turning into a dark fluid which is your spore solution. Wipe the outside of the bag, only this time near the bottom where the spore fluid is. Puncture the bag again with the needle again just above the water and suck up as much of the spore solution into the syringe as you can. Be careful not to puncture the bag again while the needle is in there as that would make the solution leak out of the bag. Take the needle out of the bag and flame the tip of the needle. Put the cap back on the needle. Repeat this for every syringe you want to make. As I said earlier I usually make 6 prints. From there I choose the best 4 prints to make 4 syringes. That's it, the mushroom cycle is complete. Obviously from here you can use the syringes to inoculate some grain like you did before. In the meantime, keep the syringes in a cool place until you're ready to use them, ideally a refrigerator. They usually last anywhere between 6 months to a few years.

**If at this point you just want to store the print, do the following. Place the folded print in the ziplock bag. Let the air out of the bag while and seal it. Label the bag with the date and strain type. Repeat for all of your prints if you have more than one. Each print should have its own ziplock bag.

Grain To Grain

Because of the crumbly nature of colonized grain, you can spread mycelium to multiple jars of sterilized grain with a jar that is already colonized to spread your mycelium at an exponential rate. Meaning you can sacrifice one jar to make 8, and use those 8 to make 64, etc. Anyways, to do a grain to grain transfer, just prep 8 grain jars and sterilize like you did before. Remember to leave extra space at the top of the jars so you can fit the extra colonized grain from the host jar. Pressure cook at 15 PSI for 60-90 minutes and let cool overnight. When you’re ready to do the transfer go into your clean room and bring the host jar along with your pressure cooker full of sterilized rye jars (and, of course, your glove box and sterile accessories). Triple check to make certain your host jar doesn’t have any contaminants, otherwise this will be a waste of time. Also, the host jar should be fully colonized. To reiterate, a jar is fully colonized when all the grain substrate is completely covered in mycelium. Take the host jar and repeatedly slam it (not too hard) against an object that will absorb the shock, like a roll of duct tape. This should break up the solid clump of mycelium. Put on your latex gloves. Spray the glove box on the inside and outside with your alcohol spray. Wipe it down with a paper towel and close the glove box like usual. Take your sterilized jars out of the pressure cooker. Take the foil off of all the jars one at a time and put them all in the glove box like before. Put your host jar, spoon, hand sanitizer, bottle of alcohol, and paper towels into the glove box as well. Put your hands in the glove box. Wipe down your gloved hands with hand sanitizer. Unscrew the lid of one of the sterile jars but don't open yet. Take the spoon and wipe it with an alcohol soaked paper towel, open the host jar, scoop out a couple spoonfuls of colonized substrate and pour into the newly sterilized grain jar and twist the jar closed again ASAP (also place the lid on the host jar when you aren't scooping). Do one jar at a time, wiping the spoon with an alcohol soaked paper towel after each transfer. Also the occasional hand sanitizing of the gloves in between is always a good idea. Make sure to do this quickly and get those lids back on as soon as possible without knocking them over. You have now turned 1 jar into 8. Also, there shouldn't be much left in the host jar so just dump it and clean the jar with soap in water and store for future use. That's all there is to grain to grain transfers. It comes in handy when one of your original jars that you inoculated via spore syringe contaminates, leaving you with an odd number of jars (remember you need 2 jars for each mycobag you prepare). You can also partially use this method to try making a small casing, but I'm not going to go over that. Shake your new jars well and put them in the place you usually put your jars until they finish colonizing. Spawn the jars to bags when they are done.

Sources and Links:

The Mushroom Cultivator: Paul Stamets and J.S. Chilton

IMPORTANT INFORMATION

Strains

"Cold Shock" Clarification

Gas Exchange Vs Fresh Air Exchange

Rye Preparation/Inoculation

Mycobag Method

Print Guide

Print/Syringe Guide

Grain To Grain

Pressure Cooker

Mycosupply

Manure Based Growing Substrate

CHANGELOG:
10/01/08
-Corrected part in "Grain To Grain" about not putting holes in lids
-Edited "Materials Needed"
-Changed colonization temperatures for incubator
-Added light introduction and fresh air exchange increase to "fruiting"

10/02/08
-Removed bit on holes for lids in "getting started" and moved to procedure for "Organic Rye Grain Method" to eliminate confusion
-Expanded on "Tub In Tub Incubator"
-Expanded on "Grain To Grain"
-Added link to video

10/07/08
-Updated "Materials Needed"
-Clarified on recommended temperatures

10/09/08
-Added info about glove box
-Replaced "bring to boil" with "simmer" in grain prep
-Added emphasis on clean jars
-Expanded on "Sterility"

10/10/08
-Corrected "cold shocking"
-Modified links

10/16/08
-Rye seed and rye grain are two different things, changed to grain
-Don't wait six hours between simmer and PC

10/17/08
-Added link to "Gas Exchange vs FAE"
-Expanded on mushroom life cycle

10/20/08
-Updated "Materials Needed"

10/21/08
-Modified "Organic Rye Grain Method"
-Modified "Inoculation Via Spore Syringe"

11/11/08
-Reworded mushroom life cycle
-Reorganized "Materials Needed" into a list
-Clarified "Sterility"

11/13/08
-Modified "Tub In Tub Incubator"
-Added summarized procedure to "Growing Psilocybe Cubensis"
-Modified "Organic Rye Grain Method"

12/17/08
-Added link to spore print/syringe guide
-Added link to Liquid Culture
-Modified "Spawn Bags (Mycobags)"

01/13/09
-Added link to Sporeworks
-Modified "Organic Rye Grain Method"
-Updated Inoculation Via Spore Syringe"
-Updated "Spawn Bags (Mycobags)"
-Updated "Fruiting/Harvest"
-Updated "Drying"
-Updated "General Overview"
-Added "Additional Information" section
-Moved "Grain To Grain" to "Additional Information"
-Moved "Cloning" to "Additional Information"
-Added "Spore Print/Syringe" to "Additional Information" (incomplete)
-Added "Liquid Culture" to "Additional Information" (incomplete)

01/14/09
-Removed desiccant as drying agent
-Fixed spelling errors
-Separated "Spore Print" and "Spore Syringe" into two sections

01/08/13
-Updated "Growing Psilocybe Cubensis"
-Updated "Getting Started"
-Updated "Sterility"
-Removed "Tub In Tub Incubator" section
-Added "Glove Box" section'
-Updated "Organic Rye Grain Method"
-Updated "Inoculation Via Spore Syringe"
-Updated "Spawn Bags (Mycobags)"
-Updated "Fruiting/Harvest"
-Updated "Grain to Grain"
-Updated "Cloning"
-Updated "Sources and Links"

07/09/13
-Updated "Growing Psilocybe Cubensis"
-Updated "Getting Started"
-Updated "Sterility"
-Updated "Glove Box"
-Updated "Organic Rye Grain Method"
-Updated "Inoculation Via Spore Syringe"
-Updated "Spawn Bags (Mycobags)"
-Updated "Fruiting/Harvest"
-Updated "Spore Print"
-Updated "Spore Syringe"
-Updated "Grain to Grain"
-Removed "Cloning"
-Updated "Sources and Links"

Edited by BPEmpire (07/09/13 07:38 PM)

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Invisiblegeorge castanzaM
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Re: Spore to rye to poo bags [Re: BPEmpire]
    #9013306 - 10/01/08 01:18 PM (15 years, 5 months ago)

Wow that is a lot of typing.  I would have put more links in at different spots in the post so you could click for more info.  I guess all and all not a bad post.  I'll give you 5 shrooms for all the work.:mushroom2:


--------------------
KRAMER CAKES



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Offlinebtb103
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Re: Spore to rye to poo bags [Re: george castanza]
    #9013408 - 10/01/08 01:40 PM (15 years, 5 months ago)

I didn't read the whole thing but I did notice a few glaring errors.

Quote:

Anyways, to do grain to grain, just sterilize some jars of grain like you did before. Only difference is dont put holes in the lids, flip the lid so the rubber is facing up (to prevent a total seal), and aluminum isnt necessary (at least I dont think it is).




The holes in the lids are essential for fresh air exchange. Without a filtered air port, mycelium will fail to grow and your jars will be overtaken by anaerobic bacteria.

Also, your understanding of pinning triggers is dated and erroneous. Light IS a significant trigger, as is an increase in fresh air exchange. The temperature drop (previously referred to as "cold shock") has largely been disproved, as P. cubensis is a tropical species.

One last thing I noticed was your suggestion of "84-86" degrees for colonization. This too is erroneous and has been debunked numerous times across the mushroom cultivation community. Most experts agree that colonization should take place at no more than 80 degrees and in fact recommend colonizing at around room temperature (75 degrees) due to the endothermic (heat producing) properties of 'cubensis mycelium.

All of the categories of cultivation you've touched on have been discussed, tutorialized, and pictorialized elsewhere on this forum and are completely irrelevant (in addition to being factually misdirected, as I've pointed out above). You're really not qualified to speak on these things until you've actually TRIED the methods you're describing.

Edited by btb103 (10/01/08 01:54 PM)

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OfflineBPEmpire
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Registered: 09/30/08
Posts: 22
Last seen: 10 years, 8 months
Re: Spore to rye to poo bags [Re: btb103]
    #9014189 - 10/01/08 04:16 PM (15 years, 5 months ago)

thanks guys for your help. yeah i wrote this over a year ago and brought it back up and looked over it again. a lot of it was way wrong and some of it was unneccessary...so i chopped out like 5 pages worth and rewrote a lot of it until i came up with this procedure.

Quote:

btb103 said:
I didn't read the whole thing but I did notice a few glaring errors.

Quote:

Anyways, to do grain to grain, just sterilize some jars of grain like you did before. Only difference is dont put holes in the lids, flip the lid so the rubber is facing up (to prevent a total seal), and aluminum isnt necessary (at least I dont think it is).




The holes in the lids are essential for fresh air exchange. Without a filtered air port, mycelium will fail to grow and your jars will be overtaken by anaerobic bacteria.

Also, your understanding of pinning triggers is dated and erroneous. Light IS a significant trigger, as is an increase in fresh air exchange. The temperature drop (previously referred to as "cold shock") has largely been disproved, as P. cubensis is a tropical species.

One last thing I noticed was your suggestion of "84-86" degrees for colonization. This too is erroneous and has been debunked numerous times across the mushroom cultivation community. Most experts agree that colonization should take place at no more than 80 degrees and in fact recommend colonizing at around room temperature (75 degrees) due to the endothermic (heat producing) properties of 'cubensis mycelium.

All of the categories of cultivation you've touched on have been discussed, tutorialized, and pictorialized elsewhere on this forum and are completely irrelevant (in addition to being factually misdirected, as I've pointed out above). You're really not qualified to speak on these things until you've actually TRIED the methods you're describing.




again, im no professional and posted this to get feedback from you guys and edit the first post accordingly because i was certain that chunks of it were wrong and outdated. pretty much what i have written is a summation of everything ive learned from reading posts on this site and certain parts of The Mushroom Cultivator book. Some of the things I read from were from 99...some from 06 and pretty much between those years.

i think i stated in my post that a lot of the things i have written might be wrong. im not trying to flaunt that i came up with all these methods either, because i didnt. i have very little experience..ive just been reading a lot.

the point of this post was to show the community how i understand cultivation thus far, though not entirely correct, and get feedback. i would edit the first post and implement that feedback (like the feedback you gave me) and it would continue until the procedure was as accurate as possible. the result would be one big procedure that people in similar situations as me could follow with confidence.

also, im about to start growing soon using the above procedure, so i dont want to get started with this and waste time if im just going to do it wrong, you see.

thanks so much guys. if you all have more feedback just post away.

Edit: for now I am going to leave the light thing as it is until I get more feedback. ive just heard too many times that light isn't a trigger.

Edit2: Alright added it, but kept the bit about the temperature drop for now. I just cant find anywhere that says a temperature drop doesn't help initiate pins.

Edited by BPEmpire (10/01/08 06:21 PM)

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Offlinejphil
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Registered: 07/22/17
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Re: Spore to rye to poo bags [Re: BPEmpire]
    #24501999 - 07/23/17 01:33 AM (6 years, 8 months ago)

I know this thread old, but just wanted to say thank you for taking the time to write the whole process out. I am new to this and finding it very frustrating trying to string all the fragmented information together. This thread helps to string a few more techniques together and reiterate some other concepts as well.

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OfflineMellowbie
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Re: Spore to Rye to Pre-Pasteurized Manure Based Growing Substrate in Spawn Bags (Mycobags) [Re: BPEmpire]
    #26642186 - 05/01/20 08:53 PM (3 years, 10 months ago)

Wow!!! This was thoroughly written... Thank you!


--------------------
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🌙✨🍄🌙✨🍄🌙✨🍄🌙🌙🍄✨🌙🍄✨🌙🍄✨🌙🍄

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OfflineChesser
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Re: Spore to Rye to Pre-Pasteurized Manure Based Growing Substrate in Spawn Bags (Mycobags) [Re: Mellowbie]
    #27018846 - 11/03/20 08:03 AM (3 years, 4 months ago)

i also agree this is great for a noob like me
thanks

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