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World Spirit
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Revised: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls***~~~ 1
#5018417 - 12/05/05 03:26 PM (18 years, 4 months ago) |
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With the support of everyone on this site, we can put together some really badass articles on how to grow specific plants. I've posted a few myself in another forum and I'll gladly tweak/edit any submissions so others can enjoy them.
EDITED -------- PLEASE READ -------- EDITED
If you would like to submit a "How to" article on growing your favorite plant, please include as much info as possible. We'll edit it and put it into MS Word format then repost it. Please include a couple of pics if possible. The more aesthetic the photos are, the better the article will look.
Here's the list of "what to include" for those who want to submit a grow guide for their favorite plant:
1. Climate zone (zone 1, etc) 2. Is the plant an Annual, Perennial, Biennial, etc 3. Best way to start from seeds 4. Frost - will it survive a heavy/light/long frost? 5. How much shade/sun? 6. How often does it get watered? 7. How long from the time you plant the seed til its ready for (partial or full?) harvest? 8. Dormancy 9. Ideal soil mix 10. Ideal fertilizer if any 11. Container growing tips 12. Common pests and diseases to watch out for. Also any other sensitivities the plant may have. 13. Health warnings (IE: wear gloves when harvesting tobacco) 14. Ideal propagation methods 15. If indoors, what type of lighting should be used?
See the other articles (which have been added as ATTACHMENTS in MS Word format) throughout the thread.
Edited by Enter (12/10/05 08:11 PM)
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Jaeger
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: World Spirit]
#5018425 - 12/05/05 03:29 PM (18 years, 4 months ago) |
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What plants?
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World Spirit
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: Jaeger]
#5018434 - 12/05/05 03:30 PM (18 years, 4 months ago) |
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Anything with spiritual value, medicinal value, or therapuetic value. I've seen the article on the Peganum Harmala - that would be great if it were in one/solid post. I think the community would be open to "new" plants too, so feel at liberty to post any plant/vine/shrub/tree/fungi/etc.
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Anonymous
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: World Spirit]
#5018602 - 12/05/05 04:04 PM (18 years, 4 months ago) |
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Like epimedum sagittum.
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World Spirit
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: Anonymous]
#5018624 - 12/05/05 04:10 PM (18 years, 4 months ago) |
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Yes, that too. Horny Goat Weed -> www.botanical.com
Horizon
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neuro
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: World Spirit]
#5019289 - 12/05/05 06:36 PM (18 years, 4 months ago) |
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do you want like a special section? or just a bunch of good threads linked in one "How To" Sticky?
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World Spirit
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: neuro]
#5019400 - 12/05/05 07:02 PM (18 years, 4 months ago) |
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Anything's fine, but it would be ideal to have things as organized as possible. The more straight-forward the better I think.
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Vertigo6911
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: World Spirit]
#5020522 - 12/05/05 10:17 PM (18 years, 4 months ago) |
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great idea
maybe u should make a list of q's, and everyone comes in and posts the name of their plant and fills in the A's...
-------------------- -Know ye not that ye are gods?- My homepage
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World Spirit
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: Vertigo6911]
#5020659 - 12/05/05 10:32 PM (18 years, 4 months ago) |
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Articles on the following would be awesome:
1. How do I clone Datura Metel (from start to finish with pictures). Remember pls, that some folks prefer a slow, easy read to absorb everything.
2. How do I clone Lophophora Williamsii?
3. I am brand new to indoor plant cultivation. What is the best, most efficient setup you can recommend?
4. How do I grow San Pedro from seedlings indoors?
5. How do I grow San Pedro from seedlings outdoors?
6. How can I grow Reishi organically indoors?
7. What are a few different ways to germinate seeds indoors?
8. How do I grow Henbane from start to finish?
That's a start.
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World Spirit
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: World Spirit]
#5024644 - 12/06/05 05:13 PM (18 years, 4 months ago) |
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Up to da top ya go....
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Vertigo6911
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: World Spirit]
#5026294 - 12/06/05 10:33 PM (18 years, 4 months ago) |
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ill try to add something later, right now i want to add:
9) how to positively Identify M.hostillis
-------------------- -Know ye not that ye are gods?- My homepage
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Vertigo6911
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: Vertigo6911]
#5028280 - 12/07/05 12:06 PM (18 years, 4 months ago) |
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8: growing henbane (Hyoscyamus niger) -sow seeds on top of regular potting soil, do not cover. henbane seeds are very viable, so use only a few of them.
-a plastic baggie helps germination, but is not neccecery.
-give it lots of light, full sun could be bad in warmer climates but it can definetly handle it in temperate zones. the plant can handle shade quite well but will be significantly smaller and produce fewer flowers.
-it will start to flower around may and the pods will be ready to harvest around august. harvest the pods as they start to turn brown.
-open the pods, take out the seeds (they should be gray when wet, and dark gray when dry. if they are tan they are not ripe yet) and lay them on a piece of paper to dry in the sun.
-ive had all kinds of pest, but none ever came near the henbane even in cases where the infacted plants were right next to the henbane.
-ive repotted the plants several times and they never gave any indication of being even slightly unconfortable.
there you go, henbane from start to finish. as you can see its prettymuch effortless and a perfect project for a botanical newbie.
pics are included in the attachment.
-------------------- -Know ye not that ye are gods?- My homepage
Edited by Vertigo6911 (12/07/05 12:16 PM)
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Legoulash
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: Vertigo6911]
#5028813 - 12/07/05 02:23 PM (18 years, 4 months ago) |
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I have been growing Kanna for awhile. Here are some of the things iv learned, Ill also take pictures and upload them to the site asap.
Starting from seed is very easy, but expect many of them not to germinate. Though viability will vary from different suppliers in my experience 50% is a good bet. Treat it like any cactus at first, simply sprinkle the seeds on the top layer cactus soil and place syran wrap or a bag to keep humidity up, I water with a spray bottle but bottom watering will work great too. After the plant starts growing be sure to not over water. Just watch the plant as it grows if it doesn't seem to be growing very much you may be watering too much. I only water when the top of the soil is dry and they seem to thrive.
Taking a cutting is very easy, but Kanna contains alot of water so you have to be carful not to snap the leaves or stem. Iv rooted cuttings in both water with a fish tank bubbler and in moist soil. With both methods iv used rooting powder, just try to keep the plants from sitting on the water or moist soil. They will rot easily. For general care I find under watering is much better than over watering. They contain so much moisture they can go long stretches of drought without a big impact in appearance to the plant. They will grow in both full sun and partial light or behind a window. Wherever you choose ot let it grow I like let it be a hanging plant, that way no rot will set in.
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Legoulash
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: Legoulash]
#5028896 - 12/07/05 02:40 PM (18 years, 4 months ago) |
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World Spirit
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: Vertigo6911]
#5029583 - 12/07/05 05:03 PM (18 years, 4 months ago) |
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Vertigo, excellent info. I tried to organize the document a bit more, while only including a couple of pics. Tell me what you think. Also, it would be helpful to know if the plant is an annual, biennial, etc and what zones it grows in. Also, if it can survive a frost.
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Vertigo6911
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: World Spirit]
#5029893 - 12/07/05 05:57 PM (18 years, 4 months ago) |
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ahh yes, its an annual and it grows in the wild here in holland, so im guessing its a temperate native.
maybe we should set up checklist for thse kinds of things...
-------------------- -Know ye not that ye are gods?- My homepage
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World Spirit
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: Vertigo6911]
#5029926 - 12/07/05 06:09 PM (18 years, 4 months ago) |
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Agreed. I'll start but pls add some too (and anyone else who wants to)...
1. Climate zone 2. Annual, Perennial, Biennial, etc 3. Best way to start from seeds (indoors, outdoors, what type of soil, etc) 4. Frost - will it survive a heavy/light/long frost? 5. How much shade/sun? 6. How often does it get watered? 7. How long from the time you plant the seed til its ready for (partial or full?) harvest? etc
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World Spirit
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: World Spirit]
#5030113 - 12/07/05 06:56 PM (18 years, 4 months ago) |
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I put the Ethnobotanical FAQ document into MS Word if any wants it. See attachment.
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Vertigo6911
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: World Spirit]
#5032209 - 12/08/05 12:41 AM (18 years, 4 months ago) |
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some items that might be added to the checklist:
8: dormancy 9: soil mix 10: fertilising. 11: containers 12: commen pests and diseases. 13: health warnings (IE: wear gloves when harvesting tobacco, stuff like that) 14: propagation methods
-------------------- -Know ye not that ye are gods?- My homepage
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World Spirit
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: Vertigo6911]
#5032309 - 12/08/05 01:13 AM (18 years, 4 months ago) |
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/high5
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World Spirit
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: Vertigo6911]
#5040590 - 12/09/05 05:17 PM (18 years, 4 months ago) |
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EDITED -------- PLEASE READ -------- EDITED
If you would like to submit a "How to" article on growing your favorite plant, please include as much info as possible. We'll edit it and put it into MS Word format then repost it. Please include a couple of pics if possible. The more aesthetic the photos are, the better the article will look.
Here's the list of "what to include" for those who want to submit a grow guide for their favorite plant:
1. Climate zone (zone 1, etc) 2. Is the plant an Annual, Perennial, Biennial, etc 3. Best way to start from seeds 4. Frost - will it survive a heavy/light/long frost? 5. How much shade/sun? 6. How often does it get watered? 7. How long from the time you plant the seed til its ready for (partial or full?) harvest? 8. Dormancy 9. Ideal soil mix 10. Ideal fertilizer if any 11. Container growing tips 12. Common pests and diseases to watch out for. Also any other sensitivities the plant may have. 13. Health warnings (IE: wear gloves when harvesting tobacco) 14. Ideal propagation methods 15. If indoors, what type of lighting should be used?
See the other articles (which have been added as ATTACHMENTS in MS Word format) throughout the thread.
Edited by Enter (12/10/05 08:26 PM)
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World Spirit
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: Legoulash]
#5040799 - 12/09/05 06:18 PM (18 years, 4 months ago) |
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The Kanna Grower?s Guide [Sceletium tortuosum]
See attachment. There's still a few things that need to be added so this is the initial draft.
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World Spirit
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: World Spirit]
#5040864 - 12/09/05 06:32 PM (18 years, 4 months ago) |
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Lophophora. Attachment.
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World Spirit
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: World Spirit]
#5041188 - 12/09/05 08:11 PM (18 years, 4 months ago) |
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Datura. Attached.
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World Spirit
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: World Spirit]
#5041719 - 12/09/05 10:32 PM (18 years, 4 months ago) |
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Poppies. Attached.
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Vertigo6911
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: World Spirit]
#5042845 - 12/10/05 03:10 AM (18 years, 4 months ago) |
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some additions to the lophophora one:
The cactus expects to go dormant, though this can be skipped once in a wile, you will not get flowers that year.
Lophophora is an excelent candidate to be grafted to other cacti. the better rootstock's include: Trichocereus and Pereeskiopsis.
my trick for knowing when to water a fairly adult plant is to squeese it a little. if it feels hard its good, if it feels a bit squishy its getting ready to recieve some water. ----
a bit about lighting that might be handy:
The cheapest option for lighting is florescant tubes. of this is your choice u will need to make sure u are using the right color spectrum or else it will have little effect.
the right colors are Phillips 33/Osram 21/Coolwhite Phillips 84/Osram ??/?????????
36 watts should be enuff provided there is no more then 12" between the tubes and the plants. ----
Growing Passiflora incarnata:
1. Climate zone: subtropical
2. Annual, Perennial, Biennial, etc: Perennial
3. Best way to start from seeds (indoors, outdoors, what type of soil, etc) sow at 1" deep in regular potting soil, keep moist.
4. Frost - will it survive a heavy/light/long frost?: No, it will need to be brought indoors trough the winter in temperate climate zones.
5. How much shade/sun? half shade
6. How often does it get watered? keep moist, slightly less in winter.
7. How long from the time you plant the seed til its ready for (partial or full?) harvest? Can be brought to flower in the 3rd year.
8. Dormancy it will go dormant in winter when it will stop growing and turn brown and dry partialy or completely.
9. Ideal soil mix standard potting soil
10. Ideal fertilizer if any small plants like tomato fertiliser, but larger plants require very little. Do not give it alot of Nitrogen if you want it to flower.
11. Container growing tips Plastic or glazed ceramic pots. be sure to provide a climbing support
12. Common pests and diseases to watch out for Pests are rare for Passiflora.
13. Health warnings (IE: wear gloves when harvesting tobacco, stuff like that) none
14. Ideal propagation methods Cuttings or seed.
Pruning: Only prune during active growth. preferably leave the main stem alone, but if needed prune it no lower then at least about 6" above ground. cutting too low can prevent flowering for many years.
-------------------- -Know ye not that ye are gods?- My homepage
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World Spirit
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Re: Revised: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls***~~~ [Re: World Spirit]
#5045851 - 12/10/05 08:12 PM (18 years, 4 months ago) |
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EDITED -------- PLEASE READ -------- EDITED
If you would like to submit a "How to" article on growing your favorite plant, please include as much info as possible. We'll edit it and put it into MS Word format then repost it. Please include a couple of pics if possible. The more aesthetic the photos are, the better the article will look.
Here's the list of "what to include" for those who want to submit a grow guide for their favorite plant:
1. Climate zone (zone 1, etc) 2. Is the plant an Annual, Perennial, Biennial, etc 3. Best way to start from seeds 4. Frost - will it survive a heavy/light/long frost? 5. How much shade/sun? 6. How often does it get watered? 7. How long from the time you plant the seed til its ready for (partial or full?) harvest? 8. Dormancy 9. Ideal soil mix 10. Ideal fertilizer if any 11. Container growing tips 12. Common pests and diseases to watch out for. Also any other sensitivities the plant may have. 13. Health warnings (IE: wear gloves when harvesting tobacco) 14. Ideal propagation methods 15. If indoors, what type of lighting should be used?
See the other articles (which have been added as ATTACHMENTS in MS Word format) throughout the thread.
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World Spirit
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: Vertigo6911]
#5045866 - 12/10/05 08:17 PM (18 years, 4 months ago) |
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Rough draft of Passion Flower attached. It needs a more personal touch.
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World Spirit
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: World Spirit]
#5045884 - 12/10/05 08:22 PM (18 years, 4 months ago) |
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World Spirit
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: World Spirit]
#5046285 - 12/10/05 10:47 PM (18 years, 4 months ago) |
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Salvia. Attached. Rough draft.
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World Spirit
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: World Spirit]
#5046304 - 12/10/05 10:55 PM (18 years, 4 months ago) |
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Morning Glories.
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Psiloman
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: World Spirit]
#5047377 - 12/11/05 09:04 AM (18 years, 4 months ago) |
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Very Very good so far!
I think we need some mroe "obscure" plants in the sense of plants that one doesnt find so much info on their growing (Banisteriopsis caapi,psychotria viridis,Diplopterys sp ,etc)
Those guids could also be give to other entheogen communities ,once a lot of info is accumulated, in a "growpack" ...It would be nice if the knowledge spreads!
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Vertigo6911
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: Psiloman]
#5048167 - 12/11/05 12:52 PM (18 years, 4 months ago) |
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i might enter a pleiospilos one in a wile. i also intend to update the henbane and passiflore ones, but i posted them so others could correct or add to them.
i have another idea:
since spring is coming up we might do this thing were we get together, and we all choose a single plant and grow it for the purpose of study. we come up with an extensive checklist of questions to ask and experiments to perform during the process and at the end we make a compendium of all the logs and experiment results...
or something to that efect...
what do u guys think?
-------------------- -Know ye not that ye are gods?- My homepage
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World Spirit
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Posts: 9,817
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: Vertigo6911]
#5048414 - 12/11/05 02:13 PM (18 years, 4 months ago) |
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Quote:
Vertigo6911 said: i might enter a pleiospilos one in a wile. i also intend to update the henbane and passiflore ones, but i posted them so others could correct or add to them.
i have another idea:
since spring is coming up we might do this thing were we get together, and we all choose a single plant and grow it for the purpose of study. we come up with an extensive checklist of questions to ask and experiments to perform during the process and at the end we make a compendium of all the logs and experiment results...
or something to that efect...
what do u guys think?
Your timing is exquisite, if I do say so myself. This is the type of thing I've been interested in for several months now - and now I finally have a new place with enough room to grow, indoors and outdoors.
Psiloman, are you up for this come Springtime? Neuro? Wiccan_Seeker? Anyone else?
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World Spirit
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: Psiloman]
#5048431 - 12/11/05 02:15 PM (18 years, 4 months ago) |
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Quote:
Psiloman said: Very Very good so far!
I think we need some mroe "obscure" plants in the sense of plants that one doesnt find so much info on their growing (Banisteriopsis caapi,psychotria viridis,Diplopterys sp ,etc)
Those guids could also be give to other entheogen communities ,once a lot of info is accumulated, in a "growpack" ...It would be nice if the knowledge spreads!
Thanks for the compliment. I agree on the Ayahuasca plants. All of the growing information is already on tons of sites - it's now just a matter of which team of people can put together the most comprehensive and aesthetic grow information.
Psiloman, can you submit the ideal growth paramaters for Caapi? I'll put it together if you'll gimmee some stuff to work on.
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Vertigo6911
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: World Spirit]
#5048481 - 12/11/05 02:34 PM (18 years, 4 months ago) |
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Quote:
Your timing is exquisite, if I do say so myself.
mmm you n me seem to be verymuch on the same page here. i remember thinking about this communities potential to write a book on ethnofarming and ive had the idea to do a grow project like that for a wile. only im not sure how to go about it exactly, im gonna need some help with planning what and how to document and stuff like that...
oh and another thing we might do is have some peeps search the forum for those particular topics that have alot of info in them like these: http://www.shroomery.org/forums/favlinke...er=&postmarker= http://www.shroomery.org/forums/favlinke...er=&postmarker=
anyways the most rare seeds i got right now are: Dalea purpurea and Scuttelaria galericulata. i also have Mimosa hostillis (2 totaly different looking types of seeds) and M. scabrella, it might be worth invesigating these?
oh yeah one thats rare and rarely recognised as an ethno: Impatiens balfourii (balsaminae). an atractive little plant with sap that can give instant relief from nettle stings and insect bites
-------------------- -Know ye not that ye are gods?- My homepage
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World Spirit
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: Vertigo6911]
#5048547 - 12/11/05 02:51 PM (18 years, 4 months ago) |
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I replied to one of the threads. Also, I replied in another thread that the newly famous Tinkal is workin' on. That guy deserves a gold metal for his prowess in enthnobotany.
Edited by Enter (12/11/05 02:52 PM)
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World Spirit
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: World Spirit]
#5048790 - 12/11/05 03:57 PM (18 years, 4 months ago) |
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Very rough draft on Desmanthus Illinoisis attached.
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Fireside
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Here is a general guide for all you cactus lovers HOW TO START FROM SEEDS
Quote:
Starting from Seed For the non-professional cactus lover starting cacti from seed can be a daunting task, especially for those without a greenhouse and experience. But growing these beautiful specimens of the plant kingdom should not be limited to those who are mass producers. Everyone should have a chance to start their own cacti from seed and slowly watch them as they grow and form into mature specimens. With the right resources and techniques the cactus enthusiast should find success, even if that is within a well lit closet. Seeds and Soil: Of course first thoughts must be given to what seeds to grow. There are a number of very reputable cactus plant and seed dealers, my own favorite being < mod edit - to comply with new forum rules >
Soil choice among the professionals can be quite an intricate endeavor. Many cacti have very specific ecosystems that they have evolved in, but until you become much more involved in cacti care you can simply use the general cactus soil that can be purchased from your local nursery or garden center. If you are looking for a quality general purpuse soil I would recommend ordering from Bob Smoley?s GardenWorld, or many of the other cacti dealers found at the Plant Mall. Many professionals are now using mixes with 50% pumice with good results, but a general mix could consist of 2/3 potting mix to 1/3 pumice.
Getting Started: Besides the seed and soil other needed supplies are small plastic pots, a regular sized spoon, 2 deep microwavable bowls with lids (preferably glass, one large and one small), a set of tweezers, a can of disinfectant spray, a bottle of bleach, and some ziplock baggies. I would also recommend that only distilled water be used for soaking the soil and any future misting of the soil or seedlings.
Getting the soil ready and killing off all contaminates is the first step. Make an estimate of how much soil is going to be needed to fill the number of pots that are going to be used (remember, seeds should be set in the soil no less that one half apart, but an inch is best). Take the soil and put it in the large glass bowl and slowly add distilled water and mix till it is minimally wet, trying to eliminate all dry spots. The soil should not be so wet as to make it difficult to work with. Microwave for about one minute for each cup of soil. The steam created through the heating should be enough for sterilization. Use the small glass bowl to do the same procedure with sifted soil, but this time use only about 1/4 the original soil amount. This will be the soil topping for the pots and allow for the seed roots to dig in. After both containers of soil are sterilized let them cool. I recommend letting it cool with the lids on since it will help the soil avoid picking up airborne spores. This may of course take some time, so get cleaning.
Disinfect all the pots and tools by placing them in the sink with a gallon of warm water and a tablespoon or two of bleach. Let them sit for a while. If they are previously used they should be scrubbed with a clean unused sponge, being careful to remove all dirt and mineral buildup. This step will most likely save you from the horror of fungus engulfing your seeds and seedlings. Many simply avoid this step by using a fungicide in the soil, but often this will lessen seed germination rates, something that the closet cactus grower, with few seeds, cannot afford. Finish up by using the disinfectant on the counter top and placing the clean pots and tools out to dry on a clean towel. I am of course trying to stress that all items used the process, from towels to tweezers, need to be thoroughly clean and free of mold and fungus spores, etc.
An easier way to sterilize the soil is possible and quite handy if you are just sowing a small number of species. Simply put the soil in the pots as described below (but without the seeds) and microwave for an appropriate amount of time. Of course be sure that you do not cook them to long, leading the plastic to melt. I generally will put the pots in a large ziplock baggy that is partially closed, thereby lessening the dissipation of the soils moisture content. Then you can just let the soil cool a bit in this large bag, remove and sow, and then place into smaller bags for the germination.
Sowing the Seed: Once the fine topsoil is ready, being slightly warm (80 to 85 degrees), start by filling each pot full with regular soil and then with a very thin layer of sifted soil on top of that. I personally use square 2.5? (6 cm) plastic pots. Gently press the soil down with your spoon, but not too much, it needs to stay rather loose. Give a spraying from a misting bottle to settle and even out the top layer of soil. Make sure the soil is relatively wet but in no way sopping wet. Now just take your tweezers and place the seeds on the soil and press them halfway into the soil. Give about an inch between seedlings as you should probably keep them in these containers for at least a year.
Now you are ready to bag them up. Two 2.5" pots fit perfectly into a small ziplock. The trick in bagging them is to make the bag like a tent. This will cause the condensation buildup within the bag to run down the sides and collect at the base of the pots, possibly to be sucked back into the pots through the bottom holes. If a horizontal ceiling is above the pots droplets of condensation may fall directly on top of the newborn seedlings, often displacing the seedlings or causing them to rot easier. The easiest way to make such a tent is to place the pots directly on the crease that is at the bottom of the bags. This would mean the ziplock is directly above the pots.
Creating the Right Environment - Heat and Light: Now that the seeds are bagged up it?s important to create the right growing environment of heating and lighting. This is possibly the most critical aspect of growing your own cacti from seed. My own method is to place the baggies onto a reptile heating pad that can be purchased from a pet store. I have forgotten the brand I use, but it is very thin with a clear lamination on it. There are a couple different sizes available, but they are rather expensive, approximately $40 for the larger one. You may want to place a small thermometer (sterilized) within one of the bags to make sure the internal temperature does not get excessive. Best germination is at about 80 to 85 degrees, but a night temperature around 65 to 70 degrees is also necessary. I simply have my heating pads and lights on a timer. A 14 to 16 hour cycle of light and heat is good. Dependent upon what type of lighting you use, its heat levels, and the environment in which the baggies will be placed, you may not need heating pads. I start my own seeds in the unheated basement of my house which usually will run about 65 degrees for the duration of the winter, having sown my seeds in the Fall so that they will be ready to acclimatize to natural conditions in the Spring.
For lighting I use two 40 watt 4' long shop lights with two florescent tubes. These are elevated about 1/2' to 1' above the seed containers. This is usually fine for the germination phase but may turn out to be too much light for best growth. Many people believe in putting the lights upwards of a couple inches from the soil level, but I have found this is not always necessary. It must be kept in mind that though cacti are typically desert plants they germinate and have much of their initial growth in cracks and crevices in the soil or under the shade of other plants. A clear sign that there is too much light is that the seedlings will stop growing and get a reddish/brown color. If this occurs you can use cheesecloth to lay over the bags as needed. Germination should take anywhere from a week to nearly a month, so be patient and avoid opening the baggies and letting in contaminates.
After about two or three months you can remove the pots from the baggies and keep them under the lights and on the heating pad cycle. Some people have been known to keep the pots in the bag for up to a year. If you find it necessary reapply the cheesecloth as needed once removed from the bag. If you begin to notice seedlings dying off after they have germinated make sure to remove the pots from the bags and allow the soil to dry out some, then follow the watering directions given below, but with added fungicide.
One additional measure I take to help recreate a natural environment indoors is to add a small fan to my timing system. I place the fan directly above the cacti on low and allow it to blow gently throughout the area of my exposed cacti. Not only will this help limit any fungus and green mold growth, but it will also help with the all too common gnat problem. Another way to limit fungus, gnats, as well as retain soil moisture, is to apply a layer of desert sand or small gravel around the seedlings once they are large enough.
Watering: Once the new seedlings are out of the baggies watering will become important. Seedlings will need more water than mature cacti, but they also stand a better chance of getting root rot. I personally recommend that the top layer of soil should come close to being dry before re- watering. When watering is needed the pots should be placed in a dish of room temperature water, allowing the water to rise through the bottom till the topsoil is moist. One can also regularly apply a fine mist with a water bottle. Distilled water produces healthier seedlings than tap water, but rain water is the best for watering as it contain trace minerals. If you decide to use a top cover it may be necessary to learn how to use pot weight as an indicator of watering time. Do this by learning the weight of the pots when fully watered. When the pot becomes noticeably lighter be sure to water. This is also a good technique for checking adult plants as well which might have rock cover.
Though my technique does not often afford rapid growth it should lessen the chances for rot, thereby securing that the small closet cacti grower has his or her limited amount of seed succeed. Following the directions of a good 1-7-6 fertilizer such as Sudbury Cactus Juice may possibly increase survival rates by strengthening the plants natural defenses. As with any cacti fertilizer it is necessary that they be fed from the bottom only, otherwise mineral deposits will built up on the cacti themselves and can cause burns.
Growing Seedlings Outdoors: Since I am in a northern clime I find it best to start my seedling by the above method indoors in the Fall with the anticipation that I will put them outdoors after six or more months of growth. It is very important that when placed outdoors the seedlings receive no direct sunlight, but are instead placed in a nice shady spot that gets diffused light. As with artificial lights to much sunlight will be readily recognizable by the reddening of the cacti. In this case the cacti can be moved to a less bright spot or else a shade screen can be used to cut back the light. My own method is to use replacement screening for screen doors and windows that can be cheaply purchased from your local hardware store in rolls. This screening can be doubled up until the needed level of protection is found. Such porous screening also allows for needed air circulation as well as protection from the occasional cacti eating bird. Of course one can also purchase professional growers shade screening.
Transplanting: Once your seedlings have grown to about a half inch to an inch you might want to consider transplanting them to a new container with fresh soil. Let the soil first dry out a little. It is best that the soil is not fully wet, but also not fully dry, at which point it might harden up and encase the roots, causing the young rootlets to tear off when removing from the soil. Many species have their best growth in a relatively root bound environment so it is recommended that the cacti be little more than one inch away from the containers edges. Some cacti, especially those with tuberous roots such as Ariocarpus and Turbinicarpus also love to dive deep into the soil so be sure to provide them with adequately deep containers.
Once the seedlings are transplanted to new containers and on their way to maturity, it is time to start testing out their natural sunlight capabilities. As with all cacti, young or mature, a sudden move from shade or partial sun to full sun is not recommended. Such a sudden shift in environments can cause the plant to get unsightly sunburn marks. It is best to slowly move them into more sunlight over the period of a couple weeks, taking care to watch for browning or reddening over. Immediately move the plant back into more shade if this occurs. And remember, though your cacti received strong artificial light indoors they still might not be capable of handing a rapid shift to strong natural light.
Grafting Your Seedlings: Now that your seedlings are large enough you might want to consider grafting. Grafting is an excellent method for increasing the growth rate of many of the clumping cacti, but is typically not done with columnar cacti. It is also used to propagate species since a graft will reach maturity quicker, thereby setting off many ?pups? that can then be taken and grafted themselves. The principle here is to use a fast growing columnar species as a base plant and graft a slower growing clumping species onto it.
Start by selecting a nice columnar cactus for a base that is at least 4 inches tall, such as a Trichocereus pachanoi or Myrtillocactus geometrizans. If the two cores do not match in size it is very important that you at least cause them to connect at some point.
Now simply use a very sharp and sterile non-serrated knife to cleanly slice the base cactus horizontally, being careful not to saw through the plant. It?s important that at this point you trim the edges of the base plant at a 45 degree angle all the way around while leaving a flat area equal to, or a little larger, than the diameter of the scion. This is important so that as the scion grows it can basically "roll down" over the edge of the base plant during its active growth. If you don?t cut the edges it is very possible that the scions outward and downward growing pressure will cause it to pop off the base plant.
When you slice the scion plant be sure that it is cut very cleanly and without having to apply much pressure. Such pressure may cause bruising of the seedling or young plant which may in time become infected. Place this cut cacti directly on top of the center core of the base plant, or slightly off center if the cores are of unequal diameter. My own way of ensuring the graft is to use two rubber bands wrapped around the base of the pot of the columnar and over the top of the graft, each rubber band being at right angles to each other. This can at times be very difficult so it is very important that you take your time applying the rubber bands, being very careful that they are loose enough so as not to apply undue pressure on the graft and cause it to burst open at the sides, thereby effectively ruining the young plant.
Once the rubber bands are properly secured the graft should be placed inside a slightly humid environment for a number of days to allow the two to grow together. If the graft is not kept humid often the base plants cut edges will start to rapidly dry and sink, often causing the proper connection of the two plants to fail. My own technique is to place the watered plant within a ziplock bag under lighting for a few days. Depending on the size of the graft I may also simply place a baggie over the top of the plant while spraying a mist of water into the bag to keep up the moisture. After a short length of time the base plants exposed flesh should have callused over and two plants should be securely formed together. They can then be removed from the bag and cared for normally. After 2 to 3 weeks the rubber bands can be removed.
One of the most current grafting techniques I have heard about is to simply place the scion onto the base material as illustrated above and to make a ring of superglue around their connective points. Then one simply needs to hold the plants together with pressure until the glue is dry.
Other tips for successful growing of a graft plant might be in order here. The first is that often new shoots might arise from the base stock of the graft. Often one might want to let them grow a few inches and later cut them off to be used as graft stock. If this is the case then the limb can be cut off as close to the parent plant as possible after reaching 4 to 5 inches and then one can follow the above directions. Since the stock will not yet have roots the rubber bands can be placed around the base of the plant for a few days. Once the graft is secure remove the rubber bands and place the plant upright in a dry environment. After a couple weeks the open cut at the base should have callused over and the plant is ready for planting. If you would like to grow this cut off limb then simply allow it to callous over and then plant an inch or so into the soil. If you don?t want these limbs to zap away the growing power of the scion plant then they should be pinched off as soon as they are noticeable.
Winter Storage: Many closet cactus growers like myself who may not have a year round greenhouse or live in the appropriate environment will need to find ways to provide for the plants over the winter. With my own cacti I simply slow down watering in September and water only a couple times in October, dependent upon the weather conditions. I also attempt to prevent the rain from soaking them by putting them under cover of roof or tarp. Once the outside conditions begin to consistently fall around 40 degrees at night then I look to bring them indoors for hibernation; the soil being dry by then. Having slowed down their growth outdoors due to the lessening of water they generally do not grow once I bring them in. The medium and large plants are set downstairs and receive little light. Most of them end up in a couple corners of my basement, one of which get a little bit of sun from a window in a southfacing basement staircase. Though some have been winterized in complete darkness they do not appear to be any worse off in the spring than the ones that received minimal light. I also use a small selection for decorative purposes and place them around the house or office, on the window ledges or the end tables. Unless the plants are starting to show moderate dehydration I will not water them at all for the entire winter.
A couple faults of hibernation are root die back and no growth. Since the small roots receive no moisture and are much thinner than the main root sections they will often die. This leads to the slower formation of new growth the following season since energy for growth is being pushed into formation of new roots. There is really not much that can be done about this except to water, but watering, along with insufficient light, will lead to etiolation, the yellowing of the flesh along with uncommonly thin growth. Such growth could kill the aesthetic qualities of the cactus.
Most of my smaller seedlings will be placed under lighting while the newest seeds are sown at the same time. The yearlings receive water as soon as the soil is dried out. If some of the smaller plants in hibernation are showing signs of dehydration I will usually place them under the lights and water till they have regained some of their former glory. Once the small plant has regained its strength I let the soil dry under the lights and then place it back in the dark for continued hibernation.
Edited by Dr. uarewotueat (04/28/09 01:51 AM)
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Psiloman
member
Registered: 04/11/03
Posts: 1,116
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: World Spirit]
#5048966 - 12/11/05 04:43 PM (18 years, 4 months ago) |
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I will give it a go!
I tried searching for them on web but its a chaos out there.Still i got some information.
For Banisteriopsis Caapi:
"Botanical information A gigantic vine, it is commonly over 50m long. The stem is woody and contorted, with many branches; the leaves are oblong and acuminate, up to 18cm long and 8cm wide, appearing opposite on the branches; the flowers are white or pale pink, 14mm wide, trumpet shaped and appear in January (but variable); Widely cultivated throughout the Amazon with many regional varieties. Origin is obscured by escaped cultivations. Propagation is by cuttings or seed, however seed is rare outside South America, and is of very short viability." < mod edit - to comply with new forum rules >
Also some info here : http://www.ntbg.org/plants/plantresource_new3.php?rid=390&focus=6
On Psychotria Viridis :
Quite big for quoting - http://www.plot55.com/growing/p.viridis.html
Also i found a text for Growing Psychotria Capenis (yup a diffenret subspecies but it could propably help):
"Growing Psychotria capensis
This very decorative shrub is a must for all frost-free gardens. Not only is it a year-round attraction, either in fruit or flower most the time, it is also easy to grow. Growing equally well in sun or shade, it is perfect for those difficult, summer-shade winter-sun spots under large trees. Plant in groups or repeat plants throughout the bed.
Given a thick layer of mulch it will grow in any soil and only requires additional watering in summer and in dry conditions. Although Psychotria capensis seems to thrive under warm, moist conditions, it can be grown in colder regions in protected positions. It is also successfully grown in containers on balconies and patios.
Psychotria capensis is both quick and easy to grow from seed. Just remove the flesh from around the stone of ripe fruits and sow in spring. < mod edit - to comply with new forum rules >
Growing Anandenanthera Colubrina :
Still,big to quote here - http://www.plot55.com/growing/a.colubrina.html
Also :
"Botanical information Anadenanthera colubrina: A tree, 3 to 18m high with black, (frequently) spiky bark. The leaves are fernlike, bipinnate and up to 30cm long, folding up at night. The flowers are spherical followed by leathery, dark brown pods up to 35 cm long and 2cm wide, containing several large, round and thin seeds of a reddish-brown colour. Native to the Southern Andes (Argentinia, Bolivia, Paraguay, Peru, S/E Brazil), it prefers subtropical climates. Anadenanthera colubrina var. colubrina is found only in S/E Brazil, while Anadenanthera colubrina var. cebil covers the rest of the areas. In parts of Argentina it will regularly survive frosts of -7degC. All the foliage and some small twig may have died back by this stage, but the strong tuberous root will ensure the survival of even small plants through a cold winter. Propagation is by seed sown into sand, seeding mix or perlite in a propagation tray placed on a heat mat. Germination is usually within a few days.Viability of seed decreases rapidly over months. As the seed coat is a mere paperthin skin, this species is extremely prone to fungal attack in the germination process. Use of soil with high organic content will invariably cause death of most embryos before germination. Satisfactory results can be obtained by using new Perlite as a germination medium. The application of a systemic insecticide is almost essential for good success, but even a sulphur dusting is beneficial. Germination requires soil temeratures of over 22 deg C. Growth of the seedlings is slow in the first year, possibly due to a lack of inocculant (nitrogen fixing bacteria), but will pick up in the second year if potted into a large pot with very rich but loose soil.
Anadenanthera peregrina: This species is virtually identical to Anadenanthera colubrina in all aspects including foliage, seeds and habit. The only way to tell them apart appears to be the texture of the bark of mature trees and the fact that A.peregrina is frost sensitive. A.colubrina bark is smooth and dark while A.peregrina bark is rough and brown/greyish with warts and lumps. Native to Brazil, Colombia and Venezuela, it prefers tropical climates and is frost tender. Propagation is by seed using the same method as colubrina. " < mod edit - to comply with new forum rules >
Not too much for now ,at least no concrete info ,just generalities. I have contacted a person i found through google that has an ethnobotanical garden and grows both Caapi and Psychotria so i asked him about both (how to sow their seeds,what are the conditions they needto be grown in etc). I dont know if he will anserback but if he does i will forward his responces here...
Gosh,searching for this plants on google,trying to find quality information on them was...painstaking. This actually highlights the need for quality cultivaiton information. All i kept stumbling on was ethnovendors...ENOUGH ALREADY!!!! WE NEED CULTIVATORS,NOT VENDORS!
Edited by Dr. uarewotueat (04/28/09 01:46 AM)
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World Spirit
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: Fireside]
#5048990 - 12/11/05 04:48 PM (18 years, 4 months ago) |
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Fireside ~ please list the cacti/plant that you are submitting for in each submission. Prefer the latin name as well.
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Fireside
winter welcome
Registered: 11/17/05
Posts: 2,307
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: World Spirit]
#5049046 - 12/11/05 05:06 PM (18 years, 4 months ago) |
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It's for all cacti, really Just a general growing guide... I'll edit...
PSILOMAN! Thanks for the guide on growing yopo
-------------------- "Around us the jungle, ahead of us, the Secret" Mushroom Wood Lord, Flowstone Check in under the nymph flower
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World Spirit
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: Fireside]
#5049110 - 12/11/05 05:22 PM (18 years, 4 months ago) |
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Psychotria Viridis draft attached.
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Psiloman
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: Fireside]
#5049134 - 12/11/05 05:29 PM (18 years, 4 months ago) |
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Heh,not mine exactly just quoted a source...As i see Enter has started puting them in Document form.Nice!
I believe though that as time passes we will be able to complement those guids and produce our own versions,havign more tips and tricks. See viridis seed germination for example...Quite virgin area dont you think?
Anyway im happy you like the informaiton i unearthed....If only we could find more!
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World Spirit
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: Psiloman]
#5049152 - 12/11/05 05:32 PM (18 years, 4 months ago) |
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Quote:
Psiloman said: I believe though that as time passes we will be able to complement those guids and produce our own versions,havign more tips and tricks.
A+
Edited by Enter (12/24/05 02:03 PM)
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World Spirit
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: Psiloman]
#5049305 - 12/11/05 06:21 PM (18 years, 4 months ago) |
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Attached is the ruff draft on P. harmala.
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World Spirit
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: World Spirit]
#5049308 - 12/11/05 06:22 PM (18 years, 4 months ago) |
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I am getting paid for this, right?
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Psiloman
member
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Posts: 1,116
Loc: Europe
Last seen: 10 years, 7 months
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: World Spirit]
#5051260 - 12/12/05 06:00 AM (18 years, 4 months ago) |
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Quote:
Enter said: I am getting paid for this, right?
Of course! And love is our currency!
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shamantra
hobbyethnobotanist
Registered: 05/18/04
Posts: 1,177
Loc: ¯\(º_o)/¯
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: Psiloman]
#5052112 - 12/12/05 12:21 PM (18 years, 4 months ago) |
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maybe i can come up with something but my english is not great so someone must correct it. i can give advices on cultivation of entheogens in very cold climate. i have tons of notes, pics and experience, i live in the arctics myself so i face problems often and i find a way around it
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World Spirit
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: shamantra]
#5052650 - 12/12/05 02:28 PM (18 years, 4 months ago) |
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Hey shamantra,
Please do post whatever you'd like. I'll take a look at it as soon as possible.
Enter
PS to Psiloman: Love is - it's what I got. - Sublime
You greeks listen to Sublime, right?
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Psiloman
member
Registered: 04/11/03
Posts: 1,116
Loc: Europe
Last seen: 10 years, 7 months
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: World Spirit]
#5053576 - 12/12/05 05:19 PM (18 years, 4 months ago) |
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Yup we do! We also listen to love -Trypes (Greek rock band "Im listening to Love")
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Vertigo6911
Entheobotanist
Registered: 12/04/04
Posts: 1,834
Loc: Netherlands
Last seen: 17 years, 5 months
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: Psiloman]
#5062513 - 12/14/05 01:28 PM (18 years, 4 months ago) |
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Heres an updated text for the henbane file:
-------------------- -Know ye not that ye are gods?- My homepage
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World Spirit
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: Vertigo6911]
#5073293 - 12/16/05 08:59 PM (18 years, 4 months ago) |
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Hey Vertigo, just noticed this now. I've been doing too many things at once.
Can we get any new info added to the Henbane version I made that had the pics and all?
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Vertigo6911
Entheobotanist
Registered: 12/04/04
Posts: 1,834
Loc: Netherlands
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: World Spirit]
#5074080 - 12/17/05 01:16 AM (18 years, 4 months ago) |
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dude u can do whatever u want with it, and that goes for all of the stuff i write for this project here.
hell i dint even sigh my name lol, go nuts
ill try to make the passiflora one better this weekend,though i dont have P. incarnata myself yet so u might want to run it by someone who has cuz my info is based on passiflora in general.
-------------------- -Know ye not that ye are gods?- My homepage
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World Spirit
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: Vertigo6911]
#5087501 - 12/20/05 09:45 PM (18 years, 3 months ago) |
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A better document.
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Vertigo6911
Entheobotanist
Registered: 12/04/04
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Loc: Netherlands
Last seen: 17 years, 5 months
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: World Spirit]
#5090341 - 12/21/05 03:02 PM (18 years, 3 months ago) |
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Quote:
How is peyote prepared amoung the white population
i think you may want to change that to "western society".
-------------------- -Know ye not that ye are gods?- My homepage
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World Spirit
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: Vertigo6911]
#5091073 - 12/21/05 06:47 PM (18 years, 3 months ago) |
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I know. I did that on purpose. The reason: Native Americans only get credit for have good names that go on street signs. They need to get the credit for the Peyote. I did what I felt I had to do.
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Asante
Omnicyclion prophet
Registered: 02/06/02
Posts: 87,330
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Re: Revised: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls***~~~ [Re: World Spirit]
#5093093 - 12/22/05 09:07 AM (18 years, 3 months ago) |
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It's not mine, and I will add to this thread in my own time, but here's the Salvia Growers Guide by the Sociedad para la Preservation de les Plantas del Misterio.
At 155 kB .pdf its very comprehensive!
-------------------- Omnicyclion.org higher knowledge starts here
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World Spirit
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Re: Revised: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls***~~~ [Re: Asante]
#5094519 - 12/22/05 03:59 PM (18 years, 3 months ago) |
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Nice!
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World Spirit
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Re: Revised: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls***~~~ [Re: Asante]
#5094782 - 12/22/05 05:24 PM (18 years, 3 months ago) |
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Ok. Gotta make a humble request here: Can someone with a few years of experience with indoor hydroponics start an article on how to get setup the easiest way possible?
For the virgin grower:
1. First a summary A. How much will it cost (price range)? B. How much space should I have available? C. Is it best to use a walk-in closet? D. How much time/energy/and TLC will the setup require?
2. What is needed in terms of supplies/hardware
3. Where to obtain these supplies
4. How to prepare the area before assembling the grow chamber
5. Tips. Ideas. Suggestions/recommendations.
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World Spirit
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Re: Revised: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls***~~~ [Re: World Spirit]
#5098162 - 12/23/05 02:34 PM (18 years, 3 months ago) |
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Log in to view attachment
Here's a different style/version on Salvia D.
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Vertigo6911
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Re: Revised: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls***~~~ [Re: World Spirit]
#5100542 - 12/24/05 01:44 AM (18 years, 3 months ago) |
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Heres a more personal touch for the passiflora one.
does any1 know if the flowering age of 3 years for passiflora applies to seedlings or cuttings or both?
-------------------- -Know ye not that ye are gods?- My homepage
Edited by Vertigo6911 (12/24/05 01:46 AM)
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World Spirit
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Re: Revised: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls***~~~ [Re: Vertigo6911]
#5102093 - 12/24/05 02:06 PM (18 years, 3 months ago) |
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I looked at the link below but it didn't mention anything about flowering.
http://botanical.com/botanical/mgmh/p/pasflo14.html
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World Spirit
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Posts: 9,817
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Re: Revised: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls***~~~ [Re: World Spirit]
#5102106 - 12/24/05 02:13 PM (18 years, 3 months ago) |
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Updated list. [For How to Grow Documents] Here's the list of 'stuff we need ta know.'
1. Where can the seeds for this "plant" be purchased? 2. Are the seeds legal, and if not, when did they become illegal? 3. When should I plant my seeds if I'm gonna grow outdoors? 4. Plants preferred Climate zone (zone 1, etc) 5. Is the plant an Annual, Perennial, Biennial, etc 6. Best way to start from seeds. What type of soil mixture is recommended? 7. Frost - will it survive a heavy/light/long frost? 8. How much shade/sun? 9. How often does it get watered? 10. How long from the time you plant the seed til its ready for (partial or full?) harvest? 11. Does it go into a state of "dormancy" at colder times in the year? 12. Ideal soil mix for the plant (not the seeds)? 13. Ideal fertilizer if any (preferrably natural)? 14. Container growing tips 15. Common pests and diseases to watch out for. Also any other sensitivities the plant may have. 16. Health warnings (IE: wear gloves when harvesting tobacco) 17. Ideal propagation and cloning methods? 18. If indoors, what type of lighting should be used? 19. How far away should the lights be from the plant itself? 20. Describe, however you would like, the "personality" of the plant? 22. Last but not least (sorry how long this list got): A firt aid guide for emergency situations with plant. ie Plant was explosed to frost and is dying. ie Shroomisms pet dog "grouchie" violently ate the top of my beloved and quite tender San Pedro - what now? etc
Edited by Enter (12/24/05 04:58 PM)
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World Spirit
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Re: Revised: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls***~~~ [Re: World Spirit]
#5102600 - 12/24/05 05:00 PM (18 years, 3 months ago) |
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I went "bumpedy." Anyone notice?
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Vertigo6911
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Re: Revised: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls***~~~ [Re: World Spirit]
#5104109 - 12/25/05 02:40 AM (18 years, 3 months ago) |
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ive noticed, though im not sure why since we have a sticky...
-------------------- -Know ye not that ye are gods?- My homepage
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World Spirit
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Re: Revised: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls***~~~ [Re: Vertigo6911]
#5106546 - 12/26/05 02:40 AM (18 years, 3 months ago) |
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Oh yea. I forgot. /hides
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Asante
Omnicyclion prophet
Registered: 02/06/02
Posts: 87,330
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Re: Revised: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls***~~~ [Re: World Spirit]
#5130604 - 01/02/06 08:32 AM (18 years, 3 months ago) |
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here you go Enter!
WICCAN's WINDOWSILL STRAMONIUM TEK simple indoor cultivation method for Datura stramonium by wiccan_seeker
WARNING This cultivation method for Datura stramonium, the most common Thorn Apple, was intended to explore the cultivation profile of DS in a windowsill environment to select seeds for improvement of a strain of windowsill stramonium. The reader must realize that information about alkaloid content and yield are strictly intended as a reference for herbalist's apothecary purposes in medically acceptable doses. Datura stramonium is by no means suitable for use as a deliriant because such use involves doses which are many times above the medical maximum dose, which carries great health risks. Research about medically documented Datura intoxications (both intentional as accidental) consistently shows that this is deadly in 8-12% of cases even with medical intervention. Legally herbal DS is considered a prescription drug.
ABSTRACT From May until September 2003 I have ran a cultivation project of Datura stramonium in a windowsill for hybridization to a houseplant as well as production of medicinal biomass.
CULTIVATION ENVIRONMENT The cultivation environment was a windowsill facing the south in Holland. The flowerpots used, in the tradition of low-tech, were one-quart tin cans with holes in the bottom. The substrate consisted of 50ml of clay beads at the bottom of the pot with 750ml potting soil on top. No fertilizer was used. The pots were given 150ml of water each every other day. Cultivation period was from May 11 until September, followed by deliberate drying on-stem, harvest time September 10. Several times through the cultivation period the leaves hung limp by dehydration, but recovered quickly and completely upon watering. The pots were 4?/10cm across and sat side to side, each given a cultivation space of 4?x6? (10x12cm) for a total of 0.15 square meters (66 plants/sq mtr) Every pot got exactly ten seeds, planted within a 2?/5cm circle in the middle, a total of 100 seeds (0.75gr) per ten pots (5gr seeds per square meter)
GROWTH PHASE The total growth phase lasted approximately 15 weeks/100 days, including drying and ripening on-stem four months. Growth was lush. The seeds from a passive outdoor cultivation from 2002 were used. Within the first two weeks 58/100 plants sprouted with a ratio of 2-9 (5.8) per pot. These plants grew in the windowsill environment until 35-50cm height (14? to 20?) with one or two, one even three thorn-apples from beautiful flowers of normal size. There was substantial foliage but this was left on the plant until harvest time to let the cultivation process run its course. The plants developed thus:
+2 weeks............Al seeds sprouted (58/100) +4 weeks............First flowerbuds show +5 weeks............Flowerbuds in almost all plants +6 weeks............4 plants flowering, ten almost open +10 weeks...........End of flowering, fruits ripen +15 weeks...........End of cultivation phase and ripening +4 months...........Harvest time
During this cultivation there were no insects or plant diseases. They were handsome, healthy plants with well-shaped fairly large leaves, full-sized flowers and a delicate herbal fragrance.
HARVEST YIELD Little over 40 flowers yielded thorn-apples, their sizes between that of a small hazelnut to that of a walnut. Of these I harvested 40 ripened, opened fruits and collected the seeds from them. The seeds were black so fully ripened and weighed approximately 7mg each, or some 150 seeds per gram in dried condition. Total seed yield was an incredible 30gr, with 100gr additional biomass, or per pot:
10 seeds --> 6 plants w 4 fruits [3gr seeds+10gr biomass] = ~50mg Hyoscyamine malate
One seed contains approximately 25-50mcg hyoscyamine malate which has the peripheral effects of 50-100mcg Atropine sulphate. Medical maximum dose is 10 seeds (70mg) or 100mg biomass without thorns and splinters. Total harvest thus was 4.500 seeds + 100gr biomass = 0.5gr hyoscyamine malate which for a cultivation area of one square meter works out to be:
200gr seeds (28.500) + 660gr biomass = 3.3gr hyoscyamine malate
Esthetically Datura stramonium makes for a beautiful annual houseplant lasting all summer or perhaps two seasons in the sunlight yielding four weeks of beautiful big flowers followed by five weeks of intriguing thorn-apples, with handsome big foliage throughout the cultivation phase. It is a good germinator (~58%) and bears a lot of seed. (~45x the amount of seeds sown) For apothecary purposes it is clear that a windowsill cultivation can meet the needs of a small professional herbalist's practice.
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World Spirit
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Re: Revised: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls***~~~ [Re: Asante]
#5131811 - 01/02/06 04:05 PM (18 years, 3 months ago) |
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Nice. You live in Amsterdam???
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Asante
Omnicyclion prophet
Registered: 02/06/02
Posts: 87,330
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Re: Revised: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls***~~~ [Re: World Spirit]
#5132474 - 01/02/06 06:44 PM (18 years, 3 months ago) |
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Nope, I live in Undisclosed Location
I tend to hang out in the Virgo Supercluster, however.
-------------------- Omnicyclion.org higher knowledge starts here
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World Spirit
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Re: Revised: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls***~~~ [Re: Asante]
#5132503 - 01/02/06 06:52 PM (18 years, 3 months ago) |
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Vertigo6911
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Re: Revised: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls***~~~ [Re: World Spirit]
#5259042 - 02/03/06 12:15 PM (18 years, 2 months ago) |
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just thought id post a little list of what weve accumulated so far. Enter maybe u can shed some light on whats ready and what needs more work etc, that would be helpfull.
-how to start cacti from seeds -henbane (hyoscyamus niger) -Kanna (Scletium tortuosum -Peyote (lophophora spec) -Datura -Poppies (Papaver somniferum) -Passion Flower (Passiflora) -Salvia divinorum -Morning Glories (Ipomea violacea) -Illinois bundleflower(Desmanthus illinoensis) -Psychotria viridis -Syrian Rue (Peganum harmala) -Yopo (Anadenanthera peregrina) -Windowsill Datura (Datura stramonium) -Banisteriopsis caapi
in the meantime i have aquired all the seeds i want to sow, cept for a few still in the mail. so maybe this would be a good time to talk about what kind of experiments can be done with them?
ive posted a list of my seeds in my journal: http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/5259002/an/0/page/0 so we can use that to discuss what and how to catalog my growing attempts and come up with ideas for experiments etc.
-------------------- -Know ye not that ye are gods?- My homepage
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Vertigo6911
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Re: Revised: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls***~~~ [Re: Vertigo6911]
#5330629 - 02/23/06 05:23 AM (18 years, 1 month ago) |
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Hey where the hell is everybody?
-------------------- -Know ye not that ye are gods?- My homepage
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brotherweezley
The Exalted One
Registered: 02/08/06
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Re: Revised: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls***~~~ [Re: Vertigo6911]
#5387576 - 03/10/06 10:25 PM (18 years, 1 month ago) |
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This information is great fellas, its nice that people are taking the initiative to educate intusiuest.
-------------------- --------The Truth------ The Buddha showed that there is suffering in the world. He explained the cause of this suffering. He taught that this suffering could be ended. Finally, he showed the way leading to the end of suffering.
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Vertigo6911
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Re: Revised: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls***~~~ [Re: brotherweezley]
#5388729 - 03/11/06 10:08 AM (18 years, 1 month ago) |
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thxz dude
-------------------- -Know ye not that ye are gods?- My homepage
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CptnGarden
fuck this site
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Re: Revised: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls***~~~ [Re: Vertigo6911]
#5392819 - 03/12/06 06:00 PM (18 years, 1 month ago) |
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lets keep this puppy movin, great stuff so far.
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Vertigo6911
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Re: Revised: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls***~~~ [Re: World Spirit]
#5393624 - 03/12/06 10:03 PM (18 years, 1 month ago) |
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been quiet for a wile now, i guess we need to grow some more stuff and lern some more tricks
anyways i got impatient so i sowed most of my seeds already.
-------------------- -Know ye not that ye are gods?- My homepage
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Frappy
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Re: Revised: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls***~~~ [Re: World Spirit]
#5403212 - 03/15/06 12:23 PM (18 years, 1 month ago) |
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Since there is not much information available online about how to care for this plant, I figured I'd do a write up offering what information I have been able to learn and gather. Please familiarize yourself with these instructions thoroughly; Kratom is not the easiest plant to accommodate.
If you are fortunate enough to acquire one of these wonderful, rare plants chances are you will be receiving a live rooted cutting. Kratom is viable by seed for only a few weeks, so cuttings are the most common way to propagate this plant. If by chance the plant is grown from seed, a fungacide should be used The plant can be purchased online if you know where to find it, but it is often out of stock, as it is rare and a moderately difficult plant to grow and care for. Do not be discouraged, your new plant will thrive, given the proper care and attention.
When your plant arrives, carefully remove the plant from the box, minding use of sharp instruments, cut the tape, not the box in a warmer area, free from drafts to avoid dehydration. Carefully remove all packaging disturbing the plant as little as possible. Your plant may or may not be noticeably wilted. This is to be expected from the shock of transport. Do not be alarmed if it looks a little 'sad'. Keep plant away from direct artificial or natural light for at least a day. A dimly lit room, such as the counter or table top in front of drawn shades or blinds is considered indirect lighting. It needs to adjust to the new environment.
Water the plant generously, but do not allow to stand in water for more than 2-3 hours per day. The plant should 'perk' up within a few hours. Give another drink if needed after being revived.
This plant will need acclimation to direct sunlight. You may acclimate it by gradually increasing the amount of daily exposure 30 minutes to 1 hour per day over the next week or two. Any greater exposure to direct sunlight may risk significant sunburn. Keep a close eye on the plant and adjust accordingly.
Kratom is a very interesting species that will require VERY well-drained soil. I highly recommend Miracle-Gro potting mix as an excellent source of nutrients for proper leaf production and plant stability. Kratom requires an ample amount of lighting that is very bright, however not harsh sun. If adequate lighting is not maintained consistently, leaf drop will occur quite severely until the plant can use what light is available. You may find the use of fluorescent lighting to be amicable and ultimately will be easier to control during the shorter winter months. Consider the plant's native habit, Thailand and Africa, where the tropical zones are moist and warm and days are long. Should artificial lighting be impractical for your needs, 4-5 hours of early morning sun should be sufficient.
The temperature that you may find comfortable will ultimately make your new plant comfortable. Much higher than 90 degrees F and leaf production is slowed slightly, although the plant loves plenty of humidity and higher temps. Much lower than 50 degrees F and the plant will stop growing pretty much altogether; remaining dormant until warmer temperatures are maintained all the while, dropping nearly every leaf. Please understand this plant is tropical in nature and will not survive freezing temperatures.
You should want to water when the very top of soil becomes slightly dry in appearance or to touch. Lack of sufficient water will result in smaller stunted leaves and much slower growth. Misting once or twice daily will help alleviate stress of a drier climate as well help prevent many opportunities for pests which often prefer the dry undersides and joints of plants in general. Kratom prefers fairly damp, VERY well-drained potting soil. I use ONLY miracle-gro potting mix for the Kratom. No moss, no vermiculite, nothing but the potting mix. Root growth, again, is rather slow, allowing you to keep the plant potted longer.
If you do not keep the soil moistened, the leaves will still continue to grow, however, they seem to have a slightly sticky resin that keeps them clasped together before they are actually released from the xylem meristem tissue. The higher the relative moisture the plant is exposed to, the less viscous the sticky resin is; which in turn, allows the mirrored leaves to easily separate from each other. If the moisture content drops even a little, the resin becomes more sticky and the leaflets hold together more tightly. The leaves still emerge, but the stickiness tends to tear the edges slightly like this:
If the moisture content is balanced the leaves will open freely and appear with no tears or serration's like so:
The hard part is just getting the balance between too much and too little, something that is difficult to make 100% perfect because of the ever-changing humidity indoors. A humidifier can be used in combination with misting to emulate a rain forest as best as possible, but don't worry if you have the problems of leaf tears and serrations. The leaves are still very practical, just not as 'pretty'.
The main concern I have found for good leaf production to remain, and the leaves not to fall, is adequate lighting. This plant is going to require more lighting than most plants. If lighting is not appropriate, leaves fall from here to kingdom come. Increasing light exposure to 15 hours timed artificial lighting has shown successful results. I recommend one 40-watt fluorescent GE Gro Tube and one 40-watt Solar spectrum aquarium light. It's buy far the cheapest fix (electricity-wise), however you may have more suitable lighting, or find other ways. Watch your plant closely and you will learn to accommodate it to the most suitable growing environment.
As I have mentioned before, insects are very attracted to Kratom plants. If you chose to put your plant outside, watch it closely. Within one day you may see significant damage to leaves. If this occurs, bring the plant inside immediately. The use of pesticides are strongly discouraged if you plan on using this plant for its medicinal qualities. You can put it in a windowsill and mist daily, but artificial lighting may be more suitable for faster growth. Indoor pests to be aware of are cats. If you share your home with a cat, consider putting the plant in a location that your frisky feline will not be tempted to disturb the plant. Cats have been known to eat the leaves of the plant. While this is not healthy for your plant, there are no known dangers to your cat. It is unlikely that a cat would eat enough of a this plant to experience noticeable side effects.
Kratom leaf with dammage caused by insects:
Kratom plant with dammage from being chewed on by a curious cat:
Watch your plant closely and you will learn to accommodate it to the most suitable growing environment. With lots of love and care your Kratom plant can eventually grow up to be a Kratom tree.
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Vertigo6911
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Re: Revised: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls***~~~ [Re: Frappy]
#5631447 - 05/15/06 05:50 AM (17 years, 11 months ago) |
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thxz for the post frappy
its been a long time since ive seen anything from Enter, im not sure whats up but he hasnt posted since februari...
anybody know wuzzup?
-------------------- -Know ye not that ye are gods?- My homepage
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Vertigo6911
Entheobotanist
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Re: Revised: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls***~~~ [Re: Vertigo6911]
#5796797 - 06/27/06 06:42 PM (17 years, 9 months ago) |
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ok i finaly have something new to say in here:
Passiflora can flower at 1 year of age as a seedling, but as quick as 3 months as a cutting.
-------------------- -Know ye not that ye are gods?- My homepage
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World Spirit
PNW
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Re: Revised: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls***~~~ [Re: Vertigo6911]
#6392101 - 12/20/06 09:07 PM (17 years, 3 months ago) |
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Hello everyone. I've been out of the way for some time now (preoccupied with a new career). I believe its important that this thread continue with new additions and additional information. If you have material to share please do.
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entheodome
Stranger
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propagation of lophophora williamsii [Re: World Spirit]
#6453666 - 01/12/07 08:19 PM (17 years, 3 months ago) |
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1. Climate zone (zone 1, etc)i have noticed this species can be grown in many climate zones.i live in the desert zone 11. 2. Is the plant an Annual, Perennial, Biennial, etc. this is deffinately an evergreen? scratches head. 3. Best way to start from seeds. mix up a nice loamy sand with some good presoaked moist peat moss (peat has anti-fungal properties)plus fine light weight perlite,not pumice.place mixed soil in a plastic container like a zip,can't think of their name,they make zip baggies also.clear plastic storage containers.punch holes in the bottom for drainage.add medium to container,pack down medium lightly.i make a little indention in the soil every cm. so i know the seed gets in the indention.do not cover seed with soil,just press in a bit more.creates a little water collecting area after placing 1 seed in every indention, and covering container with container lid with 1 hole poked into lid at each end.place in a nice well lit warm spot.78 d. humidity inside little container probably 100% if done properly.flouro's work well for a nice climate with also using a ceramic heat lamp in cold climates. they will be grafted or transplanted before crowding which would take years.take in mind that lophophora williamsii and other var.spp. grow a carrot like tap root unlike trichocereus pachanoi/peruvianus.i usually use a medium deep pot for lophs. such as 4" deep clay pots.tricho's get 5 gal. plastic pots or in the ground. 4. Frost - will it survive a heavy/light/long frost? frost hardy 5. How much shade/sun? partial sun unless acclimated 6. How often does it get watered?mine get watered in warm months once every 2-3 days depending on weather. 7. How long from the time you plant the seed til its ready for (partial or full?) harvest?seed to harvest-7-15+ years.grafted 3-7 years. 8. Dormancy-seeds probably using cold stratification would maybe have better germ. rates but i'm not greedy and just do them this way as i explain. 9. Ideal soil mix good loamy sand,peat,perlite,not pumice 10. Ideal fertilizer if any- earth juice when 2 months old 11. Container growing tips- i have covered this. 12. Common pests and diseases to watch out for. Also any other sensitivities the plant may have. don't over water after seedling stage. 13. Health warnings (IE: wear gloves when harvesting tobacco)can't think of any? 14. Ideal propagation methods i think i covered that? 15. If indoors, what type of lighting should be used? flouro's
-------------------- when you become one with nature,nature becomes one with you.if you never try it you will never know the truth!
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entheodome
Stranger
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how to grow article [Re: entheodome]
#6459803 - 01/14/07 06:52 PM (17 years, 3 months ago) |
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sorry people. here is what i did. i use a mixture of sand from surrounding cacti,plenty of perlite,and rich potting soil.i like to use those zippy clear storage containers with several holes poked in to the bottom for drainage.2 holes in each lid,one on each side to vent excess humidity.
place soil mix into containers,spray soil mix with a diluted fungicide.i make small indention's into the soil like i stated before in last post.just press seeds in a bit.DO NOT BURY. light dependent seeds.i spray again several times to insure container soil is moist through out but not wet.i place on lid and germinate under 24 hours of flouro's until spring is here.i usually get pretty good germ. rates at 75 f.container has around 100% humidity since lid is on.i let them sit undisturbed for about a week and check them.usually the containers after a week will have a few sprouts,and more to come for the next few weeks,sometimes months.usually weeks.i have noticed better germ rates without using a propagation heat mat.
i never germinate or start anything outdoor!
-------------------- when you become one with nature,nature becomes one with you.if you never try it you will never know the truth!
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S8N
PIMP
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Re: how to grow article [Re: entheodome]
#7224805 - 07/26/07 01:03 AM (16 years, 8 months ago) |
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angryhippie
Stranger
Registered: 04/21/06
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Loc: California
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o man i just discovered this thread and theres some great plant growin info, i really would love if someone here posted on HBWR from seed
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extrajordanary
Stranger
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Re: Revised: Add a "How to grow Opium Poppies" - Growing Guide - Papaver Somniferum [Re: World Spirit]
#7309325 - 08/19/07 01:05 AM (16 years, 7 months ago) |
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Here is a "Papaver Somniferum Opium Poppy" growing guide of mine with photos. I could only figure out how to post my link below, but feel free to re-post it in any other way if you can figure out how to :
Click on link below "Growing Opium Poppies"
or go here : http://www.geocities.com/jjjooorrrdddaaannn/growing_poppies.html
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Gr33nday43
Registered: 01/05/08
Posts: 410
Loc: Manchester, UK
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls *DELETED* [Re: Legoulash]
#7837971 - 01/06/08 01:02 AM (16 years, 3 months ago) |
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Post deleted by Gr33nday43Reason for deletion: That's a secret.
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Zinglons Acolyte
Wizard Ninja
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: Gr33nday43]
#7892106 - 01/17/08 08:41 AM (16 years, 3 months ago) |
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i would like to know how fast kanna would grow, and if it likes hydroponics or not
-------------------- And they wandered off.. nine ways till bedfast. ----- "And lets pray that there's intelligent life somewhere up in space 'cause theres bugger-all down here on earth!" -Monty Python's "The Universe Song" from The Meaning of Life "In the beginning, the universe was created. This has made a lot of people very angry and has been widely considered as a bad move." -Douglas Adams "The Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy" "If the words 'life, liberty and the pursuit of happiness' don't include the right to experiment with your own consciousness, then the Declaration of Independence isn't worth the hemp it was written on." -Terence McKenna
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AtticusProphet
just a tool
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: Zinglons Acolyte]
#8002853 - 02/09/08 10:10 PM (16 years, 2 months ago) |
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< mod edit - yeah this is an old post but trades belong in the marketplace so i'm editing it >
-------------------- There's just one small problem... ...and it's a big one!
Edited by Dr. uarewotueat (04/28/09 12:42 AM)
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Gr33nday43
Registered: 01/05/08
Posts: 410
Loc: Manchester, UK
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Re: Revised: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls***~~~ *DELETED* [Re: World Spirit]
#9009027 - 09/30/08 04:09 PM (15 years, 6 months ago) |
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Post deleted by Gr33nday43Reason for deletion: That's a secret.
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World Spirit
PNW
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Re: Revised: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls***~~~ [Re: Gr33nday43]
#9353838 - 12/02/08 07:58 PM (15 years, 4 months ago) |
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Here's an article from ethnobotany.suite101.com on Calea zacatechichi
http://ethnobotany.suite101.com/article.cfm/unusual_plants_growing_calea_zacatechichi
The copyright of the article Unusual Plants: Growing Calea Zacatechichi in Ethnobotany is owned by Kevin Gustina. Permission to republish Unusual Plants: Growing Calea Zacatechichi in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.
Edited by Enter (12/02/08 07:59 PM)
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Cultosaurus
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Re: Revised: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls***~~~ [Re: World Spirit]
#9392061 - 12/08/08 01:05 PM (15 years, 4 months ago) |
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Quote:
Enter said: Here's an article from ethnobotany.suite101.com on Calea zacatechichi
http://ethnobotany.suite101.com/article.cfm/unusual_plants_growing_calea_zacatechichi
The copyright of the article Unusual Plants: Growing Calea Zacatechichi in Ethnobotany is owned by Kevin Gustina. Permission to republish Unusual Plants: Growing Calea Zacatechichi in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.
Thanks from me too. Someone else requested it, but I also need the info.
I've had some Calea seeds for several months now, waiting for time in my indoor garden, and a little more info.
I like what I've read about it. I'm looking forward to seeing what she does.
Peace Cult
-------------------- A Coming Out of Retirement Psychonaughtical Traveler
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SKA
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Re: Revised: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls***~~~ [Re: Cultosaurus]
#9427074 - 12/13/08 09:37 PM (15 years, 4 months ago) |
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Sweet EthnoFarming guide.
Does anyone here have any usefull cultivation guides concerning Acacia's (specificly Acacia Simplex/Simplicifolia & Acacia Podalyriifolia)? SWIM's learned they contain 0.81% DMT in bark and 0.5% to 2% DMT in fresh bark respectively
Any other Cultivation guides/information about significantly DMT rich plants, preparably relatively easy to grow and harvest would also be nice.
SWIM lives in Northern Europe and wants to grow entheogenic plants like Salvia, Peyote, San Pedro, Acacias and other DMT-rich plants, Morning Glories, Calea Zacatechichi..etc So cultivation guides concerning these, especially Acacias and other DMT rich plants, would come in handy for SWIM.
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Ledd
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Re: Revised: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls***~~~ [Re: SKA]
#9429932 - 12/14/08 12:06 PM (15 years, 4 months ago) |
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It would be really sweet if when everyone grew one plant at the same time, if the source for seeds or cuttings was different for everyone and then potency/efficacy was somehow rated. The the community could spread good product to all its members.
-------------------- We mean nothing we do not mean to do.
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World Spirit
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Re: Revised: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls***~~~ [Re: Ledd]
#9431799 - 12/14/08 05:59 PM (15 years, 4 months ago) |
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Ledbonzo86 ~ That's the type of logic we need to follow thru with. Well said.
As for the Acacia simplex, please read this article. Although brief, the lack of information is actually profound.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acacia_simplex
Also: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acacia_simplicifolia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acacia_podalyriifolia
< mod edit - no source discussion or vendor links in the ethnogarden! >
I have to say that an initial search for this info is insufficient. Anyone want to join in??
Extremely rare tree or shrub to 40 feet, with broad, oval, pointed 2 - 4" leaves, and small flower-balls followed by 6" pods. Endemic to New Caledonia and Vanuatu, often growing in seashore dunes. Does well in Florida—try it in S. California and Texas. Nick seed to germinate in 2 - 4 weeks. Alkaloid-rich, and scarce as hen's teeth! A way to maximize germination of these expensive seed: Nick seed with a file then soak for 15 minutes in a solution made of 1 part household bleach and 8 parts water. Rinse them well. Fold a paper towel into quarters and put on a plate that has been sterilized with bleach. Moisten the towel with distilled water and put the seeds (nicked side down) on the towel and cover with plastic wrap, leaving an air space above the seeds. Keep in a warm place (70 - 80°F) and inspect every day. Any seeds that don't swell in a day or two should be re-nicked and sterilized. Any seeds that develop mold should be removed and re-sterilized and put on a separate plate - most of these will sprout, too, but this keeps the others clean. When the roots are a half-inch long, plant the seed in a light, well-drained seed-starting mix, and keep warm. If you have had trouble with these in the past, try this method and you are sure to be successful! Gives high germination with this method.
Edited by Dr. uarewotueat (04/28/09 12:30 AM)
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SKA
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Re: Revised: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls***~~~ [Re: World Spirit]
#9551600 - 01/05/09 02:52 PM (15 years, 3 months ago) |
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So information regarding Acacia (specifically A.Podalyriifolia & A.Simplex/Simplicifolia) Cultivation from seed, it's Climate-needs[Air Humidity, Temperature, amount of Sunlight, winterfrost-survival], prefered Soil, Pruning..etc is really that rare?
Doesn't anyone of you have one of those handy ethnobotanical/phytochemical books that say anything about Acacia Cultivation and/or Harvest/Alkaloid profile & Alkaloid content that they could quote here and share with me?
< mod edit - no source discussion or requests in the ethnogarden, thanks! > Considering SWIM lives in the North West-European, not so tropical or sunny Netherlands.
Edited by Dr. uarewotueat (04/28/09 12:26 AM)
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World Spirit
PNW
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Re: Revised: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls***~~~ [Re: SKA]
#9553232 - 01/05/09 07:12 PM (15 years, 3 months ago) |
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SKA,
Here's a couple of things to check out for Acacia:
http://www.erowid.org/plants/acacia/acacia.shtml
http://www.anbg.gov.au/acacia/#PROPAGATION
http://www.hort.purdue.edu/newcrop/nexus/Acacia_spp_nex.html
I wish I had time to go to these links and read them right now. If you happen to look at them and find solid information please update us.
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Hobachi Ofunlo
Journeyman
Registered: 01/02/09
Posts: 15
Loc: Texas,U.S.,
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Re: Revised: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls***~~~ [Re: World Spirit]
#9610445 - 01/14/09 07:13 PM (15 years, 3 months ago) |
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You guys are freakin awwwwsome,I've just ordered some Passion flower seeds and they should be in soon,still searchin for salvia divinorum,I think I'll have to wait till early spring for a guy in Houston that distributes cuttings,I have to find out if San Pedro is legal in my area but I think i saw a distributer in my area,might have been a diff variety,But I will post all as soon as i get any info,once again,FFFrrreeaakkiinn AAAWWSSOOMMME.
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World Spirit
PNW
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Posts: 9,817
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: Zinglons Acolyte]
#9617620 - 01/15/09 09:08 PM (15 years, 3 months ago) |
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Sceletium tortuosum - "Kanna"
Courtesy: http://www.sceletium.org/cultivation.html
Growing Sceletium
SCELETIUM is a small genus of low growing succulent shrubs in the ice plant family (Aizoaceae) endemic to the karroo areas of Western, Eastern and Northern Cape Provinces in South Africa. The succulent leaves grow in pairs and eventually die away leaving persistent leaf vein skeletons clothing the lower stems, which protect the plants from adverse environmental conditions. The small flowers vary in color from white to yellow and occasionally pale orange or pink.
Most of the Sceletium species are mostly unknown in cultivation and endangered in habitat. Plant gatherers in South Africa have observed that wild populations of Sceletium tortuosum are becoming increasingly scarce, possibly due to over collection. Protection through cultivation is encouraged.
Starting off Sceletium is easily grown, and seeds are sprouted much the same as any common cacti. Mature plants also root easily from cuttings. Sceletium can become weedy if over-watered and overfed. Some species are tolerant of mild frost, but it's best not to bring them outdoors until the last frost has passed.
Growing on The soil should be allowed to dry out between watering if growing in a pot. Obviously the size of the pot is a variable where this is concerned but as long as the plant body remains firm looking with no signs of wrinkling, then resist the temptation to over-water. Make this judgment on cooler days; during very hot and sunny periods, most plants will have a tendency to wrinkle especially if they are in a greenhouse. If in doubt, don't water.
Watering Sceletium is something of a balancing act... too little and the plants become stunted... too much and they rot or, at best, they start making new bodies at the wrong time of year (if this happens stop watering until the first body has been consumed by the new). After a year or two you will get to know how the plants behave in your particular situation.
So, water sparingly until shoot and root growth is well established. Then increase watering and apply a well-balanced liquid feed periodically. Good light is essential so that plants produce strong, sturdy growth. Ideally maintain a minimum temperature of 16ºC or 60ºC, although plants will tolerate cooler conditions. Any general purpose compost with some added grit to help drainage is suitable or any of the propriety cactus composts is ideal. An occasional feed as for houseplants is permissible but don't over do it, Sceletium plants require little in the way of nutrients.
Planting out and aftercare The planting site should be open and sunny and the soil can be enriched with general cactus soil or compost as was used when they were in a pot. Space the Sceletium plants some distance apart because they creep along the ground, much like plants that propagate through rhizomes, and they can take up a lot of ground space in a short amount of time when cared for properly.
Overwintering After the first frosts lift the rhizomes and move them to a frost-free glasshouse or shed. Ensure plants are properly labeled. Pack the roots in pots, covered with compost or bark, and keep them just moist throughout the winter.
When you receive seedlings Take great care with unwrapping - new shoots at this stage are extremely fragile, and a shoot broken off represents a lost flowering shoot. Sceletium has a lot of water content, and in travelling, they can become dehydrated and less pliable.
The seedlings should be immediately potted up, irrespective of the time of year. Use any general purpose cactus soil, and place the pots in a light airy frost-free place. A cool greenhouse with heat only when frost threatens is ideal. Keep the compost slightly moist (not dry, not over-wet), until the growing season starts.
If immediate potting is impractical, the seedlings should be covered in damp peat. Sceletium seedlings do not normally enter a totally dormant stage, and if they are thoroughly dried out, then some will be lost. (This is perhaps one reason why Kannas are not often sold in garden centers - they do not appreciate being kept for long periods in a handful of dry sawdust in pre-packs - many are lost leading to complaints).
If the Sceletium plants are intended for indoor cultivation, then they may be potted up immediately and grown on under heat.
As with many rhizomatous plants, not every seedling will grow (Sceletium growers are happy with an 80% success rate), although some will throw up 2 or 3 shoots.
Pests and diseases In the spring, newly emerging shoots should be sprayed for aphids, though aphids are not often a problem with grown plants.
Young plants should be protected from slugs and snails which ignore the open leaves but have a preference for the newly unrolling leaves. A single nibble at this stage by a slug will cause a disfiguring row of holes as the leaf unfurls that will remain with the plant for several months. Older plants are not often troubled by slugs and snails.
Red Spider Mite can occasionally infest indoor Sceletium plants. The symptoms are dry-looking leaves which turn uniformly brown. When examined closely on the underside, such leaves show traces of a white powder (which is the dried egg-cases) particularly near the central leaf rib, and myriads of extremely tiny creatures all running around. You really need a magnifying glass to see them. To answer a common query, Red Spider Mites are not often red in color. Red Spider Mite is immune to most if not all proprietary preparations available to the amateur. Soap-based insecticides combined with a powerful spray can dislodge and/or suffocate them, and minimize the problem to an acceptable level.
Sceletium plant virus disease is more widespread than is commonly appreciated. It is initially recognized by pale colored spots and streaks in leaves, and by distorted or crinkly leaves. Later, badly affected plants show dead rust-colored streaks in the leaves, throughout the plant, and the growth is badly stunted. The plant may still flower, but the flowers may have a distorted shape with white patches. Little is known about Sceletium plany virus - some plants are badly affected and may die of their own accord, or remain badly stunted, but other plants show only a mild infection of one or two leaves and seem to be able to recover. There is no known cure for virus diseased plants, and plants that are obviously diseased should be dug up and destroyed.
Additionally....
From < mod edit - vendor link removed, you need to read the ethnogarden forum rules, you have been around a long time and they have been updated long ago > :
Sceletium tortuosum is a low to the ground creeper that produces white flowers of considerable aesthetic appeal. It is known as a succulent, which means that it has special characteristics which enable it to thrive in a hostile (in this case, low water) environment. Sceletium tortuosum has an exceptional ability to store water, limiting evaporation to the bare minimum and thus is able to thrive even in very low rainfall areas.
The plant grows well in winter and in summer the leaves skeletonize.
Stocks of wild Sceletium tortuosum plants have dwindled from over-harvesting over centuries, and more recently from habitat-destruction. No wild sceletium plant material should be used in commercial supplements, and manufacturers must insist on certificates of origin for Sceletium raw material. A number of groups in South Africa, including local communities, are growing Sceletium on a small scale. Some of these ensure that only high-quality material is sold, while in others raw material quality has been variable.
Over many years seed supply companies have made Sceletium seeds available, and the Sceletium plant is grown hydroponically in the United Kingdom, Netherlands and USA, accounting for an increasing availability of plant material on the world market. However, only small quantities of top-grade raw material, blended and standardize post-harvest, are available seasonally.
From http://www.sceletium.org/ :
Sceletium - Kougoed - A natural mood elevator
Sceletium tortuosum is a small groundcover plant native to Southern Africa. For hundreds of years the Hottentots of Southern Africa used Sceletium tortuosum as a mood enhancer, relaxant and empathogen. It is also known as Kanna or Kauwgoed, Kougoed and Canna.
Historically Sceletium tortuosum was chewed, smoked or used as snuff producing euphoria and alertness which gently fade into relaxation. If chewed in sufficient quantity Sceletium has a mild aneasthetic effect in the mouth, much like kava, and is used by the San tribes if you are about to have a tooth extracted, or in minute doses, for children with colic. A tea made from Sceletium is sometimes used to wean alcoholics off alcohol. History
Sceletium tortuosum has a long history of use in South African. In fact it is in it's 4th century of recorded use there. With written records dating back to 1662, Sceletium was a bartering currency. Traditionally, the prepared dried plant material was chewed and the saliva swallowed, but it has also been made into teas and tinctures. Less commonly, it has been reported that it used to be inhaled as a snuff, or smoked, usually with the addition of other herbs.
The plant was used in rural areas in very small doses as a treatment for colic in infants, added to a teaspoon of breast milk, and this use still survives in some local communities.
Chemistry and Pharmacology
The mood-elevating action of sceletium is caused by a number of alkaloids including mesembrine, mesembrenol and tortuosamine which interact with the brain's dopamine and serotonin receptors. Mesembrine is a major alkaloid present in Sceletium. Mesembrine has been demonstrated to be a potent serotonin-uptake inhibitor.
This receptor-specific activity, and receptor activities also found on nicotinic, dopamine and nor-adrenaline sites certainly validate the traditional mood-elevating uses, and suggest additional therapeutic and wellness potential.
By isolating this and other bio-chemically active compounds, researchers are now confirming what many people have known for many hundreds of years, that Sceletium has a remarkable ability to effectively treat symptoms of anxiety.
Mesembrine is an alkaloid which is derived from the Sceletium Tortuosum plant and is now being acknowledged as a key active component in the ability of the plant to produce beneficial effects which are closely related to it are the alkaloids mesembrenone, mesembrenol and tortuosamine, which are also present and produce very similar effects to mesembrine.
It is a confirmed serotonin (re)-uptake inhibitor, as understood by the US Patent office, which means that it regulates the effects of one of the brain's most important neurotransmitters.
Benefits and Uses
Tablets and capsules of Sceletium are being used successfully by a number of psychiatrists, psychologists and doctors with excellent results for anxiety states and mild to moderate depression; and they can also be used by the lay public as supplements to elevate mood and for stress and tension.
In addition to Sceletium's common use for the stress and mental fatigue of modern industrial living, Sceletium has been used as a natural supplement in:
* uplifts the mood * decrease anxiety, stress and tension * gives you energy
Sceletium elevates mood and decreases anxiety, stress and tension. It has also been used as an appetite suppressant by shepherds walking long distances in arid areas. In intoxicating doses it can cause euphoria, initially with stimulation and later with sedation. Long-term use in the local context followed by abstinence has not been reported to result in a withdrawal state. The plant is not hallucinogenic, and no severe adverse effects have been documented.
Sceletium is also being used as a natural anti-depressant that is said to be safer than many pharmaceutical alternatives.
Individuals suffering from depression and anxiety can benefit from Sceletium.
Mesembrine works thus:
The brain is made up of countless neurons, which transmit signals to each other only by jumping the gap (synapse) to neighboring neurons. The signal cannot however jump the synapse without assistance.
The message can only travel when the neuron releases a neurotransmitter to fill this gap and allow the signal to transient via it.
The receiving neuron has many points on its surface that which act as potential locks, each of which is known as a receptor and is effected by a particular type of neurotransmitter. When sufficient amounts of the neurotransmitter are received by the relevant receptor, a nerve impulse is started and the message continues to its ultimate destination. To permit recovery of the neuron to receive new messages, the brain takes away the neurotransmitter from the neuron receptors and permitting it to be sent back to the originating nerves, a process known as re-uptake.
In individuals suffering from depression, the neurotransmitter serotonin (also known as 5-hydroxytryptamine) is lacking. Mesembrine slows down the re-uptake process, making it more probable there will be more serotonin in the relevant receptors, greatly increasing the possibility that there will be sufficient levels to set up the signal transfer in all neighboring neurons.
Mesembrine allows the brain to function with reduced levels of serotonin, allowing time for natural levels to build up, whereupon the mesembrine dosage can be reduced or eliminated.
Doses A typical dose is between 50mg and 100mg once or twice day, usually taken after breakfast and after lunch. Less commonly this can be increased to 100mg twice a day, if necessary. In drug rehabilitation programs, under a physicians or psychiatrists supervision, the dose needed may be as high as 200mg twice a day.
Side Effects
Very few people experience side-effects. The reported side-effects include occasional episodes of:
* Mild headache * Slight nausea, no vomiting * Soft stool or loose stool with no cramping * Transient increase in anxiety or irritability an hour after initiating treatment, which resolves after an hour or so * Insomnia: corrected by lowering the dose or taking the product not later than midday * A feeling of sedation: corrected by taking the product as a single 50mg dose at night
NO severe adverse effects have been documented.
Contraindications
There have been no confirmed reports of drug interactions, However, because of the nero-receptor activities of Sceletium there may be interactions with other pharmacokinetiv drugs. People taking any psychiatric drug (including all anti-anxiety drugs, sedatives, hypnotics, antidepressants and anti-psychotics and so-called designer or recreational drugs) or any cardiac medications, are advised not to take Sceletium-containing products.
As with most supplements and modern drugs, safety in pregnancy has not been established.
Sceletium is used to rebalance the brain and nervous system and thereby relieve symptoms of depression. Combined with other well known herbs, this formulation has been proven to be extremely effective and safe.
Sceletium and Mesembrine
Pharmaceutical Biology 1998, Vol.36, No.3, pp. 173-179 © Swets & Zeitlinger
The Distribution of Mesembrine Alkaloids in Selected Taxa of Kanna and their Modification in the Sceletium Derived `Kougoed' Michael T. Smith , Courtney R. Field , Neil R. Crouch and Manton Hirst Univ. Natal, Botany Dept., Pietermaritzburg, South Africa Natal Herbarium, Ethnobotany Programme, National Botanical Institute, Kaffrarian Museum, Kingwilliam's Town, South Africa
Twenty species from nine genera of the Mesembryanthemaceae (Aptenia, Bergeranthus, Delosperma, Drosanthemum, Glottiphyllum, Lampranthus, Oscularia, Ruschia, and Sceletium) as well as the reportedly psychoactive preparation `kougoed', prepared from `fermenting' Sceletium tortuosum, were screened for the presence of the mesembrine alkaloids. Using gas chromatography (GC) with a nitrogen-phosphorous detector (NPD) three putative alkaloids were detected in Sceletium tortuosum whose mass spectra corresponded to those of 4'-O-demethylmesembrenol, mesembrine and mesembrenone. All the Mesembryanthemaceae plants investigated were shown to have Dragendorff-positive compounds on thin layer chromatograms (TLC); those containing mesembrine alkloids, as shown by later GC MS analysis, exhibited similar Rf values to the Sceletium alkaloids. Howev! er, using the technique employed in this study which encompassed the use of column and gas chromatography, the only genus containing mesembrine alkaloids to any significant extent was Aptenia. Alkaloid levels were found to be extremely low in all other taxa investigated. When a `modern' technique for the preparation of a fermented Sceletium product, `kougoed', was carried out it was found that levels, as well as the ratios, of the three alkaloids changed markedly. Substantial increases in total alkaloid levels were observed when the Sceletium material was crushed and bruised prior to drying for alkaloid extraction whereas no such changes occured when intact plants were oven dried at 80°C prior to alkaloid extraction. It is speculated that of the many potentially usable Mesembryanthemaceae plants available to the indigenous peoples, Sceletium was selected because it is the only genus with alkaloid levels high enough to! eli cit a psychoactive response. The traditional preparation technique also appears to have evolved as a method of producing a dry, stable, and relatively palatable preparation of increased pharmacological activity.
Keywords: 4'-O-demethylmesembrenol, ethnopharmacology, `kougoed', mesembrenone, mesembrine, Mesembryanthemaceae, pharmacological activity, psychoactive, Sceletium
The Distribution of Mesembrine Alkaloids in Selected Taxa of Kanna and their Modification in the Sceletium Derived `Kougoed' by Smith MT, Field CR, Crouch NR, Hirst M Originally published in Pharmaceutical Biology 1998; 36(3): 173-179. Michael T. Smith , Courtney R. Field , Neil R. Crouch and Manton Hirst Univ. Natal, Botany Dept., Pietermaritzburg, South Africa Natal Herbarium, Ethnobotany Programme, National Botanical Institute Kaffrarian Museum, Kingwilliam's Town, South Africa
ABSTRACT Twenty species from nine genera of the Mesembryanthemaceae (Aptenia, Bergeranthus, Delosperma, Drosanthemum, Glottiphyllum, Lampranthus, Oscularia, Ruschia, and Sceletium) as well as the reportedly psychoactive preparation `kougoed', prepared from `fermenting' Sceletium tortuosum, were screened for the presence of the mesembrine alkaloids. Using gas chromatography (GC) with a nitrogen-phosphorous detector (NPD) three putative alkaloids were detected in Sceletium tortuosum whose mass spectra corresponded to those of 4'-O-demethylmesembrenol, mesembrine and mesembrenone. All the Mesembryanthemaceae plants investigated were shown to have Dragendorff-positive compounds on thin layer chromatograms (TLC); those containing mesembrine alkloids, as shown by later GC MS analysis, exhibited similar Rf values to the Sceletium alkaloids. Howev! er, using the technique employed in this study which encompassed the use of column and gas chromatography, the only genus containing mesembrine alkaloids to any significant extent was Aptenia. Alkaloid levels were found to be extremely low in all other taxa investigated. When a `modern' technique for the preparation of a fermented Sceletium product, `kougoed', was carried out it was found that levels, as well as the ratios, of the three alkaloids changed markedly. Substantial increases in total alkaloid levels were observed when the Sceletium material was crushed and bruised prior to drying for alkaloid extraction whereas no such changes occured when intact plants were oven dried at 80°C prior to alkaloid extraction. It is speculated that of the many potentially usable Mesembryanthemaceae plants available to the indigenous peoples, Sceletium was selected because it is the only genus with alkaloid levels high enough to! eli cit a psychoactive response. The traditional preparation technique also appears to have evolved as a method of producing a dry, stable, and relatively palatable preparation of increased pharmacological activity.
Keywords: 4'-O-demethylmesembrenol, ethnopharmacology, `kougoed', mesembrenone, mesembrine, Mesembryanthemaceae, pharmacological activity, psychoactive, Sceletium
Sources - Where to buy the best!
* Sceletium.Com Sceletium.Com sell dry, milled Sceletium tortuosum. The Sceletium sold at Sceletium.Com is specifically grown for them and is of the highest quality available. None of the Sceletium tortuosum sold at Sceletium.Com is wild-harvested. * AfricanBotanicals.Com Sceletium, Sceletium Pro and other interesting African herbal supplements are sold at AfricanBotanicals.Com including: Sutherlandia frutescens. * Terra Treatment Terra Treatment offer Sutherlandia capsules which are shipped from The Netherlands to individuals in Europe and worldwide. They offer Sceletium tablets and capsules. * AfricanHerbs.info AfricanHerbs offer information on Sceletium and other African plants in both English and Dutch. * Big Tree Health Products Big Tree does not sell Sceletium online, but they do have more information. Big Tree Health make pure sceletium tablets and a sceletium formula.
Edited by Dr. uarewotueat (04/28/09 12:17 AM)
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SKA
Stranger
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: World Spirit]
#9631107 - 01/18/09 10:28 AM (15 years, 3 months ago) |
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Allright thanks for the Acacia info. I've been checking several Acacia's DMT content and the most desirable, DMT rich Acacias turned out to be Acacia Podalyriifolia, Acacia Simplex(Simplicifolia) and Acacia Confusa. Acacia Longifolia and Acacia Maidenii come on the 4th and 5th place.
I've seen alot of people here posting pictures of Acacias they're growing and wondered wether they might perhaps share some of their personal cultivation-methods & experiences concerning these Acacias. Especially those that have grown DMT-rich Acacias in Colder climates such as that of The Netherlands.
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HarveyWalbanger
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: World Spirit]
#10036587 - 03/25/09 12:18 AM (15 years, 27 days ago) |
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Carnivorous Plant FAQ
< mod edit - find the worm composting info on a non vendor site please, or just copy and paste the text instead of linking >
Edited by Dr. uarewotueat (04/28/09 12:12 AM)
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fantasylndvictm
yup
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I just have to add that this thread is amazing thank you everyone for putting all this great information and techniques in here. It's really helpful for someone like me who has no knowledge of any of this, but wants to learn.
-------------------- "How do we know whether the life of any creature has fulfilled its destiny? I have known the very old to die in bitterness and despair. I have seen young children die before their time but leave behind such a legacy of love and joy that grief for their passing was tempered by the knowledge that their brief lives had given much to others." "You have answered your own question,Tanis Half-Elven, far better than I could," the Forestmaster said gravely. "Say that that our lives are measured not by gain but by giving." -Dragonlance "Dragons of Autumn Twilight" If we lived in luxury we would grow soft. No human being truely knows their full capacity to love until they become a parent.
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World Spirit
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A r g y r e i a nervosa
Seed preparation A slight nick should be made away from the germ eye. (Show me: Here's the nicking process: Take very sharp scissors and make a shallow snip away from the germ eye, just piercing the se ed coat. This is a fast and easy process. After this is complete, it is recommended to soak the seeds in water for approximately 24 hours, or at least overnight. (If nicked properly, the seeds swell dramatically).
Planting the seeds Some people place each seed approximately 1 to 2 inches (2 to 4cm) in potting soil with a good drainage system. It is very important during the first stages of growth to keep the soil moist, though well drained, as saturation must be avoided. It is important to keep the mix well aerated. Soon, leaves will develop. If the leaves receive too much light they will scorch or wilt; this is also seen with lack of watering.
Above: Argyeria nervosa seeds
Within the first one to two years of growth, this plant grows into a compact bush. After that, some of the leaves will fall off and it will elongate into vines. The vines have been known to grow up to 31 feet (10m) in length. If consistent water availability is not maintained, these vines may die out before reaching that point and new ones will have to start. The vine will dry out to the closest node during this point. It is very well adapted to a dry tropical climate such as areas near rivers and creeks but with a distinct wet and dry season. It is not naturally found in the Wet tropics. A 5-gallon bucket is suitable for starting two healthy plants. The massive root system of this plant can cause the plant to become rootbound within the first year or so. For example, a 5-year-old plant in a 15-gallon pot (after only six months) will begin to show signs of becoming rootbound. It is suggested to use a 55-gallon drum or a feeding trough (commonly used for livestock and horses). The plant can start growing flowers as early as 18 months from seed. For this to occur, there must be sufficient watering and adequate room for the roots to grow; it can take up to five years for the first signs of flowering to become visible. The seeds will be found in the pods of the dried flowers. These cannot be harvested until completely dried. There are 3 to 5 seeds, commonly 4, per woodrose. Please read several accurate sources before growing and use intelligence in secluding. Native to eastern India, Hawaiian Baby Woodrose has been naturalized and cultivated in Hawaii. This lovely vine is covered with huge heart-shaped leaves as much as a foot across and are backed with silvery-white hairs. Three inch trumpet shaped blooms are rosy-pink with a deep purple throat and are held high on 6 inch stems. Seed pods mature to smooth dark brown and are surrounded by five petal-like sections resembling a wooden rose which are valued by flower arrangers. Growing to 15 feet or more, it typically enjoys warm temperatures and must be brought indoors in cold weather.
Argyreia forms a 1-2 foot bush in the first year from sowing, but grows quickly after the second year are loaded with lovely blooms that will produce seed. Sensitive to overwatering, keep the top inch or so on the dry side and grow in filtered sunlight.
More Detailed Info
Growing Argyreia nervosa (Also called Hawaiian Baby Woodrose) Natural Growing Conditions Hawaiian Baby Woodrose (Argyreia nervosa), not to be confused with the Hawaiian Woodrose (Merremia tuberosa), is a perennial climbing vine, also known as Elephant Creeper and Woolly Morning Glory. Native to the Indian subcontinent and introduced to numerous areas worldwide, including Hawaii, Africa and the Caribbean, it can be invasive, although is often prized for its aesthetic value. Germination HBWR has a very tough seed coat and nicking aids in germination a lot. This is how I nick them. Take very sharp scissors and make a shallow snip away from the germ eye, just piercing the seed coat. Alternatively you can take a file a file away a bit, again away from the germ eye. Some people recommend pouring boiling water over the freshly nicked seeds, and to let them sit over night, I have found this is not necessary. Plant in free draining soil (HBWR is somewhat susceptible to rot) In any event if the seeds are good germination should occur in less than a week. Lighting HBWR does not like a lot of light when it is young. I put my seedlings in direct light every day until they show some signs of wilting, then take them out. This way the seedlings are getting the maximum amount of sunlight they can handle and soon adapt to it and pump out as much growth as possible. Alternatively you can start them off outside in pots in full sun. This way they will adapt to lots of light very quickly, again take them out of the sun when they show signs of wilting. Water Keep soil moist but not wet. As I mentioned they seem to be somewhat vulnerable to rot when they are young. Still make sure to water regularly. If they remain dry to long they will start to wilt and appear to have gotten too much sun. I have lost many plants thinking they where simply getting too much light when all it was was low moisture. Once well established HBWR, unlike its close relative Morning Glory, is a very slow grower, and can take up to two years to even reach a foot tall. I feed mine regularly with Peters 20,20,20, which it seems to respond well to. I'm sure any fertilizer will do. Also I recommend worm castings when younger (big fisherman and always have a bunch laying around:)). Whatever you use just make sure to start off with half the recommended strength. Flowering and seeds Let me start off by saying.... Good luck with that if you don't live in a tropical climate. I got a lot of flowers one year which eventually led to a couple seed pods. I hear the most important factor in getting them to flower (which I believe is true about any plant) is enough space for the roots. HBWR gets potbound very easily after its first year or so of growth... you think she's barely growing but it seems to focus her energy on growing roots. As I said I keep mine in a 20 gallon pot and its still potbound until I move it outside for the season. I can't think of any practical container that could be used to give its massive root system space, a 55 gallon oil drum perhaps.
Edited by Enter (04/27/09 11:10 PM)
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World Spirit
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: HarveyWalbanger]
#10246592 - 04/27/09 11:08 PM (14 years, 11 months ago) |
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http://www.plot55.com/growing/a.colubrina.html
Anadenanthera Peregrina (Yopo) seeds
Growing Anadenanthera colubrina
Cebíl, Vilca Anadenthera colubrina - Vilca, Cebíl Natural Growing Conditions
Anadenthera colubrina grows as a tree up to 20 metres in height. It is often found with knotty or thorny bark. Its leaves are of the mimosa type, a little like fern fronds. It has white to pale yellow spherical flowers, which form clusters and are covered in fine white hairs. The flat, burgandy-brown seeds are formed in pea-like pods, up to 35cm in length and containing anything up to 10 seeds each. It grows in open grassland throughout the Southern Andes. The climate is tropical to subtropical. Growing from Seed
Fresh seeds germinate very easily, but seeds sold for entheogenic purposes are likely be too old and are unlikely to germinate. It is important to buy only seeds sold as 'viable' if you intend to grow this species.
The seeds should be pre-soaked in sterile water for 24 hours. Boil the water and leave to cool to room temperature before submerging the seeds. The seeds and seedlings are very prone to rot so it is best to germinate in a medium containing no organic matter. Sharp horticultural sand, perlite and vermiculite are all suitable. Ideally, these should be sterilised first too. It is also possible to germinate these seeds between damp tissue paper in zip-lock bags. It has also been suggested to me to germinate by submerging the seeds in fresh water and changing the water frequently until germination has occurred. Regardless of which technique is used, it is important that all water is sterile.
The seeds require a minimum temperature of 22°C to germinate, so a heated propagator, or other constant source of heat is essential. If you are using perlite/vermiculite/sand, plant the seeds in pots or seed trays about 1cm below the surface, and water lightly with a watering can or spray with a pump bottle. Make sure the growing medium is moist throughout, but not wet. Leave to stand for a while so any excess water can drain through the holes in the bottom. Then place the pots or trays in the propagator in a bright area away from direct sunlight. It is important that the pots/trays receive daily ventilation to prevent mould forming. You may need to water daily, or every few days, depending on the circumstances. Mould, and 'Damping-Off' fungus can be prevented (and cured) by watering with a half or quarter strength solution of Cheshunt Compound (this can be purchased in most garden centres). If you do not have access to Cheshunt Compound, sulphur, powdered chalk, or powdered limestone will help a little.
The seeds should germinate within a week, although this may take longer in some circumstances. Once the seedlings are showing through the soil, gradually acclimatise them to drier conditions, by providing progressively more ventilation. Water sparingly but regularly. Let the growing medium become almost dry between waterings, and stay alert for the appearance of mould, as this will kill seedlings very quickly. At the other extreme, you should ensure that the conditions are not too hot, as they will quickly wilt and die. I have lost several batches of these seedlings because of hasty removal from the propagator. Because the growing medium has no organic components, you should also start feeding with fertaliser. Begin by occasionally adding fertaliser to the water at 1/4 recomended strength, then 1/2 recomended strength, etc. Once the seedlings are big enough to handle safely, or are becoming overcrowded, they can be potted up individually. Potting / Re-potting
For the first year they will grow slowly, and still require a free draining soil, such as 50% cactus compost, 50% perlite. Alternatively, ready-bagged bonsai compost would probably be suitable. In their second year re-pot in fresh compost. This time it can be very rich in organic components, but must still be fairly free draining. Something like 50% peat substitute, 25% coconut coir and 25% perlite, would probably be suitable. They should soon begin to grow more vigorously.
A 2cm layer of gravel or broken crocks (terracotta pots) in the base of the pot will provide extra drainage. Also, a 1cm layer of cactus top dressing or fish tank gravel on the surface will help to prevent the perlite from floating to the surface, cut down on excessive evaporation, prevent the soil compacting when watering from above, and it looks nice too.
Once they are established they will respond well to regular fertaliser feeds during the Summer months. Once Established
They like full, warm sun and a free draining soil. They will not tolerate being waterlogged, and they are likely to withstand only a light frost. These plants will die if subjected to sub-zero temperatures, particularly if wet. Mine seems really happy being left outdoors all Summer, but I bring it indoors through the worst of the Winter months, and I'll continue to do so untill it's over 2m tall.
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World Spirit
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: World Spirit]
#10246908 - 04/28/09 12:01 AM (14 years, 11 months ago) |
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Growing Nicotiana species
Tobacco Nicotiana tabacum - Tobacco Background
Tobacco has been used and cultivated in America for a very long time, 10,000 years by some accounts. High nicotine content varieties of Nicotiana tabacum and Nicotiana rustica were prized by many tribes. Both species are thought to be cultivars. N. rustica (Wild Tobacco) contains about 10 times the nicotine of N. tabacum, and should be considered one of the most important hallucinogenic entheogens, although both have been used ritually and shamanically by many tribes throughout the Americas.
Nicotianas are beautiful plants, growing to between one and two metres in height depending on the variety and growing conditions. They have huge green leaves and very sweet-scented flowers which range in colour from white to purple, through pink and red, for N. tabacum, or yellow (or even white or green) for N. rustica. They are straight forward to grow, and will give you no end of pleasure in the Summer months.
The Basics
Nicotianas are very forgiving plants, and although they are native to warm subtropical regions, they will thrive in cooler temperate parts of the world. If seeds are collected from your plants and re-sown, within a few years you can develop hardier varieties more suited to your local climate. They can be sown in Spring, will flower in Summer and can be harvested in early Autumn. For best results they require lots of fertalizer and lots of space for their roots, but I have grown them successfully in 20cm pots. Growing from Seed
Nicotiana seeds are produced in abundance and are very fine. They can be sown any time in spring, but will produce considerably more growth if sown early in the season. Hold off early sowing if it is unseasonally cold, as frost will kill Nicotianas. Mix the seeds with about twice their volume of sand and sprinkle the mixture on the surface of your growing medium. They can be sown in seed trays, pots, or if it is warm enough, directly into soil. Water pots or trays from below by placing the trays/pots in a sink or large container and letting the water seep upwards through the holes in the bottom by capillary action. When most of the surface is moist, remove them from the water and leave to drain. Place them inside a propagator (heated if available). They require a temperature of 21°C to germinate. They also require light, so don't try to germinate them in the airing cupboard. They should germinate within a week.
Nicotiana seedlings should be transplanted when very small, within a week after germination. If transplanting is left until later it is very easy for their tap root to become damaged, which will result in very poor and sluggish growth for the lifespan of the plant. Planting Out
Prepare the ground in advance by adding copious quantities of garden compost and, if available, well-rotten horse manure. Growing in Pots
Even though Tobacco plants like a lot of space, they can be grown successfully in pots. Use the largest size pot you can reasonably accommodate, and give them plenty of rich compost. In pots they will require regular watering during the hottest part of the Summer months, sometimes daily. As I said, I have successfully grown Nicotiana tabacum in 20cm pots, they were sown too late in the season (around May), and yet they still produced abundant growth. They reached about 80cm in height and were still flowering well into September. Where to Buy
< mod edit - no vendor links or discussion in the ethnogarden! > sell Nicotiana rustica (Sacred Tobacco) seeds and foliage.
Edited by Dr. uarewotueat (04/28/09 12:06 AM)
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World Spirit
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: World Spirit]
#10246941 - 04/28/09 12:10 AM (14 years, 11 months ago) |
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Mimosa hostilis
Soak the seeds about an hour in hot (but not boiling) water before you, to prevent mould to occur during the germination process, plant them in perlite, grit or another not-organic soil. After germination (1-6 weeks) however, the plants can be transplanted in an organic soil. Give your young plants a lot of root space, much light and water them regularly. A little artificial feeding from time to time does not hurt either.
Mimosa hostilis is a perennial evergreen shrub that can become, in its adult life, no less than 4 meters high. In the wild the plant grows a lot on the dry desert area in the Northeast of Brazil (the Caatingas). At the firm branches, provided with mean thorns, grow a lot of feather - or fernlike leaves of a beautiful, bright green color. M. hostilis fourishes abundantly with a number of fragrant white 'ears'. The pods that follow are round and fall when ripe dividing themselves in 4 up to 6 sections. A part of the roots of the Mimosa hostilis are growing above the surface, these are fibrous and fragile, and generally have a beautiful pink color.
Mimosa tenuiflora is an entheogen known as Jurema, Jurema Preta, Black Jurema, and Vinho de Jurema. Dried Mexican Mimosa tenuiflora root bark has been recently shown to have a DMT content of about 1%.[3] The stem bark has about 0.03% DMT.[20] The bark is the part of the tree traditionally used in northeastern Brazil in a psychoactive decoction also called Jurema or Yurema. Analogously, the traditional Western Amazonian sacrament Ayahuasca is brewed from indigenous ayahuasca vines. However, to date no β-carbolines such as harmala alkaloids have been detected in Mimosa tenuiflora decoctions, yet the root bark is consistently used without added MAOI.
This presents challenges to the pharmacological understanding of how DMT from the plant is rendered orally active as an entheogen. It has even been reported in the literature that beverages using Mimosa tenuiflora likely have no true psychoactive effects. In this view, if MAOI is neither present in the plant nor added to the mixture, the enzyme MAO will break apart DMT in the human gut, preventing the active molecule from entering blood and brain.
The isolation of a new compound called "Yuremamine" from Mimosa tenuiflora as reported in 2005 represents a new class of phyto-indoles,[21] which may explain an apparent oral activity of DMT in Jurema.
For outside planting, USDA Zone 9 or higher is recommended.[22]
In nature, Mimosa tenuiflora ". . .fruits and seeds are disseminated by the wind in a radius of 5–8 m from the mother plant; rain carries them from slopes to lower plains and human activities contribute to their dissemination."[23]
For cultivation, the seed pods are collected once they start to spontaneously open on the tree. The collected pods are laid out in the sun so that the pods open up and release their seeds. The seeds can then be planted in sandy soil with sun exposure.
Scarification of the seed via mechanical means or by using sulfuric acid greatly increases the germination rate of the seeds over non-treatment.[23] The seeds can be sown directly into holes in the ground or planted in prepared areas.
The seeds can germinate in temperatures ranging from 10–30 °C, but the highest germination rate occurs at around 25 °C (about 96%), even after four years of storage.[23] Germination takes about 2–4 weeks.
It is also possible to propagate Mimosa tenuiflora via cuttings.[3]
Trimming adult Mimosa tenuiflorae during the rainy season is not recommended because it can cause them to perish.[24]
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World Spirit
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: World Spirit]
#10248969 - 04/28/09 11:42 AM (14 years, 11 months ago) |
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Ayahuasca, Cielo (Yage) (Banisteriopsis caapi) seeds
Sow in spring preferrably but you can always try your own thing. Place seeds flat on sandy medium and cover with 1/4 inch of soil. Keep warm until germination. Protect from frost. Potted vines thrive in a shady greenhouse.
Germination note on this seed: Trials showed germination at 100% in 45 days at 65 degrees F. (7 seeds, 7 sprouts) There was no support for the herbal legend that the seeds should be buried head down and tail up to improve germination -- it works just as well to lay the seeds flat on their sides and cover with 1/4 inch of medium and keep slightly damp and at even temperature. Or, you can put them heads down and tail out of the medium if you wish -- that works, too.
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World Spirit
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: World Spirit]
#10249008 - 04/28/09 11:49 AM (14 years, 11 months ago) |
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Tabernanthe iboga
Light & temperature requirements Tabernanthe iboga is at home in the rainforests of West Africa. Temperatures here are always above 20 deg C and frequently above 40 deg C. In fcat, iboga stops growing at about 15 deg C and looses it's leaves at about 10 deg C. The tips start dying back if exposed to 5 deg C.
Repeated exposure to 4 deg C will cause severe dieback from which the plant may not recover. A sinlge frost or a couple of nights at 1 or 2 deg C will certainly kill most plants.
The rainforest provides a very moist and humid environment. Iboga plant will adapt to dry air, but will shed their leavs first. The new leaves will be smaller and tougher, but will withstand very dry conditions as long as the plant is watered frequently. Hardened iboga plants can be grown under HPS or other artificial lights. Being rainforest plants they prefer light at levels of less than 70%. Iboga ideally likes about 50% until it is a couple of years old and can then tolerate more. having such low minimum light requirements means that this species can easily be grown along the perimeter of artificial light rigs, where other plants will not be happy. It is also well suited as an indoor pot plant, but should be kept away from windowsills during winter.
Soil, water and nutrient requirements Rainforests produce water by causing condensation of moist air in the lower strata of the forest. This keeps the rainforest floor damp at all times. The constant flushing of condensed water means that nutrients are constantly washed away. Most rainforest plants are well adapted to efficiently capture these nutrients in the upper layers of the forest litter and soil. When cultivating plant we should try to emulate this soil by using a light mix of leafmould or composted bark shreddings. Rainforest soils have perfect drainage and this can be a problem in commercial potting mixes. To avoid waterlogging it is wise to add at least 1/3rd coarse sand to the mix. Iboga quickly gets rootbound and needs plenty of space. The efficient rootsystem is also very vigorous and needs rooms to spread. Iboga is a heavy feeder and responds quickly to fertilising. Soluble fertilisers are a waste here due to high water requirement. Composted manures are perfect.
Natural propagation and germinating seed
Iboga seed is VERY perishable. In poor storage conditions it can loose it's viability within a few weeks. If kept at optimum conditions it will last about 4 months. To store seed properly it needs to be stored in a moist environment at about 10 degC. This prevents the seedcoat from drying out. Very fresh and moist iboga seed germinates easily and without problems. As soon as the coat dries somewhat the seedling will struggle to emerge from the seedcoat and may rot. The seedling can be assisted by keeping the seedcoat very moist and soft, or by using a scalpel to carefully remove sections of seedcoat on a day by day basis. A piece of wet cotton or fabric can be used to keep the seedcoat moist by draping it over the emerging seedling. A high humidity environment (humidity dome or tropical hothouse) is essential. If using a scalpel to help the seed it is important never to injure the cotyledons that are folded into the tiny folds of the seedcoat. Accessing 1mm per day is all that is needed and prevents excessive damage. As you ease the constriction with the scalpel, the seedling will slowly push itself out a little further, thus revealing the next safe place to cut another 1mm. Trying to remove the whole seedcoat at once is almost guaranteed to fail. You should aim to remove the seedcoat within about a week of the seedling emerging from the growing medium, as any longer may weaken the seedling beyond recovery. Under normal circumstances the seedling will shed the seedcoat within 2 days and this is the minimum it should be allowed to try without interference.
To germinate the seed you will need to prepare a tray, pot or punnet with coarse sharp sand (please look up the exact preparation, as most other media and plain sand are entirely unsuitable). The punnet, pot or tray has to be perfectly free draining, which can be achieved by placing plastic shadecloth in the bottom to prevent the sand from escaping. The sand has to be at least 5cm deep. Place the seed in the coarse sharp sand about 10mm deep and water well. Never let the sand dry out, as if the seedling is about to emerge at this time it will dry up and die.
Also, if the medium dries, the seedcoat may dry and prolong germination. Keep seed at a minimum 25 deg C air temp. However, to achieve good germination the air temp should be about 30-35 deg C. Lowering the temperature will delay germination and increase likelyhood of fungal attack. Germination may occur within a few days, but may take up to several months, so be prepared to keep looking after the seeds throughout their full germination phase. Never expose seedlings to dry air until they have at least 3 sets of leaves.
This is also the best age to transplant the first time. Their first new growing medium should be mostly sand (90% coarse sand + 10% good potting mix) and should not contain ANY manure or other strong fertiliser. Osmocote is a good option here, but should be applied at minimal rate. Once the plants get to 5 pairs of leaves they are ready for strong growth and normal fertilising and should be potted into a mix as described in the section above.
Striking cuttings Iboga cuttings are fairly easy to root. Take a stem section with two nodes. Remove the leaves from the lower node and cut off 2/3rds of each remaining leaf. Now insert the lower end into a tray or pot of coarse sharp sand. Rooting hormone makes no difference in this process. Put the pot or tray in a hothouse or humidity dome and keep moist, humid and very warm. Callus forms after about 10 days and roots emerge after another few days. Pot into a sandy potting mix after 4-6 weeks or when the plant has grown by another node.
Plastic-Bottle-Hothouse A cheap and easy hothouse can be made from a softdrink bottle. This is possibly the most perfect way to establish your cuttings. The bottle used should be at least 500ml. If it is larger than 1l, then the air might be a little too dry for the cutting, but it will still work. Choose a pot with a diameter a little larger than the diameter of your bottle. Fill the pot with coarse sharp sand, and place the single node cutting at least 3 cm into the medium (note: plant shown here is NOT iboga - this method can be applied to may different plants. Growing medium shown is not sand.). Cut the bottom off the CLEAN plastic bottle and push it about 2-3 cm into the medium. The plastic cap can be used to adjust the humidity and temperature inside this min-hothouse. It is advisable to never close the vent completely, but for the first couple of weeks it is best to cover the hole partially to increase humidity. Place only one cutting per unit to avoid overcrowding. Watering can be done throught hole, or the bottle removed for maintainance. Looking after potted plants Most collectors will start their plants in pots as these can be placed into appropriate conditions without disturbing the roots. Iboga likes a lot of nutrients and will need plenty of root space. Make sure that the soil never dries out as rainforest plants have no protection from excessive transpiration. Plants can also be hardened off to survive in non-humid conditions. To do this without stressing the plant too much, remove all the leaves from the well established plant, leaving only the tiny growing tips. Now place this plant into a dry but shady spot and always water it well. As the new leaves grow they will be much harder and smaller.
Fertilise only when it is hot enough for the plant to actively grow. Composted manures are preferable to liquid fertilisers, but both will achieve results. Regular repotting into larger pots allow the addition of manure to the new potting mix.
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World Spirit
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: World Spirit]
#10253247 - 04/28/09 11:27 PM (14 years, 11 months ago) |
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Dr. uarewotueat
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: World Spirit]
#10253362 - 04/28/09 11:46 PM (14 years, 11 months ago) |
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a detailed pictorial i wrote for the germination of all cacti seeds:
Quote:
Dr. uarewotueat said: so i thought i would set up a growlog thread to follow progress of the seeds given out during the seed give away thread, for anyone who wishes to play along
here is a pictorial of my seed germination tek.
ingredients: cactus compost. coarse washed sand. gravel. diatomaceous earth (DE). fungicide. *seed trays. propagator.
1. mix the growing medium - approx. 4 parts cactus compost : 1 part gravel : 1 part sand. throw some DE in the mix at this stage too. you can play around with the mix, for example if you are starting out with normal compost/soil then double the amounts of gravel and sand. i don't nuke my soil, but you may do so if you wish.
cactus compost, as you can see it is quite sandy already and does not have much organic matter
the 3 main ingredients.
final mix.
2. mix fungicide solution - i'm using "chinsol" (83% ammonium carbonate, 15% copper sulphate) powdered fungicide, 3 tea spoons to 2 litres of water. always mix too much and store in a spray bottle for use at a later stage.
3. fill up the seed trays - about 3/4 of the way deep with the growing medium and gently firm. then sprinkle a light layer of DE over the surface, followed by a thin layer of sand. tamp down surface of medium lightly and make it level and free of holes the seeds could disappear down.
4. stand seed trays in a watering tray, fill the tray with the fungicide solution and let stand for an hour to allow the medium to soak up the solution.
5. remove seed trays from watering tray and let drain for an hour.
6. first label and then add the seeds, sow them on top of the layer of sand. at this point you can add a final very light sprinkling of dry sand, just enough to surround the seeds. do not bury them, they require light to germinate. i have found it is easier to just drop the seed on the surface and mist with fungicide and this half buries the seeds.
7. mist lightly with fungicide solution then put them in propagator. you could use anything as a means of creating humidity, platic bag, sandwich box, etc etc.
place somewhere warm and bright, above 20c is best, 25 - 30c would be better, not too much direct sunlight use a flourescent lamp if you don't have a warm and bright place to germinate the seed. a heat mat would be a good idea too if you have one. you should get germination within 2 weeks. keep the medium moist for the first few months. take the lid off the humidity chamber and give fresh air as often as you can. you can take them out of the humidity chamber after about 2 months.
i'm putting my seeds above a hot air vent in a window that doesn't quite get enough light but it will do for now and as the year progresses it will get more light
*seed trays. - you can use anything, an old take away food tray, plastic sandwich box, whatever you like. so long as it holds the growing medium and you can poke some drainage holes in the bottom, it's all good
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Dr. uarewotueat
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: Dr. uarewotueat]
#10253397 - 04/28/09 11:53 PM (14 years, 11 months ago) |
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a very good cactus grafting guide can be downloaded from the below link. it goes into a lot of detail regarding the art of grafting cacti and even propagation of stocks.
Teonanacatl's Small Book Of Grafting Cacti.
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World Spirit
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: Dr. uarewotueat]
#10253409 - 04/28/09 11:55 PM (14 years, 11 months ago) |
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I'll check it out.
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: World Spirit]
#10253726 - 04/29/09 01:13 AM (14 years, 11 months ago) |
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uPDATEd
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World Spirit
PNW
Registered: 07/27/01
Posts: 9,817
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: World Spirit]
#10287009 - 05/04/09 09:39 PM (14 years, 11 months ago) |
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attac
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World Spirit
PNW
Registered: 07/27/01
Posts: 9,817
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: World Spirit]
#10289344 - 05/05/09 10:01 AM (14 years, 11 months ago) |
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Alright. After all that we have a new thread: http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/10275243/gonew/1#UNREAD
Please submit new stuff in that thread from here out and keep rockin with your plants out.
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Toltecatl
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: World Spirit]
#15290247 - 10/28/11 10:02 AM (12 years, 5 months ago) |
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saving for reference
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karode13
Tāne Mahuta
Registered: 05/19/05
Posts: 15,290
Loc: LV-426
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: Toltecatl]
#15292023 - 10/28/11 05:36 PM (12 years, 5 months ago) |
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You know you could of just toggled favourite thread instead of bumping a 2 year old thread and adding nothing.
Please refrain from bumping old thread unless you have something constructive to add.
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Toltecatl
Psychonaut
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Posts: 641
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: karode13]
#15292049 - 10/28/11 05:44 PM (12 years, 5 months ago) |
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My bad. I thought it was good info that could be relevant to other members. I looked all over the page but couldn't figure out how to do that. How do I favorite this thread?
Edited by Toltecatl (10/28/11 05:49 PM)
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HarveyWalbanger
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: Toltecatl]
#15293408 - 10/28/11 10:58 PM (12 years, 5 months ago) |
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At the very bottom of this page, theres a bar that says "Extra information". Towards the bottom left side is a link that says "Toggle favorite".
On your user control panel, it'll be bookmarked under the bottom right menu labeled "Favorite topics"
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karode13
Tāne Mahuta
Registered: 05/19/05
Posts: 15,290
Loc: LV-426
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: HarveyWalbanger]
#15296889 - 10/29/11 07:34 PM (12 years, 5 months ago) |
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Thanks Harvey. I PM'd the user to stop the off topic stuff. I probably just should've posted here.
A pictorial for others who may be wondering:
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